cleaning pin holes to replace dip-20
mosquito56
Posts: 387
·Having a terrible time replacing· a dip-20 chip. I cut the chip out but cannot clean the holes to get the new chip in.
· I tried: solder wick(solder sucker), no luck
············ solder bulb, no luck
············ using solder to tin a bare wire and remove solder, no luck
Driving me crazy, help.
·How do I clean the holes?
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······· "What do you mean, it doesn't have any tubes?"
······· "No such thing as a dumb question" unless it's on the internet
Post Edited (mosquito56) : 7/29/2009 11:19:39 PM GMT
· I tried: solder wick(solder sucker), no luck
············ solder bulb, no luck
············ using solder to tin a bare wire and remove solder, no luck
Driving me crazy, help.
·How do I clean the holes?
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
·······
······· "What do you mean, it doesn't have any tubes?"
······· "No such thing as a dumb question" unless it's on the internet
Post Edited (mosquito56) : 7/29/2009 11:19:39 PM GMT
Comments
-Phil
Whether the holes are blocked with just solder, or also with bits of sawed-off chip legs, I would think the needle should force the hole clean.
David, I tried using a needle, a resistor, and a solid wire, no luck.
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·······
······· "What do you mean, it doesn't have any tubes?"
······· "No such thing as a dumb question" unless it's on the internet
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-Phil
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Parallax posesses power beyond belief.
Believe in it.
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·
How it works: It is very easy to blow molten solder out of a hole (or suck it out using a solder sucker as Phil mentions). The trick is, that if you wick down too much solder, heat can't transfer well, so that last little bit becomes a major pain. So, add some solder back to the hole so you can obtain a "fully molten blob" and your luck should change.
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Andrew Williams
WBA Consulting
IT / Web / PCB / Audio
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Using a small-tipped temperature-controlled soldering iron wih·a 700 or 800 degree tip, flood the pad and the hole with nice new 60/40 solder.· Then use solder wick to suck it all out.· This always works, although it may sometimes take more than one try if the particular hole is especially dirty.
If there's a hole for which it just won't work on one side of the board, try it on the other side -- there may be debris (such as lead oxides or even ordinary dirt)·that won't pass clear through the hole.
Not only does it work every time, but almost always the hole comes so clean that it's every bit as good as new.
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· -- Carl, nn5i@arrl.net
but i have blown the solder out of holes before i was gonna say to try that but i was already trying to im three people at once lol
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Parallax posesses power beyond belief.
Believe in it.
Visit me at
http://jrelectromech.services.officelive.com/default.aspx
·
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Parallax posesses power beyond belief.
Believe in it.
Visit me at
http://jrelectromech.services.officelive.com/default.aspx
·
I've got an expensive electric desoldering station but more often than not rely on this little device for the stubborn jobs.
-Phil
Depending on the IC and tolerance of the hole I sometimes will cut the legs of the IC and then remove each leg individually from the pcb if the holes are too tight.
One thing to remember- heat damages pcb traces just as much as it can a component. I have repaired my share of pcb's from desoldering before I finally invested in the Hakko. You can usually find them on Ebay.
Post Edited (Don M) : 7/30/2009 12:47:37 PM GMT
Have you done much work repairing single sided boards? That is one place where the solder wick does seem to work really well. That and removing excess solder from a surface mount device.
For DIP components on a double sided board I usually break out the old PACE desoldering unit with the built-in vacuum pump. As it the solder is being vacuumed up I usually use the tip to wiggle the lead on the part to make sure it is free and not stuck to the edge of the hole. Once the leads are all done I usually use a small set of needle nose pliers to make sure each pin is free. You want to be careful not to damage the through hole plating within the hole. If the pin gets stuck and you pull out the part you may end up pulling out the plating in the hole! In that case you have to be very careful soldering in the new part and manually solder both sides of the part. I have an old Pinbot pinball machine that a set of lamps weren't working and the problem was someone replaced a transistor and pulled out the plating. When they soldered in the new part it was only soldered on the bottom of the board and since the solder didn't flow through the top connection was open.
Other times if the part is trashed I cut the leads at the part. Then add some extra solder so the heat will flow through all the solder easily. Heat each pin and while the solder is molten pull out the lead with needle nose pliers. To remove the solder use a solder removal station, solder sucker, or wick.
Robert