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Buliding up my workshop — Parallax Forums

Buliding up my workshop

RICoderRICoder Posts: 91
edited 2009-01-18 04:44 in General Discussion
USUAL DISCLAIMER: I am very new to circuitry but a professional programmer.

I'm extending my current workshop to include an area for electronics work (right now it is purely woodworking), and whilst I build up my tool base, I'm trying to figure out what sort of tools I should get.

Normal hardware I have (all sorts of screwdrivers and the like), but I'm thinking more in terms of osciliscopes and multimeter's. From experience, I know I am going to be working on a project someday soon, and find myself needing some piece of equipment to debug my project and not have it (and it is going to be 2am so I can't just run out and get it). I'm trying to avoid that.

What would you guys suggest for good tools? Links and brand names and product #s would be helpful, so I don't get the wrong stuff.

Thanks.

Comments

  • SRLMSRLM Posts: 5,045
    edited 2009-01-08 03:54
    My travels into the world of power supplies: Link.

    For soldering irons, I like the Weller's digital model (Link here to a picture). It works well, and it's pretty comfortable. Note: the one listed is 50W. I'm not sure what the rating is on the one that I use, just that it has really fast heatup time.

    A bench top multimeter is nice to have.

    Don't forget to add a power strip to your workbench, along with a couple of wall warts that you can plug quickly into boards.

    I like the parallax oscilloscope, but I never do any high frequency projects so I've never looked at a faster one.

    I suppose that you have a drill press. Always handy.

    Finally, a desoldering iron is very handy (I find it's almost essential), and a regular plastic desoldering tool is handy too.
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2009-01-08 04:27
    To SRLM's list I would add parts drawers (!) and a label gun. Also a set of "Chip Safes" is really nice to have. For what you get, they're obscenely expensive, but I could not live without the five that I bought many years ago. Once you're over the sticker shock you will not regret it!

    Also, if you're sharing space with an active woodshop, you will definitely want to isolate your electronics area from sawdust. Otherwise, you'll constantly be shop-vaccing a fine, cellulosic patina from your projects and work area.

    -Phil
  • SRLMSRLM Posts: 5,045
    edited 2009-01-08 05:18
    Don't forget lots of light. My old workspace had a single spotlight behind my shoulder and a room light next door. Terrible! Shadows all over, so I had to lean a certain way and work in one spot only. I've learned my lesson: my newer workspace has 3 bright lights (2 fill and a spot) that work very well.

    A stand or vice is handy for soldering with. I also use my mini-anvil to hold boards in place.

    A solder smoke fan/filter is pretty nice to have. I'm not sure that the lead free stuff will hurt you, but it doesn't smell too good.

    A book shelf for the electronics books and binders of datasheets.

    @Phil

    Do those chip safes hold things like a)datalogger, b)RFID reader, c) RF modules? What I'm getting at is, does it hold the flat electronics that aren't necessarily a simple package like the DIP propeller?
  • KB3JJGKB3JJG Posts: 95
    edited 2009-01-08 05:40
    A computer old desktop/laptop reformatted and fresh, with serial port or an adaptor!

    Second vote for a drill press, If you have one nearby you can get them cheap at Harbor Freight, if not they have flat rate shipping, you can order one shipped for under $100 You can't run a production line with Harbor Freight stuff, but my garage is full of cheap harbor tools

    Plenty of 4-40 hardware, nuts bolts, and standoffs.

    A "third hand" ie: a magnifier with clamps

    Metal L Brackets, Strait brackets, and metal stock

    Hobby size wood stock, I know you said you had a wood shop, but hobby sizes are great for fabricating quick and dirty parts if you don't want to play with metal. 1/8 plywood and some sticks of hardwood are great. Get it at your local hobby shop.

    plenty of 5 minute epoxy..my favorite, acid brushes and stolen plastic condiment cups from a fast food joint make for easy mixing and cleanup!

    A rolling stool

    Frig for beer

    plenty of resistors/caps/jumpers/breadboard

    batteries and holders

    clipboard and graph paper


    I know some of the above are not "tools" but they go good in any electronics shop












    Post Edited (KB3JJG) : 1/8/2009 5:51:25 AM GMT
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2009-01-08 06:34
    SRLM,

    The Chip Safes work best with DIPs. Some SIPs, like TO220s and 15-pin power packs, also work. The best way I've found to store active SMD devices is is their original DigiKey static bags, organized by category into Ziploc bags. Passive devices can be stored in small, snap-lid bead containers.

