I found the instructions for Gregs Wade guidler lacking... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17030
It seems I need a short 8mm shaft for the idler bearing and this is just forced into the plastic.
I have roughly assembled the frame (using my 6mm threaded rods and bars that I had for my own prototype frame I built over a year ago - frame only).
What I have decided to do is build the Prusa V2 and use that to print my simpler/cheaper/smaller version. Also during this process I will get the Propeller board(s) working.
I do have a question...
I am thinking because the heated bed uses a lot of current, that it may be better to have this as a completely separate pcb with a tiny micro to control the heated bed and just use a 2 wire serial to the main processor to set the temp, or it could be completely self-standing. Any thoughts? BTW the prop pcb will still be able to control this as it will have 2 mosfet ccts.
Here are pics of the parts including the Hyena hobed bolt and the GT2 belts and pulleys purchased from www.create3D.com.au
My nozzle is 0.35mm. They seen to have trouble getting the hole exactly straight, so the jet of plastic squirts out on a slight angle. 3mm filament / 0.5mm hole may be more reliable in that regard.
Crossover shouldn't be hard - there are 3 components (teflon barrel, brass barrel, nozzle) that would need to change. I am thinking of just adding a whole second X/Z/E arrangment for 3mm for minimum changeover.
Regarding the heated bed switch, you can do it whichever way you like - there are advantages either way. The 11 amp polyswitch used to protect the bed is bigger than many of your PCBs, and it does get hot during operation. You don't need a heated bed for PLA printing, which is the recommended way to start.
I was thinking of trying without the heated bed first. From what I can tell, if the build is smaller then a heated bed is less of a requirement. I am not planning on a heated bed on my micro version.
Wow that looks great! I don't have the lower Z stabilizers on mine, yours looks easier to true.
One thing I found: To get the rig square and true, use a piece of granite counter top, (like a cut out for a sink) or a thick mirror to build upon. Turns out all my tables and desk tops were slightly off, and building on a mirror ensure the build space as exactly flat. Then I found a three quarter inch thick granite counter top cut out, and the thing has stayed pretty much perfect. I had no issue with prints coming out skewed. My most recent find is a cut out an inch and a half thick granite, but thats way too heavy to drag into the shop.
My nozzle is 0.35mm. They seen to have trouble getting the hole exactly straight, so the jet of plastic squirts out on a slight angle. 3mm filament / 0.5mm hole may be more reliable in that regard. .
My .5 mmm nozzle started out squirting straight down, but now squirts a bit to one side. Maybe the solid layers on the bottom were getting over filled when I first stated printing. It doesn't make too much difference as its consistent. Probably should get a new nozzle and recalibrate though.
I have ordered some 3digit 7seg LEDs to display the temperature. I will use an ATTiny44A to drive the leds, and 1 pin as an input to receive the temperature (digits) command. Its simpler and almost as cheap as using serial to parallel chips. I am thinking the command will be a series of pulses 1:2 for a "1" and 2:1 for a "0". This way, the timing doesn't matter on the tiny end. So its just a semi-serial display.
Second build is a Wallace http://reprap.org/wiki/Wallace based on the printrbot. We're using the same electronics and hot end as the Prusa in first build.
The builder is considering setting up kits for printed parts and rods+fasteners. Buyer would have to order separately motors, electronics, hot end, wires, connectors.
prof: What software are you using on your electronics? Do you think this is the best version to prepare for translation/rewrite for a propeller version?
Prof. B. - Do you have any ideas on the cost for the kit and then the added costs for the other components? If I want to be interested, I need to start saving my pennies. If it weren't for time and money, I'd be doin pretty good!
prof: What software are you using on your electronics? Do you think this is the best version to prepare for translation/rewrite for a propeller version?
I have rev 1.3a and everything works, so that is what I'm planning to use as my baseline. This is also what the padawan is using for the Wallace build. Mine was $99USD, with no drivers or connectors. The kid purchased $85 USD for board + connectors, and later found board+drivers for $89, unfortunately I don't have links and he didn't write up his notes yet.
