I-Crib Total Home Control and Automation
graffix
Posts: 389
I was looking to try as a group to describe what the TOTAL PACKAGE would do.
Make catagories and abilities kind of like.
Security-ability to monitor status of all doors and windows
Lighting-on,off,dimmible
Smart fridge-knows what you have,what you could make,orders what ever when out(shipped to temp controlled mailbox).
There is much to do and control.Post your ideas here for the Total Package.Try not to get to crazy some things you should still do.
Make catagories and abilities kind of like.
Security-ability to monitor status of all doors and windows
Lighting-on,off,dimmible
Smart fridge-knows what you have,what you could make,orders what ever when out(shipped to temp controlled mailbox).
There is much to do and control.Post your ideas here for the Total Package.Try not to get to crazy some things you should still do.
Comments
Home automation systems have three elements: sensors, actuators, and control logic. I would like to see Parallax leverage its unique wisdom to do all the things I really wish X10 had.
1. Everything should communicate over power, like X10, but using a less brain-dead protocol. Sure it was nice that X10 burglar alarm sensors didn't need extension cords, but they did need batteries, which got to be a pain, and they never worked very reliably.
2. For protocol simplicity and to avoid data collisions and complicated recovery protocols, I would have all comms initiated by the control logic, even from sensors. Sensors which need to detect events shorter than the polling interval could return a short history. Few things in home automation require true millisecond response.
3. All comms initiated by the controller get a reply, even if it's an actuator saying "got it, boss." If after a fairly short timeout the controller doesn't get a reply, it knows to try again.
Not a lot of modules are needed. I would start with just a few:
1. Relay switched outlet, whose logic can be powered by the outlet it's switching.
2. Relay switched wall switch NOT dimmable, so it can control cheap CFL's, but a bit more tricky because it must be powered in series with the thing it's controlling. Could be a board that goes behind a normal light switch combining the function of reporting the switch position to the controller with digitally controlling the light, so the switch can be overridden. Should revert to manual control if it doesn't hear from the controller for say 5 seconds.
3. After #2, a dimmable switch module. CFL's. But yeah, sometimes you want mood lighting.
4. A module which can be plugged into an outlet and sense and report the state of up to say 8 switches or digital inputs.
5. A temperature sensor. Possibly moddable for generic analog sensor input.
6. A user programmable controller, probably in the form of a C3, protoboard, or Prop Platform shield. Controllers should have the hardware to act as both masters and slaves, to implement other types of sensor and actuator. For example, a keypad/display interface would be useful, but it's not necessary to make a dedicated product; a Prop based controller could read a keyboard, drive a display, and implement comms to the real controller operating as a slave.
The key to making this different from X10 and its extensions/imitators is that all controllers are fully programmable, and while there is default functionality for those who don't want to write a program up-front it's open source and available to download, tweak, extend, and study.
At one time I had a full X10 system controlling most of the lights in my house, several outlets, and a full burglar alarm. I've gradually disassembled it as I moved to light bulbs that don't like the X10 switches, which are all dimmable and incompatible with CFL's, the burglar alarm was prone to false triggers that couldn't be corrected, and all comms were spotty with occasional failures. Offer me a system like I just described, and I will once again replace every light switch in my house.
The main elements of my vision are that sensors and actuators are simple, robust, and comms can be verified, and that controllers are open and reprogrammable. There are a number of ways to manage that. Any of them would be a vast improvement over what's available.
I would also suggest you to look at my project report for the Spinneret contest that I did for the Ship Monitoring and Control System, which is a basic monitoring system that I designed.
My system is based on and similar to building automation systems that I work with at my work. The only thing that my system doesn't do right now is temperature. But, it can networked into the system via RS-485.
Also, take a look at my schematics that I did for my Spinneret contest which would give you a idea how it is interfaced with the propeller and the outside world.
@erco This is also a good do-able idea, some sort of facial recognition or voice activated type program for exterior doors with a keypad maybe.RFID possible, I saw a system that used a watch awhile ago.Interior doors would be less secure, occupancy locked ability with an overide feature.Perhaps standing in front of the Inside door for a second or two and then open using a PIR maybe.Self opening windows thats new to me,Nice.
As Roger has pointed out almost instant, uniterupted communication will be critcal about every where.Also web interfaced design.On top of that secure design.
