how to quit noisey motors

Badger

Hello


I have a tamiya dual gear box from pololu the controller that comes with it. (39.99 by the way for both) to put a .1uf cap on the motors. I called tech support and they say to put one on the + to case one on - to case and one from + to - on each motor to quit them down. I was wondering is there any other way to do this. is there any other device i can connect to each motor to accomplish the same thing.

remember i am a noobie at this. just starting into electronics so just wondering .. and due to the fact i only have 3 104 ceramic caps at the moment LOL

Badger

Mike Green

What they suggested is an excellent starting point. When you have a lot of electrical noise, you really do want to put bypass capacitors as physically close to the noise source as possible. If you can't mount them on the motor as suggested, then mount them as close to it as you can. There are other noise suppression parts (larger capacitors and inductors) that are also useful, but you need to suppress the high frequency noise at the source with the capacitors. If you only have 3 capacitors now, order some more and put one across each motor + to -.

Badger

Mike

i just wont to make sure i got this in my head they said to solder one + to motor case - to motor case and then another from + to - so that makes three for each motor. so doing such will not harm the motor or controller

sorry to repeat my self i just wanted to make sure i am understanding what i am trying to say and what the response up. I am on a very high dose of pain meds so i am double checking ok

Badger the High

i can take some 104's off an old board i have. that is what they suggested

Timmoore

Yes, you want a cap from the motor case to each motor terminals (You will need a fairly powerful soldering iron to solder to the motor case). Other things to do are to twist the motor wires together from the motor to the board. Put a ferrite bead on each motor wire next to the motor.
Try and keep the motor wires as far apart from other electronics as possible especially if there is any radios e.g. RC controllers.
I have found the tamiya motors and similar motors (the RM2/3 that can be used to replace the tamiya motors) are very noisy, and you have to take extra steps with those motors that I didn't need on similar size motors.

PS, when I have used the tamiya gearboxes before, I tend to switch the motors to the RM3, then I can use a cheaper motor controller. The reduced cost of the cheaper motor controllers outways the cost of replacing the motors.

Paul K.

They do the same thing in RC cars. Some of them come with them already solder on. You might need to file the case just a little to make the solder stick.
Check out towerhobbies.com brushed motors youll find some pics
Paulk

Dennis Ferron

In regards to getting the solder to stick, it's hard to heat the motor case hot enough to melt solder, and probably not good for the motor. Although you're supposed to "heat the work, not the solder", in a pinch you can tin both work surfaces separately and then reflow the solder. I find this helps: place the solder (cold) across the motor case, and press the iron on top & let the solder melt into a puddle. Hold the iron in the puddle until the edges of the puddle run smoothly down to the motor (i.e. if it looks like you could stick a knife under the solder blob and pry it off, you're doing it wrong: there should be no lip to stick the knife under). Tin the capacitor lead liberally. Place the tinned lead (cold) onto the (cold) solder puddle on the motor, and reflow the puddle to accept the lead.

erco

This is one of the few jobs for your big Weller soldering gun, 140 watts minimum. Higher is better. You have to have intense momentary heat on the case or the plastic end bell that holds the brushes will melt. Before soldering, use sandpaper or a file to rough up the area on the case and tin it quickly before you try to attach the cap leads quickly.

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·"If you build it, they will come."

Mike Green

Practice on some scraps. Use a piece of plated steel roughly the size of the motor case. A piece of a "tin can" would probably work fine.

PJAllen

Consider soldering ("ganging") these cap leads for the motor case to a·solder lug·and then fastening the lug·to the motor case or frame.