Got the bridgeport today
metron9
Posts: 1,100
Waiting for a 3 phase VFD to connect the motor.
http://www.siliconcoder.com/bridgeport.html
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Think Inside the box first and if that doesn't work..
Re-arrange what's inside the box then...
Think outside the BOX!
http://www.siliconcoder.com/bridgeport.html
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Think Inside the box first and if that doesn't work..
Re-arrange what's inside the box then...
Think outside the BOX!
Comments
And I thought that my cats were overdoing it by giving me a Stingray robot for my birthday!
Nice machine, what will you be doing with it?
Ron
If you are an "old mill hand", again, you are a very fortunate fellow and you know what a great tool you have there!
Congrats!!!!
Chris
Your shop is way too clean.
-Phil
I have a new Teco VFD 220V single phase to 3 phase converter, just going to buy the necessary electrical stuff today to get it connected.
I am waiting for the guy that sold me the machine to give me a price list for the various tools he won't need anymore.
Some of the tools like the precision drill chucks are really quite expensive.
On the Practical Machinest they are helping me with my initial questions just like the folks here did when I bought my basic stamp.
One guy there has tons of regrind endmills I mean thousands that he sells at $1.00 and most all forum members jump in and buy them up very fast.
He put a special package together for me with mills up to 1 inch size, I don't even have collets yet.
One interesting readI found about dial test indicators as i was searching for just what brand should I buy is here http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Alt/alt.machines.cnc/2006-08/msg00736.html
Phil, I still don't have the grey epoxy floor though. Trying to find out if the oil spots (discolored concrete) needs to have some treatment before I do that.
Also I still have to level the bp, it's about 1/4 inch low in the front. My neighbor has a precision machinest level he is going to bring over so we can get it level.
I will post some more when I get it running. Yes i am new to it, I even bought 20 lbs of machining wax to get started.
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Think Inside the box first and if that doesn't work..
Re-arrange what's inside the box then...
Think outside the BOX!
I will offer you this advice based on the obvious things I see most newbies do with a mill to: destroy it,·destroy cutting tools, or to hurt themselves....
1) Don't drill into the table - sounds simple stupid but it happens all too often.· Plan your machining so that you can drill through where needed without drilling a hole in your machine's table.
2) Make sure your workpiece is securely attached to the table.· Again, sounds simple stupid but you cannot underestimate the force of cutting.
3) NEVER climb mill, always conventional mill.· Climb milling will pull the table into the part and self feed - usually resulting in broken tools.
4) Before turning the spindle on with ANY tool, make sure you know what SFM that tool should be run at for the material you are cutting.· THEN, calculate the RPM based on the suggested SFM.·
5) Never put fingers near the rotating tool - use a paint brush to clear chips away when milling. If you get stringy chips while drilling, STOP the spindle to clear them away as they can snag just about anything and pull·it into the spindle - including your hands!!!!!
6) Keep your head in your work!!! Maintain good focus of what you are doing, letting yourself get distracted is a sure-fire way to getting yourself hurt.
7) Wear safety glasses - nuff-said.
Chris
I have been running diecutters 30 x 40 for many years perhaps millions of sheets, big paper cutters and wood saws, drills, etc. There is quite a bit of more power though on this thing compared with a bench top drill press with a v belt and 1/4 hp motor so I will be a very slow precise moves.
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Think Inside the box first and if that doesn't work..
Re-arrange what's inside the box then...
Think outside the BOX!
I have a table top mill that's pretty sturdy, but probably half the motion in any direction of your Bridgeport.· Has anyone ever heard of an "Armor" out of California?· It has a Polish "head" on it labeled "Rusnok".· i think it was made in the 50s.
I got this thing about 5 years ago and knew nothing about machining.· I had spent·a summer sweeping chips at a plastics tool mfg house when I was 15, but that's it.
As has been stated, be careful.··I was able to make many mistakes without throwing a lot of steel around due to the limited power of my machine.· I don't know if I could handle a Bridgeport yet, but I would sure like to try!
Good on ya!
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·
I plan to make myself a very nice PCB router and perhaps make low cost small PCB routers to sell. Perhaps a nice CNC drill machine for those that make boards at home but really would like a drill machine. Just ordered about 500 bucks worth of tools clamps and indicator stuff to get started. I should be turning on the switch very soon.
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Think Inside the box first and if that doesn't work..
Re-arrange what's inside the box then...
Think outside the BOX!
I used to successfully degrease concrete and remove oil stains with dry powder laundry detergent and paint thinner as a slush. Scrub in with a heavy brush. Sweep up the excess. The resulting mixture dissolves the oil and washes away with water.
Usually I first sprinkled power detergent to soak the excess oil, spread it with a broom, and then added the solvent to sink into the stain and make a goo. After a good scrubbing, I removed the surplus and hosed off the slush.
If you need something stronger, TSP (trisodium phosphate) and mineral spirits (the other name for paint thinner). Don't use gasoline in enclosed spaces as it is explosive.
Of course, you will need to have the floor dry out to coat with epoxy after that.
If ground water under the concrete is a problem, you may want to first seal the concrete with something like Thompson's Water Seal (it goes deep into the concrete and prevents the epoxy from pealing off).
Another alternative is to just wash the stain with a solvent that is known to be compatible with the epoxy you select. (There are true two component epoxies and then there is single component 'epoxy paint'. The two component is best.)
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Ain't gadetry a wonderful thing?
aka G. Herzog [noparse][[/noparse] 黃鶴 ] in Taiwan
Post Edited (Loopy Byteloose) : 11/14/2009 3:53:53 PM GMT
Nice machine and in incredible shape for being 39
I wish I had caught your post earlier as your Bp has an infinitely variable spindle drive. No need for the VFD. A simple signal phase to 3 phase inverter would have been fine and @ a 1/3 the cost! $$$$
I've seen some Quad. code for the Propeller, This would give killer feed back from the digital read outs.( CNC app.)
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The Truth is out there············___$WMc%___···························· BoogerWoods, FL. USA
The VFD I bought has connections for remote input for all functions. My longer term plan is to modify this bp with a ballscrew kit and make it full CNC so I will want the motor control. I also plan a digital input keypad complete with led lights made out of 1/2 inch cast acrylic and edge lit. Just for that back to the future look I am shooting for.
Go ahead and post a link though as I may need one for my lathe or metal band saw. (both are in the add to wish list catagory at the moment)
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Think Inside the box first and if that doesn't work..
Re-arrange what's inside the box then...
Think outside the BOX!