Multi-Axis Propeller Proto Board CNC Controller / Power Supply
idbruce
Posts: 6,197
Hello Everyone
*** PLEASE NOTE ***
The following discription and design has certain limitations, which are:
Parallax, Inc.
http://www.parallax.com/
Geckodrive, Inc.
http://www.geckodrive.com/
Antek, Inc.
http://www.antekinc.com/
To make our Multi-Axis Propeller Proto Board CNC Controller / Power Supply, our main components will be the Parallax Propeller Proto Board, three, four, or five G251X 10 Microstep Digital Drives (stepper drivers), and an Antek 48VDC 800W power supply. The necessary documentation can be obtained from the following links:
Parallax Propeller Proto Board
General Information:
http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerDevelopmentBoards/tabid/514/CategoryID/73/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/423/Default.aspx
Propeller Proto Board Manual:
http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/docs/prod/prop/32212-32812-PropellerProtoBoard-v1.3.pdf
G251X 10 Microstep Digital Drives
General Information:
http://www.geckodrive.com/g251x-p-38.html
G251X Manual:
http://www.geckodrive.com/images/fck_uploads/G251 REV-9 MANUAL FORMATTED.pdf
Antek 48VDC 800W Power Supply:
General Information:
http://www.antekinc.com/details.php?p=417
Datasheet:
http://www.antekinc.com/pdf/PS-8N48R.pdf
Generally The Main Parts Required:
1 - Parallax Propeller Proto Board
3, 4, or 5 - Geckodrive G251X 10 Microstep Digital Drives
1 - Antek 48VDC 800W Power Supply with 5V and 12V regulators (5V regulator is not required)
1 - Antek 8V/1A regulator (*SPECIAL ORDER - They might substitute this for the 5V regulator when place your order)
1 - NEMA Type 1 enclosure (16" X 16" X 6")
4 - rubber feet for the enclosure
4 - 80mm X 80mm 12V PC cooling fans (each fan must use less than 0.25A)
4 - 80mm X 80mm fan guards
6' - 12/3 Type SO cord
1 - Cord connector for SO cord
1 - 125V/15A Cord end for SO cord
1 - Plug end from a junk AC adapter
Grommets
4" Cable ties
Numerous - Male/Female standoffs 3/4" length
Generally The Main Steps Required:
1. Plan and integrate numerous connectors into your electrical design for easy disassembly
2. Wire up the Proto Board with all the necessary circuitry and headers
3. Layout the drill holes on the enclosure for mounting the rubber feet, power supply, Proto Board, fans, SO cord connector, stepper motor cables, switches, LEDs, etc...
4. Drill all the necessary holes in the enclosure. When drilling holes to run cables from the inside of the enclosure to the outside, drill the holes large enough to accommodate a rubber grommet for your cables to prevent scraping, scuffing, and cuts.
5. If you want a different color, paint the enclosure.
6. Mount the rubber feet to the enclosure.
7. Depending on the power supply and your order, you may need to substitute 5V regulator with the 8V regulator, either way, ensure there is a 8V regulator mounted to the power supply.
8. Generally it is easier to add leads to the power supply before mounting it in the enclosure, so do this now, but instead of adding leads to the 8V regulator, add the plug end from a junk AC adapter (please ensure proper polarity). Please note that the leads from the 12V regulator must be long enough to reach one of the fans.
9. Mount the power supply to the bottom of the enclosure using nuts, bolts, and lockwashers.
10. Add the 125V/15A cord end and the cord connector to the SO cord.
11. Secure the SO cord connector to the enclosure, and ground the SO cord to the enclosure.
12. Mount and secure the cooling fans on the inside of the enclosure with the fan guards on the outside. Please ensure that there are two fans on opposing sides of the enclosure with one pair pushing air and the other pair pulling air. Also ensure that fans are situated to allow the best unrestricted air movement.
13. Wire up the cooling fans to the 12V leads.
14. Insert four standoffs in the bottom of the enclosure for mounting the Proto Board.
15. Insert two standoffs into the VGA mounting holes of the Proto Board and secure.
16. Wire up the G251X drives with necessary leads and connectors.
17. Add a G251X driver atop the two previously placed standoffs and secure with another two standoffs.
18. Repeat the last step until all G251X drives have been mounted.
19. Secure the Proto Board to the bottom of the enclosure atop the four previously placed standoffs with the proper screws.
20. Plug the 8V AC adapter end into the Proto Board.
21. Complete all other necessary wiring and hardware mounting. Please note that when running cables from the inside of the enclosure to the outside through the previously mentioned grommets, add cable ties to both sides of the grommet to prevent cable slippage.
