Mabuchi Motors voltage greater than 3v
Hello All,
I am using this Tamiya kit Shovel/Dozer for a little project. From what I have read it uses Mabuchi Motors(FA-130) these are rated at 3v. All my searches produce people asking the same question.
Does anyone know of a higher voltage motor with the same form factor?
The motors need to fit in the gear box.
If a suitable motor doesn't exist or isn't readily available(in the USA) running these motors at a higher voltage is said to shorten life span, by how much? I would really like to use the L293D and batteries(7.4v) I have on hand for this project.
Has anyone here run them at a higher voltage for long periods and experienced failure.
I have ran one of them for about 30 seconds not very long and it is barely warm to the touch.
This project doesn't have to explore Mars for 20 years. But I do have a stump in the front yard that I would like it to remove.
GordonMcComb
It seems a higher voltage draws less mA that seems like a good thing. If the motors last.
Great book by the way Gordon if your reading this. Maybe the answer is in there I am going to look.
Thanks for any input
Ron
I am using this Tamiya kit Shovel/Dozer for a little project. From what I have read it uses Mabuchi Motors(FA-130) these are rated at 3v. All my searches produce people asking the same question.
Does anyone know of a higher voltage motor with the same form factor?
The motors need to fit in the gear box.
If a suitable motor doesn't exist or isn't readily available(in the USA) running these motors at a higher voltage is said to shorten life span, by how much? I would really like to use the L293D and batteries(7.4v) I have on hand for this project.
Has anyone here run them at a higher voltage for long periods and experienced failure.
I have ran one of them for about 30 seconds not very long and it is barely warm to the touch.
This project doesn't have to explore Mars for 20 years. But I do have a stump in the front yard that I would like it to remove.
GordonMcComb
That said, the L298 is not a great choice for the 3V Mabuchi toy motors. It really wants to see the supply voltage at least 2.5 volts above logic input HIGH voltage, which is a minimum of 2.3V (max = Vss). Assuming 3.3V logic input, Vs needs to be at a minimum 3.3 + 2.5 volts. There is some drop through the bridge, but at >5V those 3V motors will run hot and hard. At 3V and stall they'll over-rate the L298, which is only 2A per channel.
It seems a higher voltage draws less mA that seems like a good thing. If the motors last.
Great book by the way Gordon if your reading this. Maybe the answer is in there I am going to look.
Thanks for any input
Ron
Comments
How did I miss site?:frown:
Ron
http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/en_US/product/p_0304.html
Funny thing in my searches I scanned past them. I thought of them as a place to purchase motors, gear boxes ext.. Didn't expect to find whole page on testing of the motors.
@ajward thanks I'll go back there and try and match the can of the motor with another and see if I can find it in the USA if it exists. The search continues.
The motor was right in front of me HERE. :cool: They only have 1,296 units in stock.
The MyFirstRobot project -- coming out in monthly installments on my support site -- relies on these HE 6V motors when adapting the robot to electronic control. The MFR project uses the Tamiya 3-speed motors, which are essentially the same as the Twin Motor gearbox in separate form.
-- Gordon
Thanks
-Ron
From Jameco part no. 231732 here is the Datasheet. PC*130SF*09480
Of course I couldn't resist taking them apart to see the differences took some pics for those interested.
In both pictures the bottom motor is the new one and the top is the stock one.
The new motors seem to be built better they actually have little brushes. They don't have bearings they use bushings but could be replace with bearings if you want to got through the trouble. I chose the lower RPM version cause I figured for my application I didn't need speed. Less RPM = more torque I think. I don't know about their current draw yet I hope it stays within the L293D's specs. I will post more about their current draw in my project post in the near future.
Size: The new motor is physically the same size just doesn't have the conture of the stock motor so the little locking clamps on the Tamiya gear box don't actually lock them in. But they fit so snug you have to grab them with something (pliers) to pull them out, that + gravity should keep them in there place.
Ron
PS: Some day I'll figure out how to make the pictures bigger in a post. :frown:
I got a few of these motors at All Electronics just to try out. They're not exact drop-ins for the 130s used in the Tamiya motors, but they're close. If they fit, they fit.
-- Gordon
I will use either 4 or 5 NiMH cells for power, so I'll be running close to six volts. I'm thinking a 2 amp fuse would be cheap insurance against h-bridge damage. Does this sound like a good idea?
A note about the RE-260s on these gearboxes: be sure to add strain relief to the wires connected to the terminals. On several of the motors I've had the terminals just tug out, ruining the motor. The motors are easily replaced, but it's a hassle. Likewise the terminals will come out if you linger your soldering iron a bit too long.
These RE-260s are noisy, so be sure to add the filtering caps against the motor terminals. One 0.1uF cap across ought to be sufficient. If you have to add the caps between the terminals to the case, solder these to the leads of the cap going across the terminals. You'll never get three leads (power + 2 caps) soldered onto the terminal without risk of damage. (Yes, I know this firststand!)
Tamiya has other gearboxes that use the RE-260s and aren't worm gear, if you're worried about frictional losses. They have a wider "stance" though. That may be okay in your design.
-- Gordon