Anti-Static Paint
Circuitsoft
Posts: 1,166
I bought some small plastic boxes for holding components, but realized they don't actually say anti-static on them.
So, does anyone know of a cheap way to make them anti-static? I tried looking for anti-static paint, but all I could find specifically was clearcoat, and that was $37 for one spray can. I don't care what color these are or what they look like, so I'm sure there are cheaper options. I'm just not sure what they are.
I've heard that Chrome paint is conductive, but I don't know for sure.
So, does anyone know of a cheap way to make them anti-static? I tried looking for anti-static paint, but all I could find specifically was clearcoat, and that was $37 for one spray can. I don't care what color these are or what they look like, so I'm sure there are cheaper options. I'm just not sure what they are.
I've heard that Chrome paint is conductive, but I don't know for sure.
Comments
Or don't use the static bags and not worry about it.
-Phil
Phil, Nice piccy of my Uncle Alfie.
-- Gordon
Static dissipative conduct electricity but only barely. Their high resistance lets a static charge bleed off slowly. I doubt there's any easy way to convert your plastic containers into static dissipative containers.
Here's and example of two vials. One is static dissipative and the other is just normal plastic (pollypropylene).
The static dissipative ones cost $1.16 each and the normal ones cost $0.37 each.
I used to be able to purchase the blue static dissipative vials from All-Spec. They work great with an analytical balance since static on normal plasitic containers will cause relatively severe weighing errors. I ended up having to buy 500 of the vials (from LA Container) when I needed more.
All-Spec sells other static dissipative containers (they're expensive) but the blue vials were just the right size for my needs.
I've noticed black streaks in some of the blue vials. The black material appears to be some sort of fine powder. I'm guessing it's the stuff they add to the plastic to make it static dissipative.
For some reason the TechSpray site isn't working right now.
I found this TechSpray paint at All-Tech. It's expensive, but it could be very useful if you need a static dissipative container in an unusual shape or size.
http://forums.parallax.com/entry.php?165-Of-Things-Foil...
...mid-way down, look for the slug.
I'm not sure what the dangers are of storing sensitive electronics in conductive containers are, but I've noticed all the static dissipative containers have very high resistance, so I don't think a foil lined container is necessarily safe for electronic components.
While I've seen parts drawers made of plastic that were low *generators* of static, I've never seen that alone as being enough of a safety for ESD-sensitive devices. I always see these parts stored on conductive foam or within anti-static tubes, that were then placed inside drawers.
-- Gordon
...was just offering a suggestion to the poster's original request of finding a way to "line/coat" the inside of a non-conductive box.
Yes - the only sure way to protect ESD sensitive devices during storage is to stick them into black conductive foam (or appropriate tube), put that combination into a metalized mylar bag (aka "nickle bag"), and then put that whole mess into a non-static generating bag (aka "pink bag").
Of course, only work with the ESD sensitive parts on an ESD-safe work surface.
No white styrofoam. No foam rubber. No cardboard. No regular paper. No regular cellophane tape. No bodies handling the parts w/o some form of grounding. No bodies handling the parts w/o wearing a conductive smock.
ESD-safe gloves may be required if the handler wishes to ensure no body oils contaminate the devices leads.
And, last but certainly not least...a humidity-controlled environment to keep the ESD level down in the first place.
There's a lot to do if one wants to get real serious about the subject.
Another solution is an anti static epoxy paint, such as:
http://www.stencilrolls.com/paints.htm
Though I have no idea about prices there...
Cheers,
Catweasel
Otherwise would go with expensive 3D stereolythography.