@Bsnut I saw your project briefly excellent job BTW, Ive seen some talk on systems using RS-485 protocalls and xbees I think.Without digging in the mechanics of the system (Total Package) what should it do?With all this being said I dont want multiple systems with multiple monthly fee's from different suppiers using stuff that has limited ability or potential. Like Roger said he has gone with X10 system before and would trade it for a better one.Time Warner is getting into also and they bring my internet,cable,and phone.Only thing is Ive had the same cable box for like 12yrs Ive paid off two cars in that time for about the same monthly fee.The Total Package should be every thing (most of which I left out to encourage participation)a fill in the big brain type thread.Granted major manufactures of windows,doors,and appliances will need a base protocall to connect with each other the system and power grid.
We've described some top notch windows and doors at least here.Nothing like whats available currently.The only way to beat or out sell the Total Package would be to One up it,that would be a challenge.How many times have you bought something like a Ipad only a year later have to buy another because they left out a camera or HDMI slot.A car, sure you can have AWD but you lose the sunroof and navigation.These tactics suck.We do it to ourselves based on what we do purchase and pay for.Big business want monthly fees and contracts only to raise the price after your hooked or locked in.
Radio Shack was handling the Z-Wave systems for a while for home automation. Each remote had a repeater in it so there should be no "blind spots" in the house. Problem was if you wanted to control it by cell phone, it cost $15 a month! I checked into the protocol but $1500 pay to play and non disclosure agreements abounded. Sounded perfect for Spinnernet and the Prop could have brought all sorts of add ons to the party. They even had USB transceivers that you could use to interface,test the RF elements.
Jim
Other considerations are about its robustness and its ability of share a network with a lot traffic that has different purposes. CANbus can have multiple masters and slaves sharing wire through its addressing system. It can also use a variety of microconltrollers - Propellers, BasicStamps, PICs, AVRs, and so on. And, CANbus can reacher further (easily up to a mile or so) to monitor outlying buildings or gates and lights out on a large property. It also can be made very difficult to hack into even if one has access to the cable. I have doubts about X10 doing any of these things, but there were some second generation devices that improved on X10 that may be of interest. From what I understand, X10 is always blocked at a distribution transformer and can go no further. And in some cases, X10 might be hacked from a neighboring house that is on the same side of a distribution transformer.
I do like the idea that a low-voltage network means that you can pull something like telephone wire(4 wires/2 twisted pair) or internet LAN cable (which is 8 wires/4 twisted pairs) and have extra wires used to provide power throughout the network. Backup batteries can be placed as critical locations and even solar recharging is possible. You can even have a bridge to LAN (I have a TINI DS80C411 board that does so - included CANbus, IButtons, and LAN with the ability for JAVA to create webpages) and that would provide a destination for keeping info such as an inventory of what's in the refrigerator available.
An often missed fact is that the Propeller can be used with a bar code scan. So having that as a means to inventory groceries is quite an interesting possibility.
Don't forget including hot tub and swimming pool control in your network. And of course, any decorative fountains might be included as well.
(Pulling a pair or even three thin wires in the same plastic conduits shouldn't be a very large problem. They can also be hidden behind fairings and such)
Take a look at the DalSemi 1-Wire protocol, which only uses GND and Signal.
When the controller wants a status, it drops the signal to 0 for a predetermined length of time. Any units that has anything to report will then hold the signal line low for a moment after the controller releases it back to 5V.
Timing this period tells the controller if there's any units requesting a checkup.
(Then there's a messy bit of searching out and communicating with the unit(s) needing it)
Alarms should of course poll everything from time to time, and the communication needs to be encrypted with a random-seeming control 'question' so that a fake unit can't respond instead of a disabled unit.
With more than one 'control' in the system, you need to have priorities and user premissions.
(Kids having one each, but can't switch the PS3 on if the parents have locked it off.... )
Scheduled programs...
This is the more difficult part to get right.
This really needs a 'random' function that can be used to run scripts.
Imagine that one a day you're away, that in the evening TV goes on before the news, stays on for a while, maybe the volume changes when a movie starts? (you must input the movie into the system, of course), then a minute or three(random) after the movie ends, the TV is switched off. Soon after, the ligths in the livingroom goes out, the lights in the bedroom, and moments later, the bathroom goes on. Water runs... Bahroom lights goes out. Roof lamp in bedroom goes out, but a small light stays on for a while(random, with parameters).
