two photoelectric sensor one relay

Gaber · 2010-03-02 17:38

I'm always trying to keep myself busy and now I am stuck in this wiring !!

I bought averything I needed for my project (two sensors, a 24VDC relay, power supply amd of course , the Solenoid valve)
I am using two omron E3F2-R2C4 photoelectric switch sensors

the plan is,
The Relay will keep the Voltage applied to the Solenoid valve when the object is detected.
Then the second sensor will trigger when the (Pneumatic Cylinder) is fully extracted and turn off the Relay and this will retract the Piston.

I got a 24DC power supply to power the solenoid and the sensors.

This is a single acting Open/Close solenoid valve. When voltage is applied, it will extract the Piston and when voltage is removed the piston will retract.

any comment/help will be appreciate it.

Gabe

Franklin · 2010-03-02 17:55

Sounds interesting, what is your question? I would hook up one sensor and see if it operates the relay then hook the relay to the solenoid and see if that works. Take it in small steps as you go. Good luck.

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- Stephen

Gaber · 2010-03-02 21:58

Sorry I didn't make the question,

the big question is , How can I wire everything so that one sensor turns the relay on and the other sensor turns it off.
Thanks for the comment STEPHEN.

By the way I already tried one sensor and It did work and turned the solenoid valve now I dont know how can I hook the other one up.

Post Edited (Gaber) : 3/3/2010 11:17:31 PM GMT

kwinn · 2010-03-03 04:30

It looks like the sensor model you have (E3F2-R2C4) has an NPN transistor output so you will need some additional circuitry to have one sensor turn the relay on and the other turn it off. You could do that with an additional relay, a transistor, or a flip-flop and drive transistor.

If you are using the pneumatic cylinder to move the detected object then you will need a flip-flop to be turned on by the detection of the object, and off when the cylinder is fully extended. I would suggest using a 555 timer for that.

Gaber · 2010-03-03 05:55

If you tell me how can I hook up the other relay would be cool, since I have like 5 of them
Thanks a lot Kwinn.
-Gabe

Post Edited (Gaber) : 3/3/2010 11:23:30 PM GMT

kwinn · 2010-03-03 19:59

I need to know if the cylinder pushes the detected object away from the sensor when activated and if the object or cylinder is detected by the second sensor when the cylinder is fully extended.

Gaber · 2010-03-03 23:19

Yes sir,
the cylinder pushes the detected object away from the first sensor when activated, and
the second sensor detects the target when the cylinder is fully extended.

thanks Kwinn,
Gabe

kwinn · 2010-03-04 01:58

In that case you need to have the first relay be turned on by the object in front of the first sensor and stay on until the the object reaches the second sensor. Not sure this can be done with the type of relays you have but I will see what I can come up with when I get home tonight.

tWO MORE QUESTIONS.

When the object reaches the second sensor does it stay there or is it removed before the cylinder retracts and another object is placed in front of the first sensor ?

Can you tell me how much current the relay coil and solenoid coil draw or what their resistance is ?

Post Edited (kwinn) : 3/4/2010 3:46:14 AM GMT

Gaber · 2010-03-04 10:59

let me find that out for you ok.
just give a little bit of time.

sorry for the delay.

I think the relay resistance is 1600 let me double check

Gaber · 2010-03-04 16:26

Kwinn,

The object is remove after the cylinder retracts and another object is placed to start the cycle again (there is no timing cycle)
the cycle begins when the object is place in front of the first sensor and ends when the second sensor detects the cylinder's plunger.

The relay coil: Nominal current is 15mA and the coil resistance is 1600 ohm +/- 10%.

The Solenoid Valve :

Flow (at 6 bar, ΔP=1bar) : 1.8 W : (0.1 Cv), 5.4 W : (0.15 Cv)
Voltage range : -15% to +10% of nominal voltage

Power : ∼ Inrush : 10.9 VA
Holding : 7.7 VA
= 1.8 to 12.7 W
Response times : 24 VDC (5.4 W) Energize : 6 ms De-energize : 2 ms
120/60 Energize : 3-8 ms De-energize : 2-7 ms

kwinn · 2010-03-04 17:25

This circuit should work using the relays you have.

