S2 on Sale for under $90
Great price on the S2 (without adapter and USB cable)... Get one and be impressed!
http://www.parallax.com/Store/Robots/AllRobots/tabid/755/ProductID/712/List/0/Default.aspx?SortField=ProductName,ProductName
http://www.parallax.com/Store/Robots/AllRobots/tabid/755/ProductID/712/List/0/Default.aspx?SortField=ProductName,ProductName
Comments
-Phil
Happy Thanksgiving!
I'll need to go back and read Whit's article again.
Thanks for the heads up about this.
I keep meaning to try to understand the motor control code Phil wrote for it. I figure it will be easier to understand his software, if I have identical hardware.
Your nicely curved beanie hat was very impressive. It's obvious the Scribbler has very good motor control algorithms.
I've been toying with my own motor control software using encoders and my robots don't have nearly the control the Scribbler appears to have. It's time for me to learn how to do this stuff correctly.
Don't buy all of these because our next batch doesn't arrive until August 2012, and we'll be out for quite a while before that shipment arrives.
Ken Gracey
Shoot. There are only 1779 units in stock. I was gonna buy them all, but per Ken's request, I'll hold off for now.
Look how much effort just goes into suggesting product names! I bet some really good stuff will happen in the name of free Quadrovers.
Just use it as a syring transporter. I'm going to use mine to transport test tubes in my lab.
If Jessica can send paper messages with an S2, it can certainly transport some syringes or test tubes!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RFa1qFgxv8
@erco, I just finished watching that video. Pretty cool.
This AIBO on steroids could take a hundred S2's for a drag... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4u7aIIUDSQk
Don't get your finger pinched in a leg joint.
It's a nice looking little robot.
Thanks for asking. Yes, I'm playing.
I've been looking for your articles. I couldn't find them on Parallax's website so I'll look through my Servo magazines (they were in Servo right?).
Edit: It's in Sept/Oct 2011 Robot magazine
I'm better at selecting the demos now that I've learned to use enough light for the sensors.
It doesn't seem fair to have a robot that can already avoid objects and detect when it's stuck without any building or programming. Not fair, but it is fun.
I still don't really own it yet. I haven't voided the warranty. I don't feel like I own something until I've voided the warranty.
I should get around to opening it up (voiding the warranty) soon.
I also received an "Inventor's Wand". I was very pleased to see how precise the ruler is.
Edit: Move "Three Laws" comment to Inventor's Wand thread.
Here's the direct link to the article. (I don't know if you have to have a Robot subscription to read the article online or not.)
I've got to figure out a good Cub Scout demo for the S2 so I can show it off at a Pack Activity or a Pack Meeting. (I'm a new Cubmaster.)
I could have the Cub Scouts lay a line with electical tape for the S2 to follow. I'll need to think about this.
@Whit, Thanks for pointing me to the sale. I felt bad when I missed the $99 introductory price. I'm glad I didn't miss this chance to get a S2 for $89.
For success in line-following, I would recommend against using electrical tape, since it's so shiny. Parallax sells a 1/2"-wide black masking tape that's optimal for line following, here:
It also has the advantage of not leaving a residue when pulled up.
If Parallax is sold out, you can get the same tape from McMaster Carr (#76265A1).
-Phil
Phil is right about the tape.
For some fun projects, check out Jessica's videos on the S2 resource page.
See http://forums.parallax.com/entry.php?211-S2-Robot-Messenger-Bots
@Whit, Yes, I saw Jessica's fun video.
I just reread this old thread. It's much more interesting to me now.
I need to figure out how to use the hacker port correctly. I'm guessing the level shifter needs to be turned on or something. I'm trying to add a Nordic transceiver, which has 5V tolerant IO, without any luck yet. The 3.3V is conveniently located at test point 21 (gound is test point 11 or one of the many hacker port ground pins).
It sure looks like there's a lot going on on those circuit boards.
Off to look at the S2 object for hacker port clues (feel free to drop some clues here).
Has anyone come up with a good way of getting 3.3V signal lines out from the S2's Prop?
I changed the clock mode to " _clkmode = xtal1 + pll1x", and I was able to communicate with the Nordic module. The only other multiplier I've tried so far is 16 (which didn't work). I'm betting I can run the Prop faster than 5MHz; I'll just need to experiment a bit.
Edit: I'll likely just slow the Nordic driver down a bit. I plan to use the S2 at 80MHz.
I really wish Parallax hadn't used the level shifter. Even if I bypass the level shifter by soldering wires directly to the Prop, the level shifter still messes up fast SPI communication.
I can understand why the level shifter was used. I figure it was to keep the S2 backwards compatible and to make sure the S2 could drive hobby servos (I have a few that don't like a 3.3V signal).
I'm pretty sure I don't need the level shifter for any of my sensors or other items I might want to attach to the S2. I'm planning on removing the level shifter along with the resistors and capacitors that go with it. Can anyone give me a reason not to do so?
I'll wait until tomorrow to preform the surgery. If anyone knows of a reason this isn't a good idea, please let me know.
I'll likely replace the chip with just some wires. I can add a series resistor when I need to communicate with a 5V device.
I could only use the Nordic modules (with my original driver) with the Prop running at 10MHz or slower. I did get the modules to work at 80MHz by adding some NOPs to the SPI driver.
I eventually want to make a boot loader with these Nordic modules so I can program the Prop wirelessly (like Phil has done with the XBees). I'm pretty sure I'll want all the speed these modules will give me when it comes time to program the Prop wirelessly. Another reason to want the increased wireless speed is to transmit audio (I haven't done this yet but another forum member has).
So surgery in the morning unless there's a good reason to leave the level shifter in place.
Before you go hacking into the hacker port, take a look at the datasheet for the level translator:
There you will see that the pullups on the output can be made much stiffer than the ones provided in the S2. Adding an external 1K pullup will change the normal TC (4.7K * 1nF = 4.7 µs) to 825 ns. If you're driving a cable, be sure to put the paralleled pullup at the other end for maximum noise immunity.
-Phil
Phil,
Thank you for the datasheet. I've been reading it a bit.
I've decide to leave the level shifter for now. I'd like any hacks I make to be easy for others to reproduce. I don't want others to remove their level shifters just to try out the things I do.
The nRF24L01+ modules I'm using now cost less than $3 each shipped. I attached one to the inside of the S2 with some double sided foam tape. My plan is to use two of these modules and a QuickStart board to make a little remote control for the S2. (I also have another remote in the works.)
I'll post code one I get it working correctly. Hopefully it wont be hard for others to duplicate the remote.
I've decided not to worry about the speed issue with the S2 hacker port. I'll just slow the driver down enough so it will work with the S2. I'll leave streaming audio and other high speed transmissions for my other robots.
Again, thank you for the information Phil. The stuff you told me about additional pull-up resistors is just at the edge of my understanding (or at edge of my not understanding). I figure there's a good reason to add the 1nF capacitors to the buffer lines. My guess is it was to reduce noise problems. But I suspect those capacitors slow down the transmission speed over those data lines.
I assume the 4.7us has something to do with the slew rate. 4.7us seems high to me. The driver I slowed down only sets the clock high for 100ns. Although now I don't remember if I tested the slow driver on the 5V side of the buffer or the 3.3V side. (I think it was the 5V side.)
Don't feel obligated to teach me this stuff (though I'm all ears). I think I know enough to get these modules to work with the S2.