Maybe, in the middle of the night(random occurence, at semi-random time) the nightlamp goes on, bathroom lights, minutes later a flush, water running, lights out in bathroom, nightlight following soon after.
Beats the 'random' function on digital timers people use to simulate that someone is home...
Control lights and provide user definable remote switches first, so you can turn on the hot tub and lawn lights from the bedroom. Then make it programmable so you can have it happen automatically or stop your neighbor's kid from messing with it if he finds out you have a system. Then start adding geegaws like burglar alarms and environmental controls and so on. Basics first, in a way that is cheap, simple, and flexible. Then, if it catches on, you start adding the prebuilt alarm controllers and thermostats.
Regarding the light switch, I feel that the best alternative is what is often used in industrial setting (where there are many more lights which are included on one wall switch). Since the lighting is far more than the 15amps that a light switch can handle, it uses a low voltage latching relay in a central box with a mating low voltage wall switch.
As you can see, that pretty much requires the whole home's lighting to be rewired to have low-voltage switches in the wall and the fuse box have a unit next to it full of latching relays. Of course, if you are building a new custom home, you can elect this from the start and make lighting control much easier. But the really nice thing about this kind of a system is you can get at all the lighting switches in parallel control at one central box with a control voltage that is more suited for microcontroller integration.
X10 may be more handy if they perfect a good light switch that reliably responds to X10 commands and easily fits into the existing light switch box.
About the only other option I could consider is to have an IR transmiter in each room and linked to the network and have IR sensors attached to some sort of relay at each and every light switch. Those light switch electrical boxes are going to get awfully crowded with an IR sensor, a relay of some sort, a power supply, a microcontroller, and a conventional switch.
In sum, automated lighting is best done through planning with a builder before the house is built.
If X10 is going to become widely used, I suspect you want to install an isolation transformer where the service comes into the home.
Nobody is touting fiber optic networking , which would be great for remodle as there is no fire hazard.
http://www.lsgc.com/dmdocuments/DEFINITY_Brochure_08_26_11.pdf
I am going cover X10 first and move on to other of everyone's points.
The way around the X10 problems is to use a isolation transformer, this prevents someone else's House code from interfering with yours. But, the best place for the isolation is to be located just before your main breaker. This means you will need to add in another main disconnecting means to meet the National Electrical Code and needs to be sized for your home. It also saves you from adding another panel. This can be expensive for everyday home owner. You can also add a subpanel with a isolation transformer between your main panel and remove circuits that are not needed to be on the X10 network to this subpanel. But you still need to size it for this subpanel.
Now let me move on to other types of networks that I like.
Canbus is a very reliable network with little or no problems and is used in cars because of the multiple masters and slaves that can be on the network. But, you will need to pull wire to each of the controllers. Unlike X10 which uses the wires you are plugging your lights in. You can also setup subpanel without the isolation transformer as I described above.
Buildings that I maintain for Uncle Sam use multiple types networks for building automation like BACnet, Ethernet, and Fiber. Although are systems are setup for HVAC. But, they can be setup to do other things like you want to do. BACnet is also a cross between RS-485 and Canbus and is designed to be use in buildings and is very reliable.
Somebody stated that it's in the planning and that is correct. This planning begins when the walls are opened up. Because a typical system requires the wire to be pulled from the control device (controller) to the end device (lights, fans, etc). This includes both the low and high voltage wiring. If want you can install a system, by fishing wires in the walls. But, this way is a pain in a butt.
Remember, whatever network protocols you pick. You can setup your system with its own security and control features within the protocol you pick to prevent problems you are talking about.
I think one of the key functionalities is detecting human presence - this allows energy saving with heating and lighting, burglar detection, automatic door/window security. Its not easy though.
Another useful feature in my book is tracking utility usage (electricity obviously, but gas, water etc too) - a dashboard interface can then let you simply see where the money is going.
I think RFID is a good technology to add to housekeys - the system knows you haven't picked to lock, can anticipate you next action depending on who and what time of day (TV on in the evening!).
Monitoring exterior and interior temperatures and house occupancy allows Just-in-Time heating control (and if coupled to smoke detectors, an alarm and SMS-sending could act as a personal fire-alarm system).
