Shop OBEX P1 Docs P2 Docs Learn Events
Techniques for punching holes in metal for panel-mount components? — Parallax Forums

Techniques for punching holes in metal for panel-mount components?

markaericmarkaeric Posts: 282
edited 2011-06-13 09:57 in Robotics
I never got around to researching this, but with the creation of this forum, I figured I might as well ask now..

I've noticed that various round panel-mount components such as potentiometers and connectors utilize a flat spot to prevent the component from freely spinning in place - especially if the nut that holds it in place comes a bit loose. How would someone go about doing this on a small scale without manually routing it by hand? Are there attachments for small presses?

Thanks

Comments

  • schillschill Posts: 741
    edited 2011-05-19 18:39
    For larger holes, you can use punches but they aren't cheap. There are some on this page of Mouser's catalog:

    http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogusd/643/2241.Pdf
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-05-19 18:41
    Greenleee punches : http://www.greenlee.com/

    The punches you are looking for make "D-shaped" holes.

    -Phil
  • markaericmarkaeric Posts: 282
    edited 2011-05-19 18:58
    Thanks!

    I swear, this place is faster than Google!

    -Mark
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2011-05-19 19:55
    My favorite tool in our shop is the Rotex punch. If they ever auction it off, I will buy it. http://www.rotexpunch.com/id12.html
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-05-19 20:02
    Wow! That is one pig of a punch!

    -Phil
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2011-05-20 08:59
    A nibbling tool is also a useful tool for hand cutting odd shaped holes in sheet metal or perfboard. Rarely seen by noobs, but a staple of us old timers. Radio Shack closed them out a few years back and I got a few.

    http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nickel-Plated-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO still available!
  • RobotWorkshopRobotWorkshop Posts: 2,307
    edited 2011-05-20 09:24
    schill wrote: »
    For larger holes, you can use punches but they aren't cheap. There are some on this page of Mouser's catalog:

    http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogusd/643/2241.Pdf

    That is what ebay is for! I ended up getting a pretty good deal on some punches there. You can get some very professional results with them! I really like the DB9 punches. Much cleaner than trying to drill, using a nibbling tool, and filing.
  • RobotWorkshopRobotWorkshop Posts: 2,307
    edited 2011-05-20 12:36
    If you want some really fancy or odd shaped holes there is always broaching....

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broaching_%28metalworking%29
  • Jorge PJorge P Posts: 385
    edited 2011-05-20 19:46
    When I was working in electronics R&D, we had a wealth of hole punches like the ones for DB-9/25 and I never realized how expensive they were till just a few weeks ago. Some punches I used cost hundreds of dollars. They were just basicaly two pieces of steel blocks in a particular shape with sharp edges, drill a hole for the guides and turn a screw till the punch was all the way through. Lookup "DB9 Punch tool" on google and you will find some product manufacturers/stores that have these types of punches

    If more people used them they would be much cheeper, but most people I have known usualy just make a jig for a router and use that to the same effect. you just need to find a router bit the right size and designed for the material you are cutting, in your case metal. Then make a jig, that fits over your product to be cut, so the smooth non cutting part of the router is guided along by the perticular jig. On some routers the smooth part is on the top, near the collet, on others it is on the bottom of the bit at the tip so design your jig for the type of bit you are using.
  • ctwardellctwardell Posts: 1,716
    edited 2011-05-23 08:08
    I typically print a 1:1 pattern on paper and use spray on adhesive to bond it to the panel to be cut.

    I then drill out as much of the material as possible and finish it of using a set of files like this:

    http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=037103219213

    You might also need a set of jewelers files if you have any really small details.

    This is good for prototypes and one or two pieces, not something I'd want to do for production.

    C.W.
  • Matt GillilandMatt Gilliland Posts: 1,406
    edited 2011-05-25 20:59
    erco wrote: »
    A nibbling tool is also a useful tool for hand cutting odd shaped holes in sheet metal or perfboard.

    I had two, broke one, and take *real good care* of the one I still have. I carry it with me to and from work in my Personal Tool Box, everyday.

    -Matt
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2011-05-27 14:56
    @Matt: Please stop agreeing with me!

    You're blowing our feigned online animosity!

    People need to believe in something REAL and pick a side. All that's left is you, me, and WWE.
  • Bob Lawrence (VE1RLL)Bob Lawrence (VE1RLL) Posts: 1,720
    edited 2011-05-30 11:38
    I have one of those RS nibbling tools as well.

