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Programming the BS2 without the parallax carrier board??? — Parallax Forums

Programming the BS2 without the parallax carrier board???

morris4019morris4019 Posts: 145
edited 2009-05-20 17:34 in BASIC Stamp
Is there any information anywhere about programming of a BS2 or just the interpreter/eeprom without using a parallax carrier board? I am designing a PCB at the moment that has to fit in a small area, at most I can fit just the BS2xx-IC. The rest of the room will be taken up by other components. I found a short explanation·on parallax's "BS2 FAQ" page but it's not exactly a schematic. Anyone know of a better explanation/instruction on how to inplement the bs2 without using the carrier board?



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······ I'll try everything once [noparse]:)[/noparse]

Comments

  • morris4019morris4019 Posts: 145
    edited 2009-05-19 00:52
    Actually, duh... I found the schematic for the BS2 Carrier board on the website and things became a lot clearer. So basically i can build my own carrier circuit on to my new PCB right. Plug the 24pin bs2-ic in a 24pin socket. Run the sout to pin 7 of db9 connector, sin to pin 3 of connector, dtr of connector through a .1uf cap to atn as well as through another .1uf cap to ground, and then ground pin5 of connector, and run pin 7 to pin 6 of connector? This should allow me to run the same software and everything to program a BS2-ic?

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    ······ I'll try everything once [noparse]:)[/noparse]
  • servelloservello Posts: 113
    edited 2009-05-19 02:20
    Here are two photos of my setup. I hope they help.

    Please take note of the 0.1uF Capacitors.

    By the way . . .

    ***Warning! Warning! The following statement is NOT meant to be mean spirited!***

    Did you read the Warning? I hope so.

    I wish I would receive replies as helpful as I have made this. Usually it's just, "well, go ahead and read What's A Microcontroller, or "see the schematic of the BS2", or "you probably should just purchase and use the BS2 OEM".

    Of course, those are actually good advice. I just feel it would be more beneficial to help the person first and then give them those type of suggestions?

    I sincerely hope that this remark will not be taken the wrong way, and as a result, prompts a slew of replies trying to explain to me that it actually is helpful to the original poster to have them find the info themselves. Because I happen to agree with that. Again, I agree with that. However, the two (giving the help, then suggestions on where to go for more detailed info) need not be exclusive of each other.

    I love Parallax, their products and this forum.

    Best,
    Dominic

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  • FranklinFranklin Posts: 4,747
    edited 2009-05-19 02:46
    servello, I understand where you are comming from but 'most' of the products sold by Parallax are for learning or 'proof of concept' applications. To help people learn the people here tend to point the person to the places they can get the information they requested and the next piece they will need when they sort out their original problem. There are many posts here from people that have not 'read the manual' and don't want to do the work but just want someone to show them or write the code they need. Some will even ask questions and then argue with the answers they get. Sorry if this is a harsh view but you will find if you have a specific question it will get addressed most of the time (if someone knows the answer)

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  • servelloservello Posts: 113
    edited 2009-05-19 03:50
    Hello Stephen,

    Thank you for the polite reply, your comments were not harsh at all. I hope other (if any) replies are as considerate. I was truly not trying to chastise the good people on this forum.

    You are certainly correct in that there are lazy people out there, or even cheaters, if they are students. I guess I'm a bit naive. I myself do not think or act that way and I foolishly think others do the same.

    Anyway, I hope the images I attached are helpful to the OP.

    Take care,
    Dominic

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  • PrettybirdPrettybird Posts: 269
    edited 2009-05-19 08:17
    ··· Parallax and other places also make blank carrier boards that can be used for programing the Basic Stamp with no assembly needed. You can always get creative and get a quick load Eprom burner socket and hand wire too. Much safer if you plan to program alot of stamps. There are always more then one way to skin a cat. lol
  • rixterrixter Posts: 95
    edited 2009-05-19 11:38
    Morris,

    If you need to trim things down even more you could potentially eliminate some of the components that may not be required. For example, in my projects I program the BASIC Stamp on a carrier board then remove it and plug it into the project. This way I don't need the programming connection. The downside of this is that you'd have to keep removing it to re-program it. Or you could have the programming "connector" external to your project so you just plug it in when necessary. This would eliminate the 9 pin plug, wiring and capacitors from being physically on the project. If you can guarantee a constant 4.5-6 volt (4 AA NiMH batteries) external input to the BS2, you can eliminate the voltage regulator setup and feed right to the same pins in Servello's diagram. I also have the batteries external to the project in a battery box to reduce the physical size of the project box.



