need a Prop Plug bulk head connector

camelot2

hi, I am working on a PROP project that requires an enclosure. What I am looking for is a bulk head connector to recieve the Prop Plug then I would hard wire the connector to the PCB. I searched the net with no luck.
Does anyone know where to buy such a connector ? thanks for helping - Dave

Ron Czapala

Are looking for something like
[h=1]Connector Unshrouded Header 36 Position 2.54mm Solder Right Angle Thru-Hole[/h]or

similar http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/catalogs/c121/P64.pdf

camelot2

what I really need is a connector which attaches to the enclosure, then on the outside I just plug in the Prop Plug and on the inside I hard wire 4 wires to the PCB. Any thoughts how this can be done ?

Ron Czapala

camelot2 wrote: »

what I really need is a connector which attaches to the enclosure, then on the outside I just plug in the Prop Plug and on the inside I hard wire 4 wires to the PCB. Any thoughts how this can be done ?

Just solder some the headers (above) to a small piece of generic PCB board and mount it in the enclosure using standoffs so that the pins are recessed in a rectangular opening.
You can insert the prop plug into the opening...

camelot2

thanks for the reply Ron, that sounds like a good idea and cheap. I will try it out - Dave

Duane Degn

When I asked just about this same question a while back, someone suggested using a female header epoxied to the inside of the enclosure and using a male header with the Prop Plug. I liked this idea myself.

I have an eclosure I've done this on. I'll take a picture and post it in a bit.

Duane Degn

I'm using two Propellers in this project so the header is 2x4. I haven't make a Prop Plug with male headers; I just use long female headers to connect the Prop Plug (homemade version) to the header in the enclosure.



I didn't use expoxy myself. I use ShapeLock (aka Polymorph) to hold the header in place.

Duane Degn

Ron Czapala wrote: »

Just solder some the headers (above) to a small piece of generic PCB board and mount it in the enclosure using standoffs so that the pins are recessed in a rectangular opening.
You can insert the prop plug into the opening...

Ron,

I don't suppose you have a picture of one of your enclosures where you did this? I'd love to see how it looks.

I was looking through your projects and your enclosures all look so nice.

Care to share any tricks of the trade?

How do you cut the holes in your enclosures?

Ron Czapala

Duane Degn wrote: »

Ron,

I don't suppose you have a picture of one of your enclosures where you did this? I'd love to see how it looks.

I was looking through your projects and your enclosures all look so nice.

Care to share any tricks of the trade?

How do you cut the holes in your enclosures?

Duane,
Generally I try to make a template using graph paper and a digital caliper.

I use a Dremel tool with abrasive cutting discs. A Dremel flexible shaft makes it much easier. I always cut small and then do a lot of tedious filing/sanding or Xacto knife shaving.

For LCD displays, I like to use the Lexan bezels sold at Scott Edwards. They are pricey but really look nice. http://www.seetron.com/mounting.html

I would love a CNC machine or even a precise miniature table saw but I have to make do with a drill press and hand tools.

Sariel

I have done this a few times in the past....

use a standard female DB9 on the outside of your project. Wire the bottom 4 pins (pins 5-9 on the connector) in order of the pins on the prop plug to the correct pins of your PCB (Vss, RES, Tx, Rx). For added protection, using a hammer to lightly tap a pin into the hole, then on the back side solder a pin into #3 of the DB-9, so it acts like a key. This eliminates the possibility of someone down the line mistaking it for an RS232 standard com port, and the possibility that the mistake will fry your mainboard.

Next, take your male DB-9, and solder a 4x1 header with 0.5 spacing. Break, cut, or mill the 3rd DB-9 pin off of this so it will accept the keyway. Then all you have to do is plug your PropPlug into the 4 pin header. With some tricky carving, it is even possible to get the prop plug to fit into a standard 2 piece backshell for it, with the USB port sticking out where the wire hole is. then you have a nifty little adapter that will allow you to (re)program your firmware later down the road. Making this a standard connection for your projects means you can re-use the prop plug.

And, it keeps your project looking professional, instead of having a rough hole cut in your case with a header poking out.

Duane Degn

Ron Czapala wrote: »

I always cut small and then do a lot of tedious filing/sanding or Xacto knife shaving.

I was afraid that was going to be your secret.

Thanks.

Cluso99

The trick with the male pin header for the transition between the two female connectors is to put the header on a piece of hard timber and then lightly press the plastic holding piece down until the pins are equal in length on both sides of the plastic spacer. Works a treat.

Tubular

Here are a couple of similar threads

http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?130611-Looking-for-Panel-Mount-Prop-Plug-Connection-Ideas

http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?109517-Suggestions-needed-for-interfacing-a-Prop-Plug-to-a-metal-enclosure

Tracy Allen

Here are a couple of photos, with the header pins on a circuit board inside the ABS box. The opening is machined with the box held on a cross-slide in drill press (not NC, old fashioned) , with a 1/8" router bit. The photo on the right is a similar setup for an SD card slot.