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Automatic Pet Fountain/First completed project. — Parallax Forums

Automatic Pet Fountain/First completed project.

ihmechihmech Posts: 179
edited 2011-03-30 17:47 in Robotics
This is my first completed project.· Please let me know what you think and any ideas on improvements!

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···· This project came about from trying to come up with a way of keeping the dog and cat watered at all times.· I had bought a pet water bowl that used a 5 gallon water jug that fit on top of the bowl, kinda like a water cooler for pets.· It was nice for awhile, but refilling involved the sink in the basement or a garden hose outside.· That got old real quick.· I·thought about using a simple float valve, but where I live in Indiana, our water has a VERY large amount of lime in the water.· Float valves used in our area are notoriously unreliable because of the lime and I don't want my house flooded when I'm not home.

···· I found Parallax a few years ago and for the last two I have been teaching myself programing with the Basic Stamp.· When trying to fix my water problem for my dog and cat, I realized that I had a box full of Parallax stuff and I had not built a practical and permanent project yet.· So, just for fun I decided to build an automated water bowl for my pets.· With lots of laughs from others, and a lot of determination on my part, I dug out my Professional Development Board and got started experimenting, building, and testing each system involved with my project.

··· My original goal was to reliably keep the water bowl full·without flooding my house.··It gets its water supply from a ice maker water line kit that I purchased·from the hardware store.· What I thought would be a simple project turned into quite a challenge for me since I am still very much a novice.· But thanks to everyone on the Parallax Forums my project was a success!

···· I built a float and water valve assembly that fits on the water bowl in place of the original 5 gallon water jug.· I built what I call a logic board that consists·of eight LED's, four expansion headers, and a·transistor that·supplies the ground for the switches and LED's.· The board allows me to visually see what is going on with the switches and provides a connection for the servo and anything else·that uses a 3 wire connection.

··· The control box is built using a Board of Education and a BS2.· It includes two push buttons and an serial·LCD display.· It is powered by a 12v wall wart.· I built a battery backup circuit into the control box·to prevent flooding if the power went out during a refill cycle.· The control box is modular and I can use it for·another project if I choose too,·all I would need to connect is a DB25 connector.


··· The program first checks the power status and if it finds that it is running on battery power, it closes the water valve if open and·shuts the system down. It then·goes to sleep for about an hour and then rechecks for main power.··If main power returns, it goes·back to normal operation.

···· It checks the status of the·valve and float switches along with power status·about every 5 seconds and if the float is in the empty position it automatically·refills the bowl.· If for some reason during the refill cycle a switch fails on the float, it will timeout, close the water valve and blink the logic board LED's until reset·to alert someone of a problem.

·····The program also includes·a main menu for the LCD·consisting of "Run", "Maintenance", "History", and "Diagnostic".· In the maintenance menu it allows me to lock the system, so I can remove it from the bowl for cleaning without flooding the house.· I can then reset the refill counter when unlocking the system for normal service.· In the history menu it displays how many times it has refilled itself·between·cleanings and how many times since a hard reset.· I wrote the program to write the lifetime refills to eeprom, but have not decided to allow it yet, so the required code to do·so is commented out.· The diagnostic· menu provides the ability to manually open and close the water valve and and the ability to manually check the float operation by observing the LED's on the logic board.

···· I had a LOT of fun building this project and learned a lot more than I thought I would.··The whole thing is probably overkill, but it frees me from having to worry about keeping my pets watered.· A second version will be in the works·someday and I would like to include pet detection with IR sensors and pet id with RFID tags.· This would allow me to track the frequency·and duration of visits to the water bowl and I can keep better track of their health by monitoring their water intake.· I have just started tinkering with the Propeller and I may decide to make a propeller powered water bowl.

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"If it ain't broke, your not trying"
1632 x 1232 - 478K
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1632 x 1232 - 513K

Comments

  • ihmechihmech Posts: 179
    edited 2010-07-27 00:49
    Sorry, forgot to add the program code.· Here it is.

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    "If it ain't broke, your not trying"
  • logan996logan996 Posts: 281
    edited 2010-07-27 15:52
    where do you live in indiana? i live in huntington county.

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    "WOAH! that wasn't supposed to happen!"
  • ihmechihmech Posts: 179
    edited 2010-07-27 17:14
    I too live in Huntington county. Small world.

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    "If it ain't broke, your not trying"
  • Shawn LoweShawn Lowe Posts: 635
    edited 2010-07-27 19:46
    This is a way cool project! Inspiring!

