Why did my Stamp2p-40 just fry itself???
everest
Posts: 141
I'm at the end of my rope with this Stamp2p-40 and this Professional Development Board. Here's the situation as of tonight.
For starters, I'm doing all of my experimentation and design on my BoE board with my Stamp2 because I'd rather fry a $49 chip than my shiny new $90 Stamp2p-40. . .which didn't work in this case! Here's exactly what I did:
1) I am using an NTE46 darlington transistor with the emitter connected to the power supply ground, the collector attached to VIN, and the base attached to Stamp2 Pin0
2) The VIN connection also runs through the coil of my 10A relay
3) When I take the Stamp2 pin HIGH, *snap* the relay activates. . .and when I take it LOW *snap* it releases.
So now that I know it all works and is safe (NOT), I replicated the circuit EXACTLY on my Professional Development Board, hook it up to Pin0 on my Stamp2p-40 and *pow* I smell cooking electronics. . .and pin0 is now toast on my Stamp2p-40. . .
So I power it off quickly, let it all cool down and carefully check the circuit. . .it's perfect. . .exactly like it was on the BoE board!?!?
Now I'm getting irritated because this is the 3rd problem I've had with this new set-up, including the whole rebooting when I make serial connections. . .so I remove the Stamp2p-40 from the Professional Development Board and put in my Stamp2. . .and run the same code. . .*snap* *snap* *snap*. . .it runs FINE. In fact it's running now. . .Note that I just swapped chips. . .everything else is exactly the same.
So why the heck did my Stamp2p-40 try to kill itself and fry a pin??? I'm at a complete loss.. .what makes these chips so different? Help!
-Jeff
For starters, I'm doing all of my experimentation and design on my BoE board with my Stamp2 because I'd rather fry a $49 chip than my shiny new $90 Stamp2p-40. . .which didn't work in this case! Here's exactly what I did:
1) I am using an NTE46 darlington transistor with the emitter connected to the power supply ground, the collector attached to VIN, and the base attached to Stamp2 Pin0
2) The VIN connection also runs through the coil of my 10A relay
3) When I take the Stamp2 pin HIGH, *snap* the relay activates. . .and when I take it LOW *snap* it releases.
So now that I know it all works and is safe (NOT), I replicated the circuit EXACTLY on my Professional Development Board, hook it up to Pin0 on my Stamp2p-40 and *pow* I smell cooking electronics. . .and pin0 is now toast on my Stamp2p-40. . .
So I power it off quickly, let it all cool down and carefully check the circuit. . .it's perfect. . .exactly like it was on the BoE board!?!?
Now I'm getting irritated because this is the 3rd problem I've had with this new set-up, including the whole rebooting when I make serial connections. . .so I remove the Stamp2p-40 from the Professional Development Board and put in my Stamp2. . .and run the same code. . .*snap* *snap* *snap*. . .it runs FINE. In fact it's running now. . .Note that I just swapped chips. . .everything else is exactly the same.
So why the heck did my Stamp2p-40 try to kill itself and fry a pin??? I'm at a complete loss.. .what makes these chips so different? Help!
-Jeff
Comments
As for why the BS2p40 fries and the BS2 does not? My theory is that since the p40 can source an extra 10 mA per pin (and 20 per group) that it cranks up the transistor a bit more, and creates it's own short... Just a theory.
Post Edited (SRLM) : 6/19/2009 6:06:03 AM GMT
Here's a schematic:
And please don't ask, "But, but, why did it work for the BS2, then?" You were just extraordinarily lucky, that's all!
-Phil
I've gotten this to work actually. . .I put in two 330K resistors between Pin1 and the NTE46 transistor and it actually is working at this point. I also put the collector and emitter directly to the 12v power supply vs. using VIN, and that actually makes this chip run much cooler. . .it didn't fry anyways. . .
I'm still trying to figure out why I lose Pin0 though!! I guess I have enough on this chip still, but I hate breaking new toys, particularly when I can't even learn from the experience [noparse]:([/noparse]
-Jeff
Thanks for the note!! I'd completely forgotten the diodes, but I did remember the resistors, which are now in the circuit. I'll pick up some diodes tomorrow and add those in as well. . .my prototype unit actually does have diodes in place, I'd just forgotten about them here! Thanks!
So the lack of a resistor overdrew the max the pin could provide. . .toasting it? Oh and why did it work for BS2. . .errr. . .wait. . .got it, I was lucky [noparse]:)[/noparse] [noparse]:)[/noparse]
-J
Without the base resistor, your Pin 0 was driving pretty much a dead short. That would be enough to cause the pin to fail. 330K is a bit high, BTW, and may cause the Darlington not to saturate, which means it may overheat. Try a 2.2K instead.
-Phil
P.S. Did you remember the protection diode across the relay coil?
Addendum: Looks like our posts crossed. You got it all, though.
-J
-Phil
-J
In a related story, if anyone wants to buy a used BS2-SX that doubles as a space heater, feel free to PM me.
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·"If you build it, they will come."
-Jeff
A switching transistor circuit for a relay does not mandate the use of a Darlington. In fact, I would say that this is not ideal transistor for this since it could actually demand more current to saturate. By contrast, a small signal switching transistor would do just fine, like a 2N2222.
You keep saying 10A relay, but that is just the contact rating. What are the details for the coil itself? Knowing the Coil Voltage and Coil resistance... would help here.
Technically, the transistor on P0 should appear to the STAMP the same as if it turned on an LED or a relay. The Pin sees a small load... the transistor takes the heaver load. That's why we use that circuit shown above.
On the other hand, relays introduce an inductive kick to the circuit that if improperly handled and isolated can find it's way down a path that could be destructive... as you found out.
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There's nothing like a new idea and a warm soldering iron.
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·"If you build it, they will come."
-J