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Intervalometer Discussions? — Parallax Forums

Intervalometer Discussions?

rdlbrdlb Posts: 8
edited 2009-10-01 18:32 in BASIC Stamp
Hi guys,

I'm looking for an intervalometer that will trigger a camera using Basic Stamp. I'm sure it has been done but it didn't come up in any search so could you all point me in the right direction.

Thanks,
Dave

Post Edited (rdlb) : 9/24/2009 11:22:59 PM GMT

Comments

  • Larry~Larry~ Posts: 242
    edited 2009-09-23 03:00
    I think thats what Im doing now you want to take pictures every so many minutes, hours. Look up Sony LanC or control L the stamp could maybe do this if it had uS pause command I have done this using Pic Basic Plus on a 16f84 pic chip.
  • Mike GreenMike Green Posts: 23,101
    edited 2009-09-23 04:21
    The best way to accomplish this depends on the kinds of intervals needed and the precision of the timing required. In terms of the actual triggering of the camera, you probably need a switch closure. An SPST NO (normally open) reed relay with a coil voltage of 5V and a coil current of 20mA or less is what you need. RadioShack does sell one that will work although electronics distributors like DigiKey and Mouser have other reed relays that use less current.

    In terms of the timing, you will probably want to use the SLEEP statement so the Stamp will drop into low power mode. You'll probably be running off a battery and battery life will be important.
  • rdlbrdlb Posts: 8
    edited 2009-09-23 08:33
    Thanks for the tip about sleep. and the reed relay. I didn't know what that part was actually called...

    I know about the regular camera controllers, I just want to make one from scratch for fun.

    Well here's some more info. about my project. I'm running an old Nikon D70s, no need for autofocus since it will be manually done before hand.

    I'd like it to take a photo every minute, but I'd like to write the program so I can easily change the interval.

    The camera will be in a housing running on a huge battery for about 12 hours, fitting in another battery for the chip should be relatively easy??

    The housing will be stationary so weight is not a high priority.

    That being said, I'd also like to be as efficient as possible. I'm talking to some people at Nikon about maximum voltage limits for the D70s so I can keep the mAh to a minimum.

    Let me know what you think I'd need to power the chip for 12 hours.

    Also, I should mention that I've never done this kind of work before. I got the BS2 intro kit on order from Parallax so I'll be able to ask better questions soon.

    Thanks,
    Dave
  • rdlbrdlb Posts: 8
    edited 2009-09-23 09:08
    Like this?
    search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=306-1068-ND
  • Mike GreenMike Green Posts: 23,101
    edited 2009-09-23 13:41
    The reed relay you found should work.

    Regarding battery run-time ... If you look at the documentation for the BS2, you'll see that it draws up to 3mA when running and 50uA when sleeping. If a reed relay is driven by the Stamp, its coil current adds to that when it's turned on. If you use a 9V alkaline radio battery, you'll get a service life of about 20 hours with the Stamp running all the time and the relay triggered constantly (drain of 25mA). With the relay being triggered briefly once a minute and the Stamp asleep most of the time, you'll get a service life of hundreds of hours.
  • steve_bsteve_b Posts: 1,563
    edited 2009-09-25 13:04
    Hi,

    I am currently working on this right now.
    I have the D90 and went and bought the IR remote with the idea that I'd scope the output and recreate the pulses using the micro.
    http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=842896

    After I nearly finished, I found this fella had already done it:
    www.bigmike.it/ircontrol/
    I had to play a little with the wait timing as the commands take time to execute themselves.

    My intention was to do it on the stamp, but the wait times were less than the minimum wait time of the BS2 (which is 1mS...I need 720uS or thereabouts).
    My SXkey is broken, so I couldn't do it with the SX....which was my ultimate goal, due to it's size!
    So, I pulled out the old prop I had and did it on that.

    I'd say the remote is a power friendly way to go....pulse and sleep for xminutes.

    I am interested to know what you find about power consumption. I'd imagine the D90 to be similar....
    Also, how are you wired for power? Using the A/C jack (which has an external transformer, so it's actually a DC jack)?!

    Cheers

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    <FONT>Steve



    What's the best thing to do in a lightning storm? "take a one iron out the bag and hold it straight up above your head, even God cant hit a one iron!"
    Lee Travino after the second time being hit by lightning!
  • dredre Posts: 106
    edited 2009-09-25 20:40


    Hi Dave,

    I have been thinking of doing the same thing for use in taking photos from an RC model airplane. The coding, I believe, would be quite simple. If the interval does not have to have great accuracy the interval can be a simple 'phase' command; adjusted for the overhead coding.

