Any supplier that sells vinyl film for sign-makers should also have the polyester. I got mine years ago from a local outfit that's no longer in business.
I used the Kapton tape, with acetone, the item stayed there longer, I was printing the skull example, on half the way up, it detached again, I think that has to do with the Z axis, after a while the nozzle put too much pressure on the item. (The Z Axis calibration goes well as expected, I also checked the Voltage, on the motor driver.)
Today I'm going to buy some vinyl film.
Right, if you're having problems with the extruder colliding with the build object, then the most likely problem is that your extruder is extruding too fast (or moving too slow.)
You can adjust those settings in Skeinforge (Build G-Code) and either slow the extruder or speed up the head.
It may be too much to assume that the extruder in this case is "colliding" with the build object. In my case, it was more a question of pulling on it which, due to the build platform's lack of stickiness, was enough to dislodge the object before it was finished. This normally happened with tall, skinny objects that provided the extruder head with quite a bit of leverage against a small base area. By removing the ABP belt from the HBP and adding an aluminum heat spreader and the polyester, I was able to solve the problem without any changes to the Skeinforge settings.
O.K. I tryed kapton tape and I build a couple of parts, at the height of 1.2 to 1.4 mm the extruder started to push the items but it did not detached them. I'm afraid that, on taller objects I will have the same problem. So What I need is: how to make the extruder to work a little heigher than the object. I think I will start at 1mm heigher than the HBP. Results in an hour ...
It helps what W9GFO said that the extruder never touches the object.
... But I think that when building the base the nozzle should push the ABS so it will stick on the base and the nozzle should go a little higher so it does not push the object, so I think I should look first inside skeinforge settings !!!
When I first started printing I noticed that the nozzle was making furrows in the first couple layers. It was because the Z axis was not moving smoothly and was not raising when it should. My fix for that is this;
Also check your settings to be sure that you are not pushing too much plastic through. Are you using Print-O-Matic?
I've gone through ten to fifteen pounds of ABS and not once have I had the problem that you are describing (that couldn't be fixed by cleaning the build platform). I never print using raft or support. Here is an album with some things that I have printed;
... But I think that when building the base the nozzle should push the ABS so it will stick on the base and the nozzle should go a little higher so it does not push the object,
When the print starts the nozzle should be just barely above the platform. The Z height is adjusted in "Machine" -> "Motherboard Onboard Preferences". If the nozzle is too close the plastic will be wide and thin and the extruder stepper may start skipping steps due to the added resistance. If it is too high then the plastic won't adhere to the platform and it will drag the string of plastic around.
One sheet of paper is the proper distance for the first layer. It should be semi-smashed into the build platform and the temp should be ~110 for ABS for it to stick great.
On some complex prints, I still use a raft, which works even better. That will allow the object to have a little more resistance when it gets tall. Even on the ABP, it shouldn't come off or get knocked around. I've built 4" tall towers on my ABP with no problem using the raft.
For anyone thinking of purchasing a MakerBot you can save three hundred dollars on a Thing-O-Matic this weekend using the coupon code TURKEYSTUFFER.
[h=4]MakerBot Thing-O-Matic Discount[/h]For a $1999.00 fully-assembled kit: use coupon code TRYPTOPHAN. For a $999.00 user-assembled kit: use coupon code TURKEYSTUFFER.
OK, I would like to inform you that the problem is solved.
1. Using Kapton tape cleaned with acetone
2. Layer Height 0.32mm (I think that this Layer Height is misleading, it does not apply to Z axis movement but to material that the nozzle extrudes) Am I correct or not?
3. Temperature 210 C
Seen it. It has been discussed on some IRC chats and forums, and there's a bit of a concern among some of us who have Mendels/Prusa and similar that it won't be very stable. That the Z-rods will become wobbly over time and that it'll affect print quality. But most of us also agrees that it's a nice design. (The mendel and Prusa designs aren't exactly shining examples of stylish design)
I believe there's already two similar designs available on Thingiverse.com
Seen it. It has been discussed on some IRC chats and forums, and there's a bit of a concern among some of us who have Mendels/Prusa and similar that it won't be very stable. That the Z-rods will become wobbly over time and that it'll affect print quality.