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    Shawn Lowe


    When all else fails.....procrastinate!
  • sam_sam_samsam_sam_sam Posts: 2,286
    edited 2010-07-28 00:29
    ihmech
    ·
    ·I had a LOT of fun building this project and learned a lot more than I thought I would.··The whole thing is probably overkill,

    You might think this project is·an "OVER KILL"· but the more important thing is how much you learn

    What a great project ·smile.gif·smile.gif·smile.gif·thump up

    I have thought of doing the same thing I have one those watering bowl for my dog

    Can you post a parts list of what parts and where to get them· thanks for your help· smile.gif

    You could use a DS1302 time chip to keep your History I can help with how to write to the memory of that chip you just need a Super Cap on the chip

    1· fard· cap would hold the data ·for weeks

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    ·Now wanting to learn Spin· Thanks for any·idea.gif·that you may have and all of your time finding them smile.gif

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    Sam

    Post Edited (sam_sam_sam) : 7/28/2010 12:43:43 AM GMT
  • ihmechihmech Posts: 179
    edited 2010-07-28 00:51
    Thanks for the comment Shawn. Everyone at home laughed at me while I was working on this project and I think they thought it was a pipe dream that I wouldn't finish. But, they quit laughing when they saw the finished product and got to see it work. Now they are facinated with it. I've been gathering ideas for the second version and will probably start working on it this winter.

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    "If it ain't broke, your not trying"
  • ihmechihmech Posts: 179
    edited 2010-07-28 02:40
    Here is another picture and some schematics.· I did make some last minute changes to some of the wiring and it may or may not be reflected in the schematics.
    As far as a parts...I used a lot of stuff I already had.· I did get some stuff from my local Radio Shack, they're slim pickin's anymore, but they do have some basic stuff.· I used a board of education only because I think I have four of them (is it bad when you can't remember what you have?) and it was easy.· I used a BS2 and quickly found out how to "trim the fat" on my program, not a lot of space to work with on large programs but on the second version I will either·use a stamp with more memory or use a Prop. if I ever learn the one I have.

    The voltage reg's and the three wire cables came from Parallax.· I couldn't sorce a optocoupler for the battery backup circuit locally and didn't want to order one.· So I did what I had to do....make one!turn.gif·· All I did to make it was purchace one IR led and one IR transistor from RS.· I coupled them together end to end =0 0= with a piece of black heatshrink.· I tested it before installing and it works great!!!· It's kinda bulky(about an inch long)·for an optocoupler, but it works when you don't have one!

    I can try to come up with a detailed parts list (should have kept track of it).· I built this in my spare time a couple hours a night after working 10 hour days at work for about 3 months.· Never thought of keeping track of parts, didn't think anyone would take interest in it.

    The float switch setup is not my favorite, but it works 99.5% of the time.· The second version will either use two sets of terminals working on water conductivity or I will just use an e-tape liquid level sensor.· The sensor looks to be the most reliable but is more than what I want to spend, but then...I did put a lot of pricey parts in a "pet water bowl", why stop now.smilewinkgrin.gif

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    "If it ain't broke, your not trying"
  • parskoparsko Posts: 501
    edited 2010-07-28 12:19
    Ihmech,

    May I offer the following suggestion for your 2nd revision?

    Search EBAY for: 12VDC Electric Solenoid Valve

    Example of the exact one I bought back in April for the exact same purpose:
    cgi.ebay.com/1-4-Plastic-12VDC-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-Water-Air-/110514643498?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19bb2fa22a

    I would guess that you are going to have some mechanical issues down the road (servo driving a mechanical valve). But, I like the overall setup you have!!!!

    My project is waiting for the queue to open before I can get to it. I did get as far as to build a drive circuit for the solenoid. It opens and closes with a simple toggle switch. Mine, too, is hooked up via the fridge water supply (after my reverse osmosis filter).

    Good luck!

    -Parsko
  • ihmechihmech Posts: 179
    edited 2010-07-28 12:58
    parsko said...
    Ihmech,

    May I offer the following suggestion for your 2nd revision?

    Search EBAY for: 12VDC Electric Solenoid Valve

    Example of the exact one I bought back in April for the exact same purpose:
    cgi.ebay.com/1-4-Plastic-12VDC-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-Water-Air-/110514643498?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19bb2fa22a

    I would guess that you are going to have some mechanical issues down the road (servo driving a mechanical valve).
    Thanks for the suggestions Parsko!· I originally tried to find a solenoid valve, but could not locate one at the time.· I do want to get rid of as much of the mechanical aspects as possible in the second version.· But, will probably still use a servo valve for an emergency shut down if the solenoid should fail.· At first I found this project kinda silly, but it's interesting and encouraging to find others that have wanted to do the same, now its not so silly.· Thanks!!