22. You may also want to consider fabricating some wire looms for the main power wires going to the G251X drives just to give them a little more support and a little less strain.
The Software For Driving The Motors:
To avoid rewriting all the necessary information, here is another article that I wrote, which contains all the necessary software and documentation to get your motors spinning at more that 15 revs per second. Please read and study all the information on this thread pertaining to the use of the software.
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?132373-PulseTheStepPin-revisted-Questions-answers-problems-solutions
I hope you find this article useful. ENJOY!!!
Bruce
EDIT: As an additional note, there should be plenty of room within the enclosure for a second Proto Board, just in case you want a seperate board for your user interface or you run out of pins and cogs. There are plenty of communication objects within the object exchange for communication purposes between two Propeller chips.
*** PLEASE NOTE ***
The following discription and design has certain limitations, which are:
- Max current for each motor 3.5A
- Total current available 16.7A
- If building a 5 axis system, limit the current to 3.3A
- The G251 needs heatsinking for current settings greater than 3 amps, in which case a taller enclosure will be required than the one suggested below
- The power supplied to the Propeller Proto Board will be 8V/1A
Parallax, Inc.
http://www.parallax.com/
Geckodrive, Inc.
http://www.geckodrive.com/
Antek, Inc.
http://www.antekinc.com/
To make our Multi-Axis Propeller Proto Board CNC Controller / Power Supply, our main components will be the Parallax Propeller Proto Board, three, four, or five G251X 10 Microstep Digital Drives (stepper drivers), and an Antek 48VDC 800W power supply. The necessary documentation can be obtained from the following links:
Parallax Propeller Proto Board
General Information:
http://www.parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerDevelopmentBoards/tabid/514/CategoryID/73/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/423/Default.aspx
Propeller Proto Board Manual:
http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/docs/prod/prop/32212-32812-PropellerProtoBoard-v1.3.pdf
G251X 10 Microstep Digital Drives
General Information:
http://www.geckodrive.com/g251x-p-38.html
G251X Manual:
http://www.geckodrive.com/images/fck_uploads/G251 REV-9 MANUAL FORMATTED.pdf
Antek 48VDC 800W Power Supply:
General Information:
http://www.antekinc.com/details.php?p=417
Datasheet:
http://www.antekinc.com/pdf/PS-8N48R.pdf
Generally The Main Parts Required:
1 - Parallax Propeller Proto Board
3, 4, or 5 - Geckodrive G251X 10 Microstep Digital Drives
1 - Antek 48VDC 800W Power Supply with 5V and 12V regulators (5V regulator is not required)
1 - Antek 8V/1A regulator (*SPECIAL ORDER - They might substitute this for the 5V regulator when place your order)
1 - NEMA Type 1 enclosure (16" X 16" X 6")
4 - rubber feet for the enclosure
4 - 80mm X 80mm 12V PC cooling fans (each fan must use less than 0.25A)
4 - 80mm X 80mm fan guards
6' - 12/3 Type SO cord
1 - Cord connector for SO cord
1 - 125V/15A Cord end for SO cord
1 - Plug end from a junk AC adapter
Grommets
4" Cable ties
Numerous - Male/Female standoffs 3/4" length
Generally The Main Steps Required:
1. Plan and integrate numerous connectors into your electrical design for easy disassembly
2. Wire up the Proto Board with all the necessary circuitry and headers
3. Layout the drill holes on the enclosure for mounting the rubber feet, power supply, Proto Board, fans, SO cord connector, stepper motor cables, switches, LEDs, etc...
4. Drill all the necessary holes in the enclosure. When drilling holes to run cables from the inside of the enclosure to the outside, drill the holes large enough to accommodate a rubber grommet for your cables to prevent scraping, scuffing, and cuts.
5. If you want a different color, paint the enclosure.
6. Mount the rubber feet to the enclosure.
7. Depending on the power supply and your order, you may need to substitute 5V regulator with the 8V regulator, either way, ensure there is a 8V regulator mounted to the power supply.
8. Generally it is easier to add leads to the power supply before mounting it in the enclosure, so do this now, but instead of adding leads to the 8V regulator, add the plug end from a junk AC adapter (please ensure proper polarity). Please note that the leads from the 12V regulator must be long enough to reach one of the fans.
9. Mount the power supply to the bottom of the enclosure using nuts, bolts, and lockwashers.
10. Add the 125V/15A cord end and the cord connector to the SO cord.
11. Secure the SO cord connector to the enclosure, and ground the SO cord to the enclosure.
12. Mount and secure the cooling fans on the inside of the enclosure with the fan guards on the outside. Please ensure that there are two fans on opposing sides of the enclosure with one pair pushing air and the other pair pulling air. Also ensure that fans are situated to allow the best unrestricted air movement.