Sal is waiting on his printrbot, so he's going to use whatever comes with that as his baseline. I don't know what all the rest of the folks are using, but we should have several data points.
Costs for the electronics, 5 motors, and four driver boards are pretty fixed, but I think the total cost for somebody with a printer to make one (Wallace, that is) is around (under?) $300. When we get our notes finished, I plan to make a kit of just the printed parts, the cut rods, and all the fasteners; if you buy the other parts direct you save from having to pay double shipping. The price should be materials + shipping + X%. I will have a small mark up X%. Probably like 10% so the total cost should be under $100 for the kit of printed parts, rods and fasteners.
The hot end is a different story, this still seems to be the tough bit if you haven't done it before. If you make one, you screw something up, if you make ten, you can make nine perfect ones and have spares to fix the first one. But I don't know how many folks would pay some braino to make an extruder hot end for them.
Hello!
Prof. Braino, thanks a lot for the initiative of this thread.
I studied mechanics and I have some experience in project several years.
My interest in microcontrollers like BasicStamp and of course Propeller start with the the personal need/curiosity to control equipment. My skills to program are very basic but I can use when the objects are well documented. I chose to learn spin instead of C because Propeller is more powerful than Arduino and more comprehensive, I think.
I bought a LongBoatPrusa (http://reprap.org/wiki/LongboatPrusa), due to interest to learn make CNC machines, from the beginning I look for controlling it with Propeller but my programming skills are very weak! When I received it I saw a lot of problems! :P After several months working some time on that, and stop a lot for thinking and getting information, for no mistakes, I finally get it done! I already print acceptable in PLA, but not have done all the calibrations, only the more important, temperature, velocity, a good first layer, layer height. I use Sprinter and Pronterface in W7.
My objective at this moment is to understand the best way to develop the spin code to CNC machines. How I pretend do this:
_ Create the gcode in the different programs;
_ Send the gcode by serial, in first place, and/or read in a SD card, later;
_ The propeller will read instruction by instruction from the gcode while the CNC is doing the work ;
What I know that is in the table, at this time I havn´t tried, I think I will need the pololu´s step drivers A4983/A4988 (someone have other suggestion?), and 3 or 4 stepper motors (at least in the beginning): (I´m wrong???)
Please I need help to see the best way to do this spin code!!
All questions, opinions and suggestions are welcome!
AS
(Sorry me English but I´m Portuguese)
AS: Welcome. Your English is great - I can tell it is not your native language, but it's really quite good.
Most likely (there are other alternatives) you will require Pololu steppers or equivalent (A4988 are better because they have better inbuilt protection, otherwise they are the same as A498). I have boards ready to take A4982/A4984 which also have the protection but are in the larger TSOP28 package but a lack of time has prevented me from testing them. I have a carrier board to take 4 of them (or pololus) that will interface to the prop. I have a mosfet board waiting to be tested as well (for extruder and heated bed). And of course a prop board too.
I have a Prusa V2 assembled except for tightening the screws. The Prusa requires 5 steppers, but only 4 drivers because the two Z steppers are in parallel. I have these. But as yet, I have not purchased the extruder (heater section), nor the heated bed. In fact I am going to try without the heated bed. I have the Gregs Wade idler section and the Hyena hobbed bolt. I am still unsure whether to start with 3mm or 1.75mm and whether PLA or ABS.
Most likely I will buy an ATMega board to connect to my electronics boards in the first instance to get it running sucessfuly before coding the propeller.
I think you are going to be a good addition to this project. You machine is very similar to mine, I'm still using sanguinololu v1.3a with whatever processor is on it. I also have sprinter and pronterface for the time being.
Everything cluso said.
SPIN is a good choice when using the prop. My team uses propforth (forth) which is a little different but the basic algorithms are the same, so we can share.
