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UPS from the grave--looks great on Black and Blue — Parallax Forums

UPS from the grave--looks great on Black and Blue

P!-RoP!-Ro Posts: 1,189
edited 2010-04-12 04:37 in General Discussion
I found a UPS device at a local thrift store, tested it, and found it to be broken. As it didn't work I got lucky and the price came down from 20 bucks to 50 cents. The problem? I want it now to work, so I tore it apart to see what I could find. The first thing I checked was all the fuses--seemingly all functional. Then I checked the relays and none of them are stuck. When I power them on, I can even see the LED's glow that show what function they perform. The problem is it isn't doing it on it's own, whether I power it up by outlet or connect it by 12v battery. I just want it to work as a power inverter for a robot, and if I must I'll dedicate a Propeller cog to run it. I posted some rather large pictures so hopefully you can see it well, just tell me what I should try.

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Post Edited (pi'd) : 4/11/2010 11:11:46 PM GMT
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Comments

  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2010-04-06 03:18
    pi'd said...
    just tell me what I should try.
    Pitch it, and get an APC branded UPS. I've used Tripp-Lite UPS units (from Costco). IMO, they're junk. (One emitted smoke and melted its case. Tripp-Lite replaced it, but ... cripes!) Why risk your valuable data on something like that? Or your home/shop on a thermal meltdown -- or worse?

    -Phil
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    edited 2010-04-06 03:49
    First thing to do is to see if the batteries hold a charge.
  • mctriviamctrivia Posts: 3,772
    edited 2010-04-06 03:57
    first thing i would do is replace the bateries. they are almost always the part that failed on a UPS

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  • P!-RoP!-Ro Posts: 1,189
    edited 2010-04-06 04:05
    @Phil it's for my robot with that 5hp engine on it. If it catches fire I would love to see it still ride around [noparse];)[/noparse]
    Kwinn, the batteries are all but dead. One holds 1/2v, the other 1/4! I may still try to use them, but in this case it doesn't matter because I used my robot's 12v 270 amp battery. Even when connected to that or connected to the outlet it won't power on. What I'm wondering is if I can turn on a relay to get it running, however I'm too nervous to try.

    Also, I just found this. Perhaps it could help as long as the safety warnings are ignored:
    www.tripplite.com/shared/techdoc/Owners-Manual/931308.pdf

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    Pi aren't squared, pi are round. Cornbread are squared!
  • P!-RoP!-Ro Posts: 1,189
    edited 2010-04-06 05:29
    Well...I got it working! User manuals are the best sometimes. I will have to check to see if it can effectively charge my 12v battery (prob not) but nevertheless it will be great to work with. I've only just started imagining what I could put on my 150lb beast with 120v [noparse]:)[/noparse]

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    Pi aren't squared, pi are round. Cornbread are squared!
  • P!-RoP!-Ro Posts: 1,189
    edited 2010-04-07 04:28
    Well, it may work but I still have a few questions before I get it connected up to my robot.
    1. can the frame ground the power supply when I do not have it plugged to a grounded outlet? will grounding the battery to the frame as well be alright as well without interference from the AC system?
    2. When it is labeled for 425 watts, is that just when it is in the case under the advised temperature? Will fan cooling it allow me to achieve higher wattage?
    3. Which is better and less noisy, powering the PDB and other electronics off the AC outlet, or limiting the current and powering it off the 12v battery?
    Thanks for any answers. The questions don't seem too hard but may be important if I wish not to fry anything! This is new for me but I'm excited for what I can do.

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    Pi aren't squared, pi are round. Cornbread are squared!
  • bill190bill190 Posts: 769
    edited 2010-04-07 16:39
    Your question #1 sure opens a can of worms!

    Here is the answer to that question so far as safety and generators are concerned. Quite a bit to that subject...

    http://oshaprofessor.com/Portable%20Generators%20and%20OSHA%20Construction%20Standards%203-05.pdf
  • mctriviamctrivia Posts: 3,772
    edited 2010-04-07 17:24
    3 is easy. A linear regulator followed by a large cap will give you cleanest power. A switching regulator after a diode with a large cap will give better efficiency with a bit more noise. Don't plug a wall wart into the inverter that is just crazy.

