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Prop Plug — Parallax Forums

Prop Plug

HumanoidoHumanoido Posts: 5,770
edited 2011-02-09 05:46 in Propeller 1
Anyone have this problem with a Propeller Plug? The connector broke off through plugging in and unplugging to load up numerous prop boards that don't have the USB circuit. I got two of these. One went AWOL so this one got all the use and apparently it was too much. It looks like this will take some store trekking to find a similar one-row SIP connector with four socket pins on the end, and then solder the pins to the Plug. In the meantime, has anyone come up with a way to strengthen the connection points so this won't continue to happen?

attachment.php?attachmentid=75828&stc=1&d=1291110344
The resulting connector detachment of a Propeller Plug
prop_plug.jpg
651 x 262 - 25K

Comments

  • LeonLeon Posts: 7,620
    edited 2010-11-30 02:33
    Just solder four wires and add a female connector. I used a Molex KK with crimp terminals to make the Prop Clip I ordered by mistake more useful.
  • JonnyMacJonnyMac Posts: 9,208
    edited 2010-11-30 08:29
    I've done it, too. Luckily, I had the correct female connector (Mouser 517-974-01-04) in my kit for Propeller Platforms. After attaching I noticed that the shell kept coming off so I added a drop of 5-minute epoxy to hold the shell and strengthen the works.
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2010-11-30 08:44
    I converted Prop Clip to a Prop Plug, using a Samtec header connector sample that was lying about. It's taken all kinds of abuse and has yet to fail.

    Humanoido, your photo suggests that the broken connector was a surface-mount unit. Is that the case? If so, be sure to replace it with a through-hole part if there are holes in the board. Surface-mount connectors without mounting tabs are much too fragile for repeated connects and disconnects.

    If it is a surface-mount connector, Parallax needs to be alerted to this failure mode.

    -Phil
  • Tracy AllenTracy Allen Posts: 6,666
    edited 2010-11-30 08:50
    I've made a practice of applying a line of "Goop" adhesive to the end of that connector where it contacts the board. That absorbs the stress.
  • HumanoidoHumanoido Posts: 5,770
    edited 2010-11-30 09:04
    Yes the connector had pins that were laid directly on the surface of the board and then soldered.
  • LeonLeon Posts: 7,620
    edited 2010-11-30 09:07
    I do the same thing sometimes with home-made PCB adapters.
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2010-11-30 09:07
    Another way to reduce the effects of mechanical stress at the board is to replace the connector with an extension cable, like this one from Sparkfun:

    You can solder the wire ends to the board, but you will have to strain-relieve the solder joints with something like hot-melt glue to keep the hard-solder/flexible-wire interface from breaking. Better would be to find a 4-conductor extension cable with connectors at both ends. Then you could solder a male header to the Prop Plug board and just plug the cable in.

    -Phil
  • HumanoidoHumanoido Posts: 5,770
    edited 2010-11-30 09:28
    Yes, actually now that I inspect it with a magnifier, I see there's through holes and some through-hole pins still stuck and broken off in the centers. That means the connector required a 90-degree bend. It seems a bend like that would begin to stress the pins.
  • RavenkallenRavenkallen Posts: 1,057
    edited 2010-11-30 09:32
    Yeah, the same thing happened to mine. I think the one i have know is a little more sturdy!!
  • HumanoidoHumanoido Posts: 5,770
    edited 2010-11-30 09:44
    I have two different USB cables. One is thick and certainly puts weight stress on the tiny Propeller Plug. The other USB cable is very thin and can be retracted - it came with Penguin. It appears that it would add almost no weight or stress to the plug. So maybe using the "Penguin cable" can help the situation, though not a permanent solution.
  • HumanoidoHumanoido Posts: 5,770
    edited 2010-11-30 12:17
    Further investigation apparently shows the Propeller Plug holes with no obvious pins inside, just a bit of solder capping off one side. (see photo) This may indicate pins were not inserted into the holes but just surface mounted, unless the pins took on solder mounds that are spherical appearing. I have looked at this with a microscope and cannot identify any pointed pin remnants. Someone with more experience can have a look at the photo below.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=75842&stc=1&d=1291147825
    propplug_holes.jpg
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  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2010-11-30 14:53
    At least with the plated through-holes anchoring things, the connector itself broke and didn't lift any traces. That's a Good ThingTM.