We plan to begin implementing drop in replacements using the prop for the various parts of the tool chain, starting with the sanguinololu board and sprinter firmware. Sal Sanci, the architect of propforth, is expecting to get his printrbot shortly (he ordered late), and will begin examining the code. We will start in on implementing a firmware for a prop board, if you wish you can just use or help develop that. Since the prop code is to be treated as firmware, it should not matter what language it is written in. Of course, If you wish to do it in spin for the joy of it, we will all help with that too. If I could possibly interest you in looking at propforth, I would suggest that propforth is a very good fit for this type of application.
We are looking at the various options for our prop CNC solution(s). Cluso's drivers look good, Peter Jakacki's fancy L640 steppers look really cool.
Other members have suggested much more powerful and expensive solutions but many of those seem overkill for this application.
I have a4988 drivers on my machine, I think these come with printer bot, so we will likely start there, and include other parts as they become available.
The goal is to be compatible with much of the existing tool chains as possible, so we might start with skeinforge/pronterface but these are scripts and can be slow. We'll see what comes about as that phase gets going.
Also, your English is fine, I'm from Chicago so I'm used to much worse, from the locals.
In my opinion the diameter of filament is not important, is just a mechanical issue, we just have to adjust in calibration, print in PLA is easier and the working temperature is lower. I think PLA is better in the beginning.
My LongBoat Prusa is similar, 5 steppers with 4 drivers, in first place I connected in parallel the Z steppers but I read that is better in series, see how I have connect: http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapPro_Huxley_wiring, and it´s working fine (in series)! (If you have other point of view please tell)
To test X,Y,Z movements is enough 4 motors maybe 3 for a different printer (only 1 to Z).
I have everything working good with the ATMega board!
At this moment I want made a CNC machine with a spindle and with the possibility to work with PLA and ABS.
At this point I agree completely with you, is better start with the A4988 drivers! And for a good spindle AC? (any ideas)
I thought in made GCode with the different tool chains, and send the GCode by serial to propeller with LabView for example (if anybody have other suggestion, please tell), maybe simplify the spin code with that. (I thought in this solution because I don´t know how the tool chains send it to ATMega. Maybe like rosco-pc-propmaker?)
If you print 4 pairs you have a simple filament spool feeder that can be easily retrofitted to a Prusa (and possibly other repraps) without unbolting anything...
Got to grips with OpenSCAD. What fun, anything is suddenly possible.
Here is a note I posted on my beginners book on the forum, in response to a question.
It may be of interest to 3D printer community
=========
The book is still is very much in the works and getting close to done. I am into the projects now.
I decided to take a break from the writing (it was getting me burned out) and design and build a state of the art, larger format 3D printer for the hobbyists.
Its nominal build size is 12 by 12 by 8 inches and it will be of interest to the group interesting in writing the software for a Prop based 3D printer.
It takes only a 7/16 inch (11 mm) wrench to assemble and dis-assemble the entire printer! Its easy and requires minimal skill.
Overall dimensions about 18 by 18 by 28 inches. So its a big table top machine.
Very smooth operation. It has almost 50 ball bearings in it! Everything is on bearings for a very smooth and easy action.
It is almost done and when it is I will post pictures on the discussion forum for the above software effort.
Copies of the printer will be available to interested parties without the processor board but with motors (Nema 34) and optical limit switches in place.
I am hoping to keep the cost to under $1000.00 for a semi assemble kit.
Semi assembled because otherwise it would be too large to ship inexpensively. It would take a huge box.
H
============
I will post detailed pictures of the finished unit within two weeks. It is almost done.
Harprit
I know I've been quiet on this forum for a bit, but I've been working heavily on two projects... one is prop based which I can't reveal just yet and the other is a 3D printer that I call the "Ultra-Bot"... it's not prop based, but hopefully someday it will be.
It's based loosly on the MakerBot Cupcake, however, as you can see, it is a complete redesign. The build area is much larger, has higher quality electronics (and therefore prints), is much faster and most of all, it just looks better.
I'd love to use one of these as a basis for a forum developed solution to a prop based 3d printer.
And here is a video of it doing a "dry run" without extruding plastic. You can see how fast it is:
Here are the pictures I promised
I am adding many more pictures at encodergeek.com. It will be in progress, next day or two.
