> Unless I'm misunderstanding, it seems that you have different opinions reference multiple capacitors in close proximity around the circuit?
I don't think that much.
Place capacitors near every IC and near the voltage regulator.
I don't know the values for C4..C6. But at least one should be near the 3.3V regulator.
The other thing with having two caps of the same value (maybe C4 & C5) so close together is, that it doesn't make too much sense to me. If this would be a SMT-Propeller and SMT-caps on the buttom side with the shortest connection possible, then OK. But in a PDIP, the bonding wires are already longer than the traces on your board.
Also, I don't like those fat traces. How many amps do you intend to consume?
Also, left from C4..C6, there's a funny solution for a single signal. pin 9 & 10 of the Prop and the P0-P7 connector.
Nick
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Never use force, just go for a bigger hammer!
The DIY Digital-Readout for mills, lathes etc.: YADRO
You are maybe corect.
But with overclocking it is good to have.
one 10nF, one 100nf and one tantalum 22uF-47uF.
That give all 3 suitable place
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Nothing is impossible, there are only different degrees of difficulty. For every stupid question there is at least one intelligent answer. Don't guess - ask instead. If you don't ask you won't know. If your gonna construct something, make it·as simple as·possible yet as versatile as posible.
That's looking much better. I see you caught the miss-wiring of the EEPROM. The program I use to do board layouts and generate the "Gerbers" that most PCB houses take is FreePCB. I find FreePCB to be an excellent manual layout program. It supports copper planes, DRC, netlist import, etc. Netlist import is important. A netlist is a text file generated from the circuit schematics that describes what pins are connected, what component packages are used, and how many of each component to what. A good layout package can then read the netlist and show air/rat wires connecting things, and check if all the parts are connected as shown in the schematic. I use TinyCAD to generate schematics and netlists, it works but is hardly impressive.
Lawson
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Lunch cures all problems! have you had lunch?
> But with overclocking it is good to have.
> one 10nF, one 100nf and one tantalum 22uF-47uF.
In my eyes, that's snake-oil.
When I scope my Propeller (SMD) with two 100nF on the bottom-side close to Vcc I see ... nothing. Just the noise from the input-amplifier. Current drawn increases about linear with speed.
Nick
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Never use force, just go for a bigger hammer!
The DIY Digital-Readout for mills, lathes etc.: YADRO
10nF and 100nF is not for curent.
Them is for protect power rails for parasitic frequencies to and from Prppeller in wide spectra.
You are corect at curent increase linear with speed. But Propeller chip have non linear curent consumption.
More speed ... more variations on curent drawing.
It is nature of Propeller chip ... With start/stop of every COG You increase/decrease curent consumption.
With every start/stop of WAIT instruction it has same behavior.
And if You not have Big cap near Propeller and to smal and to long power traces samt other IC's on power rails that dry curent from power rails.
You can have to big momentary variations in Voltage in Propeller's PLL that give You instablity in runing Propeller stable.
With big variations it is posible PLL fails totaly and posibly burn out.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Nothing is impossible, there are only different degrees of difficulty. For every stupid question there is at least one intelligent answer. Don't guess - ask instead. If you don't ask you won't know. If your gonna construct something, make it·as simple as·possible yet as versatile as posible.
Oh!?
Capacitors are there for variations in current. And if you have little current, consequently the variations will be even smaller.
Voltage drops due to variations in current that a capacitor can cure have two causes:
reaction time of the volatge-regulator -> big capacitor close to it.
inductance of the trace from VR to IC -> layout; small cap close to IC considering the minute inductance a trace normaly has.
BTW:
What is a "parasitic frequency"?
Nick
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Never use force, just go for a bigger hammer!
The DIY Digital-Readout for mills, lathes etc.: YADRO
Parasitics are things like stray capacitance and inductance that can cause a component to become resonant at a certain frequency. A decoupling capacitor might be resonant at 100 MHz, for instance. It's usually specified in the data sheet.
Leon
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
First. > What is a "parasitic frequency"?
all transistors that swith ON/OFF give You that frequencies out.
It is never clean ON/OFF but litle bounce that produce that "parasitic frequency" on top of Yours signal.
Second.
Look at picture that I cut from .PDF document You recomended-
Maybe You understand more that my bad English.
