beer brewing process control project help
jsaddiction
Posts: 84
Ok a good friend of mine is into brewing his own beer. I am into electronics and we figure that we could come up with a way to control the process. I need help from you smart guys. I do not have any experience with programming chips or some advanced electronics. Here are the details of the circuit requirements :
Need to monitor
1. Temperature of water X3
2. Flow rate X2
Need to control
1. Water temp for 10 gal of water (from room temp to 180F)
2. Flow rate around 10 gal per hour
Alarms
1. Water temp has stabilized (tolerance is 2 degrees F)
2. Flow rate difference is above 1 gal per hour
3. Flow rate is less than 5 gal per hour
Basically without too much reading it should work like this
1. Heat 10 gal of water to 150 or so degrees
2. Drain this liquid into a bed of grain as we drain this makes worth which should stay as close to 150 degrees f as possible.
3. We then heat more water to around 180 degrees in the first pot. ( no need for multiple heating elements)
4. This heated water is strike water. This is circulated through hops at a slow rate. (10 gal per hour) the strike water should maintain 2 inches of height above the bed of hops.
After all that it gets cooled and fermented.
I thank you all for any help you can provide
Need to monitor
1. Temperature of water X3
2. Flow rate X2
Need to control
1. Water temp for 10 gal of water (from room temp to 180F)
2. Flow rate around 10 gal per hour
Alarms
1. Water temp has stabilized (tolerance is 2 degrees F)
2. Flow rate difference is above 1 gal per hour
3. Flow rate is less than 5 gal per hour
Basically without too much reading it should work like this
1. Heat 10 gal of water to 150 or so degrees
2. Drain this liquid into a bed of grain as we drain this makes worth which should stay as close to 150 degrees f as possible.
3. We then heat more water to around 180 degrees in the first pot. ( no need for multiple heating elements)
4. This heated water is strike water. This is circulated through hops at a slow rate. (10 gal per hour) the strike water should maintain 2 inches of height above the bed of hops.
After all that it gets cooled and fermented.
I thank you all for any help you can provide
Comments
Stamps are quicker & easier to learn if you're starting from scratch, most any Stamp can do what you want. Props are cheaper and have lots more capability, but take time to master.
10 gal/hour is very slow, you could almost get away with an aquarium pump, except for your high temps. You'll need food grade, high temp hoses.
Definitely keep us updated, this project sounds interesting and you'll get lots of support here!
Take a look at Peristaltic pumps.I see these used for Brewing.This is a super simple pump,very accurate,Really cheap if You make Your own DC drive for it.
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I would start with reading temperatures and displaying the values on a serial LCD display or two.Take a look at the DS2760 T/C readers,They work great and theirs lots of code for them.They also have the ADC built-in,So theres nothing else needed.I used My index finger and thumb to check the T/C temp-98.6F.Use other known heat sources to check the accuracy.
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Know that You have an accurate temp reader,Start on the water heaters.
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I'd use the BS2P24 or BS2P40
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erco "Finally, a project that unites us all: Stamps and Beer!" I'm with Ya!
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Hope this helps?
Basically the Propeller is a 32 bit version of the Stamp with 32 I/O, way more memory and 8 cores. The down side is that if you are used to basic you need to learn another language but its not to big a leap. The upside is their are several languages you can learn to program it including Assembly for the Propeller,
You seem to have some of your brewing terms and processes mixed up a bit, but either way...
Right now I am in the process of something very similar. I am building an all grain brewery in my garage that will be run off the BS2 Board of education. I have 3 vessels, all made from old 50 liter s.s. kegs.
- My Hot liquor tun (where I heat the strike water, and water added to the mash later, called sparge water) has a 5500 Watt heating element inside.
- My mash tun has no element, I circulate the hot water and the wort through separate sides of a heat exchanger to hold my mash temperature constant for 1+ hour(s).
- My Boil kettle has another 5500 watt element. Once the Wort is ready, I transfer here, and bring to a boil adding hops and such at certain points. From here, the wort is chilled and transferred to a fermenter, where I add the yeast.
For my controls, I measure the temperatures of the Hot liquor tun, the mash tun and the kettle. I am using LM34 temperature probes that I made by epoxying the IC into a piece of copper tube. I use an MCP3202 ADC to interpret the analog voltage coming from these. I have a PID routine that cycles the heating elements via 40A SSR's (one for each element).
As far as flow, you may want to know that during the sparging, depending on the approach you use. For ~10 gallon batches I will either batch sparge, so that flow rate doesn't matter, or I will just use manual valves on the pump outlets to control the flow of both inlet and outlet streams should I decide to continously sparge. I didn't want to get into flow sensors, cause the budget increases significantly. I have two March 809 pumps that I will use for fluid transfer.
This might seem like a bit of a ramble, which it is, I am just trying to get across that controlling temp is quite easy. When you get into flow control, you and your buddy need to decide whether it's really worth it, when it's so easy to do it by hand. (or just choose an alternative sparge method)
You can also look at theelectricbrewery dot com. The guy has done a fantastic job with his brewery, and documented everything. He used packaged PID control units, but you could just sub in a m/c at that point.
Good luck, and happy brewing.
You may find that mason jars with screw lids are a better option to using beer bottles and a cap machine.
Why so? For one, the screw tops have made capping difficult. For two, the average beer bottle is no longer recycled and not very strong glass.
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This is really important for the " BORN ON DATE "