    -Phil
  • RICoderRICoder Posts: 91
    edited 2009-01-08 08:10
    Ok.

    A) Parallax forums is my new favorite home. You guys nailed exactly what I was asking.

    B) Awesome suggestions, I shall go on a shopping spree when my wife isn't looking. Good points on the lighting and power, I'll just extend what I've got already to the new bench.

    C) Any thoughts on other materials for quick fab? I don't have, nor really want, the tools for doing metal fab, so that is out. Wood + electronics is not my favorite combo. I have some UHMW (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra_high_molecular_weight_polyethylene) around from some jigs I made, and it seems to me this would be ideal (if slightly expensive) as it machines like wood.
  • SRLMSRLM Posts: 5,045
    edited 2009-01-08 08:25
    I personally really like 1/2" aluminum angle iron. I know you said no metal, but hear me out. This stuff is perfect for building lightweight, strong and easily changeable frames. All you need really is a hacksaw, a drill press, and a file. It's my favorite material for building stuff, especially since you can get an 8 foot piece for about $5.

    As for plastics, I like styrene. It's found most commonly in hobby shops for model railroading, and it's a pretty easy to work. I comes in various shapes and sizes of bar stock, and sheets are available too. If you get it, be sure to get a nice x-acto knife set and a large, self-healing cutting mat along with a metal straight edge. Another plastic I've heard about but haven't had a chance to try yet is called ShapeLock.

    In addition to lots of 4-40 hardware, some 6-32 is useful too, along with long, threaded rods that you can cut to size.
  • LeonLeon Posts: 7,620
    edited 2009-01-08 14:25
    Another use for Al angle is making custom heat sinks. It's easy to mount on a PCB.

    A small lathe like the Taig is very useful. I've used mine for precision drilling with the milling attachment.

    Making your own PCBs is quite easy, I do it all the time.

    Leon

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
    Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
  • LilDiLilDi Posts: 229
    edited 2009-01-08 17:32
    My opinion is that while USB oscilloscopes are great for low frequency stuff and are quite cheap, you are eventually going to be working with high frequency stuff. I personally think that a cheap ($300.00) 20 mhz dual trace analog oscilloscope is a better choice in the long run. Now I'm sure that while this comment is going to generate some disagreement, this is my personal preference. Maybe thats because the specs on most USB o-scopes can be very misleading and I'm affraid of being disappointed when I unpack and use it.
  • Mike2545Mike2545 Posts: 433
    edited 2009-01-09 03:00
    As for tools don't forget: heat gun for heat shrink tubing, a proto board with built in 5volt power supply, logic probe, small pliers,

    wire cutters, and a mechanical wire stripper. About 12 test leads (jumper wires with alligator clips). Its a good idea to have an anti-

    static mat or wrist strap to wear when working with sensitive devices. Resistive and capacitive substitution boxes are quite handy. If

    you get an oscilloscope get an isolation transformer to use with any 120 AC work, and parts drawers, something to sort and

    organize all of the hundreds and thousands of small parts you will eventually just have to get, why buy one when you can get 2 at

    twice the cost! I also have a label maker to mark all of those drawers otherwise you will spend a lot of time opening each one

    looking for the item you are searching for.
  • Invent-O-DocInvent-O-Doc Posts: 768
    edited 2009-01-12 01:24
    Many other have offered very good suggestions here.

    Some things I find very helpful:

    20MHz analog oscilloscope (tektronics from ebay) (or PC scope)
    Selection of good angled pliers and good cutters
    Decent, yet economical soldering iron ($50)
    Drill press & a dremel tool
    Parallax professional development boards (have original and Propeller version)
    Several cheap low voltage power supplies (PS-28 from MPJA.COM 3-12 volts (probably an LM317 circuit you could make) )
    a PANAVISE that holds a circuit board
    "helping hands' device
    Lots of cabinets with multiple plastic drawers

    Lots of passive components (I bought some grab bags (switches, displays, LEDs) & componentF kits (resistors/caps/Linear ICs etc from Jameco that include a cabinet)
    Make sure you have a good selection of voltage regulators (3.3,variable,5,12v), lots of LEDs, diodes, transistors etc so you don't need to go shopping for every schematic you come across.

    I second the fridge w/beer!