    2 depends on how it is constructed. Odds are with sufficient heat sink and air flow you can increase your output. You will liky have to bypass some safety systems. There is a limit to how high you can go. What it is you will not know until you break it.

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  • logan996logan996 Posts: 281
    edited 2010-04-08 01:43
    Hahaha i was going to say your problem was that it was "assembled in mexico" lol :P and hey what does this thing do and did thoose batteries come with it?

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  • P!-RoP!-Ro Posts: 1,189
    edited 2010-04-08 02:56
    Don't get mad at the Mexicans, you know I want to smuggle there someday? Lol I tell that to my Spanish teacher and she just laughs and asks if I plan to marry a Mexican. I just say yes if she cooks well [noparse]:)[/noparse]

    What does it do? Well maybe you should look up UPS first... but I'm using it on my robot because I don't always plan to use it at home and I'm bound to run out of laptop power eventually. If I camp it wouldn't be to bad having a robot-run heater either! (Idaho gets cold)

    @bill
    "Your question #1 sure opens a can of worms!"
    Well that sure sucks, sure wouldn't want to fry that laptop. Guess there's only one way to find out? But seriously could dragging a cable help? If my 150lb robot's steel frame isn't big enough for grounding I could always make it bigger...

    mctriv--your first answer sounds good, but I may temporarily take the crazy way this weekend out of convenience but I'll create a board to improve it later to your method.

    As for the second sounds good to me, but I was thinking more along the lines of a transistor addition, if that isn't too crazy. I'll have to think about it some more. Perhaps I could try it when my Tayda order comes in, I have some spares in the order.

    Btw--like the new site Matt

    Anyway thanks for the help everyone, and have a good rest of the evening.

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    Pi aren't squared, pi are round. Cornbread are squared!
  • mctriviamctrivia Posts: 3,772
    edited 2010-04-08 04:01
    For proper grounding you should pound a steak into the ground. Since this would make your robot imovable you will not do that.

    Why do you need grounding? I have not yet seen a laptop that is grounded. They are always insulated instead.

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  • P!-RoP!-Ro Posts: 1,189
    edited 2010-04-08 04:10
    Why do I need it? It just came across as being necessary, especially when the manual for the UPS warns not to unplug the device to test the battery due to not having grounding for the electronic devices. Also, the plug on the laptop adapter has 3 connections to the laptop. Either they are different voltages or one is grounding--I don't know.

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  • mctriviamctrivia Posts: 3,772
    edited 2010-04-08 12:13
    most likely the 3rd pin is for comunication between laptop and power supply. though 5V and 12V I have seen in power cables also. since laptops run off bateries they will not have a ground when in battery powered mode.

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  • Peter KG6LSEPeter KG6LSE Posts: 1,383
    edited 2010-04-08 13:24
    # 1 depends .. I have some tripplite models that use the - batt side as a GND spot for the ac side .. mind it has a GFCI on it too.

    I also have a large 2Kva rack mount APC that does frame tye the Batt - to frame but my smaller one does not.....

    #2 kVA's and watts are 2 differnt beasts .. . depending on the load's powerfactor you can figure the amount you can draw .. . in the case of linear iron core UPSs its heat and input current .
    I got a OLD triplite to allmost 2 times its rateings for long runs . in the end it was the CU traces that gave up the ghost .

    Peter KG6LSE

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  • bill190bill190 Posts: 769
    edited 2010-04-08 16:02
    I was thinking...

    The issues with grounding and safety are that there would be 120 volts present on that board when connected to the battery...

    If you are just using the board for charging the battery - no need for 120 VAC on the robot, then perhaps you could disconnect the board from the battery - say with a switch - after charging. Then no safety issues with the board because 120 V would not be present.

    Then you would just need to be concerned with grounding *during* charging. And in that case you would want the charger and the metal frame of the robot grounded to the 120 VAC electrical ground. And the reason for this would be to protect from shock should a stray 120 volt wire touch the metal frame of the robot, then if grounded, this would cause a short on the electrical circuit and trip the circuit breaker - turning off the electricity.

    And that is just safety... Then there is the possibility of ElectroMagnetic Interference (EMI) caused by the "making" of 60 cycles 120 VAC electricity. More on that here...

