Max232
Jonathan Holle
Posts: 48
Hi all,
Is it possible to use a max232 in order to connect the propeller to the pc knowing that I have a 5volt output in my propeller board. Is it any risk of damaging the propeller ? thanks [noparse];)[/noparse]
Is it possible to use a max232 in order to connect the propeller to the pc knowing that I have a 5volt output in my propeller board. Is it any risk of damaging the propeller ? thanks [noparse];)[/noparse]
Comments
than the Max232 and operate off of 3.3 volts. You can directly interface the propeller
to them without dropping resistors.
Russ
So all you need is a 1k resistor.
I'm using this circuit for all my programming and interface to the propeller and it works fine.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
www.smarthome.viviti.com/propeller
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Connect T1IN to the serial output pin and R1OUT to the serial input pin, on the Propeller. T1OUT is the RS-232 output and R1IN is the RS-232 input. See the diagram on page 12 of the data sheet. Don't leave unused inputs floating, the MAX3222 doesn't have pull-downs like the MAX3232. You need to add them.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Post Edited (Leon) : 7/24/2010 9:39:58 PM GMT
V+ and V- capacitor connections are in the diagram.
There isn't an RST pin.
Pull-downs are resistors, as in the MAX3232 diagram on the same page.
Post your schematic if you want it checked.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
www.smarthome.viviti.com/files/documents/Propeller_v5.pdf
This is a big schematic and you won't need most of it, but check out the max232 part on the left side. You can leave out the leds if you like, though they are rather handy for debugging. There are two ports, but essentially it is just a 1k resistor. One is female and one male - just note the pinouts there as pins 2 and 3 are swapped.
Note also the max232 power supply pins - they appear over in the 5V regulator section (pins 15 and 16).
If you can get that working, then drop in a max3232 or similar instead.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
www.smarthome.viviti.com/propeller
Post Edited (Dr_Acula) : 7/25/2010 2:42:13 AM GMT
Max3222 uses 0.1uF, and for 0.1uF the non polarised ones work out cheaper (and smaller). Probably the reason these newer chips are proving more popular.
Looking at the spec sheet datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/MAX3222-MAX3241.pdf they say pin for pin compatible so yes, just drop in 0.1uF caps, use the correct supply volts and follow the data sheet.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
www.smarthome.viviti.com/propeller
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Pin 16 should be connected to ground. I can't see why you are using Vdd, it's a CMOS supply used internally in chips. The schematic should be redrawn, as I've suggested.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
and functionally compatible with the industry-standard MAX242 and MAX232, respectively."
And then I see that the Max3222 has 18 pins. But the max232 has 16 pins, so who knows what else is different. Not "pin compatible" as they claim, anyway. The TSSOP package appears to be 20 pins. datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/MAX3222-MAX3241.pdf
I do know that the max232 is very easy to interface to the propeller. The max3232 and max3222 *probably* are very similar. And it looks like they have added pins 1 and 18 at one end. And yes, maybe you need to tie unused inputs somewhere. 4k7 is a safe bet.
I'll just stick to commenting on the max232 as I know and understand that chip. Did you say you had a max232? If so, all you need are four 1uF capacitors. Any brand/type/package of 1uF capacitors will do.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
www.smarthome.viviti.com/propeller
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
For Jonathan, when you drew up that schematic, what program did you use? It looks a bit like Eagle, and if so, the Max libraries are all there. Search eg for *max3222* (the stars are wildcards, and will sometimes find parts better than just searching for the part number)
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
www.smarthome.viviti.com/propeller
Post Edited (Jonathan Holle) : 7/25/2010 3:09:38 PM GMT
It looks OK. You don't need the 3k pulldown resistor, as you have that pin connected. I'm not sure if it is actually needed on unconnected pins, anyway, as it is shown in the diagram in the data sheet. I'm sure that it was mentioned in the body of the doc., though.
Use Vcc or 3.3V in schematics, not Vdd. The latter is a CMOS supply inside a chip, like Vss (Gnd).
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Post Edited (Leon) : 7/25/2010 6:11:58 PM GMT
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
C1+ : 5,4
V+ : 6,9
C1 :- 1,7
C2+ : 3,8
C2- : 3,8
V- : 7
T2out : 6,85
T1out : 7,2
R1in : 4
R1out : 3,3
T2in : 0,4
Try switching T1IN between high and low, and check that T1OUT goes -ve and +ve.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
A scope is very useful for debugging that sort of thing. You can check timing if you send 'U' continuously - alternating 1s and 0s - and even use a counter/timer.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Post Edited (Leon) : 7/25/2010 8:09:09 PM GMT
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM