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Anyone interested in co-building a robotic arm? — Parallax Forums

Anyone interested in co-building a robotic arm?

DgswanerDgswaner Posts: 795
edited 2014-12-25 18:05 in Robotics
I'm interesting in building a robotic arm similar to those found at lynxmotion. But controlled by a propeller or basic stamp. I feel that I could build the mechanics of the arm pretty well but I would definitely need help with the software to run it, and the circuits for the motors.

I have a CNC router and can produce the parts, although my CNC is a Hobby CNC, so I can only cut plastic and soft metal. I'm Fluent in CAD and Sketchup. and can take a design from paper to actual part very easily.

I would like to build a robotic arm out of Sintra (expanded PVC) or HDPE. This would keep the cost and weight to a minimum and also make it easy to machine.

I have about 25 Identical stepper motors that I can use for this project. and I have a limited but cheap source of Sinatra, and HDPE.

I'm suggesting that we all input our thoughts on the best design, make a prototype, and then once we feel we are at a usable level, make identical robotic arms for everyone in the group.

I would like to keep the entire project under $50.00 which I think is very doable, if we use the motors that I have.

I'd like to keep the number in the group to about 5 give or take. I want the project to be open source and plan to publish the project to the forum once completed.

let me know if your interested.

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DGSwaner

"When in doubt, use C4" - Jamie Hyneman, Myth Buster

Post Edited (Dgswaner) : 5/11/2010 4:04:54 AM GMT
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Comments

  • ercoerco Posts: 20,255
    edited 2010-05-11 00:38
    Interesting idea. Many different arm designs to consider, how best to get the motion to the joint is always a popular debate. Cables, gears, direct motor drive, lots to consider. I have also been accumulating robot arm motors, but mine are Pittman DC gearmotors with extremely low gearing. Move-a-mountain kind of gearing. Simple to drive, but feedback needed, pots or encoders. When I get to it, I plan to convert one to a giant servo by adding a feedback pot and the guts from a servo.

    AFA materials, HDPE is cheap, but you can't glue to it. ABS, HIS, & PVC glue well. I wonder if plastic plumbing pipes (ABS or PVC) would be good for your design. Home Depot cheap, and easy to source. People build some amazing things out of PVC pipe and all the various joints.

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  • GWJaxGWJax Posts: 267
    edited 2010-05-11 00:49
    Interesting, Count me in on this one.. I was thinking about how I was going to do this when I build an alien from the torso on up with a custom sculpted head, arms and torso. I will be making a mold after the sculpting and will pour it in a flexible silicone gray tone. I also want to add as much facial movements an finger movements that I can install in a small cavity.

    What type of stepper motors are you using? I can design a great board for the controller and have it connected to the BS series of Stamps. The BS2px is my favorite of the 2 series, I'm still learning Spin but at slow motion rate so I don't miss anything and have to re-read it again.

    Just let me know if you want me in on this project.

    Jax

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  • DgswanerDgswaner Posts: 795
    edited 2010-05-11 03:46
    @erco I have a really good idea of the type of arm I want, and how to build it. (not sure it will work) but as this is a group project I thought I would fine out what everyone wanted to use this for, or what abilities they want it to have and go from there. I'm a little apposed to direct drive in this situation, stepper motors are heavy which means you need stronger joints and more of counter weights....not that I'm an expert by any means. sounds like you know a lot more than me about it and would be good to have aboard. oh and BTW thanks I bought roborealm at the woot price. I ran across one of your posts that mentioned it.

    @GWJAx your in! the steppers I have are Hurst steppers, I'll post a picture of them asap.


    oops addes them to the wrong MSG, the gripper was cut out of 1/4" Sintra. the other is of course the motor, Hurst Prinston, Ind. RPM Model PAS. 5V DC 8.5 W. P/N sp-2109
    and have 6 wires. I honestly have no idea if these are good for this application. but it's what I have.