Major Features:
Travel 11 by 14 by 8 inches
XY resolution 0.0083 inches per step. Z finer than 0.0005 inches.
Nema 34 motors with 180 steps per rev, 36 inch cables.
Table 12 by 12 inches
Machine is about 28 by 24 by 18 inches overall.
Easy to modify aluminum construction. Steel rails 1/2 inch in diameter. Very stiff
Ball bearings throughout and each and every point of motion. Very smooth
Needs only one 7/16 inch (or 11 mm) wrench to assemble or take apart
Shipped partially assembled or as a kit. Goes together fast and easy. Put it in a bag and take it home.
Everything is easy to adjust.
No hot end/extruder provided. Can accommodate two extruders on carriage for two color printing.
No controller or other electronics provided (except stops)
Motors and optical stops provided on all three axes.
I am now in the process of making the first 10 units. These will be available to first comers.
Price $750.00 includes shipping within 48 lower states via UPS.
Send me $100.000 refundable to get in line. Pay harprit.sandhu@gmail.com via paypal.
I estimate it will take me about a month to make the 10 units.
Then I will adjust the price to reflect the real cost as it was found for the first 10 units (and I may decide it not worth it!)
You can call me at 217-359-6751 with questions and discussions but the forum is the preferred way so all can see what we are talking about.
A few weeks ago, I got the H1.1 Kit from SeeMeCNC, without any electronics, hoping to run it with a propeller. Before I started converting the C to SPIN, I decided to check to see if anyone else has done anything similar. As I found, many people here are working on the same thing, but as far as I can tell, no one has shared what they have yet, so I decided to start converting. Of course, I looked for shortcuts, and found something way better than what I was expecting: PropellerGCC. It's a C/C++ compiler for the propeller, so just changing some specific commands ( Pin Specific) with a find and replace should give me Firmware written for the Arduino on the prop. Does anyone see any problems with this, Legal or Otherwise? Granted, I will still have to develop a board, but that isn't that hard.
... so just changing some specific commands ( Pin Specific) with a find and replace should give me Firmware written for the Arduino on the prop. Does anyone see any problems with this, Legal or Otherwise?
There might be a couple issues to solve based on the prop architecture being different, but no show stoppers. Shouldn't be any legal issues that I can see, being open source and all.
Peter has been doing some stuff with motor control using Tachyon forth and his new stepper drivers.
Keep uus posted on your progress and any issues you encounter.
My project is just finishing our operating system/kernel, so we should be able to start in on some firmware shortly. Sal's Printrbot (from the kickstarter project) has finally shipped, so he'll has a known baseline to compare against. A usable firmware is still some months off, we tend to be slow and methodical.
Sal just received his Printrbot (from that Kickstarter project from like forever ago). Apparently the Pony Express had trouble crossing the frontier into Canada.
Any-who, he's built it, its printing, and he's already decided the design could bear some improvement. Which was the whole point of the opensource, kickstarter thing, so things are working as planned.
Once he is satisfied he has a baseline established, he will start coding propfirmware in forth to replace the Sanguinololu/RAMPS hardware.
Sal is using OpenSCAD and SLICER, I don't know if he is using MARLIN for the ardunio firmware or not. Once we start moving on a forth firmware, I will open a new thread and close this one off.
Not to cross post, but this finding mentioned in another thread is relevant here.
The Proforth team have been considering a prop-base CNC solution. The baseline has been the DIY Reprap 3D printers. I have a Prusa, and Sal has a Printrbot.
The question is: What benefit does a prop solution have over a ATmega/Marlin solution? Consider the Marlin hardware and tool chain exist, do the job sufficiently well, and have a very large following. And we have them on our desks already.
As of today, the finding is that its cheaper and easier to just use Marlin.
If anybody has a specific application that needs the power of the prop, this is still an open option. For example, If one wanted to create a RPi based standalone 3D printer controller, a prop as a controller for the steppers and sensors would be a reasonable approach.
For the time being, while still on the list of possible projects, this effort has dropped way down to the back of the to-do list.
