This is a CLARE (Part# LBA110) (8 Pin Dip) (Dual Pole OptoMOS Relay) How do yo

sam_sam_sam

Could·any one·post a drawing of how you hook up these relays on the output side of these relay
I know how to hook up the input side of it

In the data sheets it dose not show a test hook up

I know it says to limit the output current 120 milliamp is this all I have to worry about when using this chip

Here is the Link to this relay

http://clareweb2.clare.com/home/pdfs.nsf/0/A3F113824FF911ED85256A2C00672E79/$file/LBA110_R07.pdf

Thank You for any help that you can give with this

I am going to order four of them to play with

I want to hook one of these too a Basic Stamp to control something

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··Thanks for any··that you may have and all of your time finding them

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Sam

Post Edited (sam_sam_sam) : 12/27/2008 3:30:53 PM GMT

sylvie369

The output side is essentially just a wire that runs through the relay.

The "normally closed" ones are a complete unbroken wire until you send a control signal to open it.
The "normally open" ones are a wire with a break in it at that point until you send a control signal to close it (which completes the circuit).

You simply put your wire into one of those pins (say, pin 5) and run another one out the corresponding pin (pin 6, if you're going in pin 5), and then use the control signal from your processor to control whether it's an open circuit or a closed one. You're simply wiring a pair of pins in series with your circuit. If you want a circuit that's "on" until you say otherwise, run it in through pin 7 and out through pin 8. If you want a circuit that's "off" until you say otherwise, run it in through pin 5 and out through pin 6.

As you said, you'll need to pay attention to the amount of current flowing through the circuit you're controlling. I'd start off using it to control an LED, since that's certainly safe, and you'll get a clear indication of whether or not you're doing it correctly. If you're planning to control something that has moving parts (e.g., motors), you may need to do more than just stay within current limits - there are issues with voltage spikes and reverse voltages that can destroy things. I think that this relay is safe from those because it's opto-isolated, but you probably want to hear from an expert before you hook it up to a motor or solenoid.

sam_sam_sam

sylvie369

Thank You for your reply and input on this matter this will help a lot


You simply put your wire into one of those pins (say, pin 5) and run another one out the corresponding pin (pin 6, if you're going in pin 5), and then use the control signal from your processor to control whether it's an open circuit or a closed one. You're simply wiring a pair of pins in series with your circuit. If you want a circuit that's "on" until you say otherwise, run it in through pin 7 and out through pin 8. If you want a circuit that's "off" until you say otherwise, run it in through pin 5 and out through pin 6.

As you said, you'll need to pay attention to the amount of current flowing through the circuit you're controlling. I'd start off using it to control an LED, since that's certainly safe, and you'll get a clear indication of whether or not you're doing it correctly. If you're planning to control something that has moving parts (e.g., motors), you may need to do more than just stay within current limits - there are issues with voltage spikes and reverse voltages that can destroy things.

If any one· else want to chime in on this point they can Please feel free to do so

I think that this relay is safe from those because it's opto-isolated, but you probably want to hear from an expert before you hook it up to a motor or solenoid.

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··Thanks for any··that you may have and all of your time finding them

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Sam

parts-man73

With a Max load current of only 120ma, I don't see any benefit of using this part over a simple transistor circuit. I looked up the part # with a couple of suppliers, and they cost well over $4 each.

How about instead, grab a few ULN2803A. Then you have 8 darlington transistors in one package. each able to handle 500ma of current, with built in protection for using with inductive loads. Best of all, you can find them for less than $1.

And there are lots of examples of how to interface the ULN2803A to a Basic Stamp.

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Brian

uController.com - home of SpinStudio - the modular Development system for the Propeller

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sam_sam_sam

parts-man73

Thank You for your reply

Is there any device that is like ULN2803A

Here is my problem I have these LED Displays that can spell words

The· ·left··· side has one·pin that control· that half of the display· this is· (-)
The·· right· side·has one·pin that control· that half of the display··this is· (-)

There are five other·pins that control the segments of the display these are (+)

I know that I can control part of the display with a ULN2803A
I was going to control the other part of the display with the LBA110's

Unless there is something better to use than this


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··Thanks for any··that you may have and all of your time finding them

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Sam

parts-man73

The ULN2803A is an array of darlington NPN, so this can switch the pins that go toward Negative.

To place a gate between the Display and Positive, you'll need a PNP transisor. 2N3906 is cheap and easy to find and they can handle 200 ma

You mentioned only 2 go to negative, it would be a waste to use a ULN2803A for this, use 2 2N3904 NPN transistors instead. I was basing my recommendation on your statement "I want to hook one of these too a Basic Stamp to control something ", then in the next post someone else mentioned motors. Somehow in my head I connected the 2 and thought that's what you wanted to control.

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Brian

uController.com - home of SpinStudio - the modular Development system for the Propeller

PropNIC - Add ethernet ability to your Propeller! PropJoy - Plug in a joystick and play some games!

SD card Adapter - mass storage for the masses Audio/Video adapter add composite video and sound to your Proto Board

sylvie369

Sorry - I'm the one who mentioned motors, because I assumed that if you were using relays, you were planning to control something like that (though the 120 ma current limit really threw me too).

I'd think that if you're controlling just LEDs you'd use something solid state instead, as parts-man is suggesting. Of course the relays could do it, but you'd need one for each LED you're controlling (at something like $4.72 apiece). Those 2N3904s are something like 8 cents a pop, and should require less space/wiring as well. The ULN2803A will set you back only about $1, and each will control 8 lines.