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Any interest in Propeller Platform USB bare PCB's? — Parallax Forums

Any interest in Propeller Platform USB bare PCB's?

Nick McClickNick McClick Posts: 1,003
edited 2010-11-08 09:58 in Propeller 1
When I ordered PCB's for the Propeller Platform USB, the board house mistakenly sent me de-panelized boards. They fixed the error and re-sent panels, but I now have 300 Propeller Platform USB bare boards.

Before I add them to my pile of 'junk boards', does anyone want them? Some details;
  • Surface Mount Soldering: Prop QFP, D-pak vregs, microSD. If you put them together by hand, I would skip the FTDI and USB parts, they're a pain. The microSD card is pretty easy. Discrete SMD parts are 0805 or larger.
  • Through Hole: Power jack, switch, caps, crystal, and pin sockets.
  • Board size is 2.8" x 2.5".
  • Price would be $7.

If anyone is interested, I'll also put together little 2-page SMT assembly guide that would include part numbers and tips. Of course, you'll need to provide the parts.

Bare boards are already available for the original Propeller Platform, and that's 100% through hole. This would be for folks who want an SMT project or prefer the smaller footprint. microSD & USB are nice, too.

Any interest? Here's the populated board;
5084849886_23d832cc10.jpg

Edit: They're available along with an assembly guide here

Comments

  • jaegjaeg Posts: 156
    edited 2010-10-27 11:13
    Sorry for my ignorance here but what does de-panelized mean?
  • Nick McClickNick McClick Posts: 1,003
    edited 2010-10-27 11:24
    Panelized means that multiple designs (or several copies of the same design) are put on a single PCB. This is important for surface mount designs so the reflow oven and pick and place machine can do several boards at once.

    De-panelize just means to break apart the panel. So instead of a short, wide stack of panels, I got a tall, narrow stack of individual boards. It's not a problem if you were to assemble the board by hand, but it's a no-go for the assembly company.
  • Ding-BattyDing-Batty Posts: 302
    edited 2010-10-27 11:36
    I wouldn't mind getting one or two -- I want the inter-board header pins mounted in different rows than you supply by default. And I could use the SMT practice :lol:

    I am waiting for the SDRAM boards to be available, as well...
  • Duane DegnDuane Degn Posts: 10,588
    edited 2010-10-27 11:53
    Nick,

    I'd like a couple.

    I'm surprised so many of us are still afraid of surface mount. After reading an online tutorial, I now think I prefer surface mount (as long as it has leads I can see). I've started using amost all smt resistors and capacitors since they save so much space. The 0603 size fits nicely between proto board holes.

    Any chance on making a kit with the parts that go on the board?

    Thanks,

    Duane Degn
  • CampeckCampeck Posts: 111
    edited 2010-10-27 12:16
    I would like at least 2 as well. My job has me comfortable with SMT soldering.
  • Nick McClickNick McClick Posts: 1,003
    edited 2010-10-27 13:17
    I can hand solder everything on the board reliably with my $35 Elenco except the FTDI and the USB jack. The Prop, EEPROM, Vregs, and discretes are easy. I was very particular for the microSD card slot, it's also easy to solder.

    For me, discrete SMD's are easier than through holes - it takes the same amount of time and you don't have to clip off the leads. Some of the small pitch IC's are a pain, though. You just need better equipment to do those.
  • zoopydogsitzoopydogsit Posts: 174
    edited 2010-10-27 13:44
    Hi Nick,

    I'm interested if you have any left.

    I normally make my own single sided SMT boards (draft in a well known free web tool, print to a JPEG, flip in MSPAINT, Laser print on Press-n-Peel blue, iron (the house iron) on board, etch in Amonium Perasulphate bath, wash, populate and solder using my 15W iron). Works well for the QFP Prop and FT232RL, etc, and is mostly reliable (occasional track doesn't come out and needs Canar wire). Very time consuming and have a number of failures. To increase reliability I was going to get them professionally made.

    Though on a CBA, your's are a lot cheeper! They look nice and quite functional :-) Having some professionally made boards may reduce some reliability problems.

    Please let me know how I can order some. I'm in Australia, so postage/postage preferences to manage the cost would be a factor.

    Thanks :-)
  • Nick McClickNick McClick Posts: 1,003
    edited 2010-10-27 14:58
    Just put it up along with an assembly guide - you can pick one up here.

