IR transciever home made

Prettybird

··· Getting ready to fire up my first boe bot and realised the IR setup in the book wouldn't fly on my robot. Oh well back to basement engineering. I used 1/4 of a radio shack 2.25" x 2.25" proto board and a few header pins. I made the cables from cables salvaged from old computer main frames. I went all out and soldered and labled pind to the boe bot end making easy to plug directly into the boe I/O header saving breadboard space. I always perfered plug and play. It is good to always have a few long break away headers laying around. Hope this will be usefull to someone. Intermediate soldering skills, an IC type soldering iron, and IC type solder may be usefull. Attached are some pics to help.

The more you learn, the more you find you don't know. It is neverending. Confucous 550BC

morris4019

It's always great to free up some room. I went with the same idea, just finished about a week ago. Mine is almost the exact same as yours except I added pots to adjust resistance on IR emitters, and a red LED for each side for detection indication. OR once it is fine tuned for my debug_mode that stops motor function and displays with LED's whats going on.

Great work!

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······ I'll try everything once [noparse]:)[/noparse]

Prettybird

Thanks. Am good with electronics old school but not yet started the programming part yet. Decided to go with the ping and just ordered one today along with a BS2px stamp on sale. Seems everything is using ping. I am trying to design for outdoors with many functions. I will probally go with higher torque servos with metal gears. I found a hobby shop online that will modify to continous without voiding the warrenty. Plan to carry alot of R/C Nicads with a min. of 6 kg/cm (84oz/in). You do have some good ideas. I was thinking of pots but they can always be added later. LEDs no matter what kind usually uses a 220ohm max for full power on 5 volts. I guess Parallax has a reasion for the 1 K. I love this site for their help and just try to give a little back. Who said you can't teach an old bird new tricks. lol Good luck and keep us imformed.

The more you learn the more you find you don't know. It is neverending.

GWJax

Ouch I see one of your 220 ohm resistor really close to your holding strap but I assume you have it so it will not touch the ground.. BTW great work on your soldering job and nice pictures as well. Keep up the good work and also you'll find the Ping))) will work better than the Sharp IR Long range sensor in all conditions. Happy Programming..

Jax

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If a robot has a screw then it must be romoved and hacked into..

Prettybird

I was a pro electrician / bench technician before the massive lay offs. Hardware is second nature to me. Programming is new to me. PLC is much easier for sure. lol Nice to know lower voltages don't jump. An acto knife is very usefull for tight places (experience) There is a nylon spacer under the board you don't see. Next I will be making a LM 386 sound booster for my boe. Designing it for the outdoors and plan to be able to hear alarms when going through different avoidance routines. Thanks for the complement.