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    DGSwaner

    "When in doubt, use C4" - Jamie Hyneman, Myth Buster

    Post Edited (Dgswaner) : 5/11/2010 4:10:09 AM GMT
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,255
    edited 2010-05-11 04:32
    CAD & CNC are great, once you know exactly what you want and what works, which is usually about the third generation design from my experience. I'm a scratch builder, and for me, all the fun is in the prototyping and early stages of refinement. Don't underestimate the usefulness of hand fabrication with a bandsaw & drill press, that's a step that too many people try to rush through or eliminate entirely.

    Personally, I would start at the claw/gripper and work backwards, since the forces, torques, and motor size/weight are smallest there. Then increase the motor sizes and gear ratios proportionally as you work backwards to the shoulder pivot.

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    ·"If you build it, they will come."
  • GWJaxGWJax Posts: 267
    edited 2010-05-11 23:13
    This is the only link I found in regards to the motors. If this is correct let me know and I'll start the electronics in getting it to operate. If not please send me the link so I can get the correct data sheet for these motors. http://www.hurst-motors.com/paspbsdirectdrive.html
    with out a gear box installed which yours do not have, the motor can withstand 200 oz/in

    I agree with erco about starting with the gripper and working backwards due the the forces etc...

    Jax

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    If a robot has a screw then it must be romoved and hacked into..
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,255
    edited 2010-05-12 00:23
    I have also considered hacking an old Armatron to add motors, one per axis. On one hand, it's a shame to bypass the best part of the toy, namely how one motor does EVERYTHING. On the other hand, it's an amazing piece of engineering and all the linkages are all done. Somebody clever could mount servos or motors with feedback pots to the internal mechanism. It would be limited in how much weight it could pick up, but eliminating the slip clutches would help.

    A magazine article 20 years ago showed how someone "computer controlled" an Armatron by moving the existing mechanical joysticks with multiple servos. Talk about going the long way around!

    The OWI Edge robot arm is a beautiful kit, but I think it would be hard to modify for servos or feedback pots.

    IMHO, probably the best way to quickly get an arm working is simply to use a bunch of servos connected together. One servo per joint, connected to the next via a stiff link. Again, start with a lightweight servo for the gripper and using progressively larger servos as you work backwards. Different servos use different gear ratios; I think higher reduction servos would be best for strength, repeatability, durability, and holding a specified position without sending pulses constantly.

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    ·"If you build it, they will come."
  • DgswanerDgswaner Posts: 795
    edited 2010-05-12 03:38
    I got an Armatron for Christmas one year. love it. I tried to automate it via a joystick, failed miserably, but I was only about 10. I Still have one I bought a while back, yes ingenious design.

    GW, That looks like the exact motors. pricey little suckers! I forget what I paid for them but it wasn't anywhere near that price.

    I agree with you on the top down design, I have already been looking into gripper designs, the one I posted functions pretty well, but needs to be tweaked a little.

    what are we thinking as far as over all design, I basically want to build a enlarged version of the Armatron. but not part by part.

    what are we looking for as far as over all specs? reach, strength, speed?

    is there a site or tool we can use to better communicate?

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    DGSwaner

    "When in doubt, use C4" - Jamie Hyneman, Myth Buster
  • Mike GMike G Posts: 2,702
    edited 2010-05-12 03:57
    My 2 cents... Determine your DOF and workspace first. This will give you a good idea segment lengths and joint forces. Keep in mind that the gripper posted translates in the x axis. It's not a big deal but you'll want a function to describe the translation vs angular position.
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,255
    edited 2010-05-12 15:24
    Weight & stiffness of each link in the arm will be critical for best utility. I·think I've decided·what I'm going to use for my arm links. Cylindrical, very light, very stiff, very cheap. Free, in fact:



    Don't laugh: aluminum cans from Red Bull drinks... so the arm may look a bit like the OWI trainer:

    owi-arm-trainer-robot-kit.jpg

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  • GrampsGramps Posts: 117
    edited 2010-05-12 16:43
    Please keep me posted especially if you'all take this discussion to another site.
    I'm working on an arm, too, but it's way below your level, so I just want follow the development posts and try to learn something.....
    Gramps

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  • Spiral_72Spiral_72 Posts: 791
    edited 2010-05-12 20:56
    I have access to SolidWorks (Use it every day all day) if that will help you any. I could pretty easily lay this out in 3D and tell any problem areas. Let me know if you're interested. I'm a little slow right now, just because so much work is going on. Solidworks has a free viewer so you could see the model as well, then when it's all done, you get the DXF's.

