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Model RR lighting? — Parallax Forums

Model RR lighting?

edited 2008-12-08 02:51 in BASIC Stamp
· Hey gang I'm getting a yen to add some street lights to my model RR layout. It's G gauge and out of doors, so I'm going to need maybe 50 to 100 lights along the track, which runs for maybe 40ft before doubling back via various routes. Figuring one street light every foot that's a heckuva mess! I'm thinking I'll use LEDs·and that I'll 'plant' rows of lamps and have·a seperate power supply for·every·ten or so LEDs, unless there's a better way to do it. Interested in what others have done and what's the recommended way to do this.·
· Have opted to make my own lampposts, etc and to·*not* use store-bought lamps because they cost more than ten bucks apiece (!!).···
·

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Comments

  • Bruce BatesBruce Bates Posts: 3,045
    edited 2008-12-04 04:49
    Ed -

    How were you planning to use the Basic Stamp in this arrangement, or did you intend for this to be posted in the Sandbox Forum?

    Regards,

    Bruce Bates

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    When all else fails, try inserting a new battery.
  • Carl HayesCarl Hayes Posts: 841
    edited 2008-12-04 04:51
    Sounds like a neat setup. I don't think I'd use separate supplies, though -- cheaper and easier to use one supply of sufficient capacity. Besides, you'll probably want, eventually, to turn them on and off by microcomputer control, for which a Stamp would be an admirable choice -- and then you'll really want them on a common supply.. It would probably be easy to use a proximity detector, any of several types, to turn them on in sections when the train approaches. I'm considering the same thing to operate turnouts -- especially to make sure they're thrown the right way so as not to derail when the train approaches from the spread end, so to speak, of a turnout. Mine are HO -- I haven't room for G.

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    · -- Carl, nn5i@arrl.net
  • SRLMSRLM Posts: 5,045
    edited 2008-12-04 06:21
    Ohhh... My old hobby before I realized my dorm room isn't big enough for trains!

    Anyway, in the most recent GR there was an article about doing lights. He used a simple electrical principles without any intelligent autonomous control (I get this from scanning...) Anyway, you could do better. A simple method would be to buy some strings of LED Christmas lights: traditional, but it works. You could hook it up to a relay or the like, and then have it controlled by the uC for some really nice effects (basically, turn on at night and off at midnight) Or, you could build your own system. If you build your own system, you could make even cooler effects like lights that are "burned out": just flicker it on and off randomly, and fool people (more realism). Also, by making it controlled by a microcontroller, you can do specials like synchronize to music ....

    Makes me wish that I still had my garden railroad, along with my new electronics knowledge. Wouldn't have to salivate over the $600 LGB train control system: I can build my own! Well, good luck on your lighting.

    Some other nice lighting effects that you would want to plan for are signal lights (if you are modeling in that era), building lights and accent lights. A really neat effect would be to have the station light flicker on when the train arrives: the station master fell asleep!
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2008-12-04 15:39
    Ed, is this thread BASIC Stamp related?

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    Chris Savage
    Parallax Engineering
  • UnsoundcodeUnsoundcode Posts: 1,532
    edited 2008-12-04 15:48
    I don't know if you guys have read this article in the Hobby section of Parallax customer applications , I have read it several times and have been impressed from day 1 at the way it was done.

    Here is the link http://www.parallax.com/tabid/309/Default.aspx

    Jeff T.
  • LilDiLilDi Posts: 229
    edited 2008-12-04 18:11
    Buy a string of Christmas tree lights and plug the light string into the wall outlet
  • edited 2008-12-07 07:55
    Bruce Bates said...
    How were you planning to use the Basic Stamp in this arrangement, or did you intend for this to be posted in the Sandbox Forum?

    · --Well I was thinking about using PWM to control the LEDs somehow Not really sure if a Stamp *is* relevant but it seemed like a good opportunity to fiddle around with one a bit

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    ························ Hacking the Trailing Edge!
    ················http://www.nmpproducts.com/intro.htm
    ················---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
  • edited 2008-12-07 08:05
    Unsoundcode said...

    Here is the link http://www.parallax.com/tabid/309/Default.aspx

    --Very interesting! Will have to surf around there and see what there is to see!
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    ························ Hacking the Trailing Edge!
    ················http://www.nmpproducts.com/intro.htm
    ················---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
  • edited 2008-12-07 08:07
    Chris Savage (Parallax) said...
    Ed, is this thread BASIC Stamp related?

    ·· --I hope so! If it can't be simplified with a Stamp it's going to be a heckuva wiring nightmare!

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    ························ Hacking the Trailing Edge!
    ················http://www.nmpproducts.com/intro.htm
    ················---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
  • edited 2008-12-07 08:12
    LilDi said...
    Buy a string of Christmas tree lights and plug the light string into the wall outlet
    ·· --Wrong spacing, wrong in other ways too Want to use LEDs as I've got lots and their power requirement falls easily into the range that the BOE can provide, although I'm not sure for how many, what with the cable runs I'd need. I've run ten LEDs on a BOE without any degradation of brightness

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    ························ Hacking the Trailing Edge!
    ················http://www.nmpproducts.com/intro.htm
    ················---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
  • remmi870remmi870 Posts: 79
    edited 2008-12-07 09:23
    you need to be carefull on running the current on the BOE if your running the led directly off of a pin, i suppose you could use 2 in a series but you also need to make shure you dont go over the total curent that the chip can supply, i think depending on the "pack" or grouping of the outputs its like a total of 80ma per 8 outputs, with a max of 25ma per pin, otherwise you may end up overheating the stamp.
  • kelvin jameskelvin james Posts: 531
    edited 2008-12-07 18:07
    You could cascade a bunch of 74hc595 shift registers, each can have its own power supply and will control 8 leds, and only uses 3 stamp pins for the parallel control. You would have the option of controlling each individual led or all at the same time. Wiring will probably be a challenge.

    There is a good example in stampworks using the 595.



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  • CapdiamontCapdiamont Posts: 218
    edited 2008-12-08 02:51
    I'm also in to G scale RR out of doors.

    Some of the problem is you don't tell us what you goal is, you want to light a bunch of LED outdoors, with little wiring as possible. How much control do you want, you want them all on off, in groups, or individually? Being out of doors, the more wiring, the more chance of problems, due to weather messing things up.

    DC/AC methods:
    The easiest method, done in the Garden Railways last month o so, was the bus and distribution method. IE use large 12 gauge wires, so supplied by large power supplies, 12v, 18v, along the track, and where there is a need for light or other accessory attach a smaller gauge feeder. You then use a bulb or a series of bulbs, or LEDs that add up to the supply voltage. This doesn't give you individual control. One switch or relay will control this.

    Then you could have groups of lights, each having it's own wire back to a central point for control. Adds to wiring, and wiring costs. Once switch/relay per group.

    Finally with the most control, individual control, most wiring. one wire/switch, or relay per group.

    Hybrid DC/Wireless control:
    Could either run battery/solar or bus like the 1st DC/AC method for power, control would be from wireless for each module, which could control individual lights, etc for each building, or small "city". Think Zigbee, etc. Think of it like hub and spoke.

    Command control:
    DCC or other signal over power. Allows you to use the rails to control the trains, and run lights, etc. Saves on wiring, like the hybrid method, where modules control groups.



    Now do you want the Basic stamp to be a master with a bunch of slaves, a slave itself, or do the whole show itself?
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