Do I really need a prop plug?
kutalinelucas
Posts: 80
Sorry if this has been asked or is moronic, but I can't seem to find a difinative answer.
What exactly is the propeller clip/plug? is it a USB -> serial connector? Couldn't I just use a USB-B plug and socket to communicate with it that way?
I have a usb rig built to communicate with one of my PICs, and that works beautifully.
If this isn't possible I have a basic stamp 2 carrier board with a usb -> serial connector (usb to computer, serial plug to the board with an adapter in between)...would this be of any help to me?
This is my first delve into the prop chip, I'll order a clip if nessesary, but i'd rather figure out a way around it instead of waiting for the postman...
Any suggestions or info would be appriciated.
What exactly is the propeller clip/plug? is it a USB -> serial connector? Couldn't I just use a USB-B plug and socket to communicate with it that way?
I have a usb rig built to communicate with one of my PICs, and that works beautifully.
If this isn't possible I have a basic stamp 2 carrier board with a usb -> serial connector (usb to computer, serial plug to the board with an adapter in between)...would this be of any help to me?
This is my first delve into the prop chip, I'll order a clip if nessesary, but i'd rather figure out a way around it instead of waiting for the postman...
Any suggestions or info would be appriciated.
Comments
There is a 3-transistor interface for RS-232 shown on the Propeller Downloads webpage. You can use this as a model for your own interface.
As I don't have a desktop computer I do not have access to a RS-232 socket, hence the reason I am using a serial to usb converter for the bs2 programming board. So, following the scematic above, would I be 1. converting a usb connection from the prop chip to a serial connection,
2. then using my converter to switch it back to usb before plugging it into the computer?
I'm a little coffufled. I was hoping I could just use the USB interface I built for my pic. I've looked up the prop plugs and they cost £30+, where in america they cost $13!
Without knowing anything about the PIC - USB interface you built, there's no way to tell whether you can use it or parts of it. Presumably, you ought to be able to use it with some kind of interface circuitry to match voltages and provide the right reset signal.
If you have the parts on-hand for the 3-transistor circuit, by all means try it with your USB to serial converter. If you don't, getting Parallax's or the equivalent FTDI adapter is a fool-proof choice.
If you can post a schematic of your PIC - USB interface, we can comment on what you'd need to adapt it for the Propeller.
I don't have the components but they will be a short train journey away which I will do on monday. I'll also get a new converter...just in case.
Thanks for all your help, and i'll let you know how I get on
Martyn
1. Boards with RS232, such as the PropRPM. These have a MAX232 chip on board to convert RS232 to 3v3-TTL and if your computer has a serial port, all you need is a cable; if it doesn't, you need a USB serial adapter, and just about any of them should work. Such boards are pretty rare in PropLand though. The PropRPM is the only one I've ever used.
2. Boards with FTDI chip on board, basically they come with their own built-in PropPlug, such as the DemoBoard and ProtoBoard USB. For them all you need is the USB cable and driver.
3. Boards that expect a PropPlug. These have a four-pin header that expects 3v3 TTL serial signals (including the handshake pin Mike G mentions). There is basically no simple way to connect a random PC to these boards. You can spring for a PropPlug or try the transistor circuit with a real serial port or with a USB to serial adapter that may or may not work. If you are a hobbyist and you're just going to buy one or two boards to re-use for projects it might make more sense to just get Prop boards with the USB onboard for a bit more. But if you're developing for things you'll want to make in quantity you won't want to pay for the USB-serial circuitry on every single one when most will just be programmed once and sent into the wild, and then you need either a PropPlug or an equivalent solution.
However, any USB to Serial RS232 with a DB9 connector should work with the 3 transistor circuit. The 3 transistor circuit is cheap enough to try. Note that basically any general purpose npn and pnp transistor should work, so if the electronics shop does not have the transistors in the circuit, substitute them with cheap transistors, as long as they are correct npn and pnp.
Some of the converters with fewer pins (designed for connection to arduino, pic, etc) do not have the full set of serial pins (so they may have RTS instead of DTR) and may be 5V TTL (no RS232 converter). If they are TTL, and 5V, then use a 3K3, 4K7 or probably even 10K in series in the RXD line and TXD line should all work. Now, for the DTR line (or RTS line if that is only available - see below) you can use the transistor circuit of the propplug (DTR to 10nF to base of transistor (any general purpose npn transistor 2N2222, etc - ensure you get the correct pinout), a 10K across the base emitter of the transistor and tie the emitter to ground, and tie the collector to the prop reset pin).
Now, you can modify the PropTool to use RTS instead of DTR in the preferences section.
My personal favourite circuit is a Max232 and a BC557 on the reset line. I like the max232 because then you can reuse the download pins as a standard RS232 port for inter-prop communications (and comms to other things).
There are quite a number of different solutions, and dare I say it, they all do work out cheaper than the prop-plug.
It's nice to have the option handy, and it's got the advantage of only building one serial port on your computer. As you setup lots of boards, the ports kind of pile up on XP. Not a big deal, just a consideration.
Anyway, once you have the thing, you have it, and it means just being able to quickly deal with many of the boards out there.
Chanks for the info
We just need to know what you have. It appears you have a proper USB to RS232 adapter with a DB9 connector on it. If so, build the 3 transistor circuit (on Parallax's website). You require general purpose 2x NPN transistors (2N2222, BC107, BC108, BC109, 2N3904, etc) and 1x PNP transistor (2N3906, BC177, BC178, BC179, etc). The TO-92 plastic case is probably the easiest obtained (check the pinout from the manufacturer on google because some pinouts vary e.g. the P2N2222A is not the same as 2N2222 from another manufacturer). Here is just one link http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/tran.htm
A PropPlug is easier, but it will cost you. You could also consider that the new Starter Board from Parallax is cheap ($20) and includes the FTDI chip on the pcb. Once you have this running simply, we can tell you how you could use this to make a prop-plug for from it.
I do understand this is frustrating because you have some gear you wnat to try and don't have the required bits to get it going. Hang in there, and give us a bit more info.
It is not so simple.
$15 = about 100 sek
http://www.lawicel-shop.se/shop/ In Sweden = 123,00 sek with taxes and some EURO countries have more extra payment them add to it.
123 sek is more that I need for eating on one day!
In general, if things are useful for me for years and years I won't look at the cost at all. I bought some things in my youth that I had to save up a long time for. I still have them, good as new, while friends who bought cheaper low-quality items had to buy them again and again. My way was cheaper in the long run.
(When that's said - I haven't been using a propeller for long enough to know if the Prop Plug is something that will continue to be useful for a long time. My QuickStart doesn't need it.)
-Tor
EDIT: On the other hand - I had a look at that Swedish site, and what they're re-selling they're selling for prices which are close to the price of individual components ordered from the US sites with UPS or high-price option USPS shipping. The prices are listed without VAT, so I don't see any value in ordering from them when you can, for the same price, order a single item and ship it at high cost from the US, and pay VAT here. The only thing may be shipping time, but if internet shops in Sweden are as bad as in Norway then they won't actually ship when the order is received - it'll be some five-six days later.
Additional thought: While I can and often do spend less than $20/day on food, I have also often spent that much on one meal for myself at a notch above fast food chain restaurant such as Chili's or TGI Friday's.