    Between Sintra and HDPE? I THINK I'd use Sintra just because it's slightly more rigid and you'd probably have a better chance with adhesives. Any chance you could use ABS instead? It visually about the same as Sintra, but MUCH more rigid and about the same price....... as long as you're talking 1/4" material. If you are planning to use 1/2" thick or thereabout, I'd probably use HDPE. All these materials won't take a thread very well.... not really. The best thing is adhesive or a wood screw...... yea, I'm an expert on my opinions [noparse]:)[/noparse]

    If it helps any, I built a robot arm out of 1/4" blue core foam for a prototype / work out the design. Before you laugh, it was amazingly strong. It'd lift up to about 8oz. I tried to upload the video (taken with my cellphone) but it was some weird QT format and the Forums wouldn't take it.

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  • DgswanerDgswaner Posts: 795
    edited 2010-05-12 22:45
    one of the ways I had though about making the shoulder and elbow joint was to use threaded rod, as a threaded part climbed the rod closer to the joint it would push the next part of the arm up... or let it down. this would put most of the weight on bearings and would actually over kill for what a servo in the gripper could hold. I started an Arm with this configuration a while back but just didn't have the equipment to make it work. I can post a picture.

    @Gramps I think you are giving me, at least, way too much credit.

    @spiral if you want in we could use the help. I prefer sketchup for design, but I can't go from sketchup to CNC very well. sketchup can't export arch's or poly lines very well. so perhaps when we get closer, If you could do a model in SW to verify we have everything in order. getting DXF would save a lot of time in the CAM process.

    I have Friday off and plan to do a test on my concept and will hopefully be able to do a first draft model in sketchup.

    @Mike G if I was smart enough to respond to your post I would.... I get the work area. the rest went over my head.

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    DGSwaner

    "When in doubt, use C4" - Jamie Hyneman, Myth Buster
  • Spiral_72Spiral_72 Posts: 791
    edited 2010-05-13 15:31
    Ah, if there's five other people interested you can send the kit to them. Anything I do would be for fun and learning [noparse]:)[/noparse]

    I included an image of my robot arm model. The base is 3/4" MDF with a 4" lazy susan (thrust) bearing for the rotating base. There's a servo and coupling underneath as well as two bearings to handle side loads. I pivot the shoulder joint in the mid-section so I can counterweight the far end with lead. It lets me use the small standard sized RC servos I had.

    Everything rides on bearings, so the servos only see rotational loads. The actual arm is 1/4" blue core foam with a magnet for a hand because I didn't have a gripper.


    It's FYI. You don't have to use my design although I THINK it would scale well. You'd just use more lead.

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  • Spiral_72Spiral_72 Posts: 791
    edited 2010-05-13 15:46
    The threaded rod thing is a good idea. If I picture it correctly it would be interesting to implement and give you plenty of mechanical advantage in the form of gear reduction. Both the driven end and the nut end would have to pivot.... again, if I picture it right.

    The steppers might have a good chance of directly driving the arm at the pivot points like I did. It's simple and cheap, but what I noticed was the arm will bounce when stopping abruptly or when it travels over the center of gravity. The threaded rod drive probably wouldn't have that problem. Timing pulleys and belts would be an excellent drive system, although expensive from the parts I've seen.

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    "puff"...... Smile, there went another one.
  • Oldbitcollector (Jeff)Oldbitcollector (Jeff) Posts: 8,091
    edited 2010-05-13 15:51
    This is interesting... but I'm interested in the control...

