Help shrink the prop chip
Humanoido
Posts: 5,770
The prop dip has a defined width/distance between pin rows.
Is there a socket adapter with pin rows closer together?
Space is at a premium on this pcb.
humanoido
Is there a socket adapter with pin rows closer together?
Space is at a premium on this pcb.
humanoido
Comments
Leon
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Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
But I've not seen an adapter, I would tend to go towards a soldered solution (though perhaps not QFN) if you really need more space. Be positive, you won't blow up the chip!
Graham
work with.
Graham Stabler: what soldered solution are you talking about?
Components can mount under the chip but what
I want to put there are more prop chips. Shrinking the socket
on the bottom but not the top is one idea to gain real estate.
The dimensions of the prop chip is not important as the second
prop can mount on the pcb back side.
It's possible to manually bend pins inward, but that's going to
take a long time and require lots of skill to get the pins to line
up in new rows, and so this method is not so practical.
····www.arieselec.com/Web_Data_Sheets/12030/12030.htm
I don't see what it buys you, though, since it precludes putting parts under the Prop chip. If you really want to save space, do as others have suggested and use one of the SMT parts.
-Phil
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Martin Hodge
"I like Pie"
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But I *may* have a better solution, I did try to write an explanation but I thought I would just try it, however I don't have any Dip propellers or sockets so I made a miniature version. You will end up with a sort of blade with just the propeller on it (and eeprom and crystal if you want).
Step 1, make a small board with your socket soldered in place. Break the tracks between the two sides of the socket. Add some headers on one side to make an edge connector. Add the same headers this time through the holes but put the long legs of the headers through the holes. The second set of headers are used to join the two boards conveniently.
Step 2, make a second board and solder on another "edge connector".
Step 3, solder the two boards together.
You now have a propeller socket that can plug into a board and take up little space particularly if set back to back. It is worth cutting the legs of the socket down after soldering just because of the small chance it might contact with the second board.
With a double sided PCB it would be even easier using the double row header pins as an edge connector.
Cheers,
Graham
p.s. Apologies to the vero-board for my messy cutting (done with a knife)
I will design and assemble a custom pcb with a lot of qfp props on it for a very low price. The more props you want the cheaper/prop it will get.
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24 bit LCD Breakout Board now in. $24.99 has backlight driver and touch sensitive decoder.
If you have not already. Add yourself to the prophead map
Mctrivia, as I recall, you prefer BGA. Correct?
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JMH
Post Edited (Mike Huselton) : 2/19/2010 3:56:18 AM GMT
If the mini-blade type idea seems suitable a version based on a QFP/QFN would be very compact and thin allowing really good packing density. A proper high density edge connector might also be used reducing the size further.
Graham
humanoido
humanoido
Graham