resisotr value for prop demo board can I substitute value?
mikediv
Posts: 825
Hi guys quick question I am putting together a prop demo board for the VGA circuit it calls for the usual 240 ohm resistors and the 470 ohm ones as well I ran out of 240 ohms resistors but I do have plenty 270 ohm will that work ok
I figure with the 5 percent tolerance the 240 could be as high as 250+ anyway but before I solder them in I figured its worth asking
thanks
I figure with the 5 percent tolerance the 240 could be as high as 250+ anyway but before I solder them in I figured its worth asking
thanks
Comments
Jim
The color that only use the pin with 470ohm will be as normal.
Tony when you say a little dimmer will I notice it for terminal display?? and if I did have to do graphics will I be disappointed I didn't wait for the 240s thanks guys
It will give a few percent lower output but that will be nothing compared to the differing outputs of whatever monitor it ends up on. At least it errs on the low side, so there shouldn't be any overloading / clipping problems. This way of generating a 0.7 Volt, 75 Ohm feed is not pure, but works perfectly well. The VGA and composite outputs are just about the right standard for hobby / commercial usage.
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Style and grace : Nil point
So hows the DracBlade coming along ??
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none the less I have gone pin by pin trying to find the fault my old board works just fine even lets me load Mbasic program but after almost exactly 45 seconds I get the error we have been talking about,, you have the let the board rest before it will work again
its not thermal I have replaced every single chip including the prop, I have bypassed the power supply and just used a regulated supply to feed the board the 5 and 3 volts never fluctuate they are rock steady I just cant figure it out
Toby if you see this what do you think about a cap being bad or something like that?
45 secs would sound like a thermal thing, but the fingers and nose would soon find the effected bits. There is the possibilities that something is overflowing leading to a crash.
I left one running for over a week, not meaning to, and it just waited at the cursor. I'll have a think, tomorrow.
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Post Edit -- Resistors have tolerances, carbon films are usually 5%.· That's something that you have to spec and design for.· It may seem like a small detail, but that's good engineering.· The values for a 240 and 270 at 1.05 and 0.95 tolerance,·respectively, are very close.· If you want to be a stickler for accuracy, buy metal film, 1% or better.
Post Edited (PJ Allen) : 3/6/2010 3:11:07 AM GMT
Re mikediv and resets, I've had a couple of boards do that too. Only the older ones, and I'm still not sure if it is the propeller or the external ram. One test would be to put the pocketerm program on the board, maybe change pins if needed and see if that crashes.
I have a sneaking suspicion there might be a timing loop that is just on the limit, and I've very much hoping that the latest board with its shorter paths and less potential crosstalk will be 100% reliable. I've had one running for 3 days now.
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www.smarthome.viviti.com/propeller
I once had to play with an old IVC three tube camera, it had precision resistors with variables on the end. The designers calculator must have said "we need 62.87K here" so they had 60.3K fixed, custom made, resistors with a 5K variable set about halfway.
I bet their CD collection was in alphabetical order too.
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Re resistors, my dad reckons back in the 1950s you could buy 2% or 5% or 10% and they were very accurate. How so? Well, they just measured them when they came out of the factory. The ones within 2% went in the 2% pile etc. The 10% ones were guaranteed to be either +10% or -10%.
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www.smarthome.viviti.com/propeller
That would stop anybody building a computer in a matchbox.
Happy days
Back to reality ---- I still haven't formed any ideas as to why the DracBlade should start, run for a set 45 secs and then demise other than Thermals or its running out of something in a loop. You could remove bits to see if the fault is there from the bare min system of 2 latches (for 64KB). This the back of "Baby", the Prop is under the '138 and EEPROM, and the ram is under the two latches. I couldn't get the paths much shorter using DIP chips.
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Guys when I boot CPM and let it sit a the prompt is it static at that point or is the prop still running stuff???? I can look at signals with scope but when it locks up I can not find what is changing the difference between the old version board and the new while slight is enough so I Can not compare pin for pin to the working board... DR_A has been awesome and I should just give up on the old board but I am so curious as to why because everything looks so darn good I just wish I could go WOW found it its this or that but I have to admit I am stumped
Toby I will always admire your talent that board is pretty impressive for home built DIY
Photographic skill - nil point.
There is always the "fresh eyes" approach. You could send it to me, and whilst I promise nothing, sometimes the problem is obvious. Work permitting I'll willingly have a look at it ( the Bu****s have already got me working next weekend. I was creeping around HER to let me go to Maker Fair, in Newcastle. Hey Ho )
I'll invoice Dr_A.
I am up in the Midlands, only the PCB would be needed, so the postage shouldn't be too bad.
(PM'd you)
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Post Edited (Toby Seckshund) : 3/7/2010 12:23:35 AM GMT
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If we're talking tennis, then http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/deuce
Its got me wondering, are there many French Prop users ?????
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Style and grace : Nil point