Yes, it is possible. The webstore page says "Compatible with most microcontrollers including the Propeller chip and all BASIC Stamp models". It's easier to do if you use 3.3V power for the transceiver because the I/O pins then are directly compatible with the Propeller's I/O.
I have these transievers and after using about 15 different pieces of sample code I sent them back. None worked. I think this is due to interference in this area, so you may have better performance in your area. Here are some of the sample programs that I used, but none of them worked for me, so I don't know which ones work and which don't. I have attached some.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Computers are microcontrolled.
I am in the process right now of putting a pair of these to work. At the moment, I can't get the programs to hold at a waitpeq command. It seems my transceiver is
always picking up some sort of interference signals. I am looking for some sort of filtering options.
I will admit, I am working on this at my computer desk where I have a keyboard, mouse, and router here that are all wireless components. I am not sure of the
frequency ratings on these but am trying to sort it out.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ It's not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog.
If they are anything like every other raw wireless module I've ever uses, you will constantly see noise on the receive output as the data slicer floats around. When the transmitter sparks up and you send a good 10101010 preamble, the data slicer in the receiver will nicely center, and provided the bytes that follow don't have too many consecutive 1's or 0's (no sending strings of $0 or $FF) you have a "reasonable" chance of getting out what you put in.
To do it properly you want to use something like a Manchester code to ensure a good DC balance of the signal and proper clocking, but people seem to get them to work "adequately" just shoving NRZI data into them.
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Life may be "too short", but it's the longest thing we ever do.
@ microcontrolled, I have a shed full of RF modules that don't work nearly as well as the spec sheets imply. I've tried lots, and ended up with these www.yishi.net.cn/rf/ProductShow.asp?ID=99
There are some subtle things in the spec sheet (not on the website) but the main one is the -123db sensitivity at 1200 baud (or -118db at 9600 baud). I've gone for 1200 baud as I want the range, and they really do go 800 metres as they claim, they are very immune to noise and they have a larger buffer than most transceivers. The have onboard micros so data in = data out.
They use standard RS232 voltage levels so you would need a max232, but there are advantages in doing it that way in that you can test it all with a wired RS232 connection then when it is proved change over to wireless.
Comments
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Computers are microcontrolled.
Robots are microcontrolled.
I am microcontrolled.
SX Spinning light display·
http://designedbymemicros.blogspot.com/
always picking up some sort of interference signals. I am looking for some sort of filtering options.
I will admit, I am working on this at my computer desk where I have a keyboard, mouse, and router here that are all wireless components. I am not sure of the
frequency ratings on these but am trying to sort it out.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
It's not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog.
To do it properly you want to use something like a Manchester code to ensure a good DC balance of the signal and proper clocking, but people seem to get them to work "adequately" just shoving NRZI data into them.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Life may be "too short", but it's the longest thing we ever do.
There are some subtle things in the spec sheet (not on the website) but the main one is the -123db sensitivity at 1200 baud (or -118db at 9600 baud). I've gone for 1200 baud as I want the range, and they really do go 800 metres as they claim, they are very immune to noise and they have a larger buffer than most transceivers. The have onboard micros so data in = data out.
They use standard RS232 voltage levels so you would need a max232, but there are advantages in doing it that way in that you can test it all with a wired RS232 connection then when it is proved change over to wireless.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
www.smarthome.viviti.com/propeller
Post Edited (Dr_Acula) : 1/29/2010 5:14:49 AM GMT