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Wires for my breadboard — Parallax Forums

Wires for my breadboard

SailerManSailerMan Posts: 337
edited 2011-05-16 12:06 in General Discussion
Quick Question... I purchased some wires that have pins on the ends to work with my breadboard.

I'd like to make my own custom length wires.. I would prefer that they are solder not crimp. Does anyone know what these pins are called and maybe a source? I'm looking for both male and female.

Thanks,
Eric

Comments

  • davejamesdavejames Posts: 4,047
    edited 2011-05-13 07:23
    ...picture, so we might see of what you speak?
  • SailerManSailerMan Posts: 337
    edited 2011-05-13 07:35
    I'll have to wait until I get home for a photo... But basically it's just a wire with two male pins at the ends.
  • schillschill Posts: 741
    edited 2011-05-13 08:01
    If I understand what you are looking for correctly, most of the available connectors are crimped and do not require soldering. I often do both, however. Crimp then solder.

    Here is one source, but you can find them at www.jameco.com, www.digikey,com, and www.mouser.com among others.

    Male pins: http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1931
    Female pins: http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1930

    They have housings as well:

    http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/70

    If it's a single pin, in lieu of housings I will often just use some heat shrink tubing.

    You can also use the pins from standard 0.1" headers. Just solder your wire to the pin, pull it out of the plastic (usually pretty easy), and add a little heat shrink tubing. The pins referenced above have a smaller diameter and do less damage to wireless breadboards than using header pins.

    There are also numerous pins out there with solder cups and no crimping required, but off hand I don't know of any with a diameter appropriate for solderless breadboards. They are usually for things like D-shaped serial and parallel port plugs.
  • SailerManSailerMan Posts: 337
    edited 2011-05-13 08:20
    OK I will do what you said and crimp then solder... Thanks for the links. Problem Solved.
  • Peter KG6LSEPeter KG6LSE Posts: 1,383
    edited 2011-05-13 08:22
    If you do not mind a tad contact Resistance then a straight staple works well too.

    milton.jpg
    sorry It had to be done
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2011-05-13 08:32
    A while back I read through NASA's best practices website. (Someone posted a link on the forum, I don't remember the URL now.)

    I was surprised to see they considered crimping just fine as a way of connection wires (multi-stranded). Solder after crimping was a big no-no.

    I learned a lot from that website. They only allow transparent or translucent heat shrink. Ever since reading that, I've only used transparent heat shrink. It's been really nice to be able to see what's under the heat shrink (which is why NASA uses it).

    Duane
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-05-13 08:38
    The reason solder is a no-no is that it creates a hard junction between the connector and the flexible wire strands, which can easily break at that point over time. A proper crimping tool will create a gas-tight connection between wire and connector, which is completely reliable.

    -Phil
  • Shawn LoweShawn Lowe Posts: 635
    edited 2011-05-13 08:42
    Duane Degn wrote: »
    A while back I read through NASA's best practices website. (Someone posted a link on the forum, I don't remember the URL now.)

    I was surprised to see they considered crimping just fine as a way of connection wires (multi-stranded). Solder after crimping was a big no-no.

    I learned a lot from that website. They only allow transparent or translucent heat shrink. Ever since reading that, I've only used transparent heat shrink. It's been really nice to be able to see what's under the heat shrink (which is why NASA uses it).

    Duane
    Where do you get your transpatent heat shrink?
  • schillschill Posts: 741
    edited 2011-05-13 08:45
    Duane Degn wrote: »
    I was surprised to see they considered crimping just fine as a way of connection wires (multi-stranded). Solder after crimping was a big no-no.

    Among other things, a bad solder joint can hide other problems (just like opaque heat shrink tubing).

    My own reason for crimping then soldering: I do not have a very good crimper. It is single level (same crimp for bare wire and insulation) and my crimps don't end up being very good. The solder saves the day for me. I do this for most small wires and connectors (like the ones linked above).

    For larger gauge wire to larger connectors, I only crimp. Getting a good solder joint in a large connector can be difficult - you need a lot of heat since the connector is a big heat sink and you can damage the wire's insulation and wick a lot of solder down along the wire.

    For higher power or larger batteries (sub C and up), I use Anderson Powerpole connectors (http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/) and only crimp the wires. But I did splurge and buy a dedicated crimper for those connectors. It makes pretty nice crimps.

    I did just order a new crimper to use on the smaller connectors, but I haven't received it yet. Once I've got it, I may stop soldering.

    Also, because I am sometimes too lazy to make custom cables (I always seem to need one right now), I do have a decent stockpile of the precrimped wires that www.pololu.com sells. I have a lot of the housings around since I've been using these types of connectors for many years. It's convenient to just grab the colors I want and put the cable together in a few seconds (assuming I'm ok with a 3", 6", or 12" cable - these aren't particularly cheap but the longer ones get really expensive and at that point I usually want a custom length anyway).
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2011-05-13 09:54
    Shawn Lowe wrote: »
    Where do you get your transpatent heat shrink?

    My latest batch was from MPJA. I also buy it from Digi-Key.

    I use the 3/64" a lot. I often damage the insulation on a wire as I'm soldering. A little bit of this stuff keeps me from worrying about a short from the damaged insulation.

    I understand why so many solder and crimp. A good crimper is very expensive and then it's often limited to a few connectors.