    -Phil
  • Ken GraceyKen Gracey Posts: 7,401
    edited 2010-11-30 22:31
    Hello Humanoido!

    Indeed, we had this problem and a few Prop Plugs slipped out the door before we detected the connector problem. We reworked existing stock and qualified a new part for future production runs.

    I can replace this troublemaker for you. Drop me an e-mail with the request and I'll get the team on it Wednesday morning.

    And I'm sorry for the failure. There's no excuse for this part substitution. There's nothing worse than sitting down to do some Propeller development when the silly adapter breaks and you don't have a backup.

    Sincerely,

    Ken Gracey
  • WBA ConsultingWBA Consulting Posts: 2,935
    edited 2010-11-30 23:26
    The plated holes are for the Prop Clip attachment, not for the connector. The same board is used for the Prop clip and Prop plug. You could use the prop clip holes to solder in a right angle TH connector to make it a bit more rigid. I have a short extension cable so that no tension is directly on the connector as I have bent mine several times by my own fault, but haven't broken it yet.
  • Graham StablerGraham Stabler Posts: 2,510
    edited 2010-12-01 11:52
    When mine broke I replaced with a header strip surface mounted (normally used through hole). I used hot glue for strain relief.

    Graham
  • HumanoidoHumanoido Posts: 5,770
    edited 2011-02-09 03:27
    This is a followup post to thank Ken Gracey and Parallax for the complete and total support of this product, and for the rapid replacement with a better improved version to get my project up and running very quickly in record time! Parallax is known for outstanding support and this is the proof!

    As a tip for use, I now recommend, and exclusively use, the thin retractable USB cable. The cable was first introduced with Penguin walking robots and is now being shipping with other Parallax products. The light weight cable does not appear to put any undue stress on the Propeller Plug when full unwound and the thin cable sets on the table without any tension.

    Here's a tip for keeping track of your Prop Plug and increasing the odds of "not losing it." Keep it plugged into the end of the retractable USB cable. It then becomes a "large object" 5-inches long and your chances of losing it are lessened.

    Here's a tip for plugging in and unplugging the Prop Plug. Use a steady grip on both the Prop Plug and the USB cable connector. Keeping this connected together makes it larger and more stable, easier to grip, thus more easy to handle and keep stabilized. The cable actually has a tiny grip pad molded into it on both sides which is very useful.

    If you don't have the retractable cable, you definitely need to get one!
    http://www.parallax.com/Store/Accessories/CablesConverters/tabid/166/CategoryID/40/List/0/SortField/0/catpageindex/2/Level/a/ProductID/37/Default.aspx
    805-00010-M.jpg
    USB A to Mini B Retractable Cable

    Item code 805-00010 $4.99

    Type A to mini B; this portable cable extends and retracts making it ideal for portable use or when you need to make a temporary clutter-free connection. Cable length is 30 inches extended and 4 inches when retracted.

    Key Specifications:
    • USB cable type A to mini B
    • Dimesnons: 30 inches extended, 4 inches retracted.
  • Heater.Heater. Posts: 21,230
    edited 2011-02-09 04:07
    Humanoid,
    I now recommend, and exclusively use, the thin retractable USB cable.

    I don't.

    I have a few of these thin retractable cables. With the "yo-yo" in the middle. Outwardly they all look the same.

    Some of them work OK, others are very unreliable. Connection may work or it may not. May work with my XMOS board for example but not with my Prop Plug.

    Others here have hinted at this kind of unreliability.
  • LeonLeon Posts: 7,620
    edited 2011-02-09 05:31
    They do have a poor reputation. I've got several of them that were supplied with various pieces of kit, but never use them.
  • ctwardellctwardell Posts: 1,716
    edited 2011-02-09 05:44
    My PEK came with one, the "yo-yo" failed to lock so it quickly became a skinny, non-retractable, USB cable.

    C.W.
  • rubbersideuprubbersideup Posts: 14
    edited 2011-02-09 05:46
    Heater. wrote: »
    Humanoid,



    I don't.

    I have a few of these thin retractable cables. With the "yo-yo" in the middle. Outwardly they all look the same.

    Some of them work OK, others are very unreliable. Connection may work or it may not. May work with my XMOS board for example but not with my Prop Plug.

    Others here have hinted at this kind of unreliability.

    ive got 3 or 4 of these and never had any problems! i dont use any thing else.
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