Regards
Christoffer
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Nothing is impossible, there are only different degrees of difficulty. For every stupid question there is at least one intelligent answer. Don't guess - ask instead. If you don't ask you won't know. If your gonna construct something, make it·as simple as·possible yet as versatile as posible.
I've performed some tidying up as well as incorporating the latest recommendations, I've also switched from the large 0.050" track default to 0.025" as this seems to be the more common place to use. The reason I had originally gone for the 0.050" tracks was due to advice in the PDF that Nick mentioned, it stated that all tracks should be 0.050" and only smaller if necessary.
I also included a picture of the board without the silk screen layer this time, should make things easier to see.
For signal traces You can have even smaler that 0.025 but for Power traces I recomend litle more wide traces that can suply IC with more power at time with less resistance in traces
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Nothing is impossible, there are only different degrees of difficulty. For every stupid question there is at least one intelligent answer. Don't guess - ask instead. If you don't ask you won't know. If your gonna construct something, make it·as simple as·possible yet as versatile as posible.
You asked for a PCB manufacturer that could handle small orders. I have not tried them yet, but take a look at sparkfun.coms "Batch PCB". It claims good prices, but you may have to wait a little while!
Look at just your tracks bmp. You will see the Rx line wanders under R2. If you clean that up, you can clean up the Tx line. Then you can re-route the Rst line down under the prop and link it under the prop across the power and ground traces and then between say pins·8 &·9 of the prop and around the outside and back between Vdd and Vss on the connector to pin 11. You can use a thinner trace for this track, say 0.010". (see better way on my dwg)·Now you can bring a heavier track directly from pin 12 to the connector Vdd. Don't forget to put a decoupling cap for this power off-board between the 2 connectors.
Now, turn your capacitors·C4, C5 & C6·vertical. (see dwg) C4 & c6 will be 100nF and C5 is 10uF-47uF tantalum for overclocking. Sapeiha may have more thoughts on this.
Hope this helps
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Links to other interesting threads:
bambino said...
You asked for a PCB manufacturer that could handle small orders. I have not tried them yet, but take a look at sparkfun.coms "Batch PCB". It claims good prices, but you may have to wait a little while!
I've used Batch PCB once so far. They're the cheapest I've found so far for getting one PCB. The turn around is a bit slow, but you get cheap and quality in return. For larger volume orders or quick turn around the various US based internet PCB houses are better. And for large volume slower turn around I've heard that going direct to Gold Phenix (manufacturer Batch PCB uses) is the best deal.
Lawson
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Lunch cures all problems! have you had lunch?
For a 1oz copper board low current(<500mA) signal traces can be 8mil-12mil.
Power traces for 1oz copper:
0-2A - 40mil/A
2-6A - 60mil/A
6-12 - 80mil/A
12-22 - 100mil/A
For 2oz copper divide by 2
For 3oz copper divide by 3
...
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
propmod_us and propmod_1x1 are in stock. Only $30. PCB available for $5
Want to make projects and have Gadget Gangster sell them for you? propmod-us_ps_sd and propmod-1x1 are now available for use in your Gadget Gangster Projects.
Need to upload large images or movies for use in the forum. you can do so at uploader.propmodule.com for free.
BatchPCB does look like a good deal, as long as you don't mind the waiting time. I actually went ahead and ordered some ferric chloride and single sided PCB board last night and plan to, at least, etch the first board or two myself. Once I'm 110% happy I may go ahead and have some professional looking ones made.
I've incorporated the new suggestions and also made some more tidying up changes. In addition, I've decided to include a 7805 regulator to make 5V available to accessories also, I like to play with LCD's a lot so this will be a worthwhile addition for me.
OK, now it got better again. There was a time when you lost track.
But the nonsense with C4, C5, C6, C8 is really ridiculous (sorry!). But then, it doesn't hurt.
There's a useless bent at Prop pin #40.
Nick
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Never use force, just go for a bigger hammer!
The DIY Digital-Readout for mills, lathes etc.: YADRO
Painless: That is a huge improvement and yes a single sided pcb is now very real.
Nick: You need to read the other threads, like the 6.25MHz one. Overclocking is now a reality, and these capacitors are ABSOLUTELY required for overclocking. We have the proof - see these threads... Admittedly, it is not so relevant for normal 80MHz (5MHz xtal) but it may as well be right there for possible use.