    This is a lot easier (and less time consuming) than making your own board. They're also electrically tested, and the design is very flexible, so you can use it many of your Prop projects.
  • mojorizingmojorizing Posts: 249
    edited 2010-10-27 16:08
    I'm interested on buying some boards... How do you want to handle it, via your website?


    oops I see you already offer them via your website, nice.
  • David BetzDavid Betz Posts: 14,516
    edited 2010-10-27 16:13
    I may be interested in a few depending on the price.
  • hover1hover1 Posts: 1,929
    edited 2010-10-27 18:53
    David,

    Looks like the price is $7.00 (+Shipping?) (First Post, I missed it too the first time)

    Nick,
    I would be interested in a few. You say the USB and FDTI chip are a pain but I see the USB connector to be troublesome, but not out of the realm of hand soldering. Agree?

    Jim

    David Betz wrote: »
    I may be interested in a few depending on the price.
  • CampeckCampeck Posts: 111
    edited 2010-10-27 19:03
    Do you have a number for the machined pins?

    Would these for say work?
    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A32370-ND
  • Nick McClickNick McClick Posts: 1,003
    edited 2010-10-27 19:22
    @campeck - no, probably not. Use these. You could also do it without machined pins and just solder the crystal directly to the board.

    @Hover - The 2 painful parts are the USB jack and the FTDI chip. I can do the FTDI with my elenco, but it takes patience and some wick. The USB jack has very short leads, I can do it, but I need to use the needle nose tip and a magnifying glass. Sometimes I mess it up, though.
  • CampeckCampeck Posts: 111
    edited 2010-10-27 19:30
    ooooh ok. I know what those are now!

    Just bought everything needed to make 2
    Thanks!
  • K2K2 Posts: 693
    edited 2010-10-28 12:49
    Nick McClick wrote: »
    Bare boards are already available for the original Propeller Platform, and that's 100% through hole.

    Where are these listed/mentioned/shown?

    Dr Acula has a great deal on great bare boards. But sometimes I need accommodations for a mezzanine board. That seems to be a feature of your boards.
  • Nick McClickNick McClick Posts: 1,003
    edited 2010-10-28 13:29
    @K2 - just go to www.gadgetgangster.com/168 and select 'PCB only'. It's right here;
    5124271690_e08b60b8dc_o.png

    Adding your own expansion modules is definitely the point. You can use any protoboard, jumper to a breadboard, or design your own pcb. Templates for designing your own (for Eagle, Diptrace, or ExpressPCB) are here.
  • hover1hover1 Posts: 1,929
    edited 2010-10-28 14:04
    Nick McClick wrote: »
    @K2 - just go to www.gadgetgangster.com/168 and select 'PCB only'..

    Nick,

    I'll have to admit I spent a while trying to find the bare board. It's not really apparent.

    I would put it up as a "related item" or have a link to the bare board in the parts list, (link the picture to the bare board)

    Just a thought.

    Jim
  • turboturbo Posts: 24
    edited 2010-10-29 15:33
    Just ordered mine cant wait until it comes in !!!

    I also really enjoy the videos you have posted on your site they are very informative, im coming form the SX, and the prop has always been intimidating to me, but the videos simplify the basics, keep those coming!!!
  • K2K2 Posts: 693
    edited 2010-11-05 10:16
    What great boards, Mr. McClick! I loved the free gift, too. Oddly enough, neither my lovely wife nor the fine folks at work share my enthusiasm for it. But their Gloomy Gus attitudes don't dissuade me!
  • CampeckCampeck Posts: 111
    edited 2010-11-05 11:41
    That's weird. I got my VGA/PS2 board the other day and haven't gotten the Bare PCB's yet. And I ordered the VGA board days after the bare boards.

    Tracking says they left CA on Nov 1st. I hope they get here this weekend. I can't wait to put them together!
  • CampeckCampeck Posts: 111
    edited 2010-11-05 19:21
    Got them in!
    But I left my tweezers at work...NOOOoo!
  • william chanwilliam chan Posts: 1,326
    edited 2010-11-05 20:10
    Nick,

    I would like to purchase 1 set of bare pcb, microSD holder, power switch, dc socket, reset button, ftdi chip, 5v regulator, 3.3v regulator and usb socket.

    How much would the total cost be plus shipping by regular airmail to Malaysia?

    William Chan
  • CampeckCampeck Posts: 111
    edited 2010-11-07 16:50
    Got them both put together.
    I accidentally bought the wrong package resistor array and forgot to get a terminal block for one of them.

    I found the FTDI chip easy to solder with just the solder that was already on the board. Tack down one pin, line up the others and press down on all the pins with the iron. A good tacky flux helps.