    3 ring binders with printouts of data sheets, references and Parallax educational books (can be downloaded)

    Finally,

    A cheap computer. Consider a two monitor set up so you can display your programming environment one one screen and a PDF of a book or schematic on the other. (My second monitor also doubles as a propeller display)

    Best of luck!

    (Im going to follow SRLMs advice on buying Al angle iron, this was a very constructive thread!)

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Thomas Talbot, MD
    Gunpowder, MD, USA
  • W9GFOW9GFO Posts: 4,010
    edited 2009-01-12 08:18
    A couple things I find really useful:

    Small wall mounted wet/dry vac with extra long hose.

    Those magnifying glasses that you wear on your head and make you look uber geeky.

    Hot glue gun

    Digital calipers

    4 axis CNC milling machine. www.sherline.com - the fourth axis is a rotary table.

    An alternative to plastic for light duty construction is Depron. Sold at hobby shops, very easy to work with, very light and fairly stiff - it is like foam board without the paper.
  • steve_bsteve_b Posts: 1,563
    edited 2009-01-13 20:29
    At work I'm big on prototyping with wire wrap. That said, you could also go with the solderable proto boards (not my fave).
    But all in all...get a collection of DIP sockets. I refuse to proto (even the final version) anything without chip carriers....it just seems to be too much of a PITA to unsolder a chip and solder a new one it! IF it isn't a vibration mechanism....don't solder it!

    RE: PC scope, you may find that you want a 2nd machine to run the scope software while the other machine is talking to your stamp/SX/Propellor.
    Some jumper wires are good...alligator clips, and some old solid core phone wire to use for interconnect wires.
    A large breadboard! I swear when I run out of room on my BOE's breadboard.
    Lots of room....I like to spread out!
    Be organized...the bins will help! (see my wall of trays!)
    Lots of light!
    A comfortable chair!
    Internet access! Oops, lost that datasheet....google here I come!
    something to clip schematics up on....I like working from paper, so clip up my schematic so I can work from it. Use a solid back (not just a free floating piece of paper) so you can cross off each connection you make on the breadboard!

    Heat gun and heat shrink!
    Solder sucker/pump and good sponge's (use distilled water).

    Cheers!

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    <FONT>Steve



    What's the best thing to do in a lightning storm? "take a one iron out the bag and hold it straight up above your head, even God cant hit a one iron!"
    Lee Travino after the second time being hit by lightning!
    1600 x 1200 - 446K
  • SRLMSRLM Posts: 5,045
    edited 2009-01-14 00:07
    This is turning into the wish list for a perfect workshop of every electronics geek... Anyway, I'll throw in a couple of things:

    The PDB and PPDB are wonders! So much room to experiment, so much room to play! I rarely use my BOE or Propeller Demo Board anymore for quick prototyping since I got the larger boards.

    Some sort of security would be good, if you're going to have $1000's worth of electronics in there. Just look at what happened to the Oregon University robot: stolen right out from under their noses!
  • Mike2545Mike2545 Posts: 433
    edited 2009-01-14 00:36
    Does any one have pictures they want to share of their workshop/electronics area?
  • RICoderRICoder Posts: 91
    edited 2009-01-14 01:18
    If I haven't said it before, I'll say it again, I love this forum. You guys are great.

    I just got a new laptop (Dell XPS M1730 pimptacular). I'll most likely use that for software development (not chip stuff). I have more computers than I know what to do with, and already have one in my show for doing CAD work, so I'll probably just rebuild an older one for the actual chip programming and/or console whilst using the CAD one for a scope (when/if I get one).

    Having just finished my first BoE-Bot, modifying it, and writing some serial comms with my PC, I already see the need for certain things.

    Next on my list is a good multimeter, and THAT is my question for you boys (and girls?). Say $100-$200ish, digital, and can preferably connect to a PC (and meets your standards for quality).
  • SRLMSRLM Posts: 5,045
    edited 2009-01-14 02:35
    My $30 Extech multimeter works fine for me. I'd get a small digital handheld meter before you get a bench meter. That way, you can take it wherever you need it.
  • $WMc%$WMc% Posts: 1,884
    edited 2009-01-14 03:17
    RICoder

    The extra computers are a Big plus to Your work shop.As I'm sure You now that CAD and the like software "GCode" use so many interrupts its hard to run anything else on these older computers and a lot of the free ware wont run on XP or Vista and the need for a Parallel port and a DB9 jack makes these older computers very useful.