Finally automatic curtain/blind operation would be great
One thing to watch out for is "function creep". That means don't try to eat the elephant in one bite.
Once the lists of "wants" is big enough, select the most basic, universal items, and concentrate on those. IE communication over power, switching power, and the associated interfaces. Start with the first one, and move on to the next when complete.
Start with the High Level Request; define the systems needed to do this, define the functions the system must perform, and define the code needed to perform those functions. Decide the set of tests that prove the function is present and operates correctly. Do this for each high level request, and do not assume the code can be written before the preceding steps are complete. Code CAN be written for experiments while forming and deciding the preceding steps; this is required; but it cannot be assumed to be the final code. Do this for each high level request in turn.
The caution is against trying to address every ancillary function (wireless, battery issues) before the basic issues (switching, isolation transformers, user interface framework) are established.
The key is to start with a specific functional request, design it, implements it, and test it. After one is complete, you have something to show, and you can start on the next.
Keeping the tasks and results organized is a main factor contributing to success.
Now, looking at automated lockable windows and doors, I suspect that this is a product line in itself. Latches with appropriate digital control would be much more appealing if they were 'architectural quality', meaning unseen. And both doors and windows have issues with local fire codes as both fire exits and barriers to the spread of flame. In some cases, the latch's normal function must be overridden by the presence of fire.
Again, this all implies are rather extensive remodel or a custom built new home approach. But together with a good lighting scheme, one would be well along the way to a completely automated home.
Other issues, such as heating/cooling and ventilation are rather centralized. Alternatively, bathroom and kitchen environments are rather localized and specific in their demands. Just providing an appropriate bridge onto the home automation network with room enough for expansion would be helpful. Outdoor areas are rather different than indoor - some environmental controls for the building's heating and cooling might be wanted, but in most cases if would be more about perimeter security and ambiance lighting. Wiring could easily be placed underground, so alternatives are more flexible.
This leaves two problems. #1 is truly isolated things like burglar alarm sensors and thermostats, which may have no common wiring with the rest of the house. The X10 approach of making these wireless is probably best, but their solution was fickle, easily hacked, and unreliable. Conveniently Parallax owns a CPU design which can be throttled to insanely low levels of power usage, though...
The other problem is light switches, which in nearly all US homes can only receive power in series with their load. X10 does this by assuming a resistive load, but their scheme breaks (and badly) with anything else; I ruined 3 lamp modules trying to power a hot tub lighting system, which started with a transformer to 12VAC, before I realized I needed to use a relay-output appliance module for that. Whatever it is has to work with CFL's. This might require trickling energy into a temporary store such as a supercap to be used when power can't be extracted in series with the load. Or a very small resistance could be in series with the load, equipped with something like a joule thief to power the switch when its load is on.
Later, add-ons might be created to tempt adopters into tackling a wiring job, but if the basic system requires rewiring it will not take off.
Obviously, I don't think that is possible. Even X10 suggests an isolation transformer. I fear that one might just have an overlay of extension cords and a clutter of gadgets at electrical outlets. And so I take the more architectural approach.
Low voltage DC wiring presents no fire hazard and in many areas doesn't even require an electrician to install. Also, it can be easily hidden behind specially adapted baseboards (not a big cost) and pulled through vertical stud wall cavities if there is a need to get higher locations. And that is why I mentioned CANbus - electrically safe and able to provide a level of service that is diverse AND secure.
I believe that if solutions are looked for that are well-integrated and have the kind of simple appeal that Apple has become famous for, people will buy and install home automated that does require wiring. Sure, it isn't a DIY after-market, but it is a real market. And may be a lot safer than what people are trying to do with X10 now.
I think I've already made my presentation in several segments - specifically designed light switches (and maybe similar outlets) which allow remote control to override local control; new door and windows systems that have systems built into them and their frames rather than an overlay of latches and sensors; and the rest can pretty much be considered as specialized contexts - kitchens, baths, swimming pools, etc.
At some point, automated home does mean that additions require power. How would you fit a power window to an auto that does not have power windows without additional wiring? Paradoxical to me.
X10 in its current state is convenient for some specific needs, but it would rather clutter up a whole house.
I am aware that the X10 light switches are NOT able to handle any and all kinds of loads at this time, relays need to be deployed somehow and I suspect that means mechanic relays - not solid-state.