Comments
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B80A_woXoRWdZGo2MGhRUUNScmVIa04yWnotM2Zjdw/edit?pli=1
I found the instructions for Gregs Wade guidler lacking...
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17030
It seems I need a short 8mm shaft for the idler bearing and this is just forced into the plastic.
I have roughly assembled the frame (using my 6mm threaded rods and bars that I had for my own prototype frame I built over a year ago - frame only).
What I have decided to do is build the Prusa V2 and use that to print my simpler/cheaper/smaller version. Also during this process I will get the Propeller board(s) working.
I do have a question...
I am thinking because the heated bed uses a lot of current, that it may be better to have this as a completely separate pcb with a tiny micro to control the heated bed and just use a 2 wire serial to the main processor to set the temp, or it could be completely self-standing. Any thoughts? BTW the prop pcb will still be able to control this as it will have 2 mosfet ccts.
Here are pics of the parts including the Hyena hobed bolt and the GT2 belts and pulleys purchased from www.create3D.com.au
(note I am temporarily using 6mm instead of 8mm)
What size nozzle do you use for 1.75mm ABS/PLA ? Is there any cross-over where its possible to use either 1.75 or 3mm in the same extruder?
My nozzle is 0.35mm. They seen to have trouble getting the hole exactly straight, so the jet of plastic squirts out on a slight angle. 3mm filament / 0.5mm hole may be more reliable in that regard.
Crossover shouldn't be hard - there are 3 components (teflon barrel, brass barrel, nozzle) that would need to change. I am thinking of just adding a whole second X/Z/E arrangment for 3mm for minimum changeover.
Regarding the heated bed switch, you can do it whichever way you like - there are advantages either way. The 11 amp polyswitch used to protect the bed is bigger than many of your PCBs, and it does get hot during operation. You don't need a heated bed for PLA printing, which is the recommended way to start.
One thing I found: To get the rig square and true, use a piece of granite counter top, (like a cut out for a sink) or a thick mirror to build upon. Turns out all my tables and desk tops were slightly off, and building on a mirror ensure the build space as exactly flat. Then I found a three quarter inch thick granite counter top cut out, and the thing has stayed pretty much perfect. I had no issue with prints coming out skewed. My most recent find is a cut out an inch and a half thick granite, but thats way too heavy to drag into the shop.
My .5 mmm nozzle started out squirting straight down, but now squirts a bit to one side. Maybe the solid layers on the bottom were getting over filled when I first stated printing. It doesn't make too much difference as its consistent. Probably should get a new nozzle and recalibrate though.
The builder is considering setting up kits for printed parts and rods+fasteners. Buyer would have to order separately motors, electronics, hot end, wires, connectors.
Any interest?
Thanks!
I am right there with you
http://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu
I have rev 1.3a and everything works, so that is what I'm planning to use as my baseline. This is also what the padawan is using for the Wallace build. Mine was $99USD, with no drivers or connectors. The kid purchased $85 USD for board + connectors, and later found board+drivers for $89, unfortunately I don't have links and he didn't write up his notes yet.
Sal is waiting on his printrbot, so he's going to use whatever comes with that as his baseline. I don't know what all the rest of the folks are using, but we should have several data points.
Costs for the electronics, 5 motors, and four driver boards are pretty fixed, but I think the total cost for somebody with a printer to make one (Wallace, that is) is around (under?) $300. When we get our notes finished, I plan to make a kit of just the printed parts, the cut rods, and all the fasteners; if you buy the other parts direct you save from having to pay double shipping. The price should be materials + shipping + X%. I will have a small mark up X%. Probably like 10% so the total cost should be under $100 for the kit of printed parts, rods and fasteners.
The hot end is a different story, this still seems to be the tough bit if you haven't done it before. If you make one, you screw something up, if you make ten, you can make nine perfect ones and have spares to fix the first one. But I don't know how many folks would pay some braino to make an extruder hot end for them.
Prof. Braino, thanks a lot for the initiative of this thread.
