What soldering iron should I buy? How best to solder protoboards?

ElectricAye

Hi all,
I've got my Propeller-based data system working pretty well (thanks to all on the forum who've been so kind to hold my hand these past few months) and I've got my photomultipliers working well with their amps and power controllers. However, in between those two zones of relative competence is a line of comparators that have been, to put it euphemistically, "teaching me a lot about electronic design." More specifically, what NOT to do. Much to my dismay, I can't really get ultra fast comparator chips to remain stable and give good clean signals when plugged into solderless protoboards (duh), so it looks like I'm doomed to link up a big ole mess of comparators using (que the chorus of female screamers) A SOLDERING IRON.

This would be to solder DIP type through-hole chips on what I think will be plated through hole protoboards with a ground plane on one side. Problem is, I don't know anything about soldering irons. The only type I've ever used is the el cheapo kind I've bought at Radio Shack. And I dread the thought of making hundreds of connections using one of those hobbyist torture devices.

Okay, so once I start down the slippery slope of soldering dozens of DIP chips, I'm guessing I'll want to solder the Propeller Chip, too. And maybe someday even go insane and try my hand at SMTs, etc.

So what type of iron should I buy? What sort of solder should I use? If you've got specific brands and model numbers, that would be great. As usual, I'm flying by the seat of my pants here, so the more information, the better. Once I learned I needed a ground plane and super-short leads, I had a nervous breakdown. I'm doing better, though. After weeks of solderphobia therapy, I think I'm ready to face my fears. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

a thousand thanks,
Mark

Sleazy - G

I use the AOYUE 2738·hot air rework station from sparkfun.com, has a temp-controlled iron along side that gets hot enough to do the RoHS leadless solders.· I suggest not trying to solder anything smd by hand , thats what the hot air gun is for.· Solder paste and a good hot air blast, or oven reflow works well.· A temp-controlled model is a must, if you cant afford the 2738.· Remember to save the warranty, it is made in china [noparse]:)[/noparse] .

·

Leon

Metcal makes the best soldering equipment. It's expensive, but second-hand units often come up on Ebay, and don't cost any more than a new Weller or whatever. I use an older STSS power unit with the current MX-500 handpiece and cartridges.

Leon

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Jonathan

For DIP parts, I use a Weller WES51. I have many, many hours on it, always works great for me.

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Jim Fouch

I use Hakko myself, they make a model 936 that is pretty nice. Also, I found them at Harbor Freight last weekend for like $45 which is 1/2 the cost they normally run. It is branded as their brand, but it's the same as the more expensive Hakko one.

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Jim Fouch

FOUCH SOFTWARE

JerryN

Before you buy a new soldering station, be sure new soldering tips are available. Based on my experience, it might be best to buy a lifetime supply of tips when you buy the iron - I use an older Ungar (without variable temperature) that works fine for normal DIP soldering but I can no longer buy tips for it. I am about to embark on my first SMT project and I definitely need a new iron myself but I haven't made a choice yet.

Soldering a few hundred connections is no big deal. For tin/lead solder, a 63/37 alloy is best although 60/40 works OK. Don't let anyone sell you 50/50 for electronics - 50/50 is for plumbing! Use rosin core of course, .031 diameter or less.

I have never used non-lead solder for electronics so I can't make any recommendations there although I find that non-lead solder works great for plumbing. I have been soldering with tin/lead solder for over 60 years and have enough to last me the rest of my life so I don't think I will change now.

Main thing to remember is which end of the iron is hot and which end you hold on to.

Jerry

Erik Friesen

I have a hakko n454 soldering iron and I am happy with it. I also have an aoyue 850a. Once you get familiar with smt components they are much easier to prototype with I think. So spend the money on a good hot air rework + soldering iron with temp control and you will not be sorry.

Conehead

I use Pace soldering stations·with the wave tips (they are the tips with a little cup in them) for soldering everything from DIP packages to SSOP parts.· The wave tip creates a surface tension effect that pulls the solder away from the leads.· I don't know about their rework equipment, but I find the irons are excellent.· Plus, they're made in the US.

Oldbitcollector (Jeff)

Do NOT buy one of these

The poorly constructed, tip rotates uncontrollably.

If you can't spring for something other than these knock offs, then spend $20 at Rat Shack and buy a 25watt until you can.

OBC

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RDL2004

I found a barely used Hakko 937 on eBay a year or so ago for only $75 and it works very well. I use Plato brand tips for it that I get from Mouser.

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- Rick

science_geek

i use the radioshack digital soldering iron, it has a nice small tip that can do smd and regular through hole pretty good, it has variable temp, sucks for desoldering with the tip i use, but for desodering smd i just use one of those red bulbs that you can also get from radioshack to blast a shot of air at an smd when the solder is melted

johnfl68

Howard Electronics has a variety of reasonably priced products for SMT, rework, etc. They often run specials and sometimes have second hand equipment for sale.

www.howardelectronics.com

I am eying the Goot PX-201 70watt variable temp lead free iron for $49.95. I have seen a few good recommendations for it.