Sapieha has 120MHz running on a TriBlade for 3 months continuous testing with between (25-30C temp in my room) with no isues at all.
Coley has 141.875776 MHz at 4.5V
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Links to other interesting threads:
> Nick: You need to read the other threads, like the 6.25MHz one.
I have read them. But maybe I missed the point where someone wrote that it didn't work with only two caps. Has anyone scoped that claim? Maybe I missed that point too.
Furthermore, what are 25% speed increase? You can easily double the speed with good software design or an compiler instead of SPIN.
I'm not saying, that the 4 caps do not work. But if the next one is getting 141,938953499365 MHz with 7 caps, all will jump onto the 7-caps-wagon.
Nick
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Never use force, just go for a bigger hammer!
The DIY Digital-Readout for mills, lathes etc.: YADRO
the 3 caps are not 100% needed but a very good precaution if you are going to try to overclock. You can always easily add the extra caps later by buying some 0805 surface mount caps and soldering them across the power pins.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
propmod_us and propmod_1x1 are in stock. Only $30. PCB available for $5
Want to make projects and have Gadget Gangster sell them for you? propmod-us_ps_sd and propmod-1x1 are now available for use in your Gadget Gangster Projects.
Need to upload large images or movies for use in the forum. you can do so at uploader.propmodule.com for free.
Finally, after waiting for bits and pieces in the mail (namely ferric chloride, board and female headers) the Port-A-Prop prototype is alive!
As you can see in the photo I etched a single sided board with only three jump wires, this is my second board as I did learn a few things:
1) The headers were too close to the prop, I hadn't allowed room for the IC sockets.
2) The capacitors were a tight squeeze under the prop, will need to re-think this or probably opt for some smaller (size) caps.
3) I need to include the 5v and its Gnd on the 10 pin female header (moving it up to 12 pins), for now I've soldered wires into the holes.
I don't have a prop plug at the moment, so haven't tested the upload circuit, but simply loaded an EEPROM on my PropRPM to test it with.
I have had some inquiries of interest in purchasing the PCB, so I may look into putting some professionally made ones up for sale once I'm 110% happy that it's reliable.
Thanks again to everyone who contributed to my fun education experience!
Comments
I don't think that much.
Place capacitors near every IC and near the voltage regulator.
I don't know the values for C4..C6. But at least one should be near the 3.3V regulator.
The other thing with having two caps of the same value (maybe C4 & C5) so close together is, that it doesn't make too much sense to me. If this would be a SMT-Propeller and SMT-caps on the buttom side with the shortest connection possible, then OK. But in a PDIP, the bonding wires are already longer than the traces on your board.
Also, I don't like those fat traces. How many amps do you intend to consume?
Also, left from C4..C6, there's a funny solution for a single signal. pin 9 & 10 of the Prop and the P0-P7 connector.
Nick
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Never use force, just go for a bigger hammer!
The DIY Digital-Readout for mills, lathes etc.:
YADRO
You are maybe corect.
But with overclocking it is good to have.
one 10nF, one 100nf and one tantalum 22uF-47uF.
That give all 3 suitable place
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Nothing is impossible, there are only different degrees of difficulty.
For every stupid question there is at least one intelligent answer.
Don't guess - ask instead.
If you don't ask you won't know.
If your gonna construct something, make it·as simple as·possible yet as versatile as posible.
Sapieha
Lawson
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Lunch cures all problems! have you had lunch?
> one 10nF, one 100nf and one tantalum 22uF-47uF.
In my eyes, that's snake-oil.
When I scope my Propeller (SMD) with two 100nF on the bottom-side close to Vcc I see ... nothing. Just the noise from the input-amplifier. Current drawn increases about linear with speed.
Nick
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Never use force, just go for a bigger hammer!
The DIY Digital-Readout for mills, lathes etc.:
YADRO
10nF and 100nF is not for curent.
Them is for protect power rails for parasitic frequencies to and from Prppeller in wide spectra.
You are corect at curent increase linear with speed. But Propeller chip have non linear curent consumption.
More speed ... more variations on curent drawing.
It is nature of Propeller chip ... With start/stop of every COG You increase/decrease curent consumption.
With every start/stop of WAIT instruction it has same behavior.
