can the wrong crystal even if it is 5MHZ ruin a PROP?
codeviper
Posts: 208
ok my DEMO board was stocked with an NES port PSkeyboard port an NTSD LCD ran off of 6 NICADs or 4 NiZn AAs and had a 5MHZ crystal.
i built it to the demoboard schematics and had 100ohm resisters between the prop and the NES port. and an SD card
my first PROP died last month after light use.
well i tested everything else. and when i got my new prop i happened to get 2 new 5MHZ crystals.
i had a problem with my programs needing a 2000HZ adjustment and the examples from some hydra code never showing color right.
well i noticed the old crystals had 5.00-S the new ones 5.00-20 (as in 20pf i belive wich i did make sure they where to begin with.
with the new crystals all code works as normal.
so is it possible the old crystals were responsible for ruining my PROP?
cause i always look for a why did this happen.
honestly i dont feel like playing this game.
i did not plug AC into my board.
i did not nor cannot put the voltage in backwards.
it did not get put in an oven or freezer.
nor hit by a hammer
it did not get AC in on it.
it did not bet out in acid set on fire nor struck by the hand of god.
i followed the reference circuit and now i am told, they assumed the builder knew what he is doing. i have 2 problems with that.
1:it is an insult
2: i have seen lots of reference circuits for chips with a capacitor when the chip is noise sensitive, and i have chips that are spicificly made to NOT be noise sensitive.
I see a video of the prop being baked in a climate chamber and ruining great.under the socket for my prop i have 2 wires crossed to the connecting Vss to Vss and Vdd to Vdd so i need 1 capacitor then right?
I only picked the PROP cause i read these forums and all things i did was following the manual and Jeff ledgers book on things you can put on the proto-board.
i built it to the demoboard schematics and had 100ohm resisters between the prop and the NES port. and an SD card
my first PROP died last month after light use.
well i tested everything else. and when i got my new prop i happened to get 2 new 5MHZ crystals.
i had a problem with my programs needing a 2000HZ adjustment and the examples from some hydra code never showing color right.
well i noticed the old crystals had 5.00-S the new ones 5.00-20 (as in 20pf i belive wich i did make sure they where to begin with.
with the new crystals all code works as normal.
so is it possible the old crystals were responsible for ruining my PROP?
cause i always look for a why did this happen.
honestly i dont feel like playing this game.
i did not plug AC into my board.
i did not nor cannot put the voltage in backwards.
it did not get put in an oven or freezer.
nor hit by a hammer
it did not get AC in on it.
it did not bet out in acid set on fire nor struck by the hand of god.
i followed the reference circuit and now i am told, they assumed the builder knew what he is doing. i have 2 problems with that.
1:it is an insult
2: i have seen lots of reference circuits for chips with a capacitor when the chip is noise sensitive, and i have chips that are spicificly made to NOT be noise sensitive.
I see a video of the prop being baked in a climate chamber and ruining great.under the socket for my prop i have 2 wires crossed to the connecting Vss to Vss and Vdd to Vdd so i need 1 capacitor then right?
I only picked the PROP cause i read these forums and all things i did was following the manual and Jeff ledgers book on things you can put on the proto-board.
Comments
this is weirding me out, i got to figure out why the old PROP died and in a list i was trying to make everyone seemed to basicly be saying the PROP couldent be killed by anything i thought killed mine.
can it be i just got a bad PROP? or should i try the old prop with the new crystals?
is there a return on PROPs i dont think there would be.
cause according to my meter the voltage is good the power is clean according to my O-scope and i have added resistors to almost any IO like to the NES controller even though i was powering the NES controller off of 3.3V. so my head is throbbing over it.
every thing is right, everything has been double checked. so what killed my propeller.
:blank:
its driving me ever so slightly up a wall.
-Phil
http://www.abracon.com/Support/facn_abracon_jul2011.pdf
Shorting the pins shouldn't cause any damage.
as far as safety is concerned, i even but a full bridge rectifier on my board so i can plug in any AC adapter so long as it is between 6 to 12 volts and the jack fits
They probably assumed that designers know what they are doing.
On the Demo board, they probably assumed that their particular layout worked OK with a single capacitor. IIRC, there are copper pour areas which help with the decoupling. However, I always use one capacitor per Vdd-Vss pair.
