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TDA7052 Troubleshooting Advice - Choppy Output — Parallax Forums

TDA7052 Troubleshooting Advice - Choppy Output

bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
edited 2011-04-13 15:48 in General Discussion
I'm having troubles with my use of this chip and wanted to see if anyone might have suggestions or insights.

I've built three different boards with the identical audio circuit below and each gives me different results.

Audio Circuit Schematic:
                                     ||
                                 .---||--------.
                                 |   ||        |
                                 |   1uF  ||   |
                                 |--------||---|    7.4V
                                GND       ||   |   |
                                 |       100uF |---||-
                                 |             |   |
                                 o------.      |
                                 |      |      |
               .----------o------o   .--6------1---.
               |          |      |   |             7 NC
           P7o-'    10nF ---     '---3             |
               |         ---         |   TDA7052   4 NC
               |          |       .--2             |
               |          |       |  '--5------8---'
               |          |       |     |      |       __ /|
               |    ___   |    || |     |      '------|  | |
               '---|___|--o----||-'     '-------------|__| |
                    4.7k       ||                         \|
                               1uF                    1W 8ohm

(created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05 www.tech-chat.de)



On the first, and the one the almost works as needed, the audio starts to get choppy only at higher (~75% of maximum) volumes. By choppy I mean as if one were toggling a mute switch as fast as you could with your finger, and with slight pops on each transition. Other than this issue, the audio is clear, loud and works exactly as my breadboard prototype did throughout months of initial testing.

On the second, the choppiness starts at about ~50% volume.

On the third, the chop starts @ ~20% volume, plus the chip gets *very* hot even when no audio signal is being sent to it. The symptom that may strike some of you as a more obvious hint is that while I'm loading code onto the propeller of #3, the same choppy pattern starts as a single slightly-muted pop, then proceeds to continually increase in frequency until the upload process is complete, then the chip is muted once the propeller starts to boot. Even during the code upload, the chip is very hot, much hotter than either of the others get even at high volumes.

Each is running the same code, and using the same power source.

I've replaced all components in the circuit except for the TDA7052, but since I'm seeing this on all three boards, I'm guessing it's not the chip - unless I've semi-fried them from a mistake.

There are other subtle changes (added a few switches with pull-ups) on each of the boards, with each being a separate revision, but I'm not clear how any would effect this circuit.

I'm not very keen on testing yet, but the only obvious detection I could see was that at 0 volume, the voltage at the +/- pins for the speaker was .84V on the "hot" #3 chip, and only ~.01V for the other two.

Any of this sound familiar? Don't be gentle - I'm here to learn.

Comments

  • Mike GreenMike Green Posts: 23,101
    edited 2011-03-25 08:38
    The TDA7052 circuit is pretty simple and the device itself works in a pretty straightforward manner. There's not much that can go wrong. Some thoughts ...

    1) Problems that start at high output levels suggest something wrong with the power source, usually that it's inadequate.

    2) The suggested power supply filter is 220uF. You might try something higher than what you're using (100uF)

    3) The TDA7052, like other ICs, switches pretty fast. You want to keep leads short.

    4) The chip shouldn't get hot with no input. Maybe the chip is oscillating. Again, you want to keep leads short.

    5) If you're using a breadboard, maybe there's something wrong with it ... a short or an open.

    6) Maybe your circuits are wired incorrectly. The picture looks correct, but that's not what's broken.
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-03-25 10:15
    Mike Green wrote: »
    The TDA7052 circuit is pretty simple and the device itself works in a pretty straightforward manner. There's not much that can go wrong. Some thoughts ...

    1) Problems that start at high output levels suggest something wrong with the power source, usually that it's inadequate.

    Do you mean insufficient voltage?
    2) The suggested power supply filter is 220uF. You might try something higher than what you're using (100uF)

    Just tried a 220uF with no discernible change.
    3) The TDA7052, like other ICs, switches pretty fast. You want to keep leads short.

    Alright. What should I consider short? The longest lead for the TDA on my board is just under .5"
    4) The chip shouldn't get hot with no input. Maybe the chip is oscillating. Again, you want to keep leads short.
    Based on feedback from others, and what I've been able to gather about the issue, I think this is most likely the case. Also, I can touch the chip and the chop goes away for ~3-10 seconds.
    5) If you're using a breadboard, maybe there's something wrong with it ... a short or an open.
    I'm on a small pcb at present.
    6) Maybe your circuits are wired incorrectly. The picture looks correct, but that's not what's broken.
    I think it's very likely I have at least something wired incorrectly elsewhere! :)
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-03-25 10:28
    The volume control input on this chip is high-impedeance, configured as a very weak current source. If you leave it floating, as you seem to have done, you could be getting feedback into it, causing the "motor-boating" you observe. If you don't use the volume control feature, this pin should -- at the very least -- be bypassed to ground with a 1uF cap, possibly in parallel with a 1M resistor, as shown in the datasheet (Fig. 7).

