Shop OBEX P1 Docs P2 Docs Learn Events
Lead free solder - opinions wanted — Parallax Forums

Lead free solder - opinions wanted

vaclav_salvaclav_sal Posts: 451
edited 2011-05-02 06:35 in General Discussion
At present I have several 1 pound spools of leaded solder, hoping to last me few years.
So what that I am not EU compliant, I am not planning to export my hobby project anywhere.

But heard some rumblings that “lead free solder” is not that easy to work with.
Anybody like to share their opinions on the subject?

Vaclav

Comments

  • LeonLeon Posts: 7,620
    edited 2011-05-01 11:40
    I haven't had any problems when I've used it. I make sure that I use the correct temperature cartridge with my Metcal system, of course.
  • FranklinFranklin Posts: 4,747
    edited 2011-05-01 12:19
    Most of the problem is that it works differently than leaded and there is a slight learning curve.
  • ElectricAyeElectricAye Posts: 4,561
    edited 2011-05-01 14:06
    Franklin wrote: »
    Most of the problem is that it works differently than leaded....

    Franklin,

    could you elaborate on this? Is there a difference in how it wets, what sort of solder iron you need, etc.? I've been using leaded solder for far too long and now that my kid wants to learn how to solder, I want to switch to unleaded stuff.
  • ctwardellctwardell Posts: 1,716
    edited 2011-05-01 14:13
    I'm with ElectricAye, could some of those with experience using lead free share some tips.

    I tried using some lead free from RadioShack a year or so ago, I was able to complete the board I used it on but was very unhappy with how it looked. The connections tended to be dull and look a little cold joints. I went back to leaded solder because I didn't 'have' to use lead free and I like the results of leaded solder better, but I know over time I'll probably have to make the switch.

    C.W.
  • LeonLeon Posts: 7,620
    edited 2011-05-01 14:29
    You need to use good quality lead-free solder. I buy mine from Warton Metals:

    http://www.warton-metals.co.uk/

    It produces nice shiny joints.
  • FranklinFranklin Posts: 4,747
    edited 2011-05-01 17:42
    Leon, which one do you use (alloy)
  • davidsaundersdavidsaunders Posts: 1,559
    edited 2011-05-01 19:02
    I can not speak for any one else, though I seem to eat up tips when using a standard soldering iron with Lead free solders (any of them).
  • LeonLeon Posts: 7,620
    edited 2011-05-01 21:13
    Franklin wrote: »
    Leon, which one do you use (alloy)

    Omega II, type SAC3.
  • Peter KG6LSEPeter KG6LSE Posts: 1,383
    edited 2011-05-01 22:54
    I use both .. lead free was a nightmare years ago as gear was not made to handle the higher temps so stuff broke down more often . ( like tips )
    but with the right gear and a tad bit of learning you can use it with not to much hassle .
    Me I own a Edysin station that I love . I need a new tip every year .. $15 ..

    I still perferr my 2% silver 5 core super lead bulltit stuff for jobs where I need it but I have done the switch .
    but DO NOT MIX the tips . it will eat them so fast .

    Peter
  • WBA ConsultingWBA Consulting Posts: 2,935
    edited 2011-05-02 02:06
    Those rumblings are usually coming from people trying to take their 15 year old weller iron and trying to make the switch. The key ingredient to a successful RoHS/LeadFree soldering process: The Right Equipment. It isn't much different as long as you have the right tools. The main differences between "standard" Tin/Lead and the most used lead free (SAC305) are that SAC305 has higher liquidus temp requiring higher iron temps, typically duller solder joints, lower wetting performance, lower physical strength and requirements for a flux with a higher activation temperature.

    Long story short; continue your research and make an equipment investment so you can migrate without issues.
  • Peter KG6LSEPeter KG6LSE Posts: 1,383
    edited 2011-05-02 04:49
    Oh a quick note

    a RoHS iron is just that , It doesn't necessarily mean its made for lead free work , I Just means the iron is complaint .

    Make shure its made for Lead free work ..
  • LoopyBytelooseLoopyByteloose Posts: 12,537
    edited 2011-05-02 06:14
    Generally, I use leaded solder as it is [1] easier to use - better flow characteristics and [2] with fine pitch surface mount ICs there has been some mention that pure TIN solders actually grows spikes that can short circuit with adjacent pins.

    While I am not fabricating fine pitch IC boards, I may need to occasionally repair something and the fact that tin does create problems has made me wary.

    As far as special soldering irons - it really is all about enough heat and there is nothing special with heat. Just be sure you have a high enough watt rating for the task you are doing.

    Lead solder is likely to be around for a long time even though ROHS is pretty much a commercial requirement for export. And the lead/tin alloy was perfected for good flow. With all the lead acid batteries in use, I really wonder if we are really addressing the core heavy metal problem - batteries, not solder.
  • RDL2004RDL2004 Posts: 2,554
    edited 2011-05-02 06:30
    Facts would seem tend to agree with you Loopy,

    Industrial Consumption of Lead
    leadusechart.png


    http://www.lme.com/lead_industryusage.asp

    The info is from 2007 but is probably useful as a general indicator.
    leadusechart.png
    350 x 125 - 10K
  • LeonLeon Posts: 7,620
    edited 2011-05-02 06:35
    Tin whiskers don't seem to be much of a problem as long as correct assembly techniques are used. Temperature and tip size are the important factors with good equipment.
Sign In or Register to comment.