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Computer won't communicate with BS1 — Parallax Forums

Computer won't communicate with BS1

orrinbareorrinbare Posts: 32
edited 2011-03-20 18:21 in BASIC Stamp
I am using a bs1 module with the super carrier board. i have a usb to serial adapter that i used on my boe bot. just to check the cable and the board, i tried it with the boe bot itself AND putting the bs2 module in the super carrier. both times it communicated successfully. but when i put the bs1 in the board (yes i put it in the right direction and NO, the bs2 was not in at the same time), it says scanning... then says no basic stamp found, please help, another bs2 module is a little more expensive than i want to use for this project. yes i also switch the little things at the top to "bs1" and "1.0" still nothing. is there anything special about the bs1 where it can't or won't use the usb connector? i hope not, my laptop doesn't have a serial port

Comments

  • PJAllenPJAllen Banned Posts: 5,065
    edited 2011-03-18 21:16
    To program a BS1, you have to get its special programming adapter --
    http://www.parallax.com/StoreSearchResults/tabid/768/txtSearch/BS1/List/0/SortField/4/ProductID/44/Default.aspx

    ** you can buy that or make your own if you have the parts for it (the schematic is made available) **

    PE -- attached pic w/ red-line indicating BS1 programming header
    BS1seradapsupcarbd.JPG
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  • orrinbareorrinbare Posts: 32
    edited 2011-03-19 23:10
    Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, THAT'S why. makes sense. this is for the chicken coop (coupe, i can't remember how you spelled it). ahem, chicken house :P anyways, i'm used to programing the bs2, i understand there are some differences in the programming itself other than the hardware, i'm wondering would it just be worth it to get a new bs2 module so i don't have to remember the differences between the two. what is your opinion on this. also, i havn't looked a whole lot yet for the schematic, i'm guessing parallax wouldn't post it on here though because that would cut into their sales right? i'll look for it next time i work on this project, if u just happen to know a link for it i'd appreciate it, but don't go to any trouble for it. as far as parts, i have resistors, wires, and i a couple capacitors of some type, not sure. pretty much whatever came with the boe-bot, i have it
  • PJAllenPJAllen Banned Posts: 5,065
    edited 2011-03-20 08:28
    orrinbare posted, "...i havn't looked a whole lot yet for the schematic, i'm guessing parallax wouldn't post it on here though because that would cut into their sales right?"

    That's pretty cynical, especially for not having "looked a whole lot yet." At the link I posted there is a "hotlink" right after 'Downloads & Resources' -- http://www.parallax.com/tabid/391/Default.aspx
    About the only thing that Parallax does not make available to the public is the Interpreter/s that they put into the BS1 and BS2 PICs, everything else is pretty much up for grabs.

    As to whether you ought to get a BS2 -- you know you best. Be that as it may, you'll get a lot more advice about a BS2. There are still some BS1 devotees out there (erco), but one might say they're a vanishing breed.

    I figure that you'll need to buy (or find, whatever) more components in the future.

    N.B. - If you ever see a chicken in a coupe then thing is in a car. This is our new chicken coupe. As you can see, it's a wrecked Camaro we got at the salvage yard...
  • orrinbareorrinbare Posts: 32
    edited 2011-03-20 09:48
    yeah i see the schematic and given a little time i'm sure i could build it, but for 5 bucks i'll just buy it, i had to get some other things from here anyways so the shipping will cover all of it. If the bs2 wasn't so much more i would just go with that one instead just to save time, and like you said the bs2 will have more advice, which is something i may need. I keep seeing these OEM versions of the bs2, if i understand correctly its still the bs2, but instead of having a nice little socket to put it in, you put it in your breadboard, but then you have to run traces to and from it to you other parts correct? i really like the price of these, i just don't know how much work is involved with it. have you used these before?
  • PJAllenPJAllen Banned Posts: 5,065
    edited 2011-03-20 10:08
    Yes, I have several OEMs in thus and sundry.
    It's a kit, so you have to stuff the board and solder the components. If you haven't any competency in that regard then it wouldn't be the place to start.
    It works/programs like any other BS2 Stamp.
    All the connections, excepting the programming connector (the 9_pin D-Sub), are through SIP pins (provided). It too can be stuffed into a breadboard, with some finesse and patience. You run wires to it just like a Stamp; it's in a different form, that's all.

    Proceed with your programming using LEDs (with resistors) to simulate your field outputs and rig up some switches to simulate your field inputs. You can find examples in PBASIC (part of the Stamp IDE / programming suite.)
    In the final version, you'll have to get hold of some terminal strips and that like to facilitate all your field (real world) wiring, etc.

    It won't be perfect from the start, perfect it along the way.
  • Mike GreenMike Green Posts: 23,101
    edited 2011-03-20 10:13
    If you haven't looked at the specs for the BS1 vs. the BS2, do so. You'll see that the BS1 is slower, has fewer I/O pins, less memory, and only a few simple statements compared to the BS2. Even so, it can be very useful for simple tasks. EFX-TEK's Prop-1 controller uses the OEM version and I've used that to control a dehumidifier pump to empty out a dehumidifier tank on a timed basis. It's essentially a BS1 with a Darlington array to drive relays, solenoids, and other moderate (1/2A) current loads.

    The OEM board is just a reference design for the chip set. The intent is for you to design the chips into your own board. On the other hand, you can use the OEM kit as a cheaper kit form of the BS1 or BS2.
  • PJAllenPJAllen Banned Posts: 5,065
    edited 2011-03-20 10:16
    [This is not a "gotcha", but there is only the BS1-OEM IC nowadays; the BS1-OEM kit is no longer available.]
  • PJAllenPJAllen Banned Posts: 5,065
    edited 2011-03-20 10:40
    Here's a pic of a BS2-OEM in a box, it's been running 24/7 in conjunction with a GPS for >5 years.
    (Looks like I ought to blow it out every once in a while.)

    As you may note, I "love" (love) Molex C-Grid connectors.
    One can solder wires/leads right to the board instead of using the SIP strip.
    There are many options, everyone has to find his own way in this regard.
    IMG_1222.jpg
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  • orrinbareorrinbare Posts: 32
    edited 2011-03-20 18:21
    well, if i just had a breadboard i'd consider the oem bs2 since they're so cheap. and i may make a new version later with it. but i already have the carrier board and the bs1 and now thanks to PJ i can program it haha. oh and as far as soldering, i'm pretty decent at it. i've built several of those kits that give u the board and all the pieces and basically show u how to build it. this is my first project for actually designing my own soldered circuit. as far as that goes i've got the circuit prototyped on my boe bots board at the moment and it works ok, i'm just having issues with controlling the motor. I think my problem is i need a dpdt relay instead of a spdt. i need to have an input signal to switch between having the motor go up or down and another to just supply power.
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