And if You not have Big cap near Propeller and to smal and to long power traces samt other IC's on power rails that dry curent from power rails.
You can have to big momentary variations in Voltage in Propeller's PLL that give You instablity in runing Propeller stable.
With big variations it is posible PLL fails totaly and posibly burn out.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Nothing is impossible, there are only different degrees of difficulty.
For every stupid question there is at least one intelligent answer.
Don't guess - ask instead.
If you don't ask you won't know.
If your gonna construct something, make it·as simple as·possible yet as versatile as posible.
Sapieha
Leon
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
Oh!?
Capacitors are there for variations in current. And if you have little current, consequently the variations will be even smaller.
Voltage drops due to variations in current that a capacitor can cure have two causes:
reaction time of the volatge-regulator -> big capacitor close to it.
inductance of the trace from VR to IC -> layout; small cap close to IC considering the minute inductance a trace normaly has.
BTW:
What is a "parasitic frequency"?
Nick
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Never use force, just go for a bigger hammer!
The DIY Digital-Readout for mills, lathes etc.:
YADRO
Leon
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
First. > What is a "parasitic frequency"?
all transistors that swith ON/OFF give You that frequencies out.
It is never clean ON/OFF but litle bounce that produce that "parasitic frequency" on top of Yours signal.
Second.
Look at picture that I cut from .PDF document You recomended-
Maybe You understand more that my bad English.
Regards
Christoffer
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Nothing is impossible, there are only different degrees of difficulty.
For every stupid question there is at least one intelligent answer.
Don't guess - ask instead.
If you don't ask you won't know.
If your gonna construct something, make it·as simple as·possible yet as versatile as posible.
Sapieha
I've performed some tidying up as well as incorporating the latest recommendations, I've also switched from the large 0.050" track default to 0.025" as this seems to be the more common place to use. The reason I had originally gone for the 0.050" tracks was due to advice in the PDF that Nick mentioned, it stated that all tracks should be 0.050" and only smaller if necessary.
I also included a picture of the board without the silk screen layer this time, should make things easier to see.
Russ.
For signal traces You can have even smaler that 0.025 but for Power traces I recomend litle more wide traces that can suply IC with more power at time with less resistance in traces
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Nothing is impossible, there are only different degrees of difficulty.
For every stupid question there is at least one intelligent answer.
Don't guess - ask instead.
If you don't ask you won't know.
If your gonna construct something, make it·as simple as·possible yet as versatile as posible.
Sapieha
Wider tracks have less inductance.
Leon
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
May I still make a few suggestions...
Look at just your tracks bmp. You will see the Rx line wanders under R2. If you clean that up, you can clean up the Tx line. Then you can re-route the Rst line down under the prop and link it under the prop across the power and ground traces and then between say pins·8 &·9 of the prop and around the outside and back between Vdd and Vss on the connector to pin 11. You can use a thinner trace for this track, say 0.010". (see better way on my dwg)·Now you can bring a heavier track directly from pin 12 to the connector Vdd. Don't forget to put a decoupling cap for this power off-board between the 2 connectors.
Now, turn your capacitors·C4, C5 & C6·vertical. (see dwg) C4 & c6 will be 100nF and C5 is 10uF-47uF tantalum for overclocking. Sapeiha may have more thoughts on this.
Hope this helps
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Links to other interesting threads:
· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp, RamBlade, TwinBlade,·SixBlade, website
· Single Board Computer:·3 Propeller ICs·and a·TriBladeProp board (ZiCog Z80 Emulator)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index)
· Emulators: Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100 (Index) ZiCog (Z80), MoCog (6809)
· Search the Propeller forums (via Google)
My cruising website is: ·www.bluemagic.biz·· MultiBladeProp is: www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm
I've used Batch PCB once so far. They're the cheapest I've found so far for getting one PCB. The turn around is a bit slow, but you get cheap and quality in return. For larger volume orders or quick turn around the various US based internet PCB houses are better. And for large volume slower turn around I've heard that going direct to Gold Phenix (manufacturer Batch PCB uses) is the best deal.
Lawson
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Lunch cures all problems! have you had lunch?
Power traces for 1oz copper:
0-2A - 40mil/A
2-6A - 60mil/A
6-12 - 80mil/A
12-22 - 100mil/A
For 2oz copper divide by 2
For 3oz copper divide by 3
...