    -Phil
  • Mike GreenMike Green Posts: 23,101
    edited 2011-03-25 10:46
    1) "inadequate" refers to how the supply behaves under load. Essentially, when the load (the TDA) attempts to draw more current, the voltage output of the supply drops.

    2) You could try an even higher value. If you have a couple of 220uF on hand, put two or three in parallel and see what happens. It probably won't solve the situation, but it gives you more information.

    3) 0.5" is short enough for most purposes.

    4) Touching the chip does two things. It cools the chip by trying to heat your finger and it increases the capacitance around the chip. The latter suggests that maybe there's a bad connection and the added capacitance helps stabilize things. The 3-10 second delay suggests that maybe the chip heats up again and starts to misbehave.

    5) A PCB avoids the problems of a breadboard.

    6) You may have problems elsewhere in your device, but that wouldn't explain the problems you've presented here.
  • Zap-oZap-o Posts: 452
    edited 2011-03-25 11:09
    Is it me or is the voltage incorrect?

    My data sheet specifies 4.5 to 18V and the schematic up there reads -7.4Volts.

    Perhaps turning the Voltage supply around?
    Pins 3 and 6 should be tied to gnd as well and your drawing does not reflect that.
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-03-25 12:19
    Zap-o wrote: »
    Is it me or is the voltage incorrect?

    My data sheet specifies 4.5 to 18V and the schematic up there reads -7.4Volts.

    Perhaps turning the Voltage supply around?
    Pins 3 and 6 should be tied to gnd as well and your drawing does not reflect that.

    I updated the schematic for clarity.
  • Zap-oZap-o Posts: 452
    edited 2011-03-25 13:14
    In your schematic the battery is still in backwards and the positive side is not connected to anything (it might be implied so forgive me if so). Not sure if you have a meter but check the voltage on pin 1 with respect to pin 6 of the TDA7052, it should be around 4.5 - 18 Volts.
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-03-25 13:31
    Zap-o wrote: »
    In your schematic the battery is still in backwards and the positive side is not connected to anything (it might be implied so forgive me if so). Not sure if you have a meter but check the voltage on pin 1 with respect to pin 6 of the TDA7052, it should be around 4.5 - 18 Volts.

    The symbol is just reversed. Vin is +7.4V. Thanks.
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-03-25 13:42
    Brad,

    Have you addressed the floating volume control input (pin 4) issue yet? 'Just wondering if that's part of the problem.

    -Phil
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-03-25 14:22
    Brad,

    Have you addressed the floating volume control input (pin 4) issue yet? 'Just wondering if that's part of the problem.

    -Phil

    Just tested with a 1uF from pin 4 to ground and, despite a bit of new noise in the signal, the "motor-boating" is completely gone. I also just discovered that the reason I got away with an unconnected pin 4 throughout my testing is that the 8-DIP version I used on the breadboard doesn't have the DC volume control on pin 4.

    I guess eventually I'll learn to read a data sheet thoroughly and not make assumptions on any specs that aren't immediately clear to me.

    I *really* appreciate everyone's time.

    -bh
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-03-25 18:58
    Alright, my goal now is to fully understand the purpose of coupling the volume pin to ground, and specifically doing such with a 1MOhm in parallel.

    What I hear now in the audio is a slight muting of the sounds at the time when their inherent sample volume would be the loudest. It seems like that DC volume control is giving in a bit at the peak of the signal and the result is a temporary decrease in gain - then, when the peak passes, the gain boosts back up to where it was originally.

    I currently only have the volume pin coupled with the 1uF - could this gain fluctuation be because I'm not using the parallel resistor?

    The volume pin is a high-impedance, low current source with a control scale of mute @ V < .3 and max @ V > 2. This seems like in order to facilitate the max V of 2, then as little resistance as possible would be necessary. That conceptually correct? If so, how does introducing a big resistor somehow "tie" the V up to a value necessary for max gain?

    What aspect am I missing?
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-03-25 23:00
    The volume control is a voltage input. The current source is merely a convenience for supplying current to a resistive load. A capacitive bypass provides a lower-impedance source to the pin. You could use a voltage divider, in addition, to provide a low-impedance voltage source. I would still recommend the capacitive bypass, although a lower capacitance would probably be okay.

    -Phil
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-03-26 04:52
    Wow, I'm trying to conceptualize this, and struggling. I'm still not clear how an input pin could be tied high by coupling it to ground. The goal, if I understand correctly, is to peg the volume at max gain - 1.5V. Could I just drive the volume control with a propeller pin, or is there an easier way?

    (which you probably have mentioned above, but I've yet to grasp).

    Thanks for sticking with me...
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-03-26 09:28
    I'm still not clear how an input pin could be tied high by coupling it to ground.
    The volume control pin, in addition to being voltage sensitive, is a weak current source with about a 1.1V excitation. By connecting it with a cap to ground, the current source charges the cap to 1.1V which is high enough to provide a 30 dB gain, according to the datasheet. The capacitor provides a low AC impedance, which prevents the feedback that was bugging you before.