I studied mechanics and I have some experience in project several years.
My interest in microcontrollers like BasicStamp and of course Propeller start with the the personal need/curiosity to control equipment. My skills to program are very basic but I can use when the objects are well documented. I chose to learn spin instead of C because Propeller is more powerful than Arduino and more comprehensive, I think.
I bought a LongBoatPrusa (http://reprap.org/wiki/LongboatPrusa), due to interest to learn make CNC machines, from the beginning I look for controlling it with Propeller but my programming skills are very weak! When I received it I saw a lot of problems! :P After several months working some time on that, and stop a lot for thinking and getting information, for no mistakes, I finally get it done! I already print acceptable in PLA, but not have done all the calibrations, only the more important, temperature, velocity, a good first layer, layer height. I use Sprinter and Pronterface in W7.
I go back to school the next year, and I will do some project with mechatronics, I've been thinking about the possibility to make a good CNC machine, I want it cheap and open. At the beginning I thought in LinuxCNC, http://thebitbangtheory.wordpress.com/2012/01/10/cnc-software-toolchain-for-linux/, a very interesting blog, but I look for a more versatile and simplistic solution, here is a example that I like to see it be done with the propeller http://www.planet-cnc.com/index.php?page=shop.
My objective at this moment is to understand the best way to develop the spin code to CNC machines. How I pretend do this:
_ Create the gcode in the different programs;
_ Send the gcode by serial, in first place, and/or read in a SD card, later;
_ The propeller will read instruction by instruction from the gcode while the CNC is doing the work ;
What I know that is in the table, at this time I havn´t tried, I think I will need the pololu´s step drivers A4983/A4988 (someone have other suggestion?), and 3 or 4 stepper motors (at least in the beginning): (I´m wrong???)
.http://obex.parallax.com/objects/search/?csrfmiddlewaretoken=c58bd4e416f89e0ef3de8da842faf7aa&q=cnc; Circle and Line
.http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?130235-FAST-6-AXIS-linear-interpolative-CNC-Controller.&highlight=gcode; 6 axis CNC code .95
.http://www.parallax.com/CNCMiniMillControlSystem/tabid/855/Default.aspx; Mini-CNC-Mill-01-2011-06-16_Key_Txt-02t - Archive [Date 2011.06.19 Time 01.02]
.http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?129448-Prop-based-CNC-3D-printer/page11&highlight=gcode; rosco-pc-propmaker-a6cc835
I will send you a email: http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?138062-Who-is-interested-in-working-on-a-propeller-driven-CNC-control
Please I need help to see the best way to do this spin code!!
All questions, opinions and suggestions are welcome!
AS
(Sorry me English but I´m Portuguese)
Most likely (there are other alternatives) you will require Pololu steppers or equivalent (A4988 are better because they have better inbuilt protection, otherwise they are the same as A498). I have boards ready to take A4982/A4984 which also have the protection but are in the larger TSOP28 package but a lack of time has prevented me from testing them. I have a carrier board to take 4 of them (or pololus) that will interface to the prop. I have a mosfet board waiting to be tested as well (for extruder and heated bed). And of course a prop board too.
I have a Prusa V2 assembled except for tightening the screws. The Prusa requires 5 steppers, but only 4 drivers because the two Z steppers are in parallel. I have these. But as yet, I have not purchased the extruder (heater section), nor the heated bed. In fact I am going to try without the heated bed. I have the Gregs Wade idler section and the Hyena hobbed bolt. I am still unsure whether to start with 3mm or 1.75mm and whether PLA or ABS.
Most likely I will buy an ATMega board to connect to my electronics boards in the first instance to get it running sucessfuly before coding the propeller.
Nothing is going to happen here this month
I am unsure where prof_braino is up to currently.
I think you are going to be a good addition to this project. You machine is very similar to mine, I'm still using sanguinololu v1.3a with whatever processor is on it. I also have sprinter and pronterface for the time being.
Everything cluso said.
SPIN is a good choice when using the prop. My team uses propforth (forth) which is a little different but the basic algorithms are the same, so we can share.
