hi tom in maryland, this is herm from maryland....any toaster oven will do just use the lower heaters...it works...i even do it in a electric skillet....pre-heat to 100F...then full bore to the highest setting until you see the paste get shiny...then start dropping the temp control every 100F degrees at 30 second intervals...it works too....skillet works better for smd's...more temp control
I know that this thread is probably pretty stale, but I wanted to say thanks to tonyp, and ask a question. I joined the forums just to express my gratitude!
I just did my first attempt using tonyp's method, and it worked perfectly with an 0603 resistor. I barely touched the pad with paste, but it was enough.
Tony, if you're out there - first, a million thanks for your postings and the video. It was completely spot-on for me!
Question, tho: what "toast" setting do you use? I used the default, with is "4", and it turned off just as the solder paste had melted. Like, perfect timing.
Thanks, I use the defaults too and it turns out to be perfect in timing.
The 5 minute re-heat button I always let go to the end and I press toast right way (or at least within 6 seconds)
The 4 minute default toast is nearly perfect too, but I like to watch the end and after I see that the last paste have melted
I wait max another 6 seconds and shut it off.
Toaster oven remember if you changed the toast timing and this will now be the new default so keep an eye out.
Neat thread. I like the potential for saving energy by reflowing solder and cooking your dinner in the same oven at the same time. The ultimate in multitasking for the busy hobbyist!
I had checked into this a couple of months ago. I'm not certain, but I think it was just a model change-over by Black & Decker. They probably cheapified it a bit and raised the price by $10. I ended up buying a TR0480BS on clearance at the local Kroger store for $20. It has 2 IR tubes, upper and lower, but is only 1200 watts with manual controls and timer. I haven't soldered anything in it yet, but it cooks food really nicely.
Neat thread. I like the potential for saving energy by reflowing solder and cooking your dinner in the same oven at the same time. ....
Reminds me of those times I need to run the autoclave before sunrise. I can get breakfast and sterile petri dishes all out of the same foil wrapper.
On similar threads, forum gods have mentioned that convection ovens might be the best way to go, but tonyp12 seems to be getting some good results that others have replicated with happiness. Comments?
BETA-eSTORE order value in USD 139.90
BETA-eSTORE shipping cost in USD 12.80
Total amount in USD 152.70
** I tried to order one and sent the company a email (Sept 10, 2012) and was told that they are out of stock and don't have a date yet for when they will receive stock.
From the company
" Dear Bob,
Our reflow oven is currently out of stock and there is no future date at present when
this is back in stock."
That link was for your shopping basket. For the rest of us, nothing shows, since we don't possess your session cookie. Can you post a link to the actual product, please?
I already have a convection toaster oven that I have used for reflowing but it has been a while and this is going to be a handy reference to brush up before doing it again.
@ Phil, sorry about that. I corrected the link in my post as well and added a note from the company indicating that they had no stock at this time. I'll update the Forum when the do let me know they have stock.
I hope this is a good place to document my toaster-oven conversion details.
I bought an "MB3000 Mini Oven" from ALDI here in the U.K. for £15 or £20 or similar. Now this device is basically a sandwich toaster with top element and bottom element.
I took it apart and cut some holes to remount both elements at the top, spaced apart to provide top-side heating evenly covering the whole area. The unit
is constructed from the thinnest steel and aluminium panels they could get away with which meant lots of horribly sharp edges inside, but here's some
pics of the conversion and end result:
All my drill bits only cut round holes so I bodged it rather, but the unit is earthed at least(!) and I didn't need to lengthen any of the existing heat-proof wires.
The more recent bit of building I did was a stencil frame of my own design inspired by video of the Elektor stencil frame (which they don't seem to stock
any more):
The idea is to mount the board holder and the frame onto a steel sheet using appropriate disc magnets so they are held firmly but can be aligned by sliding.
Comments
I know that this thread is probably pretty stale, but I wanted to say thanks to tonyp, and ask a question. I joined the forums just to express my gratitude!
I just did my first attempt using tonyp's method, and it worked perfectly with an 0603 resistor. I barely touched the pad with paste, but it was enough.
Tony, if you're out there - first, a million thanks for your postings and the video. It was completely spot-on for me!
Question, tho: what "toast" setting do you use? I used the default, with is "4", and it turned off just as the solder paste had melted. Like, perfect timing.
The 5 minute re-heat button I always let go to the end and I press toast right way (or at least within 6 seconds)
The 4 minute default toast is nearly perfect too, but I like to watch the end and after I see that the last paste have melted
I wait max another 6 seconds and shut it off.
Toaster oven remember if you changed the toast timing and this will now be the new default so keep an eye out.
They still have them for sale (add a $12 item and get free shipping)
http://www.orangeonions.com/product/FC150R/Black-Decker-Infrawave-Speed-Oven-Stainless.html
or ebay:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/190557876669?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y
And don't use it for food later (lead and other heavymetals)
Tonyp, (Or to anyone who might want to comment on this),
the link you provided still points to an oven but is it the same oven you were using over a year ago? (EDIT: oh, I see it's out of stock now.)
When I search that same site for "Infrawave," I get only the following...
http://www.orangeonions.com/product/FC300/Black-Decker-InfraWave-Countertop-Oven.html
Any chance this will work the same way as your system?
Reminds me of numerous articles showing how to cook food on your car's engine as you drive around: http://www.wikihow.com/Cook-Food-on-Your-Car%27s-Engine
Reminds me of those times I need to run the autoclave before sunrise. I can get breakfast and sterile petri dishes all out of the same foil wrapper.
On similar threads, forum gods have mentioned that convection ovens might be the best way to go, but tonyp12 seems to be getting some good results that others have replicated with happiness. Comments?
http://www.beta-estore.com/rkus/order_product_details.html?wg=1&p=13
1 Large Beta-Reflow-Kit 139.90
BETA-eSTORE order value in USD 139.90
BETA-eSTORE shipping cost in USD 12.80
Total amount in USD 152.70
** I tried to order one and sent the company a email (Sept 10, 2012) and was told that they are out of stock and don't have a date yet for when they will receive stock.
From the company
" Dear Bob,
Our reflow oven is currently out of stock and there is no future date at present when
this is back in stock."
That link was for your shopping basket. For the rest of us, nothing shows, since we don't possess your session cookie. Can you post a link to the actual product, please?
Thanks,
-Phil
Me too!
I already have a convection toaster oven that I have used for reflowing but it has been a while and this is going to be a handy reference to brush up before doing it again.
Large Beta-Reflow-Kit at www.beta-estore.com
thanks! for adding the correct link.
@ Phil, sorry about that. I corrected the link in my post as well and added a note from the company indicating that they had no stock at this time. I'll update the Forum when the do let me know they have stock.
I knew it was too good to be true LOL
I bought an "MB3000 Mini Oven" from ALDI here in the U.K. for £15 or £20 or similar. Now this device is basically a sandwich toaster with top element and bottom element.
I took it apart and cut some holes to remount both elements at the top, spaced apart to provide top-side heating evenly covering the whole area. The unit
is constructed from the thinnest steel and aluminium panels they could get away with which meant lots of horribly sharp edges inside, but here's some
pics of the conversion and end result:
All my drill bits only cut round holes so I bodged it rather, but the unit is earthed at least(!) and I didn't need to lengthen any of the existing heat-proof wires.
The more recent bit of building I did was a stencil frame of my own design inspired by video of the Elektor stencil frame (which they don't seem to stock
any more):
The idea is to mount the board holder and the frame onto a steel sheet using appropriate disc magnets so they are held firmly but can be aligned by sliding.