    You could control it by connecting a Prop pin. That way, it would operate at either full volume or muted. Replace the cap with 0.1uF, and add a 4.7K pulldown resistor. Drive the pin from the Prop via a 3.3K series resistor.

    -Phil
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-03-26 18:02
    You could control it by connecting a Prop pin. That way, it would operate at either full volume or muted. Replace the cap with 0.1uF, and add a 4.7K pulldown resistor. Drive the pin from the Prop via a 3.3K series resistor.

    -Phil

    Like this?
                              .---- P5
                              |
                             .-.
                             | |3.3k
       .------------------.  | |
       |                  |  '-'   .1uF
       |      TDA7052A    |   |     ||
       |                  4---o-----||-------.
       |                  |   |     ||       |
       '------------------'   |              |
                              |     ___      |
                              '----|___|-----|
                                   4.7k     ===
                                            GND
    
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-03-26 18:36
    Yes, like that..

    -Phil
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-03-26 18:53
    .1uF need to be polarized?
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-03-26 18:59
    No. A ceramic cap will work fine.

    -Phil
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-04-12 20:03
    Got my revised pcb today, with the audio circuit adapted to the schematic above, and the chip appears to still be oscillating as initially described.

    The DC volume control, pin 4, is now driven by a prop pin and that feature works well, but after about 20 seconds of audio the jitter returns. :(
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-04-12 20:28
    bradharper wrote:
    The DC volume control, pin 4, is now driven by a prop pin and that feature works well, but after about 20 seconds of audio the jitter returns.
    Can you describe the driving circuit? Is it just a Prop pin going into pin 4, or is there more to it? Are you certain that the Prop pin that's doing the driving isn't tristating somehow?

    -Phil
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-04-12 21:01
    Prop Pin 6 --> 3.3K --> TDA Pin 4, with Pin 4 also connected to ground with a .1uF and 4.7k pull-down.

    Also, the gain seems to be much higher now than ever before - good bit noisier too. Sounds to me like the "floating gain" I was getting away with earlier was lower. Like before, if I keep the volume levels low, now below about 20% the audio is fine, but as soon as I increase above a certain threshold, the volume will suddenly fade slightly and start motor-boating - slowly at first, then steadily increasing in frequency.

    I definitely have to get the chop resolved, but I must say, being able to mute the chip with pin 4 was worth a board revision. No pops, clicks or hiss at all now when I need silence.
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-04-12 21:12
    The Prop and the amp do share a common ground, right? ('Grasping at straws here. )

    -Phil
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-04-13 05:35
    The Prop and the amp do share a common ground, right? ('Grasping at straws here. )

    Yes.

    Just to recap the difference from successful experimentation before - when the issue was resolved earlier, it was using a polarized 1uF from pin 4 to GND and no parallel resistor, currently using a ceramic 1uF and the 4.7k.

    Could the amplitude of my input signal be a problem? Maybe it's been too hot all along, but the floating pin 4 allowed me to get away with it a bit. (grasping at straws with much less expertise)
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-04-13 09:17
    Are you sure your speaker is 8 ohms and not 3.2 or 4? If so, are you using the "A" version of the chip and not the "AT" version, which is rated for 16 ohm loads. If the chip is getting hot, that means it's overloaded, and could be cutting out from that. What happens if you reduce the supply voltage to, say, 6V? You can also reduce the gain by modifying the divider on pin 4.

    -Phil
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-04-13 09:39
    Speaker is spec'd 1W @ 8ohm. However... the chip is labeled DA7052A, but the digikey part # is 568-1139-1-ND, the AT, rated @ 550mW x 1 @ 16 Ohm.

    Looks like the only one rated @ 8ohms is the 8-DIP version. So, basically, I'm sizzling the chip?

    Curious to me that NXP offer two packages, but @ different specs...
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-04-13 10:00
    bradharper wrote:
    So, basically, I'm sizzling the chip?
    It's starting to look that way. :( You could drive two 8-ohm speakers in series (being careful with polarity so the audio phases don't cancel), or just replace what you've got with a 16-ohm speaker.

    -Phil
  • bradharperbradharper Posts: 64
    edited 2011-04-13 10:10
    Ok, pardon a few basic electrical questions, but wouldn't 550mW @ 16ohm translate to 1.1W @ 8ohm? Is the problem that the chip can't handle that output? I'm pretty tightly restricted to 8ohm speakers... could I hack in an 8ohm series resistor?
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2011-04-13 10:43
    The power ratings you see in the datasheet derive from a supply voltage of 6V, where Power = VRMS2 / RSPKR. You'd have to increase the voltage on the AT version to get more power to a 16-ohm speaker. That said, you could certainly add an 8-ohm series resistor to the speaker circuit. You need to make sure it's rated for the power it will be dissipating, and the speaker volume will be reduced quite a bit.

    -Phil
  • Invent-O-DocInvent-O-Doc Posts: 768
    edited 2011-04-13 15:48
    This thread had good learning value. Thanks everyone.
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