I was thinking the same thing. But, it shouldn't be too hard to add a cross-brace at the top and some "A-frame" braces on the sides to stabilize the vertical rods if necessary. That should help some.
The discussion says something about it being in a wood frame.
Also, "over time" you would print spares and mods, and you could upgrade it to your own needs.
The PLUS model is the same 8 inch square size as the standard mnachine, due to design upgrades due to volume cost benefits.
I just got my rig tweaked, and printed "spares" using more recent design. But I haven't had the need to swap anything out yet, I'm still on my first 5 pound spool.
I have recently reached the limits of what I can do with my Thing-O-Matic. The TOM is just not large enough. I have started to collect parts to build a larger, more rigid and more powerful 3d printer. When I get around to it is unknown. I spent days trying to figure out how to print a part that was 175% the size of my build platform. I ended up having to compromise and print it in two parts and make a portion of it laser cut.
Anyway, there is an upgrade that I recently made that has extended my TOM's usefulness. Actually two, the first is I have switched to PLA. The other, more important improvement is the Sailfish firmware. This is the code that resides on the MakerBot's motherboard and it implements acceleration - something that was lacking before.
The change to way the machine runs is remarkable. This is the way it should have been from the beginning. If you have a TOM, I highly recommend giving it a try. I can print at double the speed that I used to. The finish quality is excellent and the machine runs smoother. I used to print at about 50mm/sec max, or 20 to 30 for best quality. Now I print at 40 to 50 for best quality and 80 to 100mm/sec for simpler shapes.
Unfortunately, it is not the simplest of upgrades, although it is completely free. It took me a couple of hours before I had it completed. Partially due to having to open up the machine to verify board versions and then opening it up again to troubleshoot the extruder not working - it ended up being a software issue.
'Funny you should bring this up just now. My ToM quit on me a couple days ago. Communication with the extruder board got flaky and finally quit altogether. So I upgraded the firmware and, like you, had to take the bottom off and one of the boards out to see which versions I had and to flash the extruder board via its USB connector. The weird thing is that the extruder board is silkscreened with the '328 model number, but the chip on it is a '168. Anyway, the upgrade didn't resolve the problem. My suspicion now is that there's a broken CAT5 connection on the bottom of the extruder board. The short CAT5 cable puts a lot of stress on the connector, and one of the solder joints may finally have broken. With all the connections, though, it's a real pita to remove that board, which is why I've saved that until last.
I do look forward to the improved performance that you note, assuming I can get the thing working again.
I have recently reached the limits of what I can do with my Thing-O-Matic. The TOM is just not large enough. I have started to collect parts to build a larger, more rigid and more powerful 3d printer. When I get around to it is unknown. I spent days trying to figure out how to print a part that was 175% the size of my build platform. I ended up having to compromise and print it in two parts and make a portion of it laser cut.
We ran into size issues on the prusa. One solution to divide the model into 6x6x5" (max) sections, and print a hole with a slash through it as a fiducial marker. We made the holes 2mm, a round tooth o=pick can be used as a peg and the parts joined together. Its not too bad if you don't look to closely.
Comments
-Phil
1. Make sure your Z height is correct and your platform very level.
2. Clean the build surface with acetone (Kapton tape on build platform).
-Phil
Today I'm going to buy some vinyl film.
BTW If anyone is interested, I use Mach3 application to review the toolpath and the object I'm building (it's free) http://www.machsupport.com/downloads.php
-Phil
You can adjust those settings in Skeinforge (Build G-Code) and either slow the extruder or speed up the head.
Bill
-Phil
It helps what W9GFO said that the extruder never touches the object.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10220
Also check your settings to be sure that you are not pushing too much plastic through. Are you using Print-O-Matic?