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
propmod_us and propmod_1x1 are in stock. Only $30. PCB available for $5
Want to make projects and have Gadget Gangster sell them for you? propmod-us_ps_sd and propmod-1x1 are now available for use in your Gadget Gangster Projects.
Need to upload large images or movies for use in the forum. you can do so at uploader.propmodule.com for free.
I've incorporated the new suggestions and also made some more tidying up changes. In addition, I've decided to include a 7805 regulator to make 5V available to accessories also, I like to play with LCD's a lot so this will be a worthwhile addition for me.
Here's what I hope is the final layout.
Thanks to everyone who has contributed!
Russ.
But the nonsense with C4, C5, C6, C8 is really ridiculous (sorry!). But then, it doesn't hurt.
There's a useless bent at Prop pin #40.
Nick
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Never use force, just go for a bigger hammer!
The DIY Digital-Readout for mills, lathes etc.:
YADRO
Nick: You need to read the other threads, like the 6.25MHz one. Overclocking is now a reality, and these capacitors are ABSOLUTELY required for overclocking. We have the proof - see these threads... Admittedly, it is not so relevant for normal 80MHz (5MHz xtal) but it may as well be right there for possible use.
The 6.250MHz crystals are in! Run your Propeller at 100MHz... http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=816915
Overclocking the Propeller - What's your highest speed? http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=816947
Sapieha has 120MHz running on a TriBlade for 3 months continuous testing with between (25-30C temp in my room) with no isues at all.
Coley has 141.875776 MHz at 4.5V
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Links to other interesting threads:
· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp, RamBlade, TwinBlade,·SixBlade, website
· Single Board Computer:·3 Propeller ICs·and a·TriBladeProp board (ZiCog Z80 Emulator)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index)
· Emulators: Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100 (Index) ZiCog (Z80), MoCog (6809)
· Search the Propeller forums (via Google)
My cruising website is: ·www.bluemagic.biz·· MultiBladeProp is: www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm
I have read them. But maybe I missed the point where someone wrote that it didn't work with only two caps. Has anyone scoped that claim? Maybe I missed that point too.
Furthermore, what are 25% speed increase? You can easily double the speed with good software design or an compiler instead of SPIN.
I'm not saying, that the 4 caps do not work. But if the next one is getting 141,938953499365 MHz with 7 caps, all will jump onto the 7-caps-wagon.
Nick
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Never use force, just go for a bigger hammer!
The DIY Digital-Readout for mills, lathes etc.:
YADRO
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
propmod_us and propmod_1x1 are in stock. Only $30. PCB available for $5
Want to make projects and have Gadget Gangster sell them for you? propmod-us_ps_sd and propmod-1x1 are now available for use in your Gadget Gangster Projects.
Need to upload large images or movies for use in the forum. you can do so at uploader.propmodule.com for free.
As you can see in the photo I etched a single sided board with only three jump wires, this is my second board as I did learn a few things:
1) The headers were too close to the prop, I hadn't allowed room for the IC sockets.
2) The capacitors were a tight squeeze under the prop, will need to re-think this or probably opt for some smaller (size) caps.
3) I need to include the 5v and its Gnd on the 10 pin female header (moving it up to 12 pins), for now I've soldered wires into the holes.
I don't have a prop plug at the moment, so haven't tested the upload circuit, but simply loaded an EEPROM on my PropRPM to test it with.
I have had some inquiries of interest in purchasing the PCB, so I may look into putting some professionally made ones up for sale once I'm 110% happy that it's reliable.
Thanks again to everyone who contributed to my fun education experience!
Russ.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Links to other interesting threads:
· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp, RamBlade, TwinBlade,·SixBlade, website
· Single Board Computer:·3 Propeller ICs·and a·TriBladeProp board (ZiCog Z80 Emulator)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index)
· Emulators: Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100 (Index) ZiCog (Z80), MoCog (6809)
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I've never etched a board myself. I bet you did learn a lot! Keep up the good work.
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Whit+
"We keep moving forward, opening new doors, and doing new things, because we're curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths." - Walt Disney
I've never etched a board myself. I bet you did learn a lot! Keep up the good work.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Whit+
"We keep moving forward, opening new doors, and doing new things, because we're curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths." - Walt Disney