Desparate for some quick help
steprog
Posts: 227
Hi Guys,
I am about to use this Freescale H-Bridge MC33886 for my design and I have less than an hour to send off the circuit board, but I decided to do a quick check and I think this device is 0-5volts instead of 3.3V.
If it is am I dead in the water with driving it with a prop?
Thanks,
Greg
I am about to use this Freescale H-Bridge MC33886 for my design and I have less than an hour to send off the circuit board, but I decided to do a quick check and I think this device is 0-5volts instead of 3.3V.
If it is am I dead in the water with driving it with a prop?
Thanks,
Greg
Comments
I guess wishful thinking on my part. It claims to be +5 volt cmos compatible afterall. Which should allow +3.3 to work. If it switches at the midpoint. However I think the ttl compatibility is messing things up.
Oh well.
Your data sheet says Vih is 3.5+ volts. Use a 4.7K pull-up and let that produce the high level like open collector - the slew rate could be a problem, but your device input does have a 0.7V hysteresis. Propeller can drive low for the low level (12ma max total sink for 4.7K and 6ma for 10K pullup). If there are inputs to the propeller use a 2K series resistor - slower slew rate of course.
Standard disclaimer applies. It's your circuit and your decision.
4050 is 6 gates each IC. 12 transistors will take slightly more space to lay out. Stick two 4050's end to end. If you don't have the space on the board, then add some headers and make an interface board with +5, GND, 12 signals to the smaller PCB, stick the small board in between. A 14 pin (2x7) header on .1" centers will allow the 14 connections, then use a 2x7 ribbon header or similar to connect the board.
If you can't manage the space or the extra board in the order, then just add some pads for +5, GND, 12 connections. Go to radio shack and get the little hobby perf boards and make up the 4050 board with through hole parts, very simple solution for a one-off. If you use .1" center pads for the 12 pads, then you could even solder the smaller board onto the header pins.
I use the pull-up trick on I2C with propeller pins with no problems. I do have a series resistor between devices even on the Propeller outputs though - it doesn't hurt and can save your butttt.
Silence doesn't necessarily mean disapproval around here. This will be certain though: if your board doesn't work for some reason either immediately or over time because of using my suggestion, I'll probably take s**t for it though even with the disclaimer. Like I said, your design.
I realize driving on the edge is probably bad for production applications, but it may get you through a pinch. ...and that propeller is pretty resiliant.
That way when the I/O goes 'HIGH' , instead of 3.3V with reference to the 'actual ground' everything else sees, you should 'see' about 3.9V ... When the I/O goes 'LOW' you would 'see' the diode drop ... about 0.6V
In that case with the ADC or anything else requiring 3.3V use the Version#2 of what I posted. As far as the Propeller is concerned (and anything else connected to the regulator in this way) it will only 'see' 3.3V directly from the regulator. You still need to use the normal caps on the regulator.
Not all grounds... just the ground to the Propeller and any other 3.3V in communication with the Propeller.
With a 10K Pullup resistor your pulling the I/O to about 3.88V and forward biasing the HIGH side ESD diode built-in to the I/O Pin. It's only 112 uA, but it's "ON" and you increase the potential for CMOS latchup. (See attached PULLUP.JPG)
If my original solution won't work, It was more of a 'fix' after the fact, my personal preference is to use an Emitter follower. (See attached Emitter Follower v2.JPG). With the Emitter Follower, you avoid forward biasing the ESD diode, and you get a higher voltage of 5V from the pull-up resistor.
Thanks for your help on this.
Greg
Thanks,
Greg
I think I finally cycled back to using your cd4050 ideal. There maybe better translators out there buy at least I understand this.
Thanks,
Greg