A really great MOSFET to use with the Propeller... except don't forget your the
ElectricAye
Posts: 4,561
Hi all,
PhiPi recently suggested I use an IRF3708 MOSFET with the Propeller, and I must say it works really well for switching current (Thank you, PhiPi!). But I noticed that its drain is connected to the metal tab that I use for screwing the MOSFET to a heat sink, and that means the heat sink is sitting at +15 volts in the circuit I am using (see attachment). So the configuration I'm using sorta freaks me out. Is it normal to have the heat sink at voltage? I always thought things like heat sinks, etc. should be kept at ground.
Am I doing something totally stupid here or is a charged-up heat sink just something people live with under these circumstances?
thanks,
Mark
Post Edited (ElectricAye) : 9/4/2009 3:20:49 AM GMT
PhiPi recently suggested I use an IRF3708 MOSFET with the Propeller, and I must say it works really well for switching current (Thank you, PhiPi!). But I noticed that its drain is connected to the metal tab that I use for screwing the MOSFET to a heat sink, and that means the heat sink is sitting at +15 volts in the circuit I am using (see attachment). So the configuration I'm using sorta freaks me out. Is it normal to have the heat sink at voltage? I always thought things like heat sinks, etc. should be kept at ground.
Am I doing something totally stupid here or is a charged-up heat sink just something people live with under these circumstances?
thanks,
Mark
Post Edited (ElectricAye) : 9/4/2009 3:20:49 AM GMT
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Visit some of my articles at Propeller Wiki:
MATH on the propeller propeller.wikispaces.com/MATH
pPropQL: propeller.wikispaces.com/pPropQL
pPropQL020: propeller.wikispaces.com/pPropQL020
OMU for the pPropQL/020 propeller.wikispaces.com/OMU
Leon
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Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
-Phil
wow, what a relief! That's interesting. I never heard of those insulating pads. I thought for sure I had done something that rendered my design unsalvageable. Thanks, you guys, for saving my neck!
Leon
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Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
*Peter*
Thanks, Leon, it's nice to know it's not an outrageously uncommon practice.
That's a good question. I'm using this MOSFET to power a Peltier device whose performance peaks at 15 volts at 10 amps. Since Power = I 2R, I guess that means it could be "generating" about 1.2 watts of heat. That doesn't sound like much, but the device isn't very big, so I'm somewhat concerned that with my luck it might approach incandescence if I don't heat sink it somehow. In any case, I'm not familiar with MOSFETs, so I was caught off guard when I found my heat sink was able to charge my electric toothbrush. :-D
By the way, I found out the hard way that you can't use a 1k ohm or 2 k ohm resistor for R1 in my above drawing. Though it's common practice to protect the Propeller pin with such a resistor, it seems that a much lower valued resistor is needed otherwise the gate-to-source signal from the Propeller output drops too much. In fact right now I'm driving the gate without a resistor. I'm using only R2 valued at 10k (to drain the gate capacitance) and so far things have survived.
At 3.3V drive you may need a heatsink but certainly it doesn't need to be insulated.
I only just looked at your drawing but you certainly don't want a gate to source resistor at all. If you are worried about what happens when the pin floats then put the pull-down on the prop side only. If you want to protect your prop from becoming a pyrotechnic device then use a series resistor (R1) to the gate. Even 1K will stop the prop from burning even if it is zapped somehow.
Those "pull-down" resistors you see in many transistor circuits aren't necessary for your common switching circuit.
*Peter*
RON for the MOSFET he's using is spec'd for a low gate drive voltage, which is what makes it such a nice complement to the Prop.
-Phil
www.orionind.com/sil-pad.html
If you open up a switching power supply, you will notice that many HIGH-WATTAGE IC's use their TABS without a sil pad, and actually use it as a way to FEED the IC with electricity.
I have had a few devices specifically tell me to NOT use the heatsink as a way to feed power to the IC, but usually they state this.
But the insulator on the heatsink is a definite redundancy.
*Peter*
-Phil
Got it about the pull-down resistor. Thanks for the clarification. And you're right: put it on the Prop side to get the most drive voltage you can.
-Phil
Okay, I think I understand what this means and why my Prop-to-gate voltage took a dive when the +15 volt supply was turned on. It's nice to know I don't need to leave my Propeller totally exposed to the inevitable screw-ups I am destined to inflict upon it. And these thermal pads, etc. are now on my To Buy list. I've learned a lot thanks to you guys!
I'm just soaking up the love here,
Mark
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Style and grace : Nil point
For example, I've had mosfets controlling multi amp steppers, and never even needed a heatsink at all.
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The senior engineers would give us a "training course" on measuring the incoming 11KV rails. This involved lowering down the 250KVA 3 phase Switch fuses, racking them out and making sure the guard plates were locked back into the open position. With the EHT probe the rails could the be got at, if you sat cross legged in the bay and looked strait up. The volts would oblige by fizzing and crackling a bit as the probe neared.
On the HF sets the 11KV was 3 phase rectified smoothed a bit, and stuck onto the anodes. A lot of the door interlocks could be over ridden
I don't think there was ever a need of this but the seniors probably had to go through it too and now it was the fresh lot of trainees turn. There are probably a whole raft of laws against it, now. Tested the underwear, not thermally but for absorbancy.
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Style and grace : Nil point
As I said, I wouldn't bother or want to insulate these low voltage mosfets if they had separate heatsinks so it's like a lot of overkill but your choice. It's good to know about the pros and cons of insulating devices so this thread does contribute positively to the forum. If you do heastsink, use sil pads and bushes (or nylon screws), way easier.
*Peter*
I must admit all these electrified heat sink tabs leave me a bit baffled and stunned. I would have never guessed such things would be legal. I don't know enough about semiconductors to understand why such tabs must be allowed to harbor any kind of voltage. But I'm sure glad I saw it on the data sheet and didn't learn the hard way. I know it's only 15 volts, but the lesson here is to always read the all of the data sheet like your life depends on it, because one day maybe it will.
thanks for helping out,
Mark
Well you have to watch out, because there is a tax of USD$3.50 per exposed volt per unit, and if you don't pay it the Heat Sink Police will show up and confiscate your circuit board.· If the exposed voltage is over 40V you also have to pay a 20% surcharge to fund Medicare Part E, which is the universal electric hazard coverage.· It's easy enough to pay the tax by phone, the Heat Sink Police are a division of the Phone Police and they know where you live.
Also, you know that tag on your mattress that says DO NOT REMOVE?· Don't remove it unless you feel like spending the rest of your life on the Mattress Offender's List and sleeping on the grass.
There will always be some nasty volts is a mains psu. As long as there is adiquate guards, and a label "Nicht der finger gerpoken" it's all your problem.
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Style and grace : Nil point
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Style and grace : Nil point