my s2 facebook 12/29/10
jamesacoleman
Posts: 3
12/29/10
#1: I received my two s2's a few weeks ago and set to work to quiet them, following the advice published in the Parallax form I set all the software volume controls to "5" and turned the speaker to "off". Now the dogs have stopped howling and attacking the s2.
#2: I duplicated the IR remote program published in the Parallax form and implemented all the codes produced by the parallax IR handheld remote. All codes worked fine with the s2 and now I will be able to utilize Andy Lindsay's "IR Remote for the Boe-Bot". I prefer the structure of a textbook for learning. Using Martin Hebel's BS2 Functions to implement the Basic Stamp Code, I coded the first program in the IR Remote text, "CountRestingStates.bs2". The program worked fine with data printing out as expected using the Parallax PST.
#3: I mounted a Parallax "breadboard set 700-32305" (the one used in the Propeller Education Kit) on top of my s2 straddling the wheels so that the front and rear of the s2 are fully exposed. The trick for this is a 1/2 inch female hosemender being sure to get the type of hose mender with the bulging end on the hose insertion end. I prefer the female hosemender which has a big threaded hose receiver on which the breadboard will be super glued. Before the breadboard is glued to the threaded hose receiver end of the female hosemender it is necessary to super glue the rotating threaded hose receiver itself to prevent it from turning and put a small notch in edge of the threaded hose receiver through which wires will eventually be run. When the bulging end of the hose mender is inserted into the hole on the top of the s2, the super glued threaded hose receiver is the perfect height to support the breadboard with ample clearing over the wheels. A notch needs to be cut in the top of the threaded hose receiver, 3/16 inch wide by 3/16 inch deep. Drill one hole for a 4-40 screw through the breadboard in the very center of the breadboard's length and width. On the bottom of the breadboard directly over the 4-40 hole super glue the threaded hose receiver (which has been previously super glued to prevent rotation) so that it is securely glued to the bottom of the breadboard making sure that the notch faces the longer side of the breadboard. Either longer side of the breadboard is OK because the breadboard can be rotated in final assembly with the notch facing forward toward the front of the s2. Remove the top section part of the s2 and install three 10-inch 3-wire F/F extension cables, 805-00011, into the hacker port pins such that the first cable is connected to P0,P1,P2, the second cable is connected to P3,P4,P5, and the third cable is connected to A0,5V,GND. I ignored A0 at this time even though it will be routed as a part of the last 3-wire cable. Thread all three cables down and through the bottom hole of the s2 one at a time. Reinstall the top of the s2 with the three cables running out the bottom hole. There will be space for the 3 cables to pass through the bottom hole when the top of the s2 is installed without pinching the wires. Now, thread the three cables back upward through the s2 bottom hole and out the s2 top hole one at a rime. Thread the three cables one at a time through the bulging end of the hose mender and associated glued breadboard out the notch under the breadboard. Insert the bulging end of the female hose mender which now has three cables through it into the top hole of the s2, drawing up and keeping the three cables tight so there is no slack exists in the cables as you securely insert the bulging end of the female hose mender and associated glued breadboard into the top hole of the s2 until it is securely installed. Face the notch toward the front of the s2. Install a 4 inch 4-40 screw (may have to consist of screw sections because it is hard to find such a screw) through top of the breadboard into the hole provided. This screw will be secured on the s2 bottom with a washer and nut. It may be necessary to file a round notch in the battery door cover to accommodate the washer and still be able to open the battery door. Position the breadboard so that the notch and cables point forward. Thread the Cables, which are now immerging from the notch down and under the breadpoard toward the rear of the s2 and then direct them in an upward direction and install them into the breadboard with three triple pin headers in any position of your choice to facilitate your circuit. Wire the 5V and GND strips on the breadboard together. If you do this properly the result is very secure and very neat in appearance. The option of using a pen with the s2 will have to redesigned using a smaller stubby pen.