13. Wire up the cooling fans to the 12V leads.
14. Insert four standoffs in the bottom of the enclosure for mounting the Proto Board.
15. Insert two standoffs into the VGA mounting holes of the Proto Board and secure.
16. Wire up the G251X drives with necessary leads and connectors.
17. Add a G251X driver atop the two previously placed standoffs and secure with another two standoffs.
18. Repeat the last step until all G251X drives have been mounted.
19. Secure the Proto Board to the bottom of the enclosure atop the four previously placed standoffs with the proper screws.
20. Plug the 8V AC adapter end into the Proto Board.
21. Complete all other necessary wiring and hardware mounting. Please note that when running cables from the inside of the enclosure to the outside through the previously mentioned grommets, add cable ties to both sides of the grommet to prevent cable slippage.
22. You may also want to consider fabricating some wire looms for the main power wires going to the G251X drives just to give them a little more support and a little less strain.
The Software For Driving The Motors:
To avoid rewriting all the necessary information, here is another article that I wrote, which contains all the necessary software and documentation to get your motors spinning at more that 15 revs per second. Please read and study all the information on this thread pertaining to the use of the software.
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?132373-PulseTheStepPin-revisted-Questions-answers-problems-solutions
I hope you find this article useful. ENJOY!!!
Bruce
EDIT: As an additional note, there should be plenty of room within the enclosure for a second Proto Board, just in case you want a seperate board for your user interface or you run out of pins and cogs. There are plenty of communication objects within the object exchange for communication purposes between two Propeller chips.
Comments
Paul
Looks like the total tab on the electronics portion of a 5 axis stepper CNC unit to be about $600.
It's not exactly pocket change but then the ease of integration, speed, power and simplicity of programming with the multi-core Prop are fantastic.
Gecko also offers some great low cost motors as does Oriental (www.orientalmotor.com).
I'd love to see some low cost options on axes configurations (e.g. belt , screw, rack, etc).
Great job Bruce.
It is not a cheap setup by any means, but it is a nice plan. I have a very similar setup on my wire bending CNC. As for the low cost drive configurations, well that is a completely different topic. It all costs money, with different levels of difficulty, accuracy, reliability, and functionality. I am not expert on drive configurations, but in my opinion belts are a very nice option if you need speed and accuracy, but loads are susceptible to shifting, whereas the lead screws offer accuracy and rigidity to prevent load shifting. As for racks, they cost a lot of money, very hard to find an appropriate gear, and I have not had good experience with racks. I personally prefer the lead screws and have been devising low cost solutions for lead screw drive mechanisms for my machinery, but alas they are currently trade secrets until I go to market with my equipment. The best advice that I can give is to put on your thinking cap and do a lot of research pertaining to backlash, tolerances, and linear travel. There are definitely ways to make reliable inexpensive drives, but you have to stretch the old imagination.
Thanks for your comments.
Bruce
I keep my eyes open for used/surplus mechanical units that can be re-purposed and fit roughly a 2'x2' x1' envelope.
On the software side of things, what sort of scheme do you see for TCP trajectory planning between a point file and the motion program on the Propellor?
It seems that 1 cog dedicated per axis for drive control and 1 cog planning the coordinated speed and destination for each cog, the job could be fairly straight forward. I think that any path file would have to be generated from some sort of PC based solids modeler.
One of my first applications is for a PCB resist exposure (focused UV lamp beam) and drill router machine. I'd like to be able to rapidly prototype low cost boards. However, I am a ways away from getting all of the pieces together. I would definitely like to take your approach for the drive control system.
Please keep us posted on your system software development!
SM
I am not sure what you are asking.
This approach sounds very wrong to me if you plan to use my software. Take an Eagle DRD file for example, it contains all the coordinates, tool changes, etc... for PCB drilling. I would use 1 cog for parsing the file, and then assign a new cog for each movement of an axis and when the movement is complete then end the cog.
The software that I linked to on this page is already complete, I currently use this software on several stepper driven machines. PuleTheStepPin is a very versatile function that gives you several different parameters to finely tune the speed and movement of the stepper.
As you go through a DRD file, just run this function in a new cog with the proper parameters. At close to top speed, using 1/4-20 lead screws, this function can move an axis a little faster than 1.25 inches per second.
Bruce
Yeah, now put that to work on some nice ballscrews at 5 turns per inch and that would really fly.
@photomankc
At the moment, I can only dream of such things
If you really want to see things fly, run this software through a timing belt drive. I currently have one timing belt drive running this software and I had to slow it down immensely. It was throwing my product across the room (Okay I exaggerated a little, off the table + three feet)
Please keep in mind that the stated stats are for a minimun load with very little drag.