Propeller resetting when I don't want it.
Bobb Fwed
Posts: 1,119
I have had a problem for a little bit now. My propeller project works around a lot of ambient frequencies and random induction. I have noticed that when certain electrical things change suddenly near the PCB, the propeller tends to reset. It seems the programming traces (or wire when I have it plugged in) act as an antenna, and the (somewhat) weak pull up is being over powered by the change in the electrical field.
I am hoping I can fix this by placing a resistor to my 3.3V source from the reset pin on the propeller. Is this sound practice? Will I still be able to program the chip? I figure adding a 2.2K- or 5.1K-ohm resistor to augment the 5K internal resistor should do the trick (I may need even less resistance, but i won't know until I test it).
Are there other solutions?
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
April, 2008: when I discovered the answers to all my micro-computational-botherations!
I am hoping I can fix this by placing a resistor to my 3.3V source from the reset pin on the propeller. Is this sound practice? Will I still be able to program the chip? I figure adding a 2.2K- or 5.1K-ohm resistor to augment the 5K internal resistor should do the trick (I may need even less resistance, but i won't know until I test it).
Are there other solutions?
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
April, 2008: when I discovered the answers to all my micro-computational-botherations!
Comments
-Phil
What does your power supply directly to the Propeller look like?
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Beau Schwabe
IC Layout Engineer
Parallax, Inc.
The next version of the PCB I placed the programming "port" at the edge of PCB so the port could accessed from outside of a plastic enclosure. So the traces are now 8cm or so.
For both, the traces are 0.01"-width with a simple 4-pin 0.1"-spacing header to plug the Prop Plug in.
The newest version of the board (haven't yet ordered it) has 0.006" wide traces for the programming traces, but the length is about the same. I have also added a optional placement of a resistor as described above.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
April, 2008: when I discovered the answers to all my micro-computational-botherations!
Post Edited (Bobb Fwed) : 6/16/2009 6:51:02 PM GMT
On the PCB itself I have a 1000µF cap on the incoming power, NTE1904 3.3V regulator with a 1F (30-ohm ESR) cap and a 470µF (0.45-ohm ESR) cap for stabilization (the datasheet says the 1904 only requires 27µF or something like that). I have 1F cap so the chip can continue to operate for a short period of time after power has been removed, and I have the 470 for the somewhat low ESR (for stabilization).
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
April, 2008: when I discovered the answers to all my micro-computational-botherations!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
April, 2008: when I discovered the answers to all my micro-computational-botherations!
-Phil
Leon
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
I just remembered though. an early prototype did have a Polyester Metalized cap right next to the power. That had the same problems though. I don't think it is a power supply problem.
With my oscilloscope, there is essentially nothing but a flat line with it turned all the way up (5mV div) on the 3.3V power plane.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
April, 2008: when I discovered the answers to all my micro-computational-botherations!
You really need bypass caps on at least two of the Vdd pins. The 470uF cap is a filter cap and does not provide the bypass function.
-Phil
Are bypass caps the same as decoupling caps, across VDD and VSS? Are 102s appropriate?
Mine is resetting too once in a while...
Rich H
-Phil
To block high frequensies (parasitic frequensies)·to and from Propeller use 10 to 100 nF ceramic capasitors (decoupling) parallel with 10 to 47 uF Tantalum caps for stablity of power to Propeller.
All near Propeller if You have more IC's on PCB.
Ceramic caps will be on every power pair to Propeller. Tantalum on pair nearest Crystal.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Nothing is impossible, there are only different degrees of difficulty.
For every stupid question there is at least one intelligent answer.
Don't guess - ask instead.
If you don't ask you won't know.
If your gonna construct something, make it·as simple as·possible yet as versatile as posible.
Sapieha
Rich H
I still don't think the prop resetting is a power problem. When I attach an "extension cord" to my programming port the problem is much more frequent. Just that change isn't affecting the power, it is affecting pin 30/31 and reset. The reset pin of which is the only potential problem.
Regardless of the need to decouple. My original question stands: is it ok to pull the reset pin high? At what point do I stand a chance of damaging the prop plug when I attempt to program with an additional pull-up resistor?
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
April, 2008: when I discovered the answers to all my micro-computational-botherations!
PropPlug drive Reset by transistor (open collector) and that wil not colision with FTD chip pins
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Nothing is impossible, there are only different degrees of difficulty.
For every stupid question there is at least one intelligent answer.
Don't guess - ask instead.
If you don't ask you won't know.
If your gonna construct something, make it·as simple as·possible yet as versatile as posible.
Sapieha
My other thought would be to add a ground plane. Hm, on second look it would appear that a ground and power plane exist on Bobb's layout, but are hidden. In that case I'd try to minimize the fragmentation of the ground plane. The propeller is very nice it this regard, because it's easy to juggle pins around to untangle a layout. (i.e. almost no fixed function pins) Have you tried adding a metal shield between the prop board and the worst of the interference sources?
My 2 bits
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Lunch cures all problems! have you had lunch?
As for shielding it, it would essentially have to be a complete enclosure of metal. The interference is coming from almost 360-degrees on all axis (ie. it's in the middle of the problem). But due to other design and assembly issues (not to mention the bulk pricing) I cannot go to a metal enclosure.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
April, 2008: when I discovered the answers to all my micro-computational-botherations!
What is your BOEn attached to?
using a strong pullup resistor on the RES line shouldn't hurt anything.
If you calculate the current at 3.3v through a 1k, you will see its only 3.3 ma of current. Most LED's pull that much, eaisly.
But if you use a 1k, it might mess up high speed communications, I use a 1k and its fine for me.
You can try 10k also. Or variation in between 1k and 10k.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
TERMS OF USE: MIT License
"Permission is hereby granted, free of charge, to any pers...........................
..............................OMITTED FOR FORUM...............................................
.................. OF OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE SOFTWARE OR THE USE OR OTHER DEALINGS IN THE SOFTWARE. "
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
April, 2008: when I discovered the answers to all my micro-computational-botherations!