    In My opinion Weller makes the best irons.

    The Parallax Oscope will run fine on that new laptop, I have a Dell with a Dual core Duo Intel and the Parallax Oscope v5.1.1 runs just as good if not better than some Bench top Oscopes I've used

    Multimeter;I'd get a Fluke 8060 or 87series.Look closely at the 87's they offer different accessory's(87I,87II,87III,87IV,87V) They aren't cheap But You get what You pay for. This will pay off in the end.

    One last thing I consider, is a good power supply. You could buy one or modify a large computer surplus power supply as I have done.

    _____Welcome to the hobby___________$WMc%_________

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    The Truth is out there·········································· E=$WMc%2

    Post Edited ($WMc%) : 1/16/2009 2:11:47 AM GMT
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    edited 2009-01-14 05:27
    For breadboarding projects I mount my boards, power supplies, interfaces etc on a cutting board I buy at the local dollar store. They are rigid enough to make a good base, easy to drill, and keep things from shorting on bench tools and other loose bits. The hand hold cutout also makes it easy to store. A board about the size of a sheet of paper is good for most projects and costs $1.00. I pick up 10 at a time when I go shopping. I suppose it could also be cut up to make a project box but I have never done so.
  • CumQuaTCumQuaT Posts: 156
    edited 2009-01-15 02:38
    In my work area I definitely have the following:

    - a PC there for those last minute coding changes and tests
    - a PDB for my Basic Stamps plus a Pic Programmer
    - a HEAP of jumper wire and breadboards
    - my good ol' bits drawers (caps, pots, transistors, resistors, etc) if you put them in the drawers, you'll save your sanity
    - a few sheets of heat mouldable plastic (my favorite for working with in robotics)
    - Good strong Epoxy (as mentioned earlier, 5 minute epoxy is awesome)
    - A good superglue
    - a nibbler (tool used to cut plastic and metal)
    - a wire stripper
    - good set of screwdrivers (i have around 60 different types and sizes, just coz you never know)
    - good set of pliers (different types are good to have)
    - various tweezers (for those little annoying bits)
    - diagonal cutters
    - sturdy pair of scissors
    - a decent quality multitool (I have used a Gerber Suspension now for years and it serves me well)
    - I prefer a battery powered soldering iron since I hate the cable dragging at me. Gives me more freedom
    - Nice multimeter with a desk stand
    - Soldering iron tip cleaner
    - desoldering pump
    - hot glue gun
    - variable power supply
    - lots of power points (you'll always run out, no matter how many you have, so best to get as many as possible) but make sure it has a good surge protector. I use a battery backup UPS for mine.
    - LOTS of light. I agree with SRLM. It really is a must.
    - make sure you have a good set of safety glasses, and for worst case scenarios I like to have a low density gas mask lying around
    - I keep a little sports drink bottle filled with water near me, too. Just in case of emergencies wink.gif
    - a power drill with lots of bits
    - a really comfy, adjustable chair with nice lumbar support
    - good ventilation
    - a lava lamp, plasma ball or lightning disk. sounds silly, I know, but after staring at small circuits all day, it's nice to have something interesting and moving to look at.

    So there's my two cents. I've probably forgotten some things, but I'm at work at the moment and not at my workbench!!!
  • $WMc%$WMc% Posts: 1,884
    edited 2009-01-16 02:52
    RICoder

    Keep this on the D.L. But I almost forgot the most important part of the workshop/workroom. It involves a RFID tag and reader that only You have and ware as a neckless under your shirt. This prevents the stereo from BLARING some killer hair band acid rock music when the door is opened from anyone but Your self to the workshop or workroom. This will detour even the most curios of wifes/girl friends from going into Your work space. And You wont have to here that "You need to clean up that darn MESS.", This is usually followed with "OR ELSE I WILL", This means She'll throw every thing out and want to add flowers and pictures of the family that She didn't like But You should to Your work bench.

    It's this strategy that makes for a robust work area!

    _______________$WMc%_______________

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    The Truth is out there·········································· E=$WMc%2
  • RICoderRICoder Posts: 91
    edited 2009-01-16 04:02
    WM, I lol'd. I don't think you understand what my personal "Man Town" is like. It is the most woman-repulsing setup I could come up with, and my wife has since taken to using 2-way radios to communicate with me when I am down there. Between the bow-hunting gear, heavy bag, workout equipment, wood-working power tools, electrical stuff, SCUBA gear, camping gear and obnoxious music...its just scary. But thanks for the tip, I may very well RFID-enable it.

