NES Gamepad Connectors
PJAllen
BannedPosts: 5,065
I wanted to do some experimenting with the NES gamepads, so I bought some of the connectors (32360.) I hate cutting stuff up (hacking cords, etc) unnecessarily.
I mounted one in a small project box and soldered some wires to the pins. The sparing heat from my soldering loosened the pins in the socket, they'd spin and easily pushed in/out (offering little or no resistance/friction.) With a "board mount" this would not be a concern, but that's not the case in my "panel mount" situation.
[I'm not knocking the product, I'm just telling it like it is.]
I flowed some "5-minute" (non-conductive) epoxy over the pins and wires to keep all in place. Of course it's beyond re-work afterward, so get your soldering right the first time.
The buttons are A-OK, but it's not impossible to get unintended combinations with the directional rocker (U+R, or U+L, or D+L, or D+R.) That's nothing to do with the connector, results likely vary with the quality of the gamepad/knock-off used.
I mounted one in a small project box and soldered some wires to the pins. The sparing heat from my soldering loosened the pins in the socket, they'd spin and easily pushed in/out (offering little or no resistance/friction.) With a "board mount" this would not be a concern, but that's not the case in my "panel mount" situation.
[I'm not knocking the product, I'm just telling it like it is.]
I flowed some "5-minute" (non-conductive) epoxy over the pins and wires to keep all in place. Of course it's beyond re-work afterward, so get your soldering right the first time.
The buttons are A-OK, but it's not impossible to get unintended combinations with the directional rocker (U+R, or U+L, or D+L, or D+R.) That's nothing to do with the connector, results likely vary with the quality of the gamepad/knock-off used.