Gaber · 2010-03-05 04:31

Thansk Kwinn,
I'll be working over the weekend with the circuit you gave sir.

one question (since I am not a PRO)
there are three relays right ?

have a good weekend.

kwinn · 2010-03-05 04:58

Yes, there are 3 relays. You could replace RY1 and RY3 with a double pole relay if you had one. Just in case you are wondering, the relay coil numbers and switch numbers are matched. ie RY3 coil activates SW3 contacts.

Gaber · 2010-03-05 16:47

I got that part Kwinn
I appreciated all your help Sir, its nice to have people like you man,

have a nice weekend.

Gaber · 2010-03-07 13:35

Hi Kiwnn.

When I worked on my project this weekend, based on the circuit you gave me, everything worked just fine using a light bulb instead of the solenoid valve, but when I hooked up the solenoid valve nothing happens
you thing that the solenoid valve is not a 24 VDC (the site from where I bought it says "24 VDC") ... Something is wrong man.

this is the pic from the valve, hopefully you can help me again.

I am very thankful for the circuit you gave me it worked pretty good.

Gabe

kwinn · 2010-03-07 14:38

That is a 120V AC coil on the solenoid. You can order a solenoid valve with the correct coil or add another relay to run one that safely. I will add a schematic to this post shortly. Be very careful when working with 120V AC if you decide to add the relay and use the one you have.

Here is the schematic. Again, be very careful when working with 120VAC.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A FUSE IN THE LINE IN CASE YOU HAVE A SHORT SOMEWHERE.

Post Edited (kwinn) : 3/7/2010 2:55:54 PM GMT

Franklin · 2010-03-07 22:39

Gaber, show us how you are connecting this all together. It will help visualize your connections.

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- Stephen

kwinn · 2010-03-08 03:40

@Franklin, check the post immediately above your last post. That has a fourth relay added to accommodate a 120VAC solenoid. the one 5 previous to that had the schematic for a 24V solenoid.

Post Edited (kwinn) : 3/8/2010 4:54:45 PM GMT

Gaber · 2010-03-08 07:50

I would be happy to show my work progress but It does not look good with all the wire everywhere, you know. plus I am working in my basement nothing nice to look lol but the schematic that Kwinn gave me worked pretty good.

by the way I added the 4th relay to activate the AC solenoid and everything went well.
I will post the progress somtime later, stephen.
Thanks for follow this show.

kwinn · 2010-03-08 17:04

Glad to hear the circuit is working. BTW, all those relays could be replaced with less than $10.00 worth of parts if this is something you will be making more than one of. A 555 timer, transistor, solid state relay, and a few passive components is all that would be required.

Gaber · 2010-03-08 20:12

Right now just let me enjoy it Kwinn, I thougt about a 555 timer but not now,
I do want to tell you that I moved a wire to get what I wanted.

I connected one of the pink wires from the sensors to the brown and the other one stayed with the blue, see the problem was that
the "target" was blocking the two sensor at the same time (sensors were about 5" apart from each other), doing this let me place the "target" in front of the sensors(that was the only way to activate the valve). then when the second sensor doesn't detect the plunger, turns the valve off sending it back to its home position, and the cycle will start by placing the target in fornt of the two sensors @ the same time.

if you dont understand what I said blame it on my English... I am originally from Mexico.

kwinn · 2010-03-08 23:24

I think I understand. You reversed the wire on sensor 2 so it opened RY 2 when there was no object in front of it instead of when an object was there. Right?

Gaber · 2010-03-09 00:59

Yes you are right again !!

Recylce if you can !!

Post Edited (Gaber) : 3/10/2010 5:13:46 AM GMT

two photoelectric sensor one relay

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