    Somewhere I have filed a routine provided by Dr. Tracy Allen in which the interval timing was determined by the commands:

    do

    · if seconds // interval = 0 then [noparse][[/noparse]gosub whatever, i.e. triggering a relay]

    · phase [noparse][[/noparse]for one second - overhead coding time]

    · seconds = seconds + 1

    loop

    [noparse][[/noparse]Please, the above was drafted from memory; which is poor. ;-)]

    If you are inexperienced in coding PBasic I might suggest researching the modulus [noparse][[/noparse]//] command. It is potent.

    If interval accuracy is needed than a Real Time Clock module is in order. If so then an insert in the loop would have to be made to check to see that the seconds have advanced before doing the modulus math.

    There may need to be some additional coding for, say, when the value of seconds exceeds the allotted size and 'rolls over' to zero. I have yet to write such a program and first want to find Tracy's routine to work from. Also, Jon Williams has written many programs with timing in them. See his business's forum web site:

    http://www.efx-tek.com/php/smf/

    Also, You can download his articles from Nuts & Volts magazine from the Parallax web site under 'Resources'. See especially his column # 154.

    cheers, David

  • rdlbrdlb Posts: 8
    edited 2009-09-29 20:03
    Thanks for all the links and info you guys, I'm trying to absorb it all.

    The camera is being hacked so I don't have to pay for a plug and I've identified which wires will need to be shorted.

    I'm also learning about programming the stamp with the What is a micro controller book.

    Is there a reason why I can't just tell it to to close the relay using something like

    DO

    HIGH 14
    PAUSE 100
    LOW 14
    PAUSE (However long in between photos)

    LOOP

    The high pin will close the relay and short the shutter wires, right? so what would be the problem with this.
    I could even add a second pin to trigger another relay for autofocus first

    So why wouldn't this work? or work well?

    Thanks again,
    Dave


    Forgot--here's what I'm using to power it cgi.ebay.com/Nikon-MS-D70-MS-D70-CR2-Battery-for-Nikon-D70-D-70-D70s_W0QQitemZ200383002231QQcmdZViewItem
    Just wired a 8.4V NiMH battery into the tray, and drilled a hole in the battery door for the wires so I can close it.

    So if I want I can get 11000mAh D cells and It will take pictures for ever!!

    The proprietary Nikon DC plug is impossible to get and I'm not paying 100 bucks for the adapter just to cut the plug off...
    Plus having the leads come out the bottom is more convenient size wise, which I found out is an important concern...

    Post Edited (rdlb) : 9/29/2009 8:10:55 PM GMT
  • steve_bsteve_b Posts: 1,563
    edited 2009-09-30 13:45
    Hacking a D70....yikes! $$ camera to crack open! [noparse];)[/noparse]
    You're much more brave than I!

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    <FONT>Steve



    What's the best thing to do in a lightning storm? "take a one iron out the bag and hold it straight up above your head, even God cant hit a one iron!"
    Lee Travino after the second time being hit by lightning!
  • rdlbrdlb Posts: 8
    edited 2009-09-30 23:07
    Yeah I make a living as a photographer so I break stuff... This camera was broken (wouldn't turn on) so I opened it up to see if I could spot some trouble, better than it doing nothing at all.

    There was a little piece of metal floating around inside that must have been shorting things out cause I took it out and the camera works great. Please don't ask me where that piece of metal belongs...

    So once you crack it open the printed boards are very intimidating but the basic wiring and mechanical parts are pretty straight forward.
    Just don't do it to a camera you need for anything else, but so far I'm 1 for 1. 100% SUCCESS RATE!!
  • steve_bsteve_b Posts: 1,563
    edited 2009-10-01 12:17
    haha...first time I read that, it looked like you had a 1.100% success rate!+


    Not sure if you spotted this project....'tis very cool!
    www.sergebrunier.com/gallerie/pleinciel/index-eng.html

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    <FONT>Steve



    What's the best thing to do in a lightning storm? "take a one iron out the bag and hold it straight up above your head, even God cant hit a one iron!"
    Lee Travino after the second time being hit by lightning!
  • rdlbrdlb Posts: 8
    edited 2009-10-01 18:32
    That giant print is crazy! It must be 100ft long!!
    Very cool thanks.

    I work at the University of Hawaii and I got to go see this project on Maui...

    pan-starrs.ifa.hawaii.edu/public/
    www.hawaii.edu/malamalama/2009/06/sky-survey-and-survival/

    Me wantee giant camera...need Air Force funding...
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