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Project ideas for cooling my house. — Parallax Forums

Project ideas for cooling my house.

DgswanerDgswaner Posts: 795
edited 2010-05-13 02:11 in General Discussion
I live in a 3 story (2 + basement) home which faces West, and I live in Utah, during the summer/fall I get a good dose of sun which causes my house to heat up quite a bit. The main level stairs are open to the upper level, which causes the upper level to get unbearably hot in the late evening. which translates to us cranking the AC costing us as much at $200 a month in the summer. The heat also comes down from the attic as well as, even though it is properly insulated. My attic gets hot enough to melt plastic (my router /cry). I have a few ideas that I want to implement to reduce heat, but I'd be curious to hear your suggestions. Mostly I would like to find a way of using the heat (energy) in the attic to help with the solution. This is a serious problem that I need to address, you input would greatly appreciated.

in process or definite plans:
Plant shade trees, will be beneficial in future years, doesn't help with the attic.
Moving our Family Room to the basement, (already done) helps not hanging out up stairs, our basement is as much as 20 deg. cooler in the late afternoon.

To address the attic heat I want to install fans (preferably solar) to blow the hot air out of the attic.
I've considered making the floor registers automatic so the AC only goes to critical areas or occupied areas, we do this manually to some extent already.

Thanks for your input, FYI out of the box ideas are welcome!

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DGSwaner

"When in doubt, use C4" - Jamie Hyneman, Myth Buster

Comments

  • W9GFOW9GFO Posts: 4,010
    edited 2010-04-20 21:26
    Dgswaner said...
    To address the attic heat I want to install fans (preferably solar) to blow the hot air out of the attic.

    Solar is great but I think you need something that will move high volumes of air out of your attic. We have a large (and loud) attic fan that kicks on at 80 degrees, the attic still gets quite hot on sunny days. We could probably use a couple more of them.

    I also think that adding insulation is a good investment.

    A while back I saw these reflective films that you put up in your attic against the roof. The idea is that the heat is reflected back to the roof to keep the attic cooler. Don't know if they work. I wonder just how much hotter the roof would get.

    Rich H

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  • Beau SchwabeBeau Schwabe Posts: 6,568
    edited 2010-04-20 23:22
    Dgswaner,

    Your West wall is basically a trombe wall without a vent. If you create a variation of a trombe wall where in the summer time the INPUT vent could come from the 'cool basement' or East end of the house, and the OUTPUT vent is allowed to escape into the attic, it should create a positive air flow into the attic to remove the heat. In the winter time the INPUT vent should come from the West end of the house, and the OUTPUT vent should also escape into the West end of the house. The trombe wall does not need to be thick at all... think double paned glass window... The trombe wall effect is created between the Brick of the house and the drywall, or a single pane window creating an interior upward airflow of heat that hugs the window. If insulation is present (between Brick and drywall) it worsens the effect because it dampens the airflow... in your case there is no airflow because essentially it's a sealed chamber or single pane window.

    What color are the bricks? If there are bricks, that is where most of your heat is retained, and then later transferred into the house.

    Can you post a picture of your West wall?

    Remember this... you already have the Solar Power... it's just in the form of Heat. Put it to good use in your favor.

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    Beau Schwabe

    IC Layout Engineer
    Parallax, Inc.
  • mctriviamctrivia Posts: 3,772
    edited 2010-04-20 23:41
    installing solar panels on your roof should help some. The reason is the energy that would have gone to heating your attic is either reflected off or turned into electricity. actually only 20% or so of the energy collected by the cells goes to electrcity the rest is heat so mirors would actually work better to keep cooler but you get no electricity out.


    if you have a well you can do this: http://lifehacker.com/290684/get-free-air-conditioning-with-a-diy-heat-exchanger

    installing a large vent fan in the attic with a cheap thermostat to control it should help a lot also. Since the thermostat can not likely power the fan directly have it run a relay to control the circuit.

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    Lots of propeller based products in stock at affordable prices.
  • bill190bill190 Posts: 769
    edited 2010-04-21 01:51
    For the future maybe...

    Following is a gizmo which makes small amounts of electricity from heat in the air. For now they are just using these to power electronic devices, but in the future?

    http://www.energyharvestingjournal.com/articles/thermoelectric-ambient-energy-harvester-00001437.asp?sessionid=1

    Here is the company web site and a bit on how this works...

    http://www.perpetuapower.com/technology.htm
  • kf4ixmkf4ixm Posts: 529
    edited 2010-04-21 12:41
    i remember once seeing a version of the trombe wall, in which the bottom and top of the wall was vented both to the outside, the suns rays heated the sun facing wall, and through convection, drew cool air from the bottom and forced the hotter air out through the top vent. the outer substrate being black (separated from the house by 4"-6" i think)·captured the heat from the sun and magnified the convection effect enough to power some small dc fans set up as a low power generator/ in-wall wind farm. i don't think it made much electricity, but the proof of concept was definatly made. in the winter, both vents were closed to trap the air and the winter sun heated the air inside between the black substrate outside wall and created a heat blanket for that side of the house.

