5v 1.5A regulator(Mouser # 511-LD29150DT50R)
hmlittle59
Posts: 404
Hello all,
I was looking at the spec. sheet for STMicroelectronics Part LD29150DT50R and the Application circuit they show has a 0.33 uf on Input and a 10uf on Output. The sheet does not say if its ( electrolytic / ceramic / or Tantalum) and the 10 uf has a polarity indicator. How is one suppose to know what type of parts to order and footprint size(CC1310). I want SMT parts for my design. I know that Wall Warts sometimes are not always the same voltage output even though they may say so.
1) How do I know if it ceramic/tantalum?
2) What determines the foot print size of the CAP?
3) I have 4.7 uf Tantalum on hand will they work in place of the 10 uf for now?
I've seen lots of discussion on the forum about Voltage Regulators but I can't find these answers. Every vendor seems to have different requirements based on their design.
thank to all
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I HAVE LEARN SO MUCH...BUT STILL KNOW SO LITTLE!!!
hmlittle59
I was looking at the spec. sheet for STMicroelectronics Part LD29150DT50R and the Application circuit they show has a 0.33 uf on Input and a 10uf on Output. The sheet does not say if its ( electrolytic / ceramic / or Tantalum) and the 10 uf has a polarity indicator. How is one suppose to know what type of parts to order and footprint size(CC1310). I want SMT parts for my design. I know that Wall Warts sometimes are not always the same voltage output even though they may say so.
1) How do I know if it ceramic/tantalum?
2) What determines the foot print size of the CAP?
3) I have 4.7 uf Tantalum on hand will they work in place of the 10 uf for now?
I've seen lots of discussion on the forum about Voltage Regulators but I can't find these answers. Every vendor seems to have different requirements based on their design.
thank to all
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
I HAVE LEARN SO MUCH...BUT STILL KNOW SO LITTLE!!!
hmlittle59
Comments
Leon
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Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
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Chris Savage
Parallax Engineering
new parts to be ordered
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I HAVE LEARN SO MUCH...BUT STILL KNOW SO LITTLE!!!
hmlittle59
(1)· Cost more;
(2)· Are more reliable;
(3)· Have less leakage;
(4)· Are less tolerant of continuous AC flowing through;
(5)· Have a little greater equivalent series resistance; and
(6)· Can stand higher temperatures.
For a filter on a power supply, I'd use an aluminum electrolytic just about always if buying new.
Electrolytic capacitors have very wide tolerances.· The tolerance ranges for 10 and 4.7 uf electrolytics are not much different; about 90% of either value will fall in the tolerance range of the other value.· Your 4.7 should work just fine, and if the cost of replacing it isn't a problem, I'd use it unhesitatingly.· If buying new ones for this app, I'd order aluminum, but your tantalums are already on hand.· Use'em.
And, to be kind to an old man, change that I HAVE LEARN SO MUCH to I HAVE LEARNED SO MUCH.· Please?
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· -- Carl, nn5i@arrl.net
Post Edited (Carl Hayes) : 4/2/2009 1:17:03 AM GMT
Slightly OT, but what about Ceramic vs. electrolytic for DC-to-AC / Audio out?
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But yes, most ceramic or mica or mylar or polystyrene capacitors, for example, will work better in liquid nitrogen than an aluminum or tantalum electrolytic (or paper) capacitor will.
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· -- Carl, nn5i@arrl.net
The typical temperature range for aluminum electrolytic capacitors is –40 °C to 85 °C or 105 °C. Capacitance varies about +5% –40% over the range with the capacitance loss all at cold temperatures.
Ceramic capacitors are available in three classes according to dielectric constant and temperature performance. Class 1 (NPO, COG) is suitable for low capacitance, tight tolerance applications in the range of 1 pF to a few mF. Class 2 (X7R) has 20 to 70 times as much capacitance per case size, but capacitance typically varies about ± 10% over its –55 to 125 °C temperature range. The maximum change is +15 % to –25%.
So yeah, probably not a concern
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