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_interference

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faraday_cage
  • P!-RoP!-Ro Posts: 1,189
    edited 2010-04-09 03:15
    I must be becoming a shopaholic because I just bought another one rated at 900va with 24v battery (yeah, it's dead) for $6. Unfortunately it can't produce ac on my 18v drill battery for longer than half a second--lol. But yeah I hope to use that one with a server.

    Anyway, there are some good responses above. So since grounding to the battery and grounding to the frame are both ok can I do both? Hopefully because I plan to do that. Just out of curiosity, what is the real reason for grounding? Somehow I don't think it's to give the wires something to short on, I've been in welding to know that's more dangerous than it's worth!

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    Post Edited (pi'd) : 4/9/2010 3:21:10 AM GMT
  • bill190bill190 Posts: 769
    edited 2010-04-09 05:24
    This is a BIG subject... Many different reasons for grounding. No way·I could ever think of everything!

    In the building/housing electrical world in the U.S. and Canada, they call the main electric system ground the "ground" or "grounding electrode conductor" (GEC). Then everything else is "bonded" to that ground. But manufacturers call the 3rd prong on a outlet the ground pin!

    The rest of the world calls it "earthing"...
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system

    This connection keeps·electrically conductive·parts at "earth potential"...
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_(electricity)

    It will cause a circuit breaker to trip or a fuse to blow in the case of a fault...
    http://www.littelfuse.com/protection-relays/introduction/ground-fault-protection-relays.html

    It can keep electromagnetic emissions out or in with the use of shielding or a faraday cage...
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_interference
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faraday_cage
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shielded_cable
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_pulse
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TEMPEST

    Can protect buildings, trees, and antennas from lightning...
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lightning_rod

    Can be used for voltage surge protection...
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surge_protector

    Can be used for metal underground pipeline protection as part of a cathodic protection system...
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection

    Can be used as half of an electrical circuit like with a vehicle chassis ground...
    http://www.ese.upenn.edu/rca/instruments/misctutorials/Ground/grd.html

    In Australia and Alaska,·it is used as one of the conductors of high voltage transmission lines (SWER)! (I kid you not!)...
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single-wire_earth_return

    And you can have problems with grounding called a "ground loop"...
    http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/

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  • P!-RoP!-Ro Posts: 1,189
    edited 2010-04-11 05:17
    @bill, guess my problem is just that it's a robot and not a house. I think I'll get it to work, though.

    For anyone curious I have a picture of the temporary robot board I'm working on. The reason I'm calling it temporary is because I eventually want a metal case, but that may not happen until next school year. I still have to solder the parts to it--many of which are still coming in the mail--tomorrow, and after that maybe I can program it.

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  • P!-RoP!-Ro Posts: 1,189
    edited 2010-04-11 23:08
    I still haven't decided whether I should ground it to my robot or not but I think I will. Not sure how far that will get me without it connected to the earth but oh well. I got the board on the robot and just barely started connecting wires. If you're curious I uploaded a picture. The name is Black and Blue BTW; FHR just stands for five horsepower robot.

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  • icepuckicepuck Posts: 466
    edited 2010-04-12 01:13
    pi'd
    After rereading I'm thinking you may have to treat it as an electric forklift. The electrical systems of battery powered liftrucks and AVG's are NOT grounded to the frame like in typical 12v automotive systems, instead everything is returned to a common ground point.

    The main reason for this was for static electricity buildup and the positive/negative voltages use in the drive controllers,computers, and inverters. Having a voltage to frame on something like a battery powered machine is a bad thing because if you happen to touch it you become the conductor to ground(or earth) and what ever voltages that had built up suddenly pass right on through you. It also causes computers/drive controllers to act abnormally.

    The newer liftrucks and AVG's used 3phase AC drive and hydraulic motors that were powered by large inverters, those were just as problematic. The simple fix for all this was to bolt a plastic or rubber strip, to the frame, that had a high carbon content and let it drag on the ground.

    This may or may not be a problem for you, just something that one should be aware of when working with battery powered mobile machines.
    -dan

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  • P!-RoP!-Ro Posts: 1,189
    edited 2010-04-12 04:37
    Thanks Dan, I remember reading something about the shock factor from one of Bill's articles but found it confusing at the time, so I guess now it makes sense. I believe I have some extra cable lying around anyway so I could have that drag on the ground but it doesn't seem like I'll be too effective on cement or roads.

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    Pi aren't squared, pi are round. Cornbread are squared!
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