PS/2 Propeller Connection!!
Vaati
Posts: 712
I need a schematic or something so I can use a PS/2 port with a splitter cable and ancient mouse + keyboard to output stuff on a TV... Does anyone have a simple diagram that they can post?
Thanks·
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Quit buying all those fixed voltage regulators, and·get an Adjustable Power Supply·for your projects!· Includes an LED testing terminal!
Thanks·
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Quit buying all those fixed voltage regulators, and·get an Adjustable Power Supply·for your projects!· Includes an LED testing terminal!
Comments
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Quit buying all those fixed voltage regulators, and·get an Adjustable Power Supply·for your projects!· Includes an LED testing terminal!
Are you trying to run this on a Boss board? If so, I would encourage you to also get a Propeller Demo Board. Not to knock Nick's products, but may of the objects in the OBEX
are specifically geared toward the Demo Board. Everything made a lot more sense when I got the demo·Board and started to play. Much of it was instant gratification, which is what I think you are looking for.
If you play with the OBEX objects on the demo board,and you have questions on those objects,·you will··undoubtedly get a better and faster response to your questions.
Keep on plugging, that's what I'm doing!
Jim
The Demo Board schematic shows how the keyboard and the mouse connectors are connected to the Propeller. You can also look at the Protoboard (with Accessory Kit) schematic for the same thing since the Accessory Kit stuff (keyboard, mouse, and VGA connector) is hooked up the same as on the Demo Board.
You sound as if you have a prop on a boss board... If so, how did you connect your ps/2 port...?
One final thing; how do you hook up the provided resistors to the prop protoboard usb? Is there a pdf I can print out...?
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Quit buying all those fixed voltage regulators, and·get an Adjustable Power Supply·for your projects!· Includes an LED testing terminal!
Regards,
John
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
'Necessity is the mother of invention'
Those who can, do.Those who can’t, teach.
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Quit buying all those fixed voltage regulators, and·get an Adjustable Power Supply·for your projects!· Includes an LED testing terminal!
connection - www.parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/prop/Hydra-Ch6All-v1.0.pdf
Regards,
John
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
'Necessity is the mother of invention'
Those who can, do.Those who can’t, teach.
Some of those "splitter" cables were for specific manurfacturers. They used one or two of the spare two pins, on the 6 pin socket, to allow Mouse and Keyboard to just use one hole in the case. Keep them separate and give yourself one less complication.
Your path with the prop has not been an easy one, so far by the look of it, so go for some certainties and gain experience and confidence. ( Now I sound like some anchient sage!!)
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Quit buying all those fixed voltage regulators, and·get an Adjustable Power Supply·for your projects!· Includes an LED testing terminal!
Refering to the Demo board cct diagram( I have Rev d/e/f 11-29-06 here) they show the socket from the outside/front ie looking at 6 holes with the oblong cutout towards the top.
Clockwise- at 1 o'clock is pin5, next at 3 o'clock is pin3, next at 5 o'clock is pin 1, then at 7 o'clock is pin2, then at 9 o'clock is pin4 and finally at 11 o'clock is pin6.
Pins 2 and 6 do not get used
pin5 is the clock signal
pin3 is 0 Volts
pin 1 is the data signal
pin4 is +5 Volts (officially but +3.3V might be ok)
If you have PCB mounting sockets then the layout is fairly obvious for them to get the wires out easily ie 6 and 5 tend to be the ones at the back etc
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Quit buying all those fixed voltage regulators, and·get an Adjustable Power Supply·for your projects!· Includes an LED testing terminal!
This lets you still connect a keyboard, even if you don't have a splitter cable handy. You need a second set of 4 resistors as per the original PS2 port.
The splitter cable themselves don't have a standard for which set is mouse and which is keyboard. Often they have the wrong icon stamped into the plastic of the plug, but its simple enough to switch and reboot if they don't work
tubular
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Quit buying all those fixed voltage regulators, and·get an Adjustable Power Supply·for your projects!· Includes an LED testing terminal!
Looking at some splitter cable details (from one of the "PINOUTS" sites) I see that one uses just one of the spare pins for non-standard mouse useage, and one was just a way of puting two keyboards on one particular pc. So I vote that you dont touch that game until everything else is perfectly OK
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Quit buying all those fixed voltage regulators, and·get an Adjustable Power Supply·for your projects!· Includes an LED testing terminal!
I do not know of the pcb you are referring to, but if the same prop pins are connected to both the PS2 and the NES connectors then you will only be able to use either/or. If you post the schematic, then there are a number here who can answer your questions easily.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Links to other interesting threads:
· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp, SixBladeProp, website (Multiple propeller pcbs)
· Single Board Computer:·3 Propeller ICs·and a·TriBladeProp board (ZiCog Z80 Emulator)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index)
· Emulators: Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100 (Index)
· Search the Propeller forums (via Google)
My cruising website is: ·www.bluemagic.biz·· MultiBladeProp is: www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm
So, it will work if I use 3.3 volts instead of 5? That would be WAY easier with the board I'm using, since there is only one row with 5v, and 3.3 is all over the place! Just wanted to make sure it would still function properly...
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Quit buying all those fixed voltage regulators, and·get an Adjustable Power Supply·for your projects!· Includes an LED testing terminal!
I have had some/most keyboards and few mice work on 3.3v only, others have reported much better results. This is probably due to me running less than cutting edge kit a lot of more of the modern stuff is laptop freindly, I build all my PCBs and so work around as many porblems as possible that way
I, again, would say that try one thing then another before trying both variables together, there are many things out there to "confuse the stupid". Smaller steps, better path (even take notes to be truely "professional")