    Duane
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-05-13 10:32
    If you must solder after crimping, make sure the wire cannot flex at the joint, because it will break. Perhaps two applications of shrink tubing -- one over the other, with the inner one extending further up the wire -- could provide adequate stress relief.

    -Phil
  • SailerManSailerMan Posts: 337
    edited 2011-05-13 16:19
    Really good tips.. I agree about the soldering... I've ordered some pins and a crimping tools... Thanks.

    I have tons of Black Heat Shrink but I love the Idea of clear.. I'll have to look into it. You can never have too much spare Heat Shrink!!
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-05-13 18:57
    Clear vs. black: It all depends on how proud (or ashamed) you are of your crimp/solder joints. :)

    -Phil
  • davidsaundersdavidsaunders Posts: 1,559
    edited 2011-05-15 19:11
    Why do you need these ends for breadboarding? I just use solid core 22 AWG wire and strip the ends about 5 to 7 mm.
  • RDL2004RDL2004 Posts: 2,554
    edited 2011-05-15 19:41
    For me, they are just more convenient (kind of like 5 and 12 volt LEDs). You can buy them in packages with a variety of lengths and colors for just a few bucks. The ones I got are stranded wire which is more flexible and I find it a bit easier to work with.
  • schillschill Posts: 741
    edited 2011-05-16 05:48
    davidsaunders wrote: »
    Why do you need these ends for breadboarding? I just use solid core 22 AWG wire and strip the ends about 5 to 7 mm.

    Within a single breadboard (or several physically stuck together), I do what you describe. Usually, the wires are custom cut, bent, and routed so they lie flat on the board (assuming I don't have to go over components).

    Between boards and connecting to offboard sensors, etc., it's usually (although not always) easier to use stranded wire. Stranded wire is a bit of a pain to plug into breadboards :) .
  • davidsaundersdavidsaunders Posts: 1,559
    edited 2011-05-16 06:23
    The Breadboard jumper kits come with 22 AWG solid core wire with the ends striped to about 6mm and bent, this is the same wire I strip my self, and it is easy to bend the ends so that it will lay flat. once stripped it is easier to work with than the stuff in the jumper kits, because you can have the length you need exactly, not always available in the kits (especially when your project spans 8 to 16 breadboards).
  • schillschill Posts: 741
    edited 2011-05-16 06:40
    davidsaunders wrote: »
    The Breadboard jumper kits come with 22 AWG solid core wire with the ends striped to about 6mm and bent, this is the same wire I strip my self, and it is easy to bend the ends so that it will lay flat. once stripped it is easier to work with than the stuff in the jumper kits, because you can have the length you need exactly, not always available in the kits (especially when your project spans 8 to 16 breadboards).

    For solid wires, I cut and bend them myself as you describe.

    I do have some of the premade jumpers that you describe around. They came with some breadboards that I got a good deal on (the wires were essentially free). While I have used them - since they're here I might as well - I do not like them as much as the ones I make myself. The main reason (other than length sometimes) is the colors. The premade ones are color-coded based on length and I usually color-code based on use. For example, black = gnd, red = +V (unless multiple voltages are involved), yellow = simple signal "out", white = sensor in, etc. Of course these do vary sometimes.
  • ctwardellctwardell Posts: 1,716
    edited 2011-05-16 06:41
    While we are commenting on jumpers...

    One of these little suckers is a nice...

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=PTS-10-ND

    I bought one about 8 or 9 years ago when I was building a robot that had lots and lots of wiring for sensors, etc.

    C.W.
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-05-16 11:19
    I would recommend using that device in a well-ventilated area, away from other electronic devices. The fumes from melting PVC are both highly toxic and very corrosive. (That's the reason you can't cut PVC with a laser cutter.)

    -Phil
  • RobotWorkshopRobotWorkshop Posts: 2,307
    edited 2011-05-16 11:34
    Some of the best breadboard wiring that I use ended up being free. For just the M/M jumpers, which I mostly use, regular solid phone wiring works well. I've been in several office buildings that were re-wiring and you can usually get lengths of the phone cable for free. The cable usually has at least 50 conductors of all different colors. Just cut it in workable lengths, strip off the outer insulation holding all the wires, and you're ready to go.

    The one important thing to do it test it first. I've seen a couple rare instances that it was tough to strip the ends of the wire. The best wire to use is where you can just strip off the ends with your finger nails. If you can do that the using the stripper will be easy.

    I'll use it on the breadboard and also for hard wiring prototypes.

    If you want some M/F or F/F jumpers then the ones from Polou are the ones to get....

    Robert
  • ctwardellctwardell Posts: 1,716
    edited 2011-05-16 12:01
    Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) wrote: »
    The fumes from melting PVC are both highly toxic and very corrosive.

    Good tip, was not aware of it being corrosive, thanks.

    C.W.
  • schillschill Posts: 741
    edited 2011-05-16 12:06
    RobotWorkshop wrote: »
    Some of the best breadboard wiring that I use ended up being free. For just the M/M jumpers, which I mostly use, regular solid phone wiring works well. I've been in several office buildings that were re-wiring and you can usually get lengths of the phone cable for free. The cable usually has at least 50 conductors of all different colors. Just cut it in workable lengths, strip off the outer insulation holding all the wires, and you're ready to go.

    That's where most of the wire I used when I was a kid (elementary school) came from. If I took a slightly longer route walking home from school, I could pass a telephone junction box where they were always making changes. I could usually count on picking up lots of useful scraps that were left on the ground.
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