I've gone through ten to fifteen pounds of ABS and not once have I had the problem that you are describing (that couldn't be fixed by cleaning the build platform). I never print using raft or support. Here is an album with some things that I have printed;
http://modelstation.smugmug.com/3D-Printing
The only time I have noticed the nozzle dragging is when printing this object;
As it was being printed those spirals are just holding themselves up in mid air. It's amazing to me that it prints at all.
When the print starts the nozzle should be just barely above the platform. The Z height is adjusted in "Machine" -> "Motherboard Onboard Preferences". If the nozzle is too close the plastic will be wide and thin and the extruder stepper may start skipping steps due to the added resistance. If it is too high then the plastic won't adhere to the platform and it will drag the string of plastic around.
Yes, but are you using Print-O-Matic when generating the Gcode?
I'm starting a new test with nozzle 1mm above plate and speed to 5mm/min (very slow)
.1mm is thin like a paper, my next test
On some complex prints, I still use a raft, which works even better. That will allow the object to have a little more resistance when it gets tall. Even on the ABP, it shouldn't come off or get knocked around. I've built 4" tall towers on my ABP with no problem using the raft.
Bill
For a $999.00 user-assembled kit: use coupon code TURKEYSTUFFER.
1. Using Kapton tape cleaned with acetone
2. Layer Height 0.32mm (I think that this Layer Height is misleading, it does not apply to Z axis movement but to material that the nozzle extrudes) Am I correct or not?
3. Temperature 210 C
Thank you all 4 your help
-Phil
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printrbot/printrbot-your-first-3d-printer?ref=category
He's raised ~2,000% of his orginal goal or around $500,000!
I believe there's already two similar designs available on Thingiverse.com
I was thinking the same thing. But, it shouldn't be too hard to add a cross-brace at the top and some "A-frame" braces on the sides to stabilize the vertical rods if necessary. That should help some.
Also, "over time" you would print spares and mods, and you could upgrade it to your own needs.
The PLUS model is the same 8 inch square size as the standard mnachine, due to design upgrades due to volume cost benefits.
I just got my rig tweaked, and printed "spares" using more recent design. But I haven't had the need to swap anything out yet, I'm still on my first 5 pound spool.
Anyway, there is an upgrade that I recently made that has extended my TOM's usefulness. Actually two, the first is I have switched to PLA. The other, more important improvement is the Sailfish firmware. This is the code that resides on the MakerBot's motherboard and it implements acceleration - something that was lacking before.
The change to way the machine runs is remarkable. This is the way it should have been from the beginning. If you have a TOM, I highly recommend giving it a try. I can print at double the speed that I used to. The finish quality is excellent and the machine runs smoother. I used to print at about 50mm/sec max, or 20 to 30 for best quality. Now I print at 40 to 50 for best quality and 80 to 100mm/sec for simpler shapes.
Unfortunately, it is not the simplest of upgrades, although it is completely free. It took me a couple of hours before I had it completed. Partially due to having to open up the machine to verify board versions and then opening it up again to troubleshoot the extruder not working - it ended up being a software issue.
Link to Sailfish Firmware;
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084
'Funny you should bring this up just now. My ToM quit on me a couple days ago. Communication with the extruder board got flaky and finally quit altogether. So I upgraded the firmware and, like you, had to take the bottom off and one of the boards out to see which versions I had and to flash the extruder board via its USB connector. The weird thing is that the extruder board is silkscreened with the '328 model number, but the chip on it is a '168. Anyway, the upgrade didn't resolve the problem. My suspicion now is that there's a broken CAT5 connection on the bottom of the extruder board. The short CAT5 cable puts a lot of stress on the connector, and one of the solder joints may finally have broken. With all the connections, though, it's a real pita to remove that board, which is why I've saved that until last.
I do look forward to the improved performance that you note, assuming I can get the thing working again.
-Phil
We ran into size issues on the prusa. One solution to divide the model into 6x6x5" (max) sections, and print a hole with a slash through it as a fiducial marker. We made the holes 2mm, a round tooth o=pick can be used as a peg and the parts joined together. Its not too bad if you don't look to closely.