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    "If it ain't broke, your not trying"


    "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy"
  • parskoparsko Posts: 501
    edited 2010-07-28 15:00
    No problem. I've been working on automating all of my pet stuff for a long time. That solenoid I mentioned is Normally Off. So, power loss is no problem, your pets just get thirsty! That's why I chose it. It's a bit better for a microcontroller too, since you don't have the servo overhead to worry about, just on/off and timing of on/off. The problem with the servo does not go away, I think. When it loses power, it will just hold where it is (I recall my RC cars doing circles and/or running into my parents vehicles when the batteries died!). I also placed an inline shutoff (petcock) just before the solenoid. I have this off a Tee that supplies water to my fridge. That valve is off now, while I wait to get back to this project. All those valves and fittings can be found at Home Depot!

    Automating pets is fun. They are easier to deal with than humans! Poo, food, water, "LET ME OUT" is about it, right? Oh, and pet me, love me, give me all of your attention too!

    -Parsko
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,256
    edited 2010-07-28 16:45
    GREAT project! Re overkill, no such thing. If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing! Well done, be proud!

    BTW, you're ahead of me. I have yet to call anything a "finished project". I have lots of unfinished projects that still need some tweakin'...

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    ·"If you build it, they will come."
  • logan996logan996 Posts: 281
    edited 2010-07-29 17:12
    Look at this: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17844 it could be extremly usefull messsage me what you think

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    "WOAH! that wasn't supposed to happen!"
  • ihmechihmech Posts: 179
    edited 2010-07-29 19:10
    Hey thanks logan996! Nice sensor, I'm going to look at it closer, but it may be too bulky for my project. Plus I would need two of them since I need to read an empty and full level. I saved the website in my Fav. menu. Never heard of them before, I'm looking forward to checking their site out. Thanks!

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    "If it ain't broke, your not trying"


    "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy"
  • ihmechihmech Posts: 179
    edited 2010-07-29 19:14
    I'm really leaning on the idea of using a Prop. chip for the second version. The only problem is that I haven't spent much time with the Prop. that I have. I think it would simplify programing, I just need to start learning. I am going to the expo in Norwalk, OH. next month, hopefully I can learn some stuff and get some tips!

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    "If it ain't broke, your not trying"


    "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy"
  • ihmechihmech Posts: 179
    edited 2010-07-29 19:29
    parsko said...
    Ihmech,

    May I offer the following suggestion for your 2nd revision?

    Search EBAY for: 12VDC Electric Solenoid Valve

    Example of the exact one I bought back in April for the exact same purpose:
    cgi.ebay.com/1-4-Plastic-12VDC-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-Water-Air-/110514643498?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19bb2fa22a

    -parsko

    I just bought three of those solenoid valves.· Don't know why I bought three, but I'm sure I'll find something to use them for.turn.gif
    Thanks for the find!!

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    "If it ain't broke, your not trying"


    "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy"
  • ihmechihmech Posts: 179
    edited 2011-01-06 09:03
    I have updated the software on this project and the new software can be found by searching "Automatic Pet Fountain X" Thanks for looking!
  • Spiral_72Spiral_72 Posts: 791
    edited 2011-01-12 17:56
    It looks like you found your solenoid, but if it helps anyone else..... The home improvement and hardware stores have several sizes of solenoids in the lawn and garden section or plumbing. They are used for sprinklers and pond fountains. If memory serves me correctly they are 12VDC.... .and they have the transformer/wallwart there too if you need it. Both pieces are not a lot of money.

    Just one of those things I saw and tried to keep in the back of my mind for just such an instance.
  • ihmechihmech Posts: 179
    edited 2011-02-04 09:56
    I never thought about checking with my local hardware store. I sometimes forget to check locally for such things thinking that "they would never have anything like that". Thanks for the info! I'll probably look around at the hardware for a nice size wallwart for APF2 (prop powered!) The solenoid valves I bought require 500mA and I want to make sure there is enough power reserve if the food dispenser happens to startup while the water is refilling.

    If anyone has any ideas or suggestions for APF2 or addons for APFx(new name after major software revision, search Automatic Pet Fountain X for details) please let me know! I would love to hear anyones ideas! :)
  • sam_sam_samsam_sam_sam Posts: 2,286
    edited 2011-02-05 07:24
    The home improvement and hardware stores have several sizes of solenoids in the lawn and garden section or plumbing

    BTW sprinklers solenoids valves are 24 volt AC
  • CircuitMageCircuitMage Posts: 62
    edited 2011-03-29 09:12
    Nice. You are brave to add water to an electronics project, but looks good.
  • ihmechihmech Posts: 179
    edited 2011-03-30 17:47
    Thanks, I don't mind water and low voltage. But I'm not comfortable with line voltage and water. I've been working on plans for the second version (APF2) and have had a lot of trouble finding a 1.5A -2.0A wall wart for it. I need a 1/2 amp just to drive the water solenoid valve and need about 300mA for the feeder servos. I really don't want to cause a brownout to the controller if it happens to be refilling the water dish the same time it's filling the food dish. Although, I could take care of it with software and not allow refilling and feeding to happen the same time thus being able to use a smaller power supply.
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