As we have seen with Wifi, anything wireless can be snooped. If a wireless scheme is deployed, I'd prefer have it be IR with a hand held remote to be an added feature and each room would be isolated as an area of transmission.
If I wanted to add power windows to my car, I'd remove the door card, mount the motor and whatever bracketry is needed,then plug the wires into the socket hidden near the hinges where the rest of the wiring to the door also terminates...
(cables for heated mirrors, door locks, power windows and so on, are all gathered in a thick cable that ends with a screw-mount connector that fits into the door. So every cable is there inside the car, they're just missing the final bit to the non-existent motors)
House automation will not become really practical before the required wiring is put in place as the building is built, or that they at least take it into the design process and puts in conduits for later use.
Okay, setting aside the debatable example, I think you still see my point that new wiring will at times be required.
What I am try to do is present feasible segments for development as one manufacturer is NOT going to take on a complete home automation package for all and everything. It is going to take getting a combination of products that work together with some network and communication standards/choices for the mutual benefit of all the manufacturers involved.
Some examples,
In Taiwan, we already have IR control in nearly all new air conditioners: centralized or window placed. So it makes more sense to work with the IR than to do something else - like wireless. And IR is nice because it is cheap and communications are contained to line of sight and usually in one room. That seems to tell me that each room should have an IR transciver connected to a central network.
Other areas need better products, like better X10 light switches or we have to seek new alternatives, IR controlled light switches that operate all kinds of loads or the more complex items.
Some areas may need new development, like IR controlled electrical outlets, or table lamps, or floor lamps. And while I don't need automated doors and windows, there may be some demand for such. And also, automated curtain and window shades would be desired (which I suspect are already available).
In some cases, an automated home might lead to new applicances - like a freezer/microwave combination that moves a meal from storage to table ready. Some applicances may take a long time to evolve, like refrigeration that keeps inventory of everything in it (it requires developing a database of items and a labling system that are standardized lables).
The only way home automation is going to become wildly popular is when there is a near complete catalogue of good product choices. I doubt that pre-wiring homes as a starting point will become popular as different owners may want to do it differently. And wooden stud wall construction would take one approach and concrete walls (here in Taiwan) would require another. If you have attic, drop ceilings, and crawl spaces, you have other options.
Above all, this choice of home automation should be a feature that adds value to a home, so that the next buyer is pleased to buy it and see it as a good deal -- not just a way to fit your home to personal taste. After all, it is somewhat of a capital investment.
To begin with, I am not encouraging you to do this if you are not an experience electrician and it is not okay to do so where you live. I used to be a Licensed General Contractor and have rewired my own home myself with proper electric permits as allowed by the State of Oregon - other states may not be so considerate.
I located Magnecraft Latching Relays at Mouser. There are very nice ones that are rated 12amps and 16 amps. I guess the 16 amp devices would be best used in line with 15amp circuit breakers. Lighting is usually on a 15 amp circuit.
If you wanted to create a Control box with all the lighting for the entire house next to the Circuit breaker box, you could then do a couple of simple modifications at the boxes that have the individual light switches.
First, just connect the 120VAC in the light switch box so the light circuit is always complete. You will later divert the switch function to the latching relay from the circuit breaker that feeds the particular lighting. For now, only the circuit breakers will turn the lights on and off.
Second, pull low voltage wiring - you have a choice of 12VDC, 24VDC, and 24VAC - depending on the kind of relays you select. I'd probably use the 24VDC for long wires with possible voltage drop. This wiring would need a supply at the same box as the latching relays. And you would need to find a way to get the wire to go all the way into the original light switch box.
Third, take a blank light switch plate and install a momentary contact switch to toggle the light on and off.
If you have outlets you want to control, you don't have to pull the low voltage wire anywhere - just have the digital network provide a pulse to toggle them on and off.
These are nice industrial quality latching switches that have LEDs to indicate the position of the relay at all times. Since the switching is converted to a momentary pulse of a lower voltage, there is not a lot of problems with programming. And since the wiring is 24 volt or less, it is much safer in terms of shock and fire hazard.
I think the relays are about $15 each, so 10 rooms could be done with $150 USD of relays. And the rest of the automated control would be centralized next to where the electrical service panel is. If a relay fails, it can be unplugged and replaced like a broken light bulb.