    Here's one from Klein Tools that may do the job. It's available at Home Depot, Amazon etc..($25 or less)
    "Nibbler Tool


    • Cuts soft sheet metal, plastic, soft copper and aluminum, and tubing.
    • Ideal for air conditioning and heating installation, automobile work, model making, and sheet metal construction.
    "

    http://www.service.kleintools.com/Tools/PRD/Category/Cutting%20&%20Notching%20Tools%20SHEETMETAL-CUTNOTCH/Product/76011B
  • vettezr1vettezr1 Posts: 77
    edited 2011-06-02 12:16
    A bit expensive,, have you guys ever tried Northern Tool I just bought a set of sheet metal punches 9 to be exact for 29 dollars I will have to check but I think they are 1/4 - 1-5/8 round they also have the square dies but they were a bit more money these are the kind you drill a small hole then attach the die and tighten until it punches through I also just use a cheap home depot hole saw of course they only do round holes but you would be suprised how well they work on sheet metal
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-06-02 16:35
    Just be sure to wear leather gloves when you're drilling sheet metal -- especially with a hole saw. (This from someone who doesn't always take his own advice and has suffered the lacerating consequences. :( )

    -Phil
  • Bob Lawrence (VE1RLL)Bob Lawrence (VE1RLL) Posts: 1,720
    edited 2011-06-10 20:10
    @ Matt Gilliland + erco



    I believe this nibbler is similar to the Radio Shack one.


    Jameco Electronics: http://www.jameco.com



    TOOL,NIBBLING FOR CUTTING,TRIMMING,& NOTCHING SHEET METAL

    http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&productId=18810&catalogId=10001&freeText=nibbler&app.products.maxperpage=15&storeId=10001&search_type=jamecoall&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView

    Hanlong Industrail Co., LTD

    Replacement blade：HT-204 Blade

    HT-204
    ht_204.jpg
    Cuts sheet plate like chassis punch; cuts up to 18 AWG soft metal, 1/16” soft plate. For inside shape, drilled a 3/8” or 9.[FONT=新細明體]5[/FONT][FONT=新細明體]sign.jpg hole for starting cuts.[/FONT]
    http://www.hanlong.com.tw/en/type9_6.html
  • ElectricAyeElectricAye Posts: 4,561
    edited 2011-06-10 21:09
    Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) wrote: »
    Just be sure to wear leather gloves when you're drilling sheet metal -- especially with a hole saw. (This from someone who doesn't always take his own advice and has suffered the lacerating consequences. :( )

    -Phil

    I was taught to avoid using gloves around rotating machinery. This might not apply to a handheld drill but it certainly would apply to using a drill press. The reasoning is this: if you get your finger caught on something rotating, you might lose that little piece of finger, etc. But if your glove gets caught, it can pull your entire hand into the machine, and if the machine is big enough, then it can feed your entire arm into the mess until you're "wrapped around the axle" as one of my bosses was fond of saying. A Yale senior was killed recently on a lathe when her hair got caught in the machine and it pulled her in up to her neck. http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/14/nyregion/yale-student-dies-in-machine-shop-accident.html

    One way to avoid nasty things happening to sheet metal when drilling a hole is to sandwich the sheet metal between two pieces of flat scrap wood. You have to take special care to keep your intended target lined up, etc. but the resulting hole is usually much cleaner than anything you could do in air.
  • Paul Sr.Paul Sr. Posts: 435
    edited 2011-06-12 14:44
    It's about proper clamping. Whatever it is you are working with, find a good, non destructive way to clamp the piece well, and keep fingers AWAY from the work piece.
  • ElectricAyeElectricAye Posts: 4,561
    edited 2011-06-12 19:33
    Paul Sr. wrote: »
    It's about proper clamping. .....

    Very true!

    I might add one of the situations where people are tempted to wear gloves happens when they are "hogging out" a large hole in a piece of metal like aluminum. When lots of metal turnings/shavings are coming off the workpiece and people want to keep those cuttings from wrapping around the drill bit or milling bit, it's tempting for them to use gloves and manually try to pull the metal shavings away from the cutting bit. Those shavings can get a grip on the gloves and consequently pull glove+hand(+arm,etc.) into the mixmaster of the tool. One way to prevent long shavings from forming is to periodically back up the bit so the shavings break off into smaller pieces, and use a shop vac to continuously suck them away. It's a bit tedious that way but it's better than getting wrapped around the axle.
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2011-06-13 09:57
    No long hair, jewelry, or TIES around machine tools was the rule when I started. Long ago, back when machinists wore ties.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xyEJdnW1HM Safety first: check out the "mechanical engineer" at 40 seconds; no tie, and no safety glasses, having an epiphany with his face just inches from the high-speed milling machine! THAT'S how Robert the Robot was invented!
Sign In or Register to comment.