#1: I received my two s2's a few weeks ago and set to work to quiet them, following the advice published in the Parallax form I set all the software volume controls to "5" and turned the speaker to "off". Now the dogs have stopped howling and attacking the s2.
#2: I duplicated the IR remote program published in the Parallax form and implemented all the codes produced by the parallax IR handheld remote. All codes worked fine with the s2 and now I will be able to utilize Andy Lindsay's "IR Remote for the Boe-Bot". I prefer the structure of a textbook for learning. Using Martin Hebel's BS2 Functions to implement the Basic Stamp Code, I coded the first program in the IR Remote text, "CountRestingStates.bs2". The program worked fine with data printing out as expected using the Parallax PST.
#3: I mounted a Parallax "breadboard set 700-32305" (the one used in the Propeller Education Kit) on top of my s2 straddling the wheels so that the front and rear of the s2 are fully exposed. The trick for this is a 1/2 inch female hosemender being sure to get the type of hose mender with the bulging end on the hose insertion end. I prefer the female hosemender which has a big threaded hose receiver on which the breadboard will be super glued. Before the breadboard is glued to the threaded hose receiver end of the female hosemender it is necessary to super glue the rotating threaded hose receiver itself to prevent it from turning and put a small notch in edge of the threaded hose receiver through which wires will eventually be run. When the bulging end of the hose mender is inserted into the hole on the top of the s2, the super glued threaded hose receiver is the perfect height to support the breadboard with ample clearing over the wheels. A notch needs to be cut in the top of the threaded hose receiver, 3/16 inch wide by 3/16 inch deep. Drill one hole for a 4-40 screw through the breadboard in the very center of the breadboard's length and width. On the bottom of the breadboard directly over the 4-40 hole super glue the threaded hose receiver (which has been previously super glued to prevent rotation) so that it is securely glued to the bottom of the breadboard making sure that the notch faces the longer side of the breadboard. Either longer side of the breadboard is OK because the breadboard can be rotated in final assembly with the notch facing forward toward the front of the s2. Remove the top section part of the s2 and install three 10-inch 3-wire F/F extension cables, 805-00011, into the hacker port pins such that the first cable is connected to P0,P1,P2, the second cable is connected to P3,P4,P5, and the third cable is connected to A0,5V,GND. I ignored A0 at this time even though it will be routed as a part of the last 3-wire cable. Thread all three cables down and through the bottom hole of the s2 one at a time. Reinstall the top of the s2 with the three cables running out the bottom hole. There will be space for the 3 cables to pass through the bottom hole when the top of the s2 is installed without pinching the wires. Now, thread the three cables back upward through the s2 bottom hole and out the s2 top hole one at a rime. Thread the three cables one at a time through the bulging end of the hose mender and associated glued breadboard out the notch under the breadboard. Insert the bulging end of the female hose mender which now has three cables through it into the top hole of the s2, drawing up and keeping the three cables tight so there is no slack exists in the cables as you securely insert the bulging end of the female hose mender and associated glued breadboard into the top hole of the s2 until it is securely installed. Face the notch toward the front of the s2. Install a 4 inch 4-40 screw (may have to consist of screw sections because it is hard to find such a screw) through top of the breadboard into the hole provided. This screw will be secured on the s2 bottom with a washer and nut. It may be necessary to file a round notch in the battery door cover to accommodate the washer and still be able to open the battery door. Position the breadboard so that the notch and cables point forward. Thread the Cables, which are now immerging from the notch down and under the breadpoard toward the rear of the s2 and then direct them in an upward direction and install them into the breadboard with three triple pin headers in any position of your choice to facilitate your circuit. Wire the 5V and GND strips on the breadboard together. If you do this properly the result is very secure and very neat in appearance. The option of using a pen with the s2 will have to redesigned using a smaller stubby pen.
Comments
I just started playing with my S2 in earnest today. I didn't get very far, I think I got a bad unit! It does strange and erratic things using the GUI.
AAARRRGGGHHH!