We plan to begin implementing drop in replacements using the prop for the various parts of the tool chain, starting with the sanguinololu board and sprinter firmware. Sal Sanci, the architect of propforth, is expecting to get his printrbot shortly (he ordered late), and will begin examining the code. We will start in on implementing a firmware for a prop board, if you wish you can just use or help develop that. Since the prop code is to be treated as firmware, it should not matter what language it is written in. Of course, If you wish to do it in spin for the joy of it, we will all help with that too. If I could possibly interest you in looking at propforth, I would suggest that propforth is a very good fit for this type of application.
We are looking at the various options for our prop CNC solution(s). Cluso's drivers look good, Peter Jakacki's fancy L640 steppers look really cool.
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?135225-L6470-Microstepper-%28128-step%29-sample-Forth-code
Other members have suggested much more powerful and expensive solutions but many of those seem overkill for this application.
I have a4988 drivers on my machine, I think these come with printer bot, so we will likely start there, and include other parts as they become available.
The goal is to be compatible with much of the existing tool chains as possible, so we might start with skeinforge/pronterface but these are scripts and can be slow. We'll see what comes about as that phase gets going.
Also, your English is fine, I'm from Chicago so I'm used to much worse, from the locals.
In my opinion the diameter of filament is not important, is just a mechanical issue, we just have to adjust in calibration, print in PLA is easier and the working temperature is lower. I think PLA is better in the beginning.
My LongBoat Prusa is similar, 5 steppers with 4 drivers, in first place I connected in parallel the Z steppers but I read that is better in series, see how I have connect: http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapPro_Huxley_wiring, and it´s working fine (in series)! (If you have other point of view please tell)
To test X,Y,Z movements is enough 4 motors maybe 3 for a different printer (only 1 to Z).
I have everything working good with the ATMega board!
At this moment I want made a CNC machine with a spindle and with the possibility to work with PLA and ABS.
Hi Prof. Braino!
I already have read that you will use the PropForth, I will try do this again http://code.google.com/p/propforth/wiki/GettingStarted.
At this point I agree completely with you, is better start with the A4988 drivers! And for a good spindle AC? (any ideas)
I thought in made GCode with the different tool chains, and send the GCode by serial to propeller with LabView for example (if anybody have other suggestion, please tell), maybe simplify the spin code with that. (I thought in this solution because I don´t know how the tool chains send it to ATMega. Maybe like rosco-pc-propmaker?)
Thanks to both!
AS
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29092
If you print 4 pairs you have a simple filament spool feeder that can be easily retrofitted to a Prusa (and possibly other repraps) without unbolting anything...
Got to grips with OpenSCAD. What fun, anything is suddenly possible.
Now to hook up a Prop somehow...
It may be of interest to 3D printer community
=========
The book is still is very much in the works and getting close to done. I am into the projects now.
I decided to take a break from the writing (it was getting me burned out) and design and build a state of the art, larger format 3D printer for the hobbyists.
Its nominal build size is 12 by 12 by 8 inches and it will be of interest to the group interesting in writing the software for a Prop based 3D printer.
It takes only a 7/16 inch (11 mm) wrench to assemble and dis-assemble the entire printer! Its easy and requires minimal skill.
Overall dimensions about 18 by 18 by 28 inches. So its a big table top machine.
Very smooth operation. It has almost 50 ball bearings in it! Everything is on bearings for a very smooth and easy action.
It is almost done and when it is I will post pictures on the discussion forum for the above software effort.
Copies of the printer will be available to interested parties without the processor board but with motors (Nema 34) and optical limit switches in place.
I am hoping to keep the cost to under $1000.00 for a semi assemble kit.
Semi assembled because otherwise it would be too large to ship inexpensively. It would take a huge box.
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I will post detailed pictures of the finished unit within two weeks. It is almost done.
Harprit
Can't wait to see your pictures!
It's based loosly on the MakerBot Cupcake, however, as you can see, it is a complete redesign. The build area is much larger, has higher quality electronics (and therefore prints), is much faster and most of all, it just looks better.