In general, pulses at the light switch would override network commands unless software to sense condition and to take over control from the light switch is imposed.
These latching relays are DPDT, and at most you only need SPDT to control just about any light. Multiple switches on one lighting circuit are resolved by the momentary contact - not by using SPDT logic (as is traditional with light switches). There are a lot of clever ways you can combine these. but I am thinking of merely SPST use. You could have the other side of the relay provide a network of indicator light, but that is getting a bit complex.
While the load controllers are expensive ($45-$70) the ZWAVE protocol work very well. I wish it was not proprietary so I could interface some prop stuff directly into the mesh but I can still use HomeSeer to bridge between ZWAVE and X10 and a few other protocols if I need to.
It is great to be getting ready for bed on the second floor of my house and pushing the "Bedtime" button to lock the front door and turn off all of the lights (that I have selected).
I also have it set to turn off the TV when it is my son's bedtime. No procrastination because the computer does not care if he begs for 5 more minutes, it just turns the TV off when it is time.
I should also mention that the only battery that I use is in the front door lock. I have a motion sensor in the entry way that triggers a light but I bypassed the battery for that and it runs off of a wall-wart and a convenient plug.
I think this means "no additional wiring for items that are already installed". Of course new installation items need wiring, this is a given. The objection is to any requirement for additional wiring for control to be run for items that are already in place.
I saw material about using visible LED light for control. The LED is modulated to send control to to the targets, and to dim the lights. Of course, this method has trouble with sunlight, and all the devices in a given area recieve the same data stream. Anybody look into this?
Lots opt ions, lots of things to consider. Perhaps a solution does not have to appeal to everyone with a complete catalog, but simple address a specific need, towards BUILDING a catalog.
The simplest fact is that some of us rent and don't own, others own their own place. This in itself indicates that more than one solution to automation is likely needed. One could even automate their own work space with portable solutions.
As far as the 'No New Wiring" mandate, I feel that it is time for many hobbyist to get real. To do a really good job with home automation, one has to do things with 110VAC and 220VAC and in circuits that provide as much as at least 30amps (like electric baseboard heating and ovens). And some how, lighting control needs to become centralized rather than distributed. That is just a fact of life.
What I am trying to say is that one cannot do all of this with circuit boards and pull ins. An in many cases, the core device is a latching relay such as I have mentioned. The big advantages with latching relays are that it doesn't require constant control voltage to maintain its position - it takes a low voltage pulse and remembers, and if the power goes out and comes back later, it still remembers.
I also think it is appropriate to suggest that some other skills - carpentry and painting and such - are going to be required to do a really slick home automation.
This doesn't mean that I completely exclude X10 schemes. I just think that there is a right context for X10. If X10 was built into lamps - both table and floor lamps - it might be really slick. Still, good switching is going to likely end up with mechanical relays doing the job. There has been work done on creating a better coding scheme that works like X10. Why not develop a public domain standard?
I also feel that since TV, stereo, and A/C all use IR; a IR bridge of some sort needs to be considered. In addition to the IR bridge to the rest of the network, a handheld IR controller that works with everything IR that is in a room would be great too. In one alternative scheme, no X10 would not be required; all the devices within a room could be IR controled.
This is in response to the statement:
" The only way home automation is going to become wildly popular is when there is a near complete catalogue of good product choices. "
Just saying it is difficult to eat the elephant in one bite. It is sometimes advantageous to address one specific need and create and implementation that fully addresses that, and then move on to the next. The goal should not be "wildly successful" but instead an elegant and effective solution for each individual need addressed. Each success will build toward a catalog, but the catalog is driven by stated needs that are addressed, rather than an ambiguous requirements for a "complete catalog".
No wall switch should ever control a outlet/light fixture directly, e.g no circuit in series.
Even if the owner does not want it automated at first, every switch (low voltage) should go to a central location.
This center has independent 120v wires (or maybe a future 24v dc standard) running to each and every outlet/light fixture.
It would then not be hard to add automation to this system later.
The plumbing industry have gone this way and now have cheap plastic tubing going to each and every faucet/toilet/shower in parallel.
So no more hot shocks in the shower due to some one flushing the toilet next to it.
So if they can do it the electrician industry have no excuses.