Battery Monitor / Motor Monitor
bdickens
Posts: 110
This may be a common question, but I can't seem to find a good source for info. So if someone has it, aim me at it and i'll go digging (or my son will)
For his summer project, my son has decided to replace my boats electronics with an integrated solution. Sounds easy enough, but it's a bit more complex. The boat is electric powered (Etek) at 48V (4 - 12v batteries). In addition to the simple stuff (water speed, ground speed, and temperature) he would like to add a sensor for battery charge (state of all 4 batteries individually and together) and motor draw. I started to look for threads and drew a blank in propeller. But I figure some of you may know better sites and simple circuits that could be interfaced to his prop chip.
Thanks
For his summer project, my son has decided to replace my boats electronics with an integrated solution. Sounds easy enough, but it's a bit more complex. The boat is electric powered (Etek) at 48V (4 - 12v batteries). In addition to the simple stuff (water speed, ground speed, and temperature) he would like to add a sensor for battery charge (state of all 4 batteries individually and together) and motor draw. I started to look for threads and drew a blank in propeller. But I figure some of you may know better sites and simple circuits that could be interfaced to his prop chip.
Thanks
Comments
If you're charging and discharging the batteries in series, there's not much point to measuring them individually.
But if you really need to, I suppose one easy way to do that is to measure from ground to the positive terminal of each battery and then doing some math to figure out each battery's voltage.
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Thanks for the suggestions. I'll start there.
Look at this app:
http://www.pulsedpower.net/Applets/Electronics/SigmaDeltaADC/SigmaDeltab.html
if you set:· R1=4k, R2=100k, R3=Not used, R4=5k
then the range is -6 to 75 volts, which should be pretty good...
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Lots of propeller based products in stock at affordable prices.
Funny, I'm working on my Prop based charging controller for mys system today.
Jonathan
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Leon Heller
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Sorry to disagree, but voltage isn't a really good indicator of SOC (state of charge). This isn't just my opinion, it is widely held by battery makers and users. I can say from my personal experiences of liviing off of batteries that it is true. (10 years living aboard and a year living off grid). Off gridders usually track amp hours for a rough idea, then check SG (specific gravity). Battery temp, charges in and out all contribute to the inaccuarcy of voltage.
Leon,
You'd have to have one for each cell to really monitor the overall health, as there can be quite a difference between cells, especailly if they haven't been equalized for a while. Although in a marine setting this is usually less of a factor, as the motiuon of the boat prevents striation of the electrolyte.
Jonathan
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for an example, I often see a night time voltage on my battery bank (12V, 1200aH, 10 * 6V batteries in series/parallel) of 12.3V or even lower, in spite of the fact that I have used less than 100aH out of the bank since it was charged. If you look at a voltage SOC chart, if my batteries *really* were that low (~65% charge), I'd freak. Think of the Star Trek red alert noise going off in my head. My batteries cost me almost a grand, so I baby them and never take out more than 20%.
Boats usually do have a voltmeter. There are a bunch of monitoring systems out there. I have a marine monitor here at the house that I have been using while I build my own, better monitor. It tracks amp hours in and out. It does pretty well at giving you a good idea of state of charge, but over time the amp hour tracking gets a little off. What I do is charge my bank to about 90% daily for a few days, then charge fully. As I don't have enough solar to run my place, I have to run a generator, so this scheme is a decent compromise between fuel consumption and battery care.
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about for some RC LiPo batteries. Maybe your method is specific to Lead-Acid because everything I have read
about LiPos suggests just watching the Voltage curve, both for charging and discharging.
Is this Lead-Acid only data we are talking about here?
-Jack
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Leon - I'm hoping that isn't needed, but candidly, I have been looking for a way to measure salinity so if you know a clever, waterproof way to measure the hydrometer position, I am there.
The batteries are deep cycle, lead acid. They ONLY charge at the dock and through the small solar trickle charge. But they are also the sole source of power for the boat. We get about 7hp at the prop. It's a modified outboard ala the Glen-L designs.
I could probably buy something, but that defeats his project. He wants to learn, I just don't want to paddle if he scews up. Tracking amp/hrs would be nice. I'd be modestly happy if I could have enough data to predict my available amp hours. ( to someone's post, No jump starts in the ocean). Also an indication of how long I can run at what speeds.
Keep the thoughts coming
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Jonathan
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www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9028
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--RvnPhnx
Jonathan / Rayman - Will do. We have more than enough temperature sensors !
GPS synchronizing RTC. Another thought that had not occurred to me but it's on the whiteboard. That may be just as useful on my summer project as opposed to his. Another excellent thought. (we both tackle projects starting on June 1 with the goal of completing by August 1).
Thank you all. Keep the thoughts coming
If you locate the temp. sensor on the battery case, make sure it is well insulated on the side away from the battery. You can also strap it to a battery terminal. I'm actually working on a glass tube that sits in the electolyte. Otherwise enviromental factors can set your temp. comp. way off.
If you do go the amp hour route, remember that battery charging is only 70- 80% effecient. So, if your amp hour meter reads that you have used 100aH, you will need to replace between 120-130 aH to recharge. During your first few runs you need to verify the SG with a hydrometer, the adjust your effeciency compennsation accordingly. Get a temp. compensated hydrometer like the EX Red SP101. Cheap and works great, no need to manually compensate for temp.
Jonathan
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