John

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ElectricAye

Hey everyone,
thanks for contributing your wisdom and experience on the soldering issue. I'm guessing the devil is in the details, so your specific recommendations have been much appreciated! If only one of you geniuses out there could invent a solderless breadboard that didn't have all sorts of issues at high frequency. Isn't there something you Einsteins could do with nanotech or gelatinous gooey buckyball materials or something? My solderphobia therapy sessions are working, I suppose, but they cost a fortune. The worst part is having to sit in the waiting room with all the other phobia sufferers, many of whom are terrified of people like me.

bless your little hearts,
Mark

Forrest

>>The only type I've ever used is the el cheapo kind I've bought at Radio Shack. And I dread the thought of making hundreds of connections using one of those hobbyist torture devices.

There's nothing wrong with these - I've been using a 15 watt Radio Shack soldering iron (with grounded tip) for 20 years. Radio Shack still sells this model for under $10 and I've must have soldered more than a dozen boards and thousands of solder joints - it still works great. I use rosin solder paste gel and 60/40 Sn/Pb solder, and clean the boards with a toothbrush and Isopropyl Alcohol after soldering, and they're all still working. Don't forget to replace the tip (about $2) when they wear out.

Bill Sturm

I have the Radio Shack 15W electronics iron with grounded tip also. I agree that it is actually quite good, especially for a casual user.

Chris Savage

This thread is about soldering which is off-topic in the Propeller Forum. The thread is being moved to the Sandbox Forum.

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Chris Savage
Parallax Engineering

ElectricAye

To Bill and Forrest,
thanks for your inputs on the el cheapo soldering iron. Maybe I'll stick with it for now and just get a new tip for it. I never thought about getting a new tip.

thanks for the tip!
Mark

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Bean

I use an inexpensive weller WLC100. They are about $40, and you'll need to get the small 0.031" tip for SMD stuff (about $5).

For the price, I don't think you can beat it for a general purpose electronics soldering iron.

I also recommend the tip cleaner that looks like a brass brillo pad instead of a wet sponge. The wet sponge can really drop the temperature of the tip. Plus to you don't need to fuss about looking for water to wet it.

Bean.

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Post Edited (Bean (Hitt Consulting)) : 11/12/2008 5:43:41 PM GMT

Lab Rat

i go with the cheap ones they are easier to replace when broken cheaper too
dont soldier the prop if you dont have to
definately put it in a socket

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Believe in it.

DosManDan

I found this article onine and learned a lot of valuable information about the different types of solder and problems they can cause. It is written by Cooper tools, the maker of Weller soldering irons.

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/electronic_applications/weller/instructions/tip%20care%20and%20use.pdf

Dan

uxorious

Personally, I use a Weller Military kit that was picked up through a surplus auction. I bought it for $50 back in 1994 and I still use it.

On the "commercial side": Ersa I-Con stations. They have come down in price to $295. We use them for tin/lead and lead free. Our handsoldering defects virtually disappeared (even for lead free) once we started using these stations. The precise temperature stability makes this station indispensable. Even beats out my old friend, MetCal.

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~~ dRu ~~

Paul Baker

Xytronic 137ESD, works very well and quite affordable given it's features. Offers a wide range of tips, including the mini-wave tip designed specifically for surface mount work.

Oops I see it's been superceeded by Xytronic 169D, same features and now $30 cheaper (now $99).

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Paul Baker
Propeller Applications Engineer

Parallax, Inc.

Post Edited (Paul Baker (Parallax)) : 11/13/2008 11:34:49 PM GMT

DosManDan

I have no problem soldering with silver bearing solder, but, when I switched to no-lead water soluable flux I started having real problems. I just bought some lead free, no-clean solder and I'm going to give that a try this weekend.

I actually started using the liquid rosin flux to help with the water soluable type flux type solder. It helped alot, but I'm not happy with the way things look, much less having to clean everything up.

Anyone have suggestions on what I could use? I thought the article I posted from Cooper tools gave a good description of the problems associated with the differnt types of solder.

Open to new ideas,
Dan

sam_sam_sam

DosManDan

lead free, no-clean solder

Is good solder but you have to use a little more heat than you would use with 60/40· rosin solder
also when soldering non copper wire it harder to solder




Paul Baker

I second what you say about the Xytronic 137ESD I have two of them and they work real good

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··Thanks for any··that you may have and all of your time finding them

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Sam

ElectricAye

Hi,
I just wanted to thank all who have contributed answers to my question and to encourage others to continue putting in their opinions and suggestions. I am still all ears on this issue.

thanks in continuum,
Mark

ElectricAye

For the record, I found out the following above comments really helped me A LOT:

Using an el cheapo Radio Shack soldering iron is possible, but the suggestion to use a 15 watt (instead of the 25 watt) iron made a HUGE difference for soldering ICs!

Using a pot scrubber made of copper (the kind you can get in the grocery store for a dollar) works MUCH better than a damp sponge for cleaning off the soldering tip. WOW!

Getting a new soldering tip once the old one looks oxidized also made a world of difference.

I know these don't sound terribly profound, but thanks to these types of "small" concepts, I was able to get my high speed circuits working on a ground plane protoboard, so my ulcers can now begin to heal.

You people are great! Thanks for your time!
Mark

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It might be the Information Age but the Eon of Ignorance has yet to end.