    I built the new workbench (8x3 MDF surface) and got some cabinets, but need to afix a perforated hardboard back to it to hang tools from still. When its all done, I'll post pictures. Luckily my birthday is next week and people keep asking me what I want, so I just pointed them to a wishlist which has a lot of the stuff discussed here on it.
  • steve_bsteve_b Posts: 1,563
    edited 2009-01-16 13:34
    I'd agree on the Fluke for DMM's. They're good and we have a number of them at work.
    I wouldn't worry about having one to connect to your PC....if you have a USB O-scope, it'll work just the same (just at lower voltages).

    However, I would say that an analog meter has it's benefits! While a DMM is busy trying to average/display/rerange it's reading an analog meter will have shown the "blip" and settled again.
    I'll use an analog meter to throw on a serial line to see that things are pulsing (watch your polarity though).

    RICoder said...
    Next on my list is a good multimeter, and THAT is my question for you boys (and girls?). Say $100-$200ish, digital, and can preferably connect to a PC (and meets your standards for quality).

    There is an old thread on the site with pictures of other people's workshops....I don't like using the search function, so will have to rely on someone else to reference it!


    Cheers

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    <FONT>Steve



    What's the best thing to do in a lightning storm? "take a one iron out the bag and hold it straight up above your head, even God cant hit a one iron!"
    Lee Travino after the second time being hit by lightning!
  • $WMc%$WMc% Posts: 1,884
    edited 2009-01-17 06:45
    RICoder

    " 10-4 "


    __Happy Birthday______________$WMc%___

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    The Truth is out there·········································· E=$WMc%2
  • SRLMSRLM Posts: 5,045
    edited 2009-01-17 07:15
    http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=531927
    http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=531809

    I'm not quite sure why electrical engineers like to have messy desks... I did that for several years, and recently converted to cleaning every night and getting lots of organization. What a relief! Anyway...
  • Bob Lawrence (VE1RLL)Bob Lawrence (VE1RLL) Posts: 1,720
    edited 2009-01-18 02:42
    I see that your using Jameco www.jameco.com for parts. I've been using them for a lot of years. (around 27 to 30 years) Their great!! I've never had a problem with them.

    You have been given plenty of good ideas and hopefully I don't repeat anything.

    You could always get a few additional ideas from this book :
    www.amazon.com/Build-Electronics-Workshop-Technician-Library/dp/0071447245

    A few additional ideas (I think) would be:

    - long power receptacles strips to run the length of your work bench.
    - I love having a stereo microscope for soldering SMD devices and to check for bad solder joints generally, among other things.
    - Florescent or LED Magnifying light on a swivel bracket.
    - 7 LED (or more) flashlight . Most likely it will work when you need it.
    - Capacitor conversion chart.(try a Google search)
    - Start a Tech library on your computer and organize it well. As you learn add tech PDF files to your library for future reference. Also add schematics, etc.
    - A 8GB or more flash card to back up your library
    - Make a list of common components and stock them when you can. I.e common capacitor values, resistors, LED's, general purpose transistors(2n2222, 2n3055 , 2N3904 3+5 volt regulators etc...)
    - Make a list of online electronic suppliers such as www.goldmine-elec.com/

    Have fun!

    Bob

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Aka: CosmicBob
  • Mike2545Mike2545 Posts: 433
    edited 2009-01-18 03:07
    I think there are a lot of great ideas posted here and I have picked up a few tips along the way.
    The dual monitor thing is great, I just bought a video card and 2nd monitor. I don't know how I lived without it!

    The one thing I haven't seen, and excuse me if its been overlooked, -music- in which ever form you like.

    Mike 2545
  • SRLMSRLM Posts: 5,045
    edited 2009-01-18 04:01
    Mike said...
    The one thing I haven't seen, and excuse me if its been overlooked, -music- in which ever form you like.

    Well, thats a given! How is it possible to engineer something without music? [noparse]:)[/noparse]
  • kelvin jameskelvin james Posts: 531
    edited 2009-01-18 04:44
    Get a xm / sirius sat radio, a south facing window is good for the antenna reception. Costs a few bucks per year, but well worth it, i don't listen to anything else now. Get the portable version, you can use it anywhere.

    **
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