-Phil
I am curious. Why would you want to be able to hook up a 12VAC transformer, when AC adapters are readily available?
Additionally, you used wrong terminology, as Phil and I both corrected you. An AC adapter converts alternating current to direct current, and if you are transforming a higher voltage to a lower voltage, you would be using a step down transformer, even though they may look physically identical, they are not the same.
Bruce
-Phil
I am not sure where I found the documentation, but from what I read, that is technically incorrect.
-Phil
Sorry codeviper, when going from AC to AC, it may still be called an AC adapter, but theoretically it is just a step down transformer.
"this device is noise sensitive, do not omit __ uf capaciter between Vdd Vss."
and seeing as the prop is so easy to program and setup the prop as a novice can get it going on a bread-board, perhaps it would be both convenient, and kind to novices or people like myself who assumed the schematic included all pertinent data to mention that when building your own board include ____ uf capacitors.
to me it seemed logical seeing as the propeller was described here as being super tough, and there is a video of the parallax crew baking it at temps high enough to shift the crystal requiring the Prop to be ran off an external clock (here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjkXokgcBZw)
so i assumed after reading posts here and watching the demos that it was tough rugged chip.
may i point out that a 6502 is used an medical equipment and military gear as it can survive an EMP wave that say a defibrillator makes. and there are some chips that are noise immune.
If it is sensitive to noise, cool, i will add capacitors now.
a mention of capacitors could be made on schematics for the demo-board, and also i noticed that the serial to prop circuit in the manual does not work but the one posted on its own works perfectly, I tried both circuits, and yes i tried on both a built in serial and a USB to RS232.
one question, can i get a new prop if a send this one in? test it if you want i didn't plug power in backwards or anything like that.
but i felt so lousy when it died cause I thought I had done something wrong and I have been searching and searching for the why it died.
like i have 2 9 volt adapters one has a +center and -outer the other is opposite, with the rectifier i don't have to worry which i grab.
i do use an AC to DC adapter. commonly in my area it is just called an AC adapter.
i am using the rectifier so i dont have to car about the polarity of the connector.
I think your idea of using a bridge rectifier on the power in is a good idea, particularly on the boards used for prototyping. I also use a bridge rectifier or at least a single diode wherever possible on my boards. The protection provided is well worth the cost.
As for what may have gone wrong with your prop board, I can come up with more possible causes than I have time to list. To list them would be moot in any case since it would be very difficult to determine the actual cause without a lot of test equipment. What you may want to do is to start with the simplest setup possible (prop, recommended bypass capacitors, 3.3V supply, and programming plug) to see if it is found by the Propeller Tool. If it is found you can proceed to find out what works and what doesn't. If not there is no point in worrying about it.
Rectifiers and diodes are great protection against wrong hook up if you can afford the voltage drop.
Loopy Byteloose
thanks, i know a few Brits and the ones I know personally are nice. i asked one of them about that, and it seems in Britain that behavior seems less exceptible so it seems some of them are taking it out on the internet.
i always say "you can make freinds or you can make sure everyone knows your way is right"
Leon
In my area NO one says wall wart, and will look at someone oddly if they did. they are just AC adapter, if I may mention the Super Nintendo had some units with a 9 volt AC "walwart" transformer, wallwart seems to refer to the clunky cubes hanging off the wall not what they actually do, but just the appearance.
What do I have to do?
Walk around with a great BIG sign saying I WAS WRONG
you are very helpful.
Don't worry about it, there was no offense taken I was just laughing a little at myself Besides, I don't mind being wrong, just as long as I am right 99.999999999% of the time.
Just joking... I am often WRONG
Bruce
The best one can do is to NOT rely on technical language, but try to confirm your idea is as low a level of common language as you can. The average American usage in published material is 10-grade English, not even close to a university graduate level.
Here in Taiwan, I have no idea what they call these things in Chinese or Hakka or Taiwanese, I just grab one off the shelf. When I ask for something in English - like a relay; eye glaze over.
But the REAL truth is name variations occur in distances as little as 100 miles or so. To one person, a nail puller might be a cat's paw, to another a crow's foot, and so on. So negotiate and confirm.