    Gramps has got me intrigued with the idea of designing the controls for his arm.
    I'm picturing a coat sleeve with attached glove you could slip your arm into. (A strap across the chest to hold it in place)
    I'm actually thinking that a couple of accelerometers might be able to be used?
    (Think: Gramps shadowbot x10 [noparse]:)[/noparse]

    OBC

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  • BeanBean Posts: 8,129
    edited 2010-05-14 00:38
    There was a toy called "Mobile Armatron" that had a wired remote. This would be ALOT easier to control with a microcontroller.

    Bean

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  • GrampsGramps Posts: 117
    edited 2010-05-14 16:07
    Threaded rod like this?

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  • ercoerco Posts: 20,255
    edited 2010-05-14 19:13
    Gramps is already on the case!

    FWIW: Threaded rod=Leadscrew.

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    ·"If you build it, they will come."
  • zappmanzappman Posts: 418
    edited 2010-05-14 21:32
    Hello DGSwaner,

    I would like to get in on your project building a robotic arm similar to those found at lynxmotion.

    I had been looking at “The Big Gripper” at www.budgetrobotics.com/shop/?cat=159 the kit with a servo is $26.95 just for the gripper. A set of the fingers is just $2.95. The problem is it just the gripper not a whole arm and has no electronics other than the servo.

    I just took a look at the lynxmotion arms they look great and hope your project turns out great too.

    I don’t have much experience with the mechanics or software, but I do with wiring and electronics.

    Please let me if I can get in on this project.

    Regards,

    zappman

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    Post Edited (zappman) : 5/16/2010 10:20:04 PM GMT
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  • GrampsGramps Posts: 117
    edited 2010-05-14 22:02
    zappman, where is the "finger" photo?
    Gramps

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  • zappmanzappman Posts: 418
    edited 2010-05-14 23:38
    Gramps said...
    zappman, where is the "finger" photo?
    Gramps

    Hi Gramps,

    The best picture I can find is on page 8 of the manual located at www.budgetrobotics.com/manuals/biggripper/biggripper.pdf, the fingers are shown in black.

    If i bought this gripper, instead of putting tubing on the fingers to cushion them as recommended in the manual , I was going to dip them in "tool grip" "plastic dip" www.amazon.com/Plastic-Dip-Intl-11602-6-Plasti-Dip/dp/B000ZN1T16/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_c

    Regards,

    zappman
  • DgswanerDgswaner Posts: 795
    edited 2010-05-17 05:36
    I got a chance to do some prototyping tonight, not as much as I had wanted to but, life happens.


    you'll have to use a little imagination, but the concept should be easy to see once you know whats going on.

    The Right Picture:

    Imagine in place of my hand, there is a connector with a joint holding the angled rod this connector will ride the threaded rod back and forth.
    the other end of the angled piece is connect to another part of the arm, much like the piece on the bottom. as the angled rod slides back and forth it opens and closes the joint.

    middle Picture:
    This part of the arm is mostly finished, the rods will be cut to length, the two outer bars will be smooth rods, and only the middle will be threaded. a stepper will be connected to the middle rod. and the "connector" will move back and forth on the 3 rods. driven by the threaded rod. as the connector gets closer to the joint, the angled push rod, opens the joint and pushes the other part of the arm straight.

    The next part of the arm will be just about like the one here and shown as only one side.

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    DGSwaner

    "When in doubt, use C4" - Jamie Hyneman, Myth Buster

    Post Edited (Dgswaner) : 5/17/2010 5:59:13 AM GMT
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  • RS_JimRS_Jim Posts: 1,762
    edited 2014-12-25 13:22
    What ever happened with this arm project?
    Jim
  • ercoerco Posts: 20,255
    edited 2014-12-25 18:05
    Dunno, as this thread is 5-1/2 years old. Arm looks good in pics, if somewhat heavy. Styrene & steel rods.
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