I'd love to use one of these as a basis for a forum developed solution to a prop based 3d printer.
And here is a video of it doing a "dry run" without extruding plastic. You can see how fast it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bACEkT5Ocq0
Bill
very nice!
I am adding many more pictures at encodergeek.com. It will be in progress, next day or two.
Major Features:
Travel 11 by 14 by 8 inches
XY resolution 0.0083 inches per step. Z finer than 0.0005 inches.
Nema 34 motors with 180 steps per rev, 36 inch cables.
Table 12 by 12 inches
Machine is about 28 by 24 by 18 inches overall.
Easy to modify aluminum construction. Steel rails 1/2 inch in diameter. Very stiff
Ball bearings throughout and each and every point of motion. Very smooth
Needs only one 7/16 inch (or 11 mm) wrench to assemble or take apart
Shipped partially assembled or as a kit. Goes together fast and easy. Put it in a bag and take it home.
Everything is easy to adjust.
No hot end/extruder provided. Can accommodate two extruders on carriage for two color printing.
No controller or other electronics provided (except stops)
Motors and optical stops provided on all three axes.
I am now in the process of making the first 10 units. These will be available to first comers.
Price $750.00 includes shipping within 48 lower states via UPS.
Send me $100.000 refundable to get in line. Pay harprit.sandhu@gmail.com via paypal.
I estimate it will take me about a month to make the 10 units.
Then I will adjust the price to reflect the real cost as it was found for the first 10 units (and I may decide it not worth it!)
You can call me at 217-359-6751 with questions and discussions but the forum is the preferred way so all can see what we are talking about.
Harprit
A few weeks ago, I got the H1.1 Kit from SeeMeCNC, without any electronics, hoping to run it with a propeller. Before I started converting the C to SPIN, I decided to check to see if anyone else has done anything similar. As I found, many people here are working on the same thing, but as far as I can tell, no one has shared what they have yet, so I decided to start converting. Of course, I looked for shortcuts, and found something way better than what I was expecting: PropellerGCC. It's a C/C++ compiler for the propeller, so just changing some specific commands ( Pin Specific) with a find and replace should give me Firmware written for the Arduino on the prop. Does anyone see any problems with this, Legal or Otherwise? Granted, I will still have to develop a board, but that isn't that hard.
Thanks
There might be a couple issues to solve based on the prop architecture being different, but no show stoppers. Shouldn't be any legal issues that I can see, being open source and all.
Peter has been doing some stuff with motor control using Tachyon forth and his new stepper drivers.
Keep uus posted on your progress and any issues you encounter.
My project is just finishing our operating system/kernel, so we should be able to start in on some firmware shortly. Sal's Printrbot (from the kickstarter project) has finally shipped, so he'll has a known baseline to compare against. A usable firmware is still some months off, we tend to be slow and methodical.
Any-who, he's built it, its printing, and he's already decided the design could bear some improvement. Which was the whole point of the opensource, kickstarter thing, so things are working as planned.
Once he is satisfied he has a baseline established, he will start coding propfirmware in forth to replace the Sanguinololu/RAMPS hardware.
Sal is using OpenSCAD and SLICER, I don't know if he is using MARLIN for the ardunio firmware or not. Once we start moving on a forth firmware, I will open a new thread and close this one off.
The Proforth team have been considering a prop-base CNC solution. The baseline has been the DIY Reprap 3D printers. I have a Prusa, and Sal has a Printrbot.
The question is: What benefit does a prop solution have over a ATmega/Marlin solution? Consider the Marlin hardware and tool chain exist, do the job sufficiently well, and have a very large following. And we have them on our desks already.
As of today, the finding is that its cheaper and easier to just use Marlin.
If anybody has a specific application that needs the power of the prop, this is still an open option. For example, If one wanted to create a RPi based standalone 3D printer controller, a prop as a controller for the steppers and sensors would be a reasonable approach.
For the time being, while still on the list of possible projects, this effort has dropped way down to the back of the to-do list.