    Rick

    Post Edited (rixter) : 5/19/2009 11:55:06 AM GMT
  • ZootZoot Posts: 2,227
    edited 2009-05-19 12:44
    said...
    If you can guarantee a constant 4.5-6 volt (4 AA NiMH batteries) external input to the BS2

    Just remember that the on-board regulator for the Stamp is not that powerful -- if your project as a whole will need a decent amount of 5v current (for lots of LEDs, peripherals, servos, etc), then an external regulator will be necessary.

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  • WBA ConsultingWBA Consulting Posts: 2,934
    edited 2009-05-19 16:06
    Servello: The layout on your proto board does not match the schematic. One of your caps connects ATN to VSS which is correct. However, the other cap that should be in line between DTR from the PC and ATN on the BS2 is actually doing nothing at all. The way it sits in your breadboard is across holes that are tied together by the breadboard itself.

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  • servelloservello Posts: 113
    edited 2009-05-19 16:40
    Hello Andrew,

    I did think that was odd myself when I did it. I thought maybe the fourth wire (in my photo) would need to go to an empty slot on the breadboard and have the capacitor (one lead only) attach to the same row with the second lead going to a different empty slot - with a connecting wire from the second lead to the fourth BS2 pin.

    But as this worked I wasn't sure if it was actually wrong.

    Could anyone else pop in with a comment on this?

    - Dominic

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  • rixterrixter Posts: 95
    edited 2009-05-19 21:03
    I've seen this diagram (attached image... credit to Robot Builder's Bonanza book), for accomplishing the connection to the BS2 programming port. But this was implemented external to the breadboard and only plugged in when programming was required.

    Rick
    1014 x 760 - 353K
  • servelloservello Posts: 113
    edited 2009-05-19 23:29
    Hey Rick,

    That is the exact diagram I used. So for the OP's sake, can anyone confirm that my connections are correct? Or is my explanation (two posts above this) correct in it's assumption?

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  • WBA ConsultingWBA Consulting Posts: 2,934
    edited 2009-05-19 23:46
    Servello: Yes, that's the right idea for correcting your circuit. The cap inline on the DTR line is to block the DC voltage normally present on the DTR from damaging the stamp. It will allow the pulses to pass so that the Stamp can be reset after programming. In other words, it works the way you have it in your circuit, but since a serial port is capable of presenting anywhere from 5-15 volts, it could damamge the stamp. If you are using a USB-Serial adapter, you are probably safe, but you should follow the recommended circuit.

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    WBA Consulting
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  • rixterrixter Posts: 95
    edited 2009-05-20 00:36
    I think what Andrew is saying is that in your photo, the CAP going to pin 3 isn't really inline because current is permitted on all holes in that row on the breadboard.

    You'd have to either do this off the breadboard in the wire or away from the rows containing the BS2. I think the attached would do it. Andrew can confirm if this is what he was talking about.

    Rick
    1014 x 760 - 275K
  • servelloservello Posts: 113
    edited 2009-05-20 02:05
    Thanks to you both, Andrew and Rick.

    I appreciate the confirmation and the great photo. Excellent, excellent help!

    -Dominic

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  • WBA ConsultingWBA Consulting Posts: 2,934
    edited 2009-05-20 15:47
    rixter: exactly what I was trying to say. I don't have access to my breadboards currently. A picture is worth a thousand words..............

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    Andrew Williams
    WBA Consulting
    IT / Web / PCB / Audio
  • servelloservello Posts: 113
    edited 2009-05-20 17:34
    WBA Consulting said...
    ... A picture is worth a thousand words..............

    Yes! Exactly!

    I'd like to hear from the OP to see if all this has answered his question.

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