Power for the propeller demo board
Hello
i wanted to know if there is any way i can power the propeller demo board with a battery pack or if parallax sold a battery pack for this purpose
i wanted to know if there is any way i can power the propeller demo board with a battery pack or if parallax sold a battery pack for this purpose
Comments
Sure. 4AA batteries in a 6V pack will do it nicely.
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lt's not particularly silly, is it?
The "lith ion" cell you mentioned will likely do a little less. Use the same connector that Mike mentioned.
OBC
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Well, 9V will work nicely, but I'm gagging to see how you get 9V out of a single li-ion cell [noparse];)[/noparse]
Personally I have a 2.1mm plug hanging out of my benchtop supply and regularly throw between 8-13V at my proto and demo boards.
At 13V the regs get a it warm but still within specs (and they are too small to cook an egg anyway)
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lt's not particularly silly, is it?
Ray
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Andrew Williams
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In the dollar stores, they have a totally cheapo electronics section. Most of the stuff is Smile, but there are lots of connectors, bits of cable, etc... for a buck.
Personally, I prefer the thrifties. Many of them have an "electrical" section, where who knows what you will find. For sure, there will be a wall, or basket, or drawer chock full of used wall power adapters. Score one or two of those for cheap, power your Prop, and get a spare plug.
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Check your "junk drawer". You probably have and old "orphan" wall wart with the right sized plug. Maybe you're like me and just can't throw away something that still works even though you don't know what you'll use it for.
Cut off the cable,·using a meter, find and mark·the wire that goes to the center contact (that goes to the battery +), wire it up to your battery holder and you're all set.
If all else fails, save the $20 shipping and the cost of the cables and go buy a cheap wall wart with the right sized plug and "liberate" the cable as above·(take your demo board with you and find one that fits).
Duffer
See if there are any surplus stores where you live. If there is one of these near by, how they operate is they take "inventory" off of other peoples hands, then process it (or not, LOL!!), then sell the stuff rock bottom.
The one near me is just excellent. They've got a ton of stuff, and it's just the place for getting components, plugs and other stuff to work with. $5 takes home a very interesting bag 'o goodies.
This is worth looking for IMHO. Once you know the place, it's perfect for that "I need X on saturday" kinds of things.
Being a little willing to scrounge make the hobby fun actually. It's always a little adventurous, and often leads to those "happy distractions" that sometimes turn out to be great things. At the least, you will have some sources lined up, and that's never a bad thing.
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Quit buying all those fixed voltage regulators, and·get an Adjustable Power Supply·for your projects!· Includes an LED testing terminal!
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because in demoboard do not know why the designers
have omitted a diode like a 1N4007 to protect the card
from the inversion
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Fisio
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For portable use I used a 7.2V. 1700mAh, 6 cell battery that you can pick up at any hobby shop.
I have several of these I use in my R\C cars and tanks. They work great !
and since our voltage is so low we can use a regular diode or two instead. Certain LED's,
especially the older not-superbright yellowish green ones turn on suddenly instead of gradually.
The diodes have a voltage drop (regulator) effect, which can change the light-on voltage of the LED.
Because (SOME) LEDs have that noticeable light-up threshold, it is easy to make bargraph voltmeters with them
and just a pair of resistors (which may be a variable resistor) for each one.
So, you could have just one LED indicating good power close to 3.3 volts,
and maybe also another one which goes out just before the circuit starves and battery dies.
As far as I know only older yellow green LEDs have a good threshold effect
and the red ones fade gradually, BUT I haven't thought of trying to use newer ones the same way,
so feel free to experiment. I just can't recommend the idea of using a green LED for "good power"
PLUS a red one for "prepare for death" for these reasons.
I have used diodes to inform microcontrollers of impending battery death but not for the Propeller yet,
though I'm sure it would work. All that needs to be done is connect diodes to a pin and when they
cannot pull down the pin anymore then the voltage is too low. They sell power watching chips but
diodes usually only cost me a penny or two.
That or just have one preset "alarm" level by using the transisition point of an input.
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Style and grace : Nil point
do we all have chrystal balls to look inside what you did wrong ??? NO !!
to state the obvious things:
did you check for the right polarity ?
did you check for "cold solderings" (beeping through the wires)
did you check the voltage of the battery when it is connected to your protoboard ?
maybe the voltage brakes down if it is connected to the protoboard
did you check the current flowing from the battery to the protoboard when connected ?
If it REALLY has 7V it is 1V MORE than the schematic says so it should work (6V-9V)
thanks for helping "StefanL38" i feel that i am wasteing everyones time with my dumb questions.
Your just wasting your own time beeing unprecise in your question
You are working in too many different places at the same time
You put together a lot of code and to me you seem to be still a bloody newbee.
Concentrate on the battery-issue OR concentrate on the test serialconnection code
You can believe me. Doing the things one after another instead of parallel will lead you much faster
to the target