    Post Edited (kf4ixm) : 4/21/2010 12:55:53 PM GMT
  • icepuckicepuck Posts: 466
    edited 2010-04-21 12:52
    The trick I use is keep the upstairs windows closed and open the basement windows and use the attic fan to pull the cool air from the basement. It works well except for really hot and muggy days.
    -dan

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    (Former) Caterpillar product support technician
  • Beau SchwabeBeau Schwabe Posts: 6,568
    edited 2010-04-21 13:16
    kf4ixm,

    What you describe is basically what happens without adequate ventilation. In the winter it is a desired effect, but in the summer time such as that for Dgswaner, it builds up unwanted heat. If you can use the convection effect from that heat buildup and vent it into the attic, you create a positive air flow to the attic, killing two birds with one stone.

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    Beau Schwabe

    IC Layout Engineer
    Parallax, Inc.
  • johnnysparksjohnnysparks Posts: 4
    edited 2010-04-21 15:32
    If you ran the A/C fan all the time on those “days” that the heat can take the paint off the wall and melt your router that would help. Try and open all the basement returns and close all supplies. 1st floor open returns and supplies. Upstairs close returns and open supplies…If the ductwork is correct you should help out your situation. ……..Yes, you will have the cost of the motor running. However, circulating the air throughout your home the A/C compressor will be not run as much=$$



    heat goes up, cold·falls down...·





    just my 3 cents



    john
  • DgswanerDgswaner Posts: 795
    edited 2010-05-10 18:49
    Thanks for the Input, I appreciate it. This year so far has rarely been over 70deg so I haven't really been able to try drawing the cool air up from the basement, but I'm sure those days are fast approaching.

    The properly vented trombe wall isn't an option, my walls are vinyl sided, 2x6 walls with batt insulation. All interior walls are finished or I would do some testing.

    My new plan, when it's hot enough is to put a couple of vents in the attic on a thermostat, to keep air moving out of the attic, and hopefully keep it several degrees cooler. In the late afternoon, when we are home, I want to see if it will draw up the cool air from the basement with just the attic fan(s). If not I want to add a large fan into the attic access (in the 2nd floor ceiling). and see if I can get some good air flow from the basement that way.

    thanks for the input, as soon as it gets hot enough I'll return and report!.

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    DGSwaner

    "When in doubt, use C4" - Jamie Hyneman, Myth Buster
  • edited 2010-05-10 19:25
    When we had our roof done, they installed some kind of vent in it that keeps the rain out but keeps the heat down which saves the shingles and we don't even notice it.· It isn't a metal one which you could get but if you get a metal one then you have to make sure they do the flashing right because you don't want water to come in your house.
  • Spiral_72Spiral_72 Posts: 791
    edited 2010-05-10 20:43
    Yea, I was going to mention a roof vent. Two houses I know of personally that the attic / upstairs got unbearably hot, both did NOT have a roof vent.

    I had one installed on my house when we replaced the roof.... It seems to have made a marked improvement.

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  • lfreezelfreeze Posts: 174
    edited 2010-05-13 00:17
    I had a similar attic heat problem here in Southern New Jersey. After investigating the attic fan I had, I discovered that it came on when the attic temperature reached around 90 degrees. I think most attic fans are inefficient for the following reasons.

    They do not come on at a lower temperature. I wanted the fan to come whenever the
    Attic temperature was above 78 degrees and seven degrees warmer than the outside temperature. This delayed the eventual attic heatup.

    On very hot days the fan would come on at 90 degrees, as the outside temperature climbed above 90. The fan remained on. I occasionally had a situation, usually late
    On a hot afternoon where the fan was actually pumping HOTTER air into the attic.

    I solved these problems by removing the fan thermostat and installing an lm34 sensor
    To monitor the attic temperature, and an lm34 to monitor the outside temperature.
    I used a stamp 2 to monitor the temperatures and turn the fan on or off, when the
    attic temperature is above 78 degrees and 7 degrees warmer than the outside
    Temperature. I used a solid state relay (thyristor) to handle the AC on/off function.

    I have this installed and working, but as with most projects, it is a work in progress.
    This spring I hope to install a fan or blower to pump outside air into the attic from
    The opposite side of the roof.

    Larry
  • edited 2010-05-13 00:33
    Have you measured the size of the vents in the attic to see if they are adequate?· I thought ours were unusually large but I asked my neighbor who was a roofer and he said they were about right and that if I closed the roof up that the wood might rot out.
  • AJ-9000AJ-9000 Posts: 52
    edited 2010-05-13 02:11
    Consider "Whole house fans" that can exchange all the air in your house in minutes. If your roof is the black Asphalt Shingles type it might pay to reroof with "cool roof shingles" to reduce the heat. The two big companys that make them are GAF and Owens Corning.
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