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Cheap propeller programmer... - Page 2 — Parallax Forums

Cheap propeller programmer...

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Comments

  • mikedivmikediv Posts: 825
    edited 2009-11-07 01:00
    Propability Do I understand ? Can you program the SX chip without a Key using one of these cables?
  • PropabilityPropability Posts: 142
    edited 2009-11-07 01:35
    No SX programming capability·Mikediv, just serial comms with a system that is running at 5 volts versus the Prop at 3.3 volts ( the reason for the 1k resistor in series) . If I had a few more of these I might try and see if the chips can holdup to having 5volts on their inputs but the series resistor works so...

    Still wondering about the need for the cap on the data line. Do you only have one board to check it with? Something else sharing that line? Mine work fine without the need for the data line cap so just has got my curiosity up.
  • Bill HenningBill Henning Posts: 6,445
    edited 2009-11-07 02:20
    Nice! I have not had time to buzz it out yet, now I don't have to!

    Thanks [noparse]:)[/noparse]
    OakGraphics said...
    Propability said...

    To find the ground of course would be the first thing to do and most likely it is the low resistance path to the metal sheild of the USB connector.

    How to find DTR? Well first of all the device should be recognized by your system so the drivers need to be installed and the device recognized with no errors.

    For windows I use Brays terminal which allows me to toggle the DTR line.

    Thanks for the pointer. I downloaded Brays terminal and was able to find the DTR pin very quick!

    PIN-OUT of the "12 PIN" type:
    USB Board wire color  function                nokia plug
    PIN 06    ORANGE      GND                     pin 8
    PIN 04    RED         RS232-3v phone TX data  pin 7 
    Pin 12    blue        RS232-3v Phone RX Data  pin 6 
    Pin 11                DTR
    PIN 10                RTS 
    
    
     
    
    I noticed that DTR and RTS are about 3.3v when not active, and go to 0V when I toggled them on.
    
    I guess this version only needs the two caps.
    

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  • mikedivmikediv Posts: 825
    edited 2009-11-07 03:15
    Propability that's to bad imagine if we could have a way to program the SX for just a few bucks Oh well wishful thinking I guess .. I have a total of 14 cables built now and I can not count how many different prop boards some I bought here ,Parallax propsticks proto board, I have 5 of Phils boards and I built a bunch myself even wire wrapped a few whole systems I did a design Jazzed shared with me for multiple props I have 5 on one board. every cable I built needed the extra cap . Don't get me wrong sometimes it will work without it but with the cap its rock solid Without the cap my scope shows quite a bit of hashing enough to cause it to be intermittent without the cap. I have a room in my house I took over as a kind of lab/office I have all kinds of test equipment a lot of it older units some even have tubes so I could be picking up noise from all the electronics . But a few people PM me asking for help and they to had to add the cap so I don't know where they are picking up noise , It also did not matter what computer I used Laptop desktop... I thought you did not have the same cables as the rest of us??
    maybe the style I have also has somehting to do with it I can show you a scope trace if you would like to see it without the cap I don't have a fancy scope just a Tektronics unit so I will have to take a picture of my screen to show you. I was holding out for the prop scope
    before I went digital
  • MagIO2MagIO2 Posts: 2,243
    edited 2009-11-09 08:34
    Ehm ... maybe I missed something, but why do you want to solder on that side of the plug?

    Just cut off the Nokia plug and use the cable already attached. No need to open the molded plastic plug.
  • OakGraphicsOakGraphics Posts: 202
    edited 2009-11-09 21:16
    MagIO2 said...
    Ehm ... maybe I missed something, but why do you want to solder on that side of the plug?

    Just cut off the Nokia plug and use the cable already attached. No need to open the molded plastic plug.

    Good point, but this is not a passive cable and coming from different vendors who do different things. Some have 3 wires in the cable, some have 4, some have 5. Even the color of the internal cables are not guaranteed. Since we are toning out what pad on the usb break-out-board and extending the DTR to the other end - and replacing the cable with a 4-conductor cable instead of a 3-conductor cable, all the work is on the USB side.
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