    The hardest parts for me were the voltage regs. I ended up tacking down both legs with the chip at an angle up off the board. Then got some solder on the iron tip and put it in between the chips ground tab and the board and as the solder soaked under I pressed the chip down to the board.
    2010-11-07_19-24-16_944.jpg
    2000 x 1127 - 282K
    2010-11-07_19-25-40_36.jpg
    2000 x 1127 - 252K
  • hover1hover1 Posts: 1,929
    edited 2010-11-07 16:54
    Campeck wrote: »
    Got them both put together.
    I accidentally bought the wrong package resistor array and forgot to get a terminal block for one of them.

    I found the FTDI chip easy to solder with just the solder that was already on the board. Tack down one pin, line up the others and press down on all the pins. A good tacky flux helps.

    The hardest parts for me were the voltage regs. I ended up tacking down both legs with the chip at an angle up off the board. Then got some solder on the iron tip and put it in between the chips ground tab and the board and as the solder soaked under I pressed the chip down to the board.

    Good deal!

    Nice to see the USB portion went together without a hitch. Still need to get my boards on order.

    Jim
  • mojorizingmojorizing Posts: 249
    edited 2010-11-07 16:59
    @campeck
    Could you post your Bill Of Material from Digikey or Mouser for all the parts you ordered to populate these boards?
  • CampeckCampeck Posts: 111
    edited 2010-11-08 05:17
    Here is Gadget Ganster's assembly guide with some part #'s
    http://www.gadgetgangster.com/working_files/ggppusb/SMT_soldering.pdf


    AT24C512BN-SH25-TCT-ND____ IC EEPROM 512KBIT 1MHZ 8SOIC_______________2
    RNCS0805BKE1K50CT-ND_______RES 1/10W 1.5K OHM .1% 0805________________2
    CRT0805-BY-1002ELFCT-ND____RES 10K OHM 1/8W .1% 0805 SMD______________4
    P4.7KZCT-ND________________RES 4.7K OHM 1/8W .1% 0805 SMD_____________2
    445-1351-1-ND______________CAP CER .10UF 25V X7R 10% 0805______________10
    478-1280-1-ND______________CAP CERM 22PF 5% 100V NP0 0805_____________10
    587-2254-1-ND______________CAP CERM 4.7UF 35V Y5V 1206_________________2
    497-1496-1-ND______________IC REG LDO 1.5A 3.3V DPAK____________________2
    497-3468-1-ND______________IC REG LDO 5.0V 1.5A D-PAK___________________2
    350-2046-1-ND______________LED INGAN BLU WATER CLR 0805 SMD____________2
    401-1769-1-ND______________SWITCH TACT SILVR 300GF GULLWING___________2
    HR1941CT-ND_______________CONN MICRO SD R/A PUSH-PULL SMD_____________2
    768-1007-1-ND______________IC USB TO SERIAL UART 28-SSOP _______________2
    MMBT2222ATPMSCT-ND_______TRANSISTOR NPN GP 40V SOT23________________2
    H11671CT-ND_______________CONN RCPT USB MINI B R/A SMD_________________2
    450-1599-ND________________SWITCH SLIDE 2POS R/A BLACK T/H_____________2
    XC1711-ND_________________CRYSTAL 5.000 MHZ 18PF 49US_________________2
    CP-102B-ND________________CONN POWER JACK 2.5MM PCB CIRC______________2
    ED6302-ND_________________CONN SOCKET STRIP 02PIN .100 STR_____________2
    ACASA-10K/10K-2CT-ND______RES ARRAY 10K/10K OHM 4RES SMD______________2

    This list does not include the Terminal block, the three 47uF 25v electrolytic caps, or the pin sockets/headers (2x 16 position, 2x 4 position)!!
    http://www.gadgetgangster.com/find-a-project/56.html?projectnum=297
    http://www.gadgetgangster.com/find-a-project/56.html?projectnum=301
  • Nick McClickNick McClick Posts: 1,003
    edited 2010-11-08 09:53
    @William - I don't sell all the parts to make it, although I do sell a few, you can get them here.

    For the parts list, there's a slightly better BOM you can download it off Parallax's page for the Propeller Platform in the 'Open Source downloads' section here.

    I had less of a problem with the Vreg - I soldered the tab first by adding solder to the bare pad, putting the vreg on top and heating up the tab with my iron. It worked for me, but you do get the vreg pretty hot. ymmv.
  • CampeckCampeck Posts: 111
    edited 2010-11-08 09:58
    Nick McClick wrote: »
    It worked for me, but you do get the vreg pretty hot. ymmv.

    Yeah that's what I was trying to avoid. I only had enough parts to get it right the first time!

    Parallax's BOM direct link
    http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/docs/